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Swing weight scale features and differences


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Generally I have found that as you pay more you get a more solid engineering device.

I have a golfworks scale that is adjustable if required. Able to zero for balance if accidentally knocked or damaged. (Though unlikely in most cases). It is a good scale

I had a Kenneth Smith scale with a 12 inch fulcrum and this was a beautiful piece of engineering. Unfortunately it required a calculation to convert to 14 inch scale (standard today). I sold it when I got the Golfworks scale. I wish I had kept it just as a piece of engineering to have on display in the garage. Over 50 years old and still looked like new.

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A swing weight scale is really a pretty simple thing at its core. Sure price will always play some part in the overall quality of the design and the accuracy of the tool but it really doesn't take a lot of money to have an accurate scale with very good tolerances. A lot of the money for the more expensive units goes toward conveniences. Each builder has to decide what's worth it for them or not. e.g.

Some scales are just easier to read and adjust than others

Has a leveling bubble on the base or maybe even self leveling at the very high end to make sure it's mounted on a level surface

Different indicators to tell you when the fulcrum is level or the weight is in the right spot (e.g. maybe a second) leveling bubble and how easy it is to read.

Some added dampening to the fulcrum so it takes less time to level out and are faster to get the reading

Maybe an added mechanism to adjust the calibration of the scale,

digital vs manual,

Being able to weight static weight as well as swing weight and maybe even having a tray available to get static weight of other things besides the club.

It might have something to compensate for the grip cap or not.

maybe it has a special holder to weight the grip with the club before the grip is installed,

and probably much more...

 

 

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im a fan of Mitchell Tour gauge SW scale, its idiot proof in use, you must be very stupid to fail since it can do the job even if the table is not in level. (calibrating by easy adjustments before you start)

If price is not of highly importance, get one.https://www.mitchellgolf.com/shop/repair-tools/swing-weight-scale/tourgauge-swing-weight-scale-tgsws/

 

But, no matter SW scale, learn its limitations, its not a oracle and has no clue about what we put onto it, so dont fool yourself and think the scale has the right answer to all balance questions, it dont, but thats a debate of its own.

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Thanks guys. Yeah its just hard to know what ‘conveniences’ I’ll appreciate without having experienced them. Considering I don’t know how much club building I’ll do after this set I was looking at the $90 V-line scale from Golfworks, but the leveling feet and level on the beam sound pretty nice so maybe I’ll go with the Auditor series (Pro Shop or Clubmaker.)

 

Roger Dunn has one that looks like their premium scale. The RD scale has a beam that balances on a metal blade resting in a triangular groove, and I really dislike it. Maybe it’s just old and dirty but the repeatability has been pretty bad.

 

All that said, shipping to Hawaii might be pretty prohibitive. Golfmechanix wants $65 to ship a $65 scale andI have to wait for a quote from GW.

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OP, I just picked up the Golfworks Economy scale this week, $70 shipped. Best thing ever. And I say that, knowing that this is not the best scale per se. But just having a scale at home now, has been a game-changer.

I had it up and running in about 2 minutes. Was able to check it against some clubs I just had built at Club Champion to specific swing weights, and not only was it very accurate with what the SW was supposed to be, it also showed me a few instances where the SW of certain clubs was not what it was supposed to be... And now, when I demo different shafts in driver heads for example, I know what SW I am dealing with, and can adjust with different weights and what-not to demo appropriately.

In any case, definitely pick one up, whatever it is. Don’t sleep on the Economy scale if you just want something basic, but there are plenty of other options in different price ranges and features.

Callaway B21 9* Driver, Aldila Rogue White MSI 130 60 S
Callaway Big Bertha Epic 5 and Epic Flash 7 Woods, Accra Fx 2.0 200F M3
Callaway Big Bertha ‘19 4 Hybrid, KBS Tour Hybrid Prototype 65 R
Wilson Staff C300 Forged Irons 5-GW, KBS Tour 105 S
PXG 0311 SW (54*/14) and LW (58*/12), TT Elevate Tour S
Scotty Cameron 009-M Putter
 

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I just have an inexpensive one that was the 'economy' version from Golfsmith before they went out of business. Functionally probably similar to the v-line - but markings aren't really in a great place so in that respect not quite as good as the v-line. It does a fine job but if I were to do it again, I'd probably go with the Auditor Pro or Auditor Clubmaker. It would be nice to have the leveling feet and dampening in the fulcrum pivot. Probably the pro to help save some money for a better loft lie measuring guage.

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If you’re not regularly building clubs what is an expensive one going to show you that a cheaper one isn’t?

I bought one from GolfWorks a few years ago. https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-v-line-swingweight-scale/p/nesc/

Set it on something flat, throw a club on it, slide the weight, get it balanced and you now know the swingweight — it’s pretty simple.

And if it’s off by 1/2 a SW point...big deal (though when I had a driver built for me it measured exactly what it was supposed to on the builder’s scale and the same on mine at home.

If you’re just doing it for your own tinkering, save yourself some $$ and get the one I linked to above.

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I'm a Kenneth Smith guy. They have two different models with a 14" fulcrum and both are awesome. They use a bronze pivot knife edge for excellent durability and there isn't a spec of plastic anywhere on them.

The model to avoid is the "original" scale, that's the one that requires the conversion chart.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 5 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Ping G410 irons w/Recoil 95S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Anser/Arna putter - the "real deal!"

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So does that Economy scale read off the table? In other words, does balanced mean both sides are equal distance from bench top? I want to try progressive swing weighting and feel like that scale could be a little more tedious, and more susceptible to whatever condition the bench top is in, compared to pretty much every other scale. If that’s the case I think I will go for either the V-line or Auditor Pro depending on shipping cost.

I’ll keep an eye out for Ken Smith scales too - unfortunately all the affordable ones on eBay right now are “Official” and not Lorythmic.

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+1 for the Golfworks V-Line. It works and is a cheaper option. Just need to ensure what you plan to put it on is 100% level. If not, go with the Golfworks Auditor Pro... https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-pro-shop-swing-weight-scale/p/gm1009/

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I have the Kenneth Smith 14" model - Prorythmic and its great. Built to last and accurate. Mine is over 30 years old. I started out with a cheap scale from Golfworks and it was junk. Very flimsy and readings were all over the place. I threw it away after one year and got the KS. Never regretted it. Its a shame they went out of business.

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Thanks guys. I went with the Auditor ‘Pro Shop’ from Golfworks. I realized I will want to use the scale on multiple surfaces around the house so the built-in levels became a priority. Also shipping for the V-line was $30, and shipping for my complete order of supplies w/ Pro Shop was $20 for 2-day air (to Hawaii.) I don’t think I need to worry about SW without installed grip, but it seems like there should be a way to modify the setup if I ever need to.

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@AlohaJoe said I don’t think I need to worry about SW without installed grip, but it seems like there should be a way to modify the setup if I ever need to.

Actually, many believe measuring w/o the grips is the best way to go since variations in the grip itself (weight, grip cap size and form) can throw off the readings in a way that wasn't intended. But fortunately you don't need any special features on the scale to do it right. Just put the club on the scale w/o a grip and shoot for a value that's 9 pts above the desired sw value.

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I like nice stuff, particularly nice tools. I used to have a shop in Ohio full of old American made shop tools. It was heaven to me. If I was dedicating a bench to club building I’m sure I’d go for a nice, all-metal scale and would be happy I paid the premium every time I used it. If that sounds like you, why not go for it? Hawaii is a different ballgame with regards to real estate/stability (and I didn’t move here to spend all my time inside!) so that changed my goal to finding a scale that gets the job done and is at least somewhat enjoyable to use, hence the basic Auditor. If that sounds more like what you’d be happy with, I can let you know how it goes in a few days.

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Thanks Stuart. Interesting. Is the 9pts because of some average or standard grip weight? Or is it from the change in length due to no grip cap? Or both? I was thinking I could just make a hardened balsa plug (maybe 1-2 grams?) to use as a spacer if the shaft has no grip, and just tape or rubber-band the grip above the shaft. But really I hadn’t thought much beyond adjusting the clubs I have that are already built. Maybe assembling a new club is a different approach.

 

 

2 years ago I started playing golf again and was shooting ~110. Now even on my worst days I break 90 and I’ve got my sights on finally breaking 80. Having clubs that at least somewhat fit has been a total game changer and now I’m stoked to dial in my long irons and especially my wedges.

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Dry fitting to a value 9 SWP above target without grips is the offset factor for a standard OEM 50 gram grip like Golfpride Tour velvet.

If we have done a club fitting, grips is always included, so to make it "right" we should rip of that grip and measure the club without to get THIS builds exact offset factor.

Many uses "Split grip" we can take on and off each club before we put it on the SW scale, but that method has the potential to fool us on play length if the split grip aint correct and fully seated on each club, so we risk making some clubs longer than what they are = misreading on the SW Scale. We count 1/8 as 0.75 SWP, so if we want tight tolerances 1 mm off with the split grip is 0.25 SWP

A tip at last, when we build a set of Irons or wedges, the very first task of all is Loft and Lie. Later adjustments will mess with your SW values, and here we can use the factor 4* on lie = 1 SWP so if some heads is off with 2* and thats not uncommon, we move SW by 0.5* with later adjustments so always start with loft and lie.

That means is we forget that or dont know that, and use the split grip method, we should not be surprised if the play ready clubs vary with plus minus 1 SWP from our target, but that can be avoided if we do it "right" from the start.

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I was all excited to do a nice little review on this Auditor Pro Shop scale, but I’m pretty disappointed with it and it’s (hopefully) going back. The level is so far out it’s literally unusable - It always says the shaft side needs to be ~1/4 inch (A LOT!) higher, despite turning the scale around on the bench. That’s the only thing that ‘doesn’t work’ - well, it’s also off by 4 grams and 0.75 SWP - but I guess now I have a list of features I would look for in a scale:

What I don’t like about the Auditor Pro:

The level is directly under the beam so you can’t get a straight-on look at it (parallax), and therefore can’t be very precise with leveling.

There’s no damping. Even with the windows closed it never stops moving.

It would be nice if you could adjust the feet without picking up the scale, but you can’t reach the screws without doing so. Idk if any scale has this, but it would be better to have 3 feet instead of 4, so it never wobbles and you have front/back and left/right adjustment like a tripod.

The way the scale is written, it’s upside down if the club head is to your right.

It seems like there’s excessive slop in the pivot, though with the club on it there is less. As it turns out, the pivot edge rests and moves against plastic.

 

What’s nice about the scale:

It seems pretty compact

The finish is nice despite the plastic base. The beam and sliding weight seem to be metal.

There’s very little friction.

IDK what materials the pivot is made from, but it appears to be the blade type which I didn’t realize. It’s hidden so it’s tough to tell without taking the scale apart.

 

Edit: The plastic base of the scale is badly warped. There’s a flat metal bar screwed to it for stiffness, which is also warped. That likely explains the level being out.

The pivot is a steel pin with a triangle machined in the ends. It literally is resting and pivoting on plastic. I’ve had the scale for 10 minutes and there’s already plastic shavings inside.

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Since this tread is about SW scales in general, i copy a post from another tread i think is relevant, and thats GRIP influence on SW and how to deal with it.

The issue is really the understanding of the SW scale, it does not give the right picture when we mess with grip weight, and if we think it does, the risk is large that we ends up with a TOTAL weight over and beyond the players tolerance, and added head weight as compensation WILL ADD MOI, so both Total and MOI becomes to high.

Like mentioned, when we use MOI and point of rotation is set to the butt end, a higher grip weight adds a few MOI points and follow total weight, but the actual point of rotation of the club is about 4 inch down from the butt, and thats where most grips has its balance point, so we should see it as a contribution to total weight to start with. Deeper down we can look at MBI or MOI Balance Index, then we can see why feel of balance changed and how it changed, the SW scale cant do that right.

There is many ways to Rome, so when i look at this, i use Head weight / Total weight = Head weight % of total. ive done this for years before i knew about MBI who does the same, only reversed where its shaft and grip side / total weight, but they both give the same info, only different number values.

EXAMPLES. - a #6 iron with "standard specs" and DG shafts.

Grip weight - 50 grams

Grip tape - 2 grams

Net cut shaft weight - 121 grams

SUM GRIP AND SHAFT = 173 grams

Head weight - 261

Ferrule and epoxy - 2 grams

SUM HEAD WEIGHT = 263 Grams

 

TOTAL WGT = 436 grams

Head weight 263 / Total weight 436 = 60.33%

Shaft and grip 173 / Total weight 436 = 39.67%

That means it does not matter what direction we do the numbers, only the return values "looks different" but represent the same

 

Now we ADD grip weight from the standard 50 gram grip to a MID size of 60 grams

Sum shaft and grip is now 183 grams, and Total goes up the same 10 grams to 446 grams and return this MBI values

Head weight 263 / Total 446 = 58.96%

Shaft and grip 183 / Total 446 = 41.04%

MBI changed with 1.37%, some is able to feel it, others is not, but since TOTAL is more important than both SW, MOI or MBI, we risk to end over and beyond the players tolerance for TOTAL weight if we try to please the SW scale or get MBI values correct on the paper, and if we compensate with head weight, we trow off MOI and make it higher than needed.

If we now follow the SW scale and saw that those 10 grams added, caused a drop of 2 SWP, we would add 2.12 grams x 2 = 4.14 grams head weight

New head weight is now 267 grams / new total wgt 450 grams = 59.33%, but we came from a MBI of 60.33% so we only improved MBI by about 0.33 and messed up both MOI and Total weight, so the SW scale CAN NOT help us to reset the feel of balance we had, thats the problem here.

This "new" club will have a total wgt 14 grams higher than we started from and a MOI value thats up with close to 40 MOI points. When we MOI match and has found the right MOI value we try to build with a tolerance of plus minus 5, so 40 MOI points is simply "way off" our target, and head weight is responsible for about 35 of those 40 MOI points

The SW system DO NOT give us a SET of clubs with the same MBI values using a flat SW value, but MBI explain why some players feel the difference, (in this case 1.37%) when we mess with grip weight, so if we want it all to be "right" or that all clubs should feel the same, we can only do that by using MOI, and for those thats very sensitive, use tolerances in grip weight to even out total weight progression from club to club or to fine tune the MBI numbers, since MOI itself dont move much if grip weight vary a little. (tolerances for grip weight is often plus minus 3.5 grams from official wgt and here we can take advantage of that)

This debate will never end, i know that, but this is the best i can do to explain why we cant let the SW scale be in charge here, its not as important as Total wgt or actual MOI, or what i always just called "club balance" who turns out to be MBI. The SW scale mislead us if we dont know this, thats why we should dry fit without grip, AND during fitting, ALWAYS use the wanted grip from the start, since we mess it all up if we use standard during fitting, end just add MID or Jumbo to delivery.

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I had the Auditor Pro Shop for a couple days while working through the return process. It’s actually a pretty nice scale to use and if it didn’t have the warping/level issues I might have kept and been OK with it. I got the Golf Works V-line scale in its replacement. It’s certainly way more sturdy and the first thought is “I really got my money’s worth.” It’s a little more bulky and not as ‘smooth’ with the weight on top, not secured, and a little space between the weight block arrow and the printed scale. But it works and seems like it will last forever. I have a lot more confidence in it’s readings. Of course today I went to Roger Dunn and the tech had his scale out on the floor. It was the Maltby scale (Golf Works Premium SWRM) and it was super nice! The damping is amazing, the level and feet were nicer than the auditor, all metal, Smooth sliding weight, super sturdy, just a nice scale in every way. I think if one were to be doing a lot of work on the scale the SWRM is totally worth the extra money: the damping, easier adjustment and seemingly more precise readings make it a seem like its in a class above.

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