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Taper shafts not fitting into taper hosels...


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I'm not sure why, but so many issues for me in my club this off season! This is the latest.

Ordered some new shafts off of Global Rakuten a week ago. These are Shimada K's Tour, and are authentic so far as I can tell. Proper stepping, ultra consistent weighting and the right stickers/finish.

In any event, the shafts themselves start at .355 for the first 1/4" then do to .365 1 cm up the shaft and finally .373 about 1 inch up. This is after having prepped the tips, the ones with full chrome in tact are even worse.

So odd. These are supposed to be taper tipped shafts.

Any other taper shaft I try (Modus 125 and DG Tour Issue) seat down to the bottom, even demonstrating a 'little' play in the hosel.

I'm not to keen on reaming the hosels, and certainly not over prepping the tip diameter to make them work.

Any suggestions? I think I'm justified in asking for my money back, but have not received a response to the questions yet...just a suggestion from the Vendor that I alter the tips and/or hosels.

Thx!

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Sounds like you might need a tapered reamer (although the extra tip prep might still work).https://www.golfworks.com/spiral-fluted-reamers/p/gw0115/

.368 is too narrow for the top of the hosel bore, so yes, at least part of the problem is the hosel. And sorry, don't really want to sound harsh but the reality is that being able to deal with variati

@IH823PUTT said "In any event, the shafts themselves start at .355 for the first 1/4" then do to .365 1 cm up the shaft and finally .373 about 1 inch up. This is after having prepped the tips, the ones with full chrome in tact are even worse."

That's actually very close to a proper taper. A standard .355 taper tip shaft goes from 0.355 to 0.370 over just the first 1/2" of the tip. The rest of the inserted part of the shaft is supposed to be .370. So the only problem is that your shafts expand out to 0.373 instead of 0.370. And 0.003" is very reasonable considering normal manufacturing tolerances. Also 0.003" more of tip trim wont hurt the shaft even a little bit IF that's all you actually need. The hosel bore could be a bit on the narrow side and be on the 'tight' end of the bore tolerances (assuming it doesn't just needs a better cleaning out if this isn't the first shaft install). What heads are you trying to install them into?
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I was going to say the same thing as @Stuart_G but then I saw that other shafts fit without issue.
I have in the past had a few shafts that were over-chromed for lack of a better term that needed some extra prep to get in so you may just be in that boat.

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Unfortunately, that doesn't really mean anything other than probably that the Nippon could have been at the other end of the manufacturing tolerance variations.

Normally I'd expect the hosel bore to be big enough to handle a wider range of manufacturer variations in actual tip sizes but that doesn't seem to be the case here, at least that would be my first impression. The first things I'd try was either a little extra tip prep (by hand, not a belt sander) - or use a .355 tp reamer to see if that widens up the bore enough.

 

 

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Okay, thanks guys! I'll see how we make out with a little more diligent cleaning and prepping, but these things seem out by closer to .20

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Taylormade M5* - Kuro Kage XD 70TX
Taylormade M6 DF - Diamana ZF 70TX
Fourteen Proto 2i - TBD
Fourteen FH1000 Ltd. - Nippon Modus 125, X
Vokey SM7 52.08F/56.10S/60.08M - DG AMT T.I., S400
Toulon Las Vegas H7 - Stability 

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What are you putting these into? For example, Miura comes with a .350 bore meant to be reamed to the appropriate hosel size, so it's possible someone slightly reamed them for a shaft that was under tolerance, and yours just happen to be over tolerance like Stewart G mentioned.

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Hosel bore at the top of each is anywhere from .368 to .368

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Taylormade M5* - Kuro Kage XD 70TX
Taylormade M6 DF - Diamana ZF 70TX
Fourteen Proto 2i - TBD
Fourteen FH1000 Ltd. - Nippon Modus 125, X
Vokey SM7 52.08F/56.10S/60.08M - DG AMT T.I., S400
Toulon Las Vegas H7 - Stability 

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I would definitely fine finish the hosel with the .355 tapered reamer. That way you know it is exactly what it should be.

BT

 

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It is not the hosel...verified with calipers. The top of the hosel is .368, and the shafts when prepped are .373 to as high as .377 one inch up the tip

Asked for a refund, and the Seller basically told me to learn to build clubs lol So now I'm into a dispute

Be leery on Banzai Golf on Global Rakuten, despite their reputation

[u]WITB:[/u]
Taylormade M5* - Kuro Kage XD 70TX
Taylormade M6 DF - Diamana ZF 70TX
Fourteen Proto 2i - TBD
Fourteen FH1000 Ltd. - Nippon Modus 125, X
Vokey SM7 52.08F/56.10S/60.08M - DG AMT T.I., S400
Toulon Las Vegas H7 - Stability 

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/962216-my-witb-the-revolving-door/"]WITB Link[/url]

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I had the same issue with Yururi wedges and Modus 125 Wedge shafts.

I bought a reamer, but found the head was already the correct size. I just needed to sand the shaft a little more until it fit. I had two shafts, and one was really tight, and one was a perfect fit.

So the issue is likely just manufacturing tolerances.

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.368 is too narrow for the top of the hosel bore, so yes, at least part of the problem is the hosel.

And sorry, don't really want to sound harsh but the reality is that being able to deal with variations that occur during the manufacturing process for the individual parts is a normal (and expected) part of club building.

The only way to really find out whether they are inside or outside the companies accepted tolerance range is to contact Shimada directly. If you think you're due replacements, that's likely your best recourse anyways. I could be wrong but I certainly don't know any shaft retailer that would do that over just a few thousandths of an inch.

 

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