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How far am I off? Just bought a new driver online.


Bigjohn141

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Hey guys, just looking for some advise. With pretty much all the golf stores shut down, the chance to get fitted for a driver is non-existing. I wanted to take advantage of the Callaway preowned 40% off sale on Epic Flash drivers so I threw a semi educated guess out there. Background: I am 40, 6’5” with a stocky build, handicap is around 30 when I actually have time to play consistently, driver swing speed is right about 90 with a smooth tempo but working on getting it up to around 95 controllably. I have been gaming a Taylormade R1 set about 11.5 degrees, draw bias, set slightly closed at address, with a stock length stiff shaft since it was released back in the day. I do have a tendency to miss right and most drives have a lowish launch. Sorry for the long details. So with that said, I decided to get a 10.5 epic flash with a project x even flow green 55 5.5 shaft and cut 1 inch to 44.5 inches but asked to reweight back to D3. I came to this conclusion after reading everything I could find on shaft fitting. My understanding on the subject is that my current shaft is probably a little too stiff for my swing speed so I went with a little more flex even though I am cutting it. The evenflow green kick should help me get the ball up a little more and the shorter length will hopefully help with control to find the middle of the face more. I have plans to get fitted when everything returns to normal-ish but just want to get out to practice and have fun. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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I would say as important as it is to be fitted with the right clubs, also with you being a 30 handicap, I would suggest spending some money on lessons if you are not. Also you are cutting the ball because you have an outside to in swing which is robbing you of yardage. A 92-95 mile-per-hour swing speed, similar to what I have, we'll get you approx 240 yards plus or minus if you can't learn to hit it straight. I think I could learn to hit any driver made right now regardless of shaft or clubhead, period. Yes it is great to be fitted with a personal set of clubs, but I think it is more important to learn to swing whatever club properly.

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Thanks for the reply. I have taken a number of lessons in the past and plan on taking a few more to get me back up to speed. I was playing quite regularly until I took a new job, got married, and had a child. I pretty much haven’t played for the last 5 years except for the occasional round here and there. I would say my swing has probably gotten a little out of shape and needs some tuning. I actually have plans to sneak out to the course and see if the pro has time for a quick lesson.

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I wouldn't cut it down until you hit it

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 5w 16.9* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Blueboard HY 80x

Ping Blueprint S 5 - PW Steelfiber 95 & 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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I see where you are coming from on the suggestion. I can buy another stock shaft for a low price if I need too. I figure since I might have to change up the whole shaft when I actually get fitted, I might as well try an inch shorter to see if I like it with a few rounds on it rather than making an on the spot decision in the store.

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just be open that long may be better, it is for some folks and you're quite tall

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 5w 16.9* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Blueboard HY 80x

Ping Blueprint S 5 - PW Steelfiber 95 & 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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I totally am. I also understand that the dispersion might be off as well due to the setup not being correct. The main thing I am experimenting with on the shorter shaft is finding the center of the club. If I find center more with it, then I will have a basis going into the fitting. If I still have the same amount of miss hits, then I will know that I shouldn’t worry about it so much.

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John

Post your swing

Some of the guru's here will tell you what to work on

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 5w 16.9* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Blueboard HY 80x

Ping Blueprint S 5 - PW Steelfiber 95 & 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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First that driver is plenty forgiving and will serve you well. Second as others have commented, stock shafts are a dime a dozen so if that really 'feels' off, you can score plenty with cally tips on the cheap (example I got a Fuji Green from CPO a few years back to try against the stock Aldila with my Rogue driver).

 

I would not worry too much about flex, you are in the ball park. What you may find as you progress with your swing being a bigger fella, you may prefer heavier shafts and more of an overall club weight. But nothing to overthink right now...the big cost of the driver is the head (yes you can spend more on an upcharge shaft, but that is waaaaaay down the road and only if you want to: plenty of stock shafts perform just fine)

 

Finally: good call on cutting it down. I have re-discovered the joy of more traditional lengths (still they are 1" longer then when I grew up in the 80s') longer clubs as I have trimmed a few down myself.

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You are the first 30 handicap I’ve ever seen that knows the concept of swingweight.

Former professional golfer. Current amateur human being.

Driver: PXG 0811X Gen 4 7.5 HZRDUS Smoke iM10 Green 60 TX 45.9" D3

Driver 2: Taylormade Burner Mini 11.5 HZRDUS Smoke Green 70 X D5

Fairway: PXG 0311XF Gen 5 4 Wood; Smoke iM10 Green 70 TX D6

Irons: PXG 0317X; PXG 0311T Gen 5; 5-GW DG 105 X D7

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM9 56 S Grind;  Cleveland RTX Full Face 64 DG 120 X E0

Putter: PXG Battle Ready Raptor 38” Wristlock Grip

 

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That was really my plan, just get the club and use it. Seems that things have came a long way since my last driver and I actually hit a Mavrik pretty decently a while back at Dick’s. Didn’t really want to drop $500+ on a new driver and saw the “like new” Epic Flash on sale for just under $250 with the customizations so I jumped on it. I can pay for a fitting and a new shaft if I need one and still be under the cost of one off the shelf.

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I usually go a little over board on researching things when I decide to buy new stuff. I didn’t want to get the club super light since I was already using a lighter shaft and cutting it. I understand the concept of using more weight to get better energy transfer and to add stability. I didn’t want to get it down to a D0 and have less weight to transfer energy into the ball. Plus I am having them either add wraps or change grips to get to a mid size which will totally throw the balance off. Depending on if/how they re-weight the club, I might get a heavier track weight to bring it back up and add to the MOI.

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Here is the only swing I have on my phone at the moment. It’s about 4 years ago and a year or two out of practice at least. It’s a safe “keep it straight” swing and I know I am losing a lot of power with the under rotation on the backswing. I have actually been working on getting my rotation where it needs to be here recently.l while trying to maintain control.

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To all the people who recommend go get fitted, I say bs. Especially a 30 handicapper. Single digits, yes, it might help you but has to be a good fitter. There are very, very few good fitters. Get some lessons first, then learn about gear which it looks like your doing. Then learn about fitting and fit yourself. Equipment is really a small part of getting from 30 to say 15 handicap. And do not buy new, buy 1 to 2 years old, on eBay or off here. 50% of the cost at 95% of the performance. Or buy that shiny new $550 driver every year to be cool, it ain’t going to help your game that much.

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Mizuno ST-Max 10.5 Smoke RDX 50 5.5, AI Smoke 10.5 with HZRDOUS RDX RED 50 5.5

Mizuno ST-MaX 5 stock Kail'l R

Mizuno ST-Max 7 stock Kail'l R

AI Smoke HL 7-AW Nippon Neo 85

AI Smoke 7/8 Hybrid HZRDOUS Siver 65 Gen 4 5.5

Cleveland Full Face 52

Cleveland Full Face 56

Odyssey Jailbird 380

Titelist prov1x/Callaway Chrome Soft

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Nobody needs a 45.5 or over inch driver in my opinion especially if you have control issues. That being said, I would start at close to full length and just grip down different amounts to figure out the correct length. Remembering that the grip is going to taper in and get smaller. Then you can cut it once you know the correct length. Always easier to take away shaft length than add it back.

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Being a high handicap from lack of skills to get it all together at the same time, I just wanted to speak to this for a second. Since I am 6’5” tall, a standard length set of clubs doesn’t usually work out too well for me. If I remember correctly, I’m +1/2” and 2 degrees up lie on irons which does effect ball flight. I would say 100% to get lessons and get a good swing before getting fit for clubs. Luckily I did it the right way and had a decent swing when I went in. I do know that my swing changed dramatically just after a few lessons so if I had been fit before, my numbers would’ve been totally off. Lessons are hands down the best money I have spent on golf. Around here, a lesson is cheaper than a dozen top end balls and will get almost instant positive results.

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I know I have to fix a few things on my swing so I threw this together today. I have an old Swingbyte 2 that I haven’t used in a while so I decided to dig it out to see if it still works. Wish they would bring the iOS app back. A couple of 1/2” stall mats from Tractor Supply to have a softer surface and level out the Wal-Mart driving mat, along with a Wal-Mart practice net. It’s not the most high tech solution but I’m getting good feedback.

8OMNWZYJY0OV.jpeg

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Well the driver showed up today and looks really good. Couple of small scratches but nothing to worry about. They did cut the shaft down an 1” but didn’t re-weight it and it has a standard Callaway grip that is lined up a few degrees open. Currently it is sitting at around C 7 on swing weight and it feels super light. Sitting at the desk for about an hour, I figured up that I need to add a 15.5 gram weight in addition to the stock 16 gram to make the swing weight D 3.3 when I switch the grip out to a mid size golf pride MCC +4 like my other clubs. Oddly enough, with the added weight is going to make it very similar to my current R1. The EF will end up being overall approximately 343 grams, with the head weight of 210 grams, and a D 3.3 swing weight as mentioned. The R1 is 340 grams over all, with a 209 gram head, and a swing weight of D 3.9 so it shouldn’t be that big of a change in feel.

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Get some lead tape and add weight slowly to see how the feel changes. Typically STD weight lead tape is 1 gm per inch. High Density is about twice that. Apply the strip on top of each other and once you have the club where it feels right, remove all the tape and weigh it. Then you'll know how much weight you REALLY need.

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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