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Ferrule & hosel gap


wely324
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It's not going to make the head fall off if that is your concern. May have slid up during assembly if the ferrule was loose or if you preset the ferrule and then added tip weights etc before epoxy. Can also happen when the shaft does not sit in the hosel completely parallel. That can be caused by a larger space gap between the two, not having the hosel bottom perfectly even, or not having the shaft cut perfectly level.

The picture makes it look like you just have the gap on the back side of the head, which is common when the space gap is a bit large and you let the club dry by resting it against a wall in playing position so that the shaft moves and drys in a more upright lie position.

If it really bothers you, you can fill the gap with a little black epoxy and then turn the ferrule down to smooth everything out.

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I wouldn't worry about it.

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How did you set the ferrules? Did you use a ferrule setting tool or one iron head for all the shafts? Or did you set each ferrule on each shaft using the head going on that shaft?

Like mentioned, it's not a big deal. Try running the ferrule under hot water for a minute to soften it up, then see if you can push it down flush against the hosel.

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If you are one to bang the head and shaft down VERY hard to set the ferrule depth, you can easily compress the end of the shaft a little deeper into the recess in the hosel (most have a slight concavity from drilling) and unless you check diligently, you might miss that little gap until you are done. You might be able to press it back down and make it flush, but now the ferrule is likely loose and eventually you will see it again unless you use some epoxy or Krazy-Glue to hold it in place.

If you used collared ferrules, pushing them down is almost impossible since the ferrule is bonded to the hosel wall inside. Either leave it as it is or pull the clubs apart and do them over again. That is time consuming and costs you a ferrule per club.

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I'd redo them. A poor ferrule job is a sign of a poorly executed build. Sort of like having an oversized ferrule relative to the hosel size.

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As a point of builder's pride, I really focus on getting the ferrule flush with the top of the hosel with as tight a gap as possible. I preset every ferrule using the actual iron head while using a brass tip weight if needed in the shaft tip. Using special Golfworks clamps while the epoxy cures helps a lot and keeps the shafts, ferrules, & hosels centered. https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-head-to-shaft-drying-clip/p/gm1035/

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To answer some of the questions, the ferrule is collared, and the gap is only on one side which is the back side of the hosel. I set the ferrules with the iron head for that shaft prior to any epoxy so it would be at the right height. I do give the the butt end of the shaft a tap on the ground to make sure it was fully seated. I will say the collared ferrules at first did not want to seat properly in the head.

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If the collard ferrule does not sit tight on the dry fit, it will not seat down on the cure.

In that case, best to use a different ferrule or cut the collar off the ferrule before installing it.

I install the collard ferrule in the shaft about 1” and then insert the shaft into the ferrule head to dry fit; push the shaft in all the way and it stops the ferrule at the correct height. If it seats down properly, it will cure fine, if it rides up away from the hosel you need to look at other options.

I have heated the top of the hosel and then installed the shaft with the ferrule already on the shaft as a dry fit-the heat from the hosel will melt the ferrule collar enough for it to form properly. But you do not want the hosel real hot or it will distort the Ferrule.

Rox

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In that case, best to use a different ferrule or cut the collar off the ferrule before installing it.

 

No need to cut the whole collar off. Just trim a bit off the end if depth is a problem. Or sand it down a bit if width is a problem. A few seconds of elbow grease solves a lot of problems.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Ping i20 3 Hyb 707H Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-PW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, Ping ES 56º and ES 60º
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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Yeah-that’s nice work!

It honestly looks better with the Chrome ringed ferrule.

Rox

2021 in the Bag!


Tsi2 9°/Hzrdus RDX Blue 6.5<br  />Tsi2 15°/Aldiss Green 75X<br />Epic Flash 21° Hzrdus Black 6.5<br/>Mizuno CLK 19°/Speeder Stiff<br>Srixon Z785 5 iron/$Taper 125<br>Epon 303 6 iron/$-Taper 125<br/>ZX-7 7-PW/$-Taper 125<br/>51° Cobra King Tour MiM Gap Wedge/AMT Wedge Black>Callaway MD4 Forged 54°10/KBS Tour S and SM8 D Grind 60°8/KBS Tour S<br />Taylormade Spyder S Blue<br />Bridgestone R-XS
Sun Moutain C130/ClicGear Rovic cart with Alphard E-Wheels V2
 

Backup:

Callaway Razr X forged 4-PW/DGX100

Srixon Z945 4-PW/Tour Elevate VSS X100

Scotty Cameron 5W Black 36”

 

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