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What's wrong with 10 year old clubs?


gdb99

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Like MBH i have mp63 mint bought a year ago. I spotted as new mp57 locally yestersay....i had the 2009 X Forged 3 years ago,Mizunos were softer and they were not 0.355ttip.J33 CB remain one set i miss ! Played I3 new in 2001? Always something for sale to rebuild so keep looking

NZ might be back to work next week or soon after so looking forward to just hitting a ball vs playing golf!

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2020 18 July mid winterNZ
Ping Rapture 2006 10.5
Nike VrS 3wood
Callaway Razr Edge5 wood

MP100=33 9876 5/mp63
54     RTX2
60     RTX2
ProPlatinum NewportTwo
2002 325gram +8.NewGrip
Dont hesitate to buy one!






 

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I still have three sets of old Mizunos circa 1996 - 2001. The problem is too much feedback, too much subtlety, too much subjective art in working the balls. Today's clubs go further (thanks to loft) and straighter (thanks to weighting) but there is no art - unless you use Tiger's Taylormade 681T irons. Just thinking about it tempts me to put some modern shafts in old clubs and see what happens.

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Actually saw online a set of xhot irons for 200 brand new. Looked great and the tech sounded great as well. I think from 2012. The short answer is nothing is really wrong with it unless your looking to change. I think every 5 or so years there is bigger improvements. I will say i think certain relases are better then others overall. So just testing and if your ready to switch is all it takes.

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Most will tell you there is nothing wrong but I disagree speaking from experience.

One, you get a free fitting, simulation data or even real grass tees depending on the demo location and almost endless customization (shaft brand, weight, lie, loft, grip etc) to suit your swing and taste.

Im my case, I’ll do a handful of demo sessions before I buy, but the sales staff are cool with it.

Im fully confident my equipment is well fitted for me and optimized for performance.

My buddy however is the polar opposite of me, wastes time with flakes for bargains, gets ill fitted equipment, worn, tinkers on, has no evidential data and always chasing.

Funny enough, he’s a better golfer than me but it wasn’t until now he has started to figure his specifications out by trial and error (15 years later!). I laugh before our round because when he opens up his trunk, there’s loose shafts, heads, and different sets! I shake my head.

Haha I wasn’t going to help him out in the fitting department!

When you add the money, time and assurance, I came out ahead over my buddy.

 

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In the woods I'd say yes, but for the rest of the bag? Not in the slightest. You won;t find any foam filled nonsense like PXG's or P790's, but if you're looking at one piece forgings I honestly don't think much has changed over the last 15 years other than the groove rule.

For instance I'm currently playing a set of VR Pros from 2011, and thought I;d try a couple of 2020 models over Xmas - the 620 MB and MP-20. The numbers and consistency I was getting from the new ones were identical to my old Nikes - if anything, they were around 5 yards longer than the newer models, and easier to move left/right when needed.

I'd say go for it - if they don't work, you'll make you money back easily.

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The Dee Three - Titleist TS4 9.5 deg, EvenFlow White 6.5 65g, A1 Setting

Henrik - Titleist 917 F3 15 deg, Rogue Max 75x, B2 Setting

The Walking Stick - Titleist 818 H2 19 deg, Rogue Max 85x, B2 Setting

The Interloper - TaylorMade P770 3 iron, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5inch +1 deg loft

The Blades - Nike VR Pro 4 - AW, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5 inch

The Sand Iron - TaylorMade MG2 TW-12 Grind, 56 degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Flopper - TaylorMade MG2 TW-11 Grind, 60 Degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Putter - Nike Method 003 from The Oven

 

"Golf is only called golf as all the other four letter words have been taken"     - Leslie Nielsen

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I agree with what you're saying, but what you're saying is all about experimenting and getting properly fit, not about old vs. new equipment. Yes if the old equipment is worn out and ill fit for the player then it will be "inferior", but the same could be said about newer equipment as well.

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Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 9* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Stealth+ 16.5* Ventus Black 8x // Taylormade SIM Ti V2 16.5* Ventus TR Blue 7X
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 18* Graphite Design AD-IZ 95X
Callaway X-Forged Single Diamond 22* Nippon GOST Hybrid Tour X 
Bridgestone 
J40 DPC 4i-7i 24*- 35* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 39*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot || Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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I just put a set of DG AMT s300 shafts in a 15 year old set of MP-37. Just to fool around with. With so many shaft options available today, it’s worth exploring.

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Driver: Titleist 913 D3 8.5° A-1 setting Graphite Design YS-6+ 65g stiff

Wood:  Titleist 980F 17° Aldila NV stiff

Hybrid: Titleist 909H 21° Aldila Voodoo stiff 

Irons:  Titleist 716 AP2 4- W  DG AMT S300

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM7  54°,  58° DG S200

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot #1 Tour

Ball: Titleist Pro V1

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While I agree getting fit is important, I haven't had much luck with it. The places around here are inside only with Tracman.

I've been doing this for 30 years, your friend is still a rookie.

I'm a pretty standard fit, Callaway lie angle is between most Titleist and Mizuno irons, I know what I need there. And I would get lies and lofts checked since they are so old. These are a one piece forging, not a lot of new "tech" involved. In fact, Golfworks playability numbers have this older set a little more "forgiving" than new models.

This set in particular is 3-PW. The 3 and 4 iron are still in the wrapper. I only use 6-PW, and the faces are in great shape. The shaft weight is right where I need it for my swing.

But, one the other guys that responded made me think. He mentioned I would probably get my money back if they don't work out.

Well, looking at the "sold" auctions on Fleebay, I don't think I will. I think this set is priced a little high.

I just played 2 rounds putting my AP1's in the bag. I've hit more greens than the last set I have been trying, and my misses were still pretty good for easy up and downs. I've decided I really don't need to go to a smaller headed iron. I usually go by the moto "play the most forgiving club you can stand to look at". Until I start playing well, then I need "players" irons.

The cycle never ends....

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Latest iron tech would include thin hot faces on GI, tungsten inserts low in toe to aid launch, lightweight steel shafts, and variable weighted shafts. Most of that is five to ten year old

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Driver: Titleist 913 D3 8.5° A-1 setting Graphite Design YS-6+ 65g stiff

Wood:  Titleist 980F 17° Aldila NV stiff

Hybrid: Titleist 909H 21° Aldila Voodoo stiff 

Irons:  Titleist 716 AP2 4- W  DG AMT S300

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM7  54°,  58° DG S200

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot #1 Tour

Ball: Titleist Pro V1

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I get it, fair points.

I am standard length and lie as well but I am just OCD down to the shaft specifications. I just don’t compromise in the area of fitting.

The kicker for me is time, you can kill a lot of time with used ads because there are a lot of flakes and hagglers, plus travelling time; I just won’t make time me for that.

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Irons not a lot. Fairway clubs, not a lot. Drivers different story.

PING
G425 LST 10.5* Alta CB Slate 55S

G430 Max 3W Alta CB Slate 65S

G410 2H, 3H Alta CB Red 70S

Glide 2.0 ES 54,60 AWT wedge S (blackout)

Vault Anser 2 Slate

Callaway 

Apex Pro Combo ‘19 5-A Steelfiber i95S

Titleist

ProV1 (2021) Yellow / White

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Would have to agree with several of the responses here. Irons- really not much. Yes you could make an argument for the juiced faces, they are longer when hit dsp, but very inconsistent otherwise. Fairways/hybrids- really not much again. I have several older vintage that I could easily drop in the bag. Drivers- 10 years might be a little long. Anything in the last 5 would be fine though. I still have a Bridgestone J715 thats every bit as good as anything current, and it's 5-6 years old now.

Mizuno ST-X 230 10.5

Mizuno ST-Z 15d. 

Titleist 818h2 17d. 

WIlson Staff C300 forged 4-pw

Srixon ZX utility 20d. 

Scratch 8620 53d. 

Odyssey white hot pro

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Not a thing wrong with older irons. I reshafted a set of BeCu PING Zings with black powder-coated AMT Tour White shafts and they look and perform spectacularly. My other iron sets are a bit older too, being G25;s and Wilson Staff FG Tour F5's, but nothing newer would be any better. Maybe longer due to jacked lofts, but certainly not better.

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PING G400 Max 10.5° GD YS Nano Reloaded 6X                                            

TaylorMade SIM2 Max 16.5° 3HL Mitsubishi Diamana Kai'Li 70 X                                                       

Callaway V-Series 19° 5 wood Mitsubishi Diamana Kai'Li 80 S                                                         

PING G410 22°, 26° & 30° Hybrids KBS Steel Hybrid Shaft X                                               

Adams A4 Forged 7-PW Dynamic Gold AMT X100 D4                                                                        

Cleveland CBX 50°, 55° Dynamic Gold S400

Cleveland CBX Full Face 60° Dynamic Gold Tour Spinner

Odyssey 2-Ball Blade w/Triple Trac

Vice Pro Plus Lime

                                              

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Watch...you will have entirely different clubs in your signature next week. Just curious...is.picking irons really rocket science......most come with the same dynamic gold shafts anyway. Blades are basically all the same...think Tige r's. I think Callaway just glues a different medallion in the back of their cavity back irons every year..same with ping. The truly scientific way to test clubs is to try a club out on the course that you bought your son...make sure you then put it in your bag. I loved his titleist fw with aldila by you stiff shafts so much that I bought a ping rapture driver with the same shaft for $40. Of course, i wouldn't be able to find that shaft in a new driver and no I dont need the waste of time adjustability of a new driver..long and down the middle is good enough for me!

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Some of the best(most accurate) Irons I ever played were the Taylor Made R7 TPs with Dynamic Gold SL shafts and the Callaway 2013 X Forged (PX Flighted)- I kept them til the grooves were gone. I'd love to have either set back. Just ordered a "used" set of the Callaway 2018 X Forged in hopes they'll last as long and be as good as their predecessors. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the "older" clubs- especially if you're comfortable with them and they fit your game

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Rogue ST Max(10.5*) Tensei AV Blue

Apex UW (17*) Mitsubishi Tensei AV Blue

Apex Pro 21 Hybrid (20*/23*) KBS Hybrid

Apex 21 6-PW (Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Tour 120)

Jaws MD5 50*S (Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Wedge)

Full Toe Raw 54*(Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Wedge)

Full Toe Raw 58* (Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Wedge)

WHOG #5

 

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I picked up a set of Ping Eye2+ last October and played some great golf with them. Once I adjusted to the loft differences (hitting 7 instead of 8) I was deadly with them. The only reason I got rid of them was that I needed a set that were USGA groove compliant so I picked up a set of R9 TPs. Only got a chance to hit them a round before courses close but I was impressed with them. Higher launching and seemingly no distance loss compared to the Srixon 745s I had played for 2 years.

As you can see from signature, The Bridgestone is the only thing "current" and that's because it was was so cheap. Haven't had a chance to compare it to the J33 that I had been using for several rounds before.

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Maltby KE4 TC Max MPF Pro Stiff
Callaway Rogue 3W Synergy 60

Maltby KE4 Tour TC 19*, 22* Matrix  HX3 White Tie
Taylormade Burner TP Japan Issue 5-PW DG120

Callaway MD4 Raw 52*, 58* DG115
Maltby PTM-5

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