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Leather Grips? Who is using and what do you think


granata10

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I have been using Best Grips Microperf for the last 18 months and they are great. I do not notice the seam at all and don’t use a glove and they are still tacky. I have not washed them either and probably should but haven’t found any need to as of yet. I had my local golf shop install them. Definitely happy I went with them.

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Excess solvent that soaked into the leather during install most likely. You can totally screw up leather grips by doing that. When not playing, wrap the grip tightly in newspaper. It will draw out the solvent. I always install with air using painters tape and mild soap solution. Mine are all tacky (some more than others).

BT

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Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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Thanks for the tip!!! I want to say that sounds exactly like the feeling im getting from them....... especially bc some are worse than others

TM Qi10 9* ... KBS TD Serape 60x

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TM Stealth 2+ 6w*... KBS TD Rainbow 80x

Titleist 5h 23* C1 ... KBS Proto 105 S+

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I have used leather grips now for probably 6-7 years. I have both Best Grips and Gripmasters and like both. I usually put two wraps under my right hand with the GM grips and don't have to with the BG grips. That's about the total of the difference with the BG Pro Taper. It says on both manufacture's websites that buildup is limited because the leather doesn't stretch. I think two wraps is about max for sewn grips. With the BGs, I find the perferrated grips are considerably more tacky than non-perferated. I know the GM Kidd and Signature seem to run smaller than all the others too. My favorites are the BG Micro Perf, GM Roo, GM Master Perf, and the GM Classic Wrap for adjustable woods. On pricing, BG does (or did) offer a WRX discount and they are also offering a wrap now, IIRC. GM are available from the GM website and also Golfworks in the US and Canada (I think). I find the Classic Wrap to be the most tacky and the Signature to be the least tacky. Roos are the softest, then the Wraps, the Master Perf and the Signature. BG texture falls in with the Master Perf, IMHO. Golfworks has Roos at $17.99 currently, which I think is a steal! They also offer the underlisting and wrap strips seperately for those who might need either without the other.

For installation, I use air, 2" wide blue painters tape and mild mixture of dishwashing soap and water in a spray bottle. I use a Campbell Hausfeld compressor with the grip installing tip. The following process is what I do with standard .600 b u t t graphite taper shafts. Steel tapers and larger graphites take a different layering to get the size grip I want. Anyway, Since Painters tape is slightly thinner than gripping tape, I usually put two layers 5" long under the lower part of the grip (except on Best Grips) and then 3 layers full length, rolling the last inside the b u t t of the shaft. I also sand a bit of a taper on the outside edge of the b u t t of graphite shafts to avoid any sharp edges. When using steel shafts, I usually roll the two last layers over to give better protection against cutting. While covering the b u t t cap hole, I shoot 12 sprays of the soap solution down the grip and shake for about 30 secs. Making sure the inside of the grips is coated very well. I then spray the soap solution on the tape completely covering it. Don't leave dry spots! I then pour out the solution in the grip and immediately work it over the end of the shaft b u t t by hand. I then insert the air nozel, place my hand at the COLLAR OF THE GRIP and apply short bursts of air while pushing the grip on. I actually remove the nozel from the grip after each burst to relieve any back pressure. I typically keep my hand positioned on the last few inches of the b u t t of the shaft when sliding the grip on. The first 3/4 of the grip usually goes on easy and the last 1/4 is a bit more work. I have to apply a good bit of pressure to get the cap to seat on the shaft b u t t. While seating the b u t t cap, I blow as much of the soap solution as I can out the other end of the grip around the shaft. This seems to help them stay put quicker and longer. I can usually swing the clubs at full speed a few minutes after gripping them. I have only had twisting on some older steel shaft that had an unusually quick taper on the b u t t end where I hadn't put enough buildup tape. For those not wanting to build up the grips, I find that 2 layers works fine. I have done this on some midsize Wraps that I have been trying and had no problems.

BT

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Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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I have been using GripMaster leather grips for around 7 years now. They are expensive but the best. I tend to Ho clubs so this has caused a bit of a issue with these grips.

I found that the best method for install is compressor with AIR hair spray and just normal masking tape if you plan to just leave the grip on. If you end up removing the grip to try on other clubs or to remove before you sell then the air will eventually cause the grip to slip and stretch at the bottom of the grip.

To stop this from happening here in Australia we use Contact adhesive AKA rubber cement. If you use this then grips install super easy just slid right on and there is no slipping at the bottom of the grip. They are also very easy to blow back off with a compressor.

If you use double sided tape and solvent with leather grips then you will not be able to get them off with out the tape sticking to the rubber inside of the grip.

 

also the Roo swingers are the best and tackiest version of the gripmasters.

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Titleist TI Raw SM6 Vokey 56/61 TI DG S400 Black 
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I have had the Roos on my clubs for a year now and have wiped them down religiously. I'm a bit disappointed that it requires me to wipe each grip with a damp cloth to restore most of the tackiness before I use them. The tackiness doesn't last that long before i have to wipe it down again. The weather has been cool so that might be a reason. Anyway I am considering changing back to rubber. One other poster mention that his grips were slick, I thought it was just me.

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I have been a long time Gripmaster Roo user and love these grips. As others have pointed out no need for a glove as they are tacy and if they start to get slick just take a wet towel to them and let dry for a few minutes and the tac returns. I install my own grips and I use the air compressor and painter tape method. However, I use this specific type of painters tape [1.88" wide 3M Scotch Rough Surface Painter's Tape - 2060 (green color stuff not blue)]. This stuff won't allow the grip to slip like I found with the blue painters tape.

DRIVER - CALLAWAY PARADYM X 9*

FAIRWAY WOODS - PING G430 15* / 18* / 21*

IRONS - PXG 0317 CB [5i-GW]

WEDGES - MIZUNO T22 54.08 / 58.08 / 62.08

PUTTER - LAB Mezz.1 Max Broomstick

PXG 0317 X

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For me, its usually once a round. I give them a quick rub down with plain water on a towel before the start of the round and the tac is back - - - mine last the entire round but YMMV. In addition, the more humid/wet your hands get the tackieer the grips will get so you should see better results in the Spring/Summer vs Winter. I love them so much, I will never go back to rubber grips. I am so spoiled and used to the leather Roo's that the normal rubber grips feel so foreign to me now.

DRIVER - CALLAWAY PARADYM X 9*

FAIRWAY WOODS - PING G430 15* / 18* / 21*

IRONS - PXG 0317 CB [5i-GW]

WEDGES - MIZUNO T22 54.08 / 58.08 / 62.08

PUTTER - LAB Mezz.1 Max Broomstick

PXG 0317 X

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I was curious about these too. So I ordered a Grip Master Roo and installed it on my driver. Absolutely love it! It’s tacky, real tacky, so if that concerns you - it’s not for you. I like a ribbed grip so the seam feels very good to me. A few of the guys I play with have also been fascinated by it. Will replace my other grips when they wear out with the GM Roo.

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I've been playing mid size Grip Master Kidd grips for about 7 months now. Will probably never play a rubber grip again. I have 2 wraps top hand, 4 wraps bottom hand- never had an issue installing the grips (double sided tape and solvent). The stitch on the back of the grip (reminder) has never bothered me. I think they have great feel and the tackiness is amazing. Some guys have said you don't need to wear a glove with them. I do still wear a glove and haven't worn one out since I put the leather grips on my clubs. The only reason I change out gloves is for sweaty hands to let the glove dry out.

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Ogio Silencer Alphard E-wheels

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How much contact cement? Just on the end of the shaft? I believe this was Harry Sewill's method of installing. Details would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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I followed the exact method they show on their website. Run the brush with contact cement around the inside opening of the grip, spray some WD40 on the tape on the shaft and a tiny squirt inside the grip. Start the grip on the shaft. Air the grip up with the compressor and pull the grip all the way on. It literally works exactly as he shows in the video.

 

supposedly the beauty of the contact cement is when you break the contact it doesn’t stick anymore. Air up the grip and it should come off relatively easy.

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I have been using Gripmaster wrap grips for years.

I have never used a glove and I never felt happy playing in rain with rubber or even cord grips.

It took me a couple of days to get use to the grips but I cannot see me ever changing back to rubber.

Yes they are more expensive but with the correct care, don’t use soap to clean them, only warm water and don’t get sunscreen on them, they seem to last for ever.

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I have replied on several posts concerning leather grips. I am on my second year of using Grip Masters in hot, humid, Central Florida. Switching to leather was the best club build decision I have ever made. I no longer need to wear a glove and the grips just get better with age. I installed them with air and have removed them and reinstalled them 2x (went from steel to graphite in my irons last year, got new irons this year) without any issue. Simply wipe them down and go. I will never play a rubber grip again. I expect these to last at least three seasons easily (year round golf here). That combined with no more top tier gloves to buy(5-6 a year on avg) has basically made the investment in leather better than rubber as I would change them 1x a year. So over 3 years I would have bought 3 sets of grips, and almost 20 gloves....If they last longer than 3 years and right now they show no signs of wear then the value proposition just gets better.

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I have been using Grip Master since 2017, The Master is on my 3w, The Roo Swinger on all irons, and tried a few of The Kidd. Living year around in Florida I needed the tackiness in the hot and humid summer, and I'm not disappointed. The Master has a firm feel, the Roo a slightly firm and The Kidd depends on the size of the grip. I have a couple standard which are slightly firm, but the midsize are a little more "squishy". So far, the Kidd grips don't seen to be holding up compared to the others, still in good shape but there is more wear. If you purchase and install yourself, take your time if you are not seasoned in installing grips, I've used tape and solution, I use mineral spirits, but as of late have been using the air compressor. As for care of the grip, follow the instructions, use a soft bristled brush and hot/warm water, NO SOAP! I also carry on course a large waffle golf towel, half of it soaking wet to occasionally wipe the grip if needed, the wetter the grip the tackier it gets, but I do dry it before swinging. You will know when it's time to clean them with the hot water and brush, leather being porous will absorb the oil and dirt, they will feel a bit slick, but after using the brush, will be like new again. IMHO these are well worth the initial cost, and they are very similar in weight to rubber grips. As far as cost, if you shop around you can occasionally get them on sale at Golfworks.com and currently at Regalbrands.com

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I befriended Harry sometime around 2006. He was running the company before BestGrips. I had just got into the leather grips because of a Cameron Circa 1 putter I just purchased and investigated the manufacturer of them. That's how I found Harry. After a few emails exchanged he told me to call him and we struck up a friendship. He told me a lot of stories about people in the industry and stories about a few professional golfers. Some were interesting and some were hilarious. I even saw the prototype of the Gridiron leather and he asked me what I thought about it. Over the next few years I got the occasional sample to test from Harry and Miss Susan. Harry took great care of me. I was a convert to GripmasterUSA and from 2006 I have always had a grip made by the Sewills on my clubs. After the GripmasterUSA/Gripmaster split I went to BestGrips. For personal reasons I will never have a Gripmaster grip on any of my clubs ..... never. (That is my feeling and something out of respect for Harry I will not discuss). That said, my relationship with BestGrips began because Harry was kind and gracious to me. I have always paid for my grips, and still do. Zach is doing great things there and Miss Susan is still there. This is a "Salt of the Earth" company who will always do right with the customer. As long as BestGrips makes grips they will always be on my clubs. RIP Harry and thanks for being my friend.

 

As for the courses in FoCo, they're good. Collindale Golf Club (my home club) is in terrific condition with greens a bit slow. They punched the greens a couple weeks ago and they are coming along nicely, Green speed is around 8-8.5 on the stimp (my best guess) instead of the usual 10-10.5. It is too bad too many golfers don't know how to fix a ball mark. My biggest pet peeve. Fix the stinkin' pitch marks for the Love of Pete!!!! How are the courses where you're at? I'm looking to get out on Saturday but will have to call in to see if there's a single slot anywhere. Schedule is full.

Edited by RobotDoctor
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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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Played Meadow Hills Yesterday and it is coming along. They just punched greens as well but the course is in great shape. Playing Broadmoor East tomorrow. I believe I know why you wont use Gripmaster and That is another story..... Stay safe my friend and if and when you come down to Denver, PM me and we can set up a time to play.

Brian

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At this time please be patient with BestGrips. The founder, Harry, just passed away. This is a difficult time for them. Believe me, they are worth it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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Will do! Broadmoor East? ............

(Yes, that's a drool emoji )

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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