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Using air to install grip on graphite shaft


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So I got my new driver. I had asked that it be delivered to my pro with the grip in the box, and he and I would horse trade rather than pay their upcharge for the GP MC Midsize grip I prefer.

What I had hoped to do was install it on the club without tape same as I had done on one of my irons, and test out whether that is a method I can use in future. I put a bit of masking tape over the end to protect the end, keep water out of shaft, etc.

As I tried to install, the grip would move a bit, but would then develop a huge bubble just above the bands(so about a 1/4" from the opening. It happened a few times so I finally ended up doing the tape and solvent traditional manner.

So my questions would be: is tape on graphite a must just to get the grip to move? Should I have poked a tiny hole in the grip? Appreciate any feedback. I did some trial and error, but did not want to waste a grip.

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If you've never done it, there's a "touch" to develop. Also maybe turn down your regulator.

For me, it's kind of like with solvent and tape, you need to keep things moving smoothly to get the grip to go on easily. I find air slightly more difficult for installation, but orders of magnitude easier for removal. As such, i only mess with air when i know a shaft or grip is getting swapped in the future

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I always use tape to get the size right in the end - but there is no reason the grip material would be any stickier on the graphite than it would be on steel.

You might want to check the actual butt diameter of the graphite shafts, it may just be that they are bigger than the steel which would make the installation a little bit harder. I've seen them get as large as 0.640, although that big is not that common.

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Thats got nothing to do with graphite vs steel, but the difference in shore value from butt to tip on New Decade grips. They are the worse grips ever for those who use compressed air, its simply not the way to put them on, since your experience, a grip thats stuck and a large air bobble who destroy the front half of the grip is what we can expect. Only BU tape is not much better, so its the grips rubber compound in the front half thats the issue, it stick to the shaft very easy, and trap the air and that bubble comes....

I know the problem VERY WELL, since i used compressed air on ALL shafts for fitting, so i was able to offer all testing done with the right grip model and size, but i had to give this up for New Decade, it cost me way to many grips, so those players would have to use another model, but the right weight and size. I tried almost any possible way to avoid this, but since we want the club to be play ready NOW, non of the methods that could bring new decade on with air could be used.

Find another grip for testing until you have found play lengths etc, thats the best advice i can give you, New Decade is hopeless with compressed air.

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Use masking or painter tape, and a few drops of lubricant. I had use grip solvent, or even water...... don't need much and drys up quickly. Grip will be ready to use immediately If the I.D. of the grip fits the O.D. of the shaft.

To prevent the grip from ballooning , use a shield for the grip. I had used the cut off plastic club tube ( the kind you insert into the bag to keep the shafts from tangling ), or a hard cardboard tube from Saran Wrap ( not the flimsy kind, the one which is made of heavy material ) or had used a piece of plastic tube from hardware store. You only need to protect the rubber portion of the brip on the New Decade. I use the shield mainly for removing the grip. For installing, proper size of the grip and a little help from lubricant works every time. After the grip is in. push from the end of the grip while applying air, that will straighten the grip and retract any extended section while installing. For the New Decade type of golf grip which has two different types of material, the end had cord which makes the grip porous from the insertion of the fabric, so air would leak at the end of the grip and got stuck when air moving to the rubber section. Use a piece of plastic tube ( 4'-5' ) at the section where the material changes. Then move it to the section where air got stuck and try to balloon up. Control the volume of air with the trigger and slow down immediately when the grip tries to expand, then move the tube to that section before proceeding. The tube will stop the grip from over expanding but will fill up the tube which will give a better hold to twist and assist the removing process.

I use 120 psi. More psi is your friend, learn to use it correctly ( controlling the volume) and you won't have any blown up grip. The protective sleeve also aid in removing grips that was installed with grip tape. Put a few drops of solvent into the vent hole at the end of the grip, put the sleeve on and apply air, repeat the solvent process a few times...... the air will send the solvent down the grip between the grip and the tape and when part of the grip expand inside the tube, you can twist the tube to loosen the grip ( add solvent from the vent hole and let the air sent the additional solvent down to the part which is stuck ). No need for specialized tool .

I do not block the end of the shaft with tape when installing grip with air, try that next time. No need to block the end of the shaft and an open end will allow the condensation of moisture escape to prevent rusting of the steel shafts. Even if installing with grip tape and solvent, often poke a hole through the end of the shaft sealed with tape by installing with solvent after drying.

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I always use painters tape. It definitely takes some time to get the touch right to feather grips on. Also if it was a counterbalanced shaft I think some might be .610 in the butt making it more difficult.

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Painters tape and a mild soap solution in a spray bottle. FIll the grip (covering the hole in the b u t t) and shake the h e l l out of it. Spray on the taped shaft covering completely and then dump the grip empty, slip over the end of the shaft and apply air while sliding on. The softer the rubber, the less air you should use.

BT

 

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Did you use a little solvent in the tip of the grip before installing? I used to have problems installing grips with air until I began putting ~1/2 tsp of solvent in the tip of the grip (squeeze the grip about 1 inch down to keep solvent from running all the way into the grip). After I put the solvent in, I drain it out of the opening, slide it onto the shaft about 2 inches, then install with air easily. I never have any bubbling issues. The small amount of solvent dries very quickly and my grips do not move.

FWIW, I have been installing GP New Decade grips for several years this way and have never damaged a grip.

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