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Persimmon Woods


Guest Kedmonds23

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  • 2 weeks later...

In my opinion the main difference is in forgiveness. If any part of the vast expanse of face on a modern driver is brought in contact with the ball you will get a result. Off centre will probably cost you no more than 10% in distance. Not so with traditional woods where you need to find the very centre (middle of the screws) of the much smaller face - any deviation results in a rapid drop off in distance.

The much marketed increase in distance provided by modern technology is, in my opinion, largely due to that greater margin for error which allows you to swing harder and faster - assisted also by 3" longer shafts due to the light weight heads. The control and accuracy required to play vintage woods usually translated into swinging at 80% of power. I believe "iron Byron" testing has shown remarkably little advance in distance for comparable centre hits at the same swing speed.

The other important difference is that no modern club can replicate the sound and feel of a pure wood strike much less the craftsmanship and beauty of wooden clubs. 

To summarise, modern drivers will flatter you, traditional woods tell you like it is!

The best way to tell the difference is to experience it.

 

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1 hour ago, Stephen8802 said:

I have a modern driver and agree with those comments...a modern club increases swing speed through a longer shaft and lessens the punishment of bad swings through a larger sweet spot.  On the downside, however, I find modern clubs encourage poor swing habits and eventually get me into trouble. My modern driver's forgiveness let me to swinging to hard, which eventually caught up with me and got me into trouble.


In addition, hitting a modern club is a soulless experience that trades a sense of accomplishment on hitting a ball well for a lower score. Once I stopped keeping score, going back to persimmon brought joy back to golf.

 

Couldn't agree more!

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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I have done quite a bit of recent comparison between Persimmon and Titanium, most of the pros and cons have been well and truly discussed on this board. The main issue between persimmon and titanium is not overall distance, or even forgiveness for a reasonable consistent ball striker it is carry distance. Because the ball fight is lower the the landing angle of persimmon is quite a bit shallower than titanium (generally) and relies on greater roll out to mitigate the slight loss of ball speed....but....if you are faced with a forced carry of an on course hazard the loss of height and carry distance can bring these hazards into play which would not be such a consideration with titanium. With that said, I only play Persimmon woods these days because I find them most beneficial to my swing as they demand a well timed and precise swing which in turn helps my iron ball striking. I would not play Persimmon if I felt I was at a disadvantage when all pros and cons are considered.

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Persimmon woods require a high spin ball.  Most of the balls today are low spin which will drastically affect the flight of the ball with a persimmon driver.  That would explain the low ball flight and run.  For those who never played persimmon and balata balls may never understand how that combination worked so well.  This combination allowed for the ball flight to achieve what we achieve with titanium and low spin balls.  Mishits on persimmon an a high spin ball allowed for a phenomenon called gear effect.  Balls hit on the toe had a tendency to draw back to the target line and conversely balls hit on the heal would fade back.  Low spin balls simply will not do this.  There are some soft compression high spin balls made today.  These are what I would hit a persimmon wood with unless a person has a stash of old balata balls.  I have used a Bridgestone E5 ball with an early 50's MacGregor driver and have hit it close to the distances of my titanium gamer.  That was on a dead center struck shot.  Of course shots off center start losing distance quickly.  To me there is no better feeling of striking a balata ball on the screws of a persimmon wood.

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have recently started using a persimmon 2 wood as my driver. Started when I played a "vintage" round with a Slazenger Ambassador set. Found ball not going quite as far (don't have a high speed swing) but going pretty straight and hence hitting more fairways. Tried my titanium driver again recently but seem to find it harder to get consistent centre strikes - so at moment persimmon back in bag. Also if decent lie can use this 2 wood from the deck. 

Also used a persimmon 5 & 3 wood for a while & also very easy to swing and hit on the screws but have reverted to a metal 5 & 7 wood as launch height & distance slightly better. 

Edited by Nickc
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  • 1 month later...

I play persimmon wood and blade irons every day, both manufactured in 1988, don’t even own any current gear other than my low compression ball (Wilson). Pebble Beach isn’t any longer today than when I first played it in 1988. At my current club, every one playing with modern equipment there hits driver/short iron into nearly every hole and often have a eagle putt try on the par 5s.

I prefer using all my clubs, the whole bag, not just a driver and wedge. The courses I play and the way I play them harken back to the pros from the Hogan era up to the advent of metal drivers etc. that’s the game that gives me the most pleasure. Bringing “the monster to it’s knees” is far more gratifying, my opinion of course, with using the whole bag, on in two with 2 and 3 irons, etc....

I play to 4 handicap.

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10 minutes ago, Bruceapex said:

I play persimmon wood and blade irons every day, both manufactured in 1988, don’t even own any current gear other than my low compression ball (Wilson). Pebble Beach isn’t any longer today than when I first played it in 1988. At my current club, every one playing with modern equipment there hits driver/short iron into nearly every hole and often have a eagle putt try on the par 5s.

I prefer using all my clubs, the whole bag, not just a driver and wedge. The courses I play and the way I play them harken back to the pros from the Hogan era up to the advent of metal drivers etc. that’s the game that gives me the most pleasure. Bringing “the monster to it’s knees” is far more gratifying, my opinion of course, with using the whole bag, on in two with 2 and 3 irons, etc....

I play to 4 handicap.

 

People played to scratch back in the 80s with ancient technology.  Not me but it's not like it's now impossible to play good golf with old school clubs.  I have a couple Eye2 woods and I hit the ball fine with them.  Longer and better than I thought I would.

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