Torching Putter Prep Help

[thomasbcrenshaw]

Hi All,

Long time lurker in y’all’s post, but first time posting here. I’ve recently been bitten by the putter customization bug, and I have a few questions regarding putter torching that I was hoping someone might have experience/insight to. I’ve already torched a few putters, so this isn’t my first go at it, but I’ve run into a few issues that I assume are due to my inexperience.

Here’s the process that I’ve followed thus far in my attempts:

1. Soak in acetone & remove paint fill.
2. Sanding (rinsing between changes in grits)
3. Polish with red rouge compound
4. Clean with warm soapy water
5. Clean with industrial degreaser from local hardware store
6. Clean with acetone
7. Cook in oven for 1-1.5 hours at 500 degrees to uniformly “pre-heat” the putter head
8. Torch until right before the desired color is reached
9. Air cool

Sanding Progression:

• 120 grit in a 7:00 to 1:00 o’clock direction
• 240 grit in a 5:00 to 11:00 o’clock direction
• 320 grit in a 7:00 to 1:00 o’clock direction
• 400 grit in a 5:00 to 11:00 o’clock direction
• 600 grit in a 7:00 to 1:00 o’clock direction
• 400 grit (wet sanding) in a 6:00 to 12:00 o’clock direction
• 600 grit (wet sanding) in a 6:00 to 12:00 o’clock direction
• 1000 grit (wet sanding) in a 6:00 to 12:00 o’clock direction
  • **I recognize that these may be over-kill; however, I don’t have a media blaster and I figured the brushed look would yield the best results with the tools I have**
  • ***I took the cross-hatch approach to sanding for the first passes of sanding to ensure I didn’t have any deep or errant gouges from previous grits, and I didn’t change grits until all of my sanding marks were in the same direction to ensure a uniform finish***

**I recognize pre-heating the head could be done with a heat gun, which would take less time, but I feel that using the oven reduces my risk for uneven heating & helps me to achieve a more uniform finish when I torch**

Now to my question:

1. If I do not have any marring or nicks on the milling chatter/marks of the face/top line bridge, how do I remove the original finish without sanding through the milling marks? 

• Is this why everyone first soaks the head in CLR/Coke?
• If so, how long do you let it soak for, and are there any subsequent steps to get it to torch-ready steel without sanding?
  • **I ask because I’d like to retain as much of the original craftsmanship (milling marks) as possible**

Because everyone loves pictures:

Here’s my first attempt at torching - Toulon San Diego that I’ve been really happy with

As well as a Ping Anser Milled that’s the cause for my post.

-I’m really happy with top line and sole, but I’m not a fan of the color disparity between the gold face/top line bridge and the iridescent purple everywhere else.

Thanks in advance!

[ItJustDiz]

I apologize for not having an answer to your question, given similar experience.. but the Toulon looks great and the Anser makes me want to touch my milled 5. Good work. 

 

Notice any difference in feel after heating? 

[thomasbcrenshaw]

Thanks for the support! I haven’t noticed any difference in feel, but that’s probably more of a direct result of my inexperience (I’ve only been playing for a few years) and my wrong-handedness. 

Did you try torching your Milled 5 as well? I did some research specific to the Ping Anser Milled putters, and I found the nickel-plated finish is what’s giving me the inconsistent results.. From what I saw, the only ways to remove this finish is to take it to a plater or use Caswell’s Metalx B-9. I’m still digging to see if any household products can remove the plating since I’ve removed most of it with sanding, but I may have to put this project back on the shelf until I can get some Metalx.

[ItJustDiz]

On 8/18/2020 at 4:31 AM, thomasbcrenshaw said:

Thanks for the support! I haven’t noticed any difference in feel, but that’s probably more of a direct result of my inexperience (I’ve only been playing for a few years) and my wrong-handedness. 

Did you try torching your Milled 5 as well? I did some research specific to the Ping Anser Milled putters, and I found the nickel-plated finish is what’s giving me the inconsistent results.. From what I saw, the only ways to remove this finish is to take it to a plater or use Caswell’s Metalx B-9. I’m still digging to see if any household products can remove the plating since I’ve removed most of it with sanding, but I may have to put this project back on the shelf until I can get some Metalx.

 

I didn't torch my ping.. I've done a Cleveland and a Rife and was pretty happy with the results even with some imperfections. Didn't see anything like the inconsistency you have on the ping.. CLR if you're unhappy!

[thomasbcrenshaw]

4 hours ago, ItJustDiz said:

 

I didn't torch my ping.. I've done a Cleveland and a Rife and was pretty happy with the results even with some imperfections. Didn't see anything like the inconsistency you have on the ping.. CLR if you're unhappy!

Right on! Did you ever post your results here? It’s always nice seeing others’ work. CLR didn’t get me anywhere unfortunately... the face and milling behind the top line (Gold areas) are the only places I didn’t sand much. I briefly tried immersing it in muriatic acid, which worked, but the acid seemed to like the chromium in the stainless more than the remaining nickel-plating. 
I have some Metalx on the way; I’ll be sure to share my results once I try it out!

[oneaugusta]

Best results are with polishing a couple times as a final step in prep then clean with 99% alcohol, "91% okay too".  If not polished good my experience is it will fade after a few months.

[thomasbcrenshaw]

1 hour ago, oneaugusta said:

Best results are with polishing a couple times as a final step in prep then clean with 99% alcohol, "91% okay too".  If not polished good my experience is it will fade after a few months.

Thanks for your input oneaugusta! I’ve read a bit more of your putter customization advice than I care to admit.. I’ve been polishing with white and green compound on a buffing wheel and finishing my prep with an acetone wipe down, but I think you use Flitz? Any particular reason you use Flitz and alcohol, or are they more of a personal preference? 
 

That Bobby Jones is a work of ark - I could only dream of torching that consistently. 

[thomasbcrenshaw]

I’ve been working on prepping an Odyssey Black Series i #1 while waiting for the Metalx for the Ping, and I’ve gotten it all polished up. Hoping to torch it tonight after work

[oneaugusta]

I started using Simi Chrome metal polish several years ago instead of Flitz.  It seems to remove more oxidation.  I also use the buffing wheel with the red or green rouge depending on the metal type.

[thomasbcrenshaw]

3 hours ago, oneaugusta said:

I started using Simi Chrome metal polish several years ago instead of Flitz.  It seems to remove more oxidation.  I also use the buffing wheel with the red or green rouge depending on the metal type.

Sounds great, thanks for all of your insight! In your experiences with torching carbon steel, do you always “quench” in oil after torching, and is this step primarily to add a protective finish? 

[oneaugusta]

Yes, on carbon I either quench after cooling about 2 or 3 minutes or wipe baby oil on after cooling about 10 minutes.  Can't really see any difference with either way and both soak in some oil for added protection.

[thomasbcrenshaw]

On 8/22/2020 at 4:18 PM, oneaugusta said:

Yes, on carbon I either quench after cooling about 2 or 3 minutes or wipe baby oil on after cooling about 10 minutes.  Can't really see any difference with either way and both soak in some oil for added protection.

I really appreciate all of the pointers. I didn’t like how the Odyssey turned out after torching it; I’ll try out the Simichrome polish & clean with 99% alcohol before giving it another go. I’ll be sure to share my results

[A.Princey]

The clean up is the biggest part of getting a uniform finish. Lots of acetone and thoroughness. During the final alcohol rinse, get some fiberless static wipes and get them very lightly damp with alcohol and wipe over the "pooled" areas after rinsing. The alcohol doesn't always dry immediately, and if these tiny areas are left to dry with beads of alcohol, it will cause a weird torch result. Wiping them "semi dry" with the damp static wipe cleans the surface perfectly. FWIW, this last wiping step is what separated my uneven torch job from my professional-looking ones. Good luck!

Edited August 26, 2020 by A.Princey

[thomasbcrenshaw]

It’s been awhile since my last update, but here’s one that I finished last night. I’m pretty happy with the end result. Could’ve been better on the flange if I had better lighting, but I’ll keep that in mind for next time.
 

Larry and Princey,

Thank you both for all of your input! The final prep steps were instrumental in getting such a great uniform finish. I’m still trying to figure out how to remove the nickel playing on the Ping unfortunately..

[oneaugusta]

Looks really good, I like the mix of reds and blues.

[GolfWithdrawals]

Well done!

[thomasbcrenshaw]

Thank you both! 
Oneaugusta, I tried to get a little variance, but I probably need to get a bit more experience with a uniform finish beforehand. So that’s what I opted to do with the Odyssey Black i series that I reached out to you about. Had I known that the torching would’ve turned out this well, I probably would’ve put a little more effort in the polishing. I also added an aluminum insert from Charles at Spry Evo, and I think it really compliments the tungsten weight. 

[thomasbcrenshaw]

A little while since my last update; work's been crazy lately.

Larry and Princey, your prep pointers have been instrumental in my success - I cannot thank you enough for your good will.

Here's a Mizuno TPM 4 that I just finished torching; the light doesn't do the blues any justice (I probably should have wiped the cotton fibers off a bit better too).

I'm happy with the color uniformity; maybe its time for me to start trying out some variety 🤘

Edited June 21, 2021 by thomasbcrenshaw