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Building a "One Length" Driver - Advice Needed

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I'm in the process of building a "one length" driver just to see if it will work.


Based on swing weight relation to shortening a club I've come up with needing to add in 93 grams back to the head (playing length of my current driver is 44" and will be shortening my build driver to 36.25" - currently play F7 Ones 4-7 and standard length Mizzys down to wedge also an F8 One Hybrid) to have it play "similar" since I don't have direct access to a scale yet.


The Parts:

- M5 head - 10.5

- 5 20 gram weights

- 2 stock weights


What I will need is some advice on shaft; if I shorten it by~8 inches what will it do to the flex - do I need to get different flex (currently play stiff)?


How about tip stiffness, I like a softer tip because of feel but with the added weight will I need a stiffer tip due to the weight added to the head?


Once I source the final parts I plan to build it and run a head to head comparison to see if distance is affected using a Mevo.



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Driver at a 8-9 iron playing length?  You're in uncharted territory.   All I can tell you is that adding that much weight to the head will roughly soften the flex by about 4 flexes - but tha

Driver at a 8-9 iron playing length?  You're in uncharted territory.


All I can tell you is that adding that much weight to the head will roughly soften the flex by about 4 flexes - but that's assuming the system reacts in linear manner - which is unlikely.  And completely bypassing the butt section will soften it even more.   All the normal club building rules of thumb will break down with that extreme a change so impossible to say what will happen or what you'll need.  


Best advice I can give is to find the stiffest .335 hybrid shaft you can find and tip it as much as the parallel tip section will allow.  Even then it will still probably be pretty soft - assuming it doesn't break.   You'd likely be much better off going to an old bonded driver head and boring it out so you can use an iron shaft instead of trying to get a wood shaft to work.


I'd also expect the lie angle to be so flat relative to what you need at that playing length that it could make it almost unplayable.


Don't forget it's also going to significantly screw up the grip size.  You'll need a lot of build up tape.


Edited by Stuart_G
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I once bought an older TM driver off a used rack that was built to 41”. It never had any weight added back to the head and it was an L flex. It played firmer than any S flex I’ve ever swung. I couldn’t hit it worth a lick so I retuned it. 

what’s the goal of this build?  Fairway finding ?

if so get a driver head and put a steel driver shaft in it at 43”. 

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I’d suggest getting a used Taylormade hybrid with an adjustable head. A GAPR Hi 6 comes with a very nice 39” KBS Tour shaft as stock. You can get them for well under $100. The shaft plays stiff to flex.


Stick it into the M5, set it to the most upright position, and try it out.


If it sucks, you can resell for what you paid.


If it works, you saved much stuffing around.

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That's for the feedback so far.it sounds like this will be a hit or miss project. but I'll probably have to find a hybrid shaft that will work too.


purpose is just for fun to see if I can have a full bag of 8 iron length or shorter.


I've played with an R9 steel shaft at 43 already and the head caused the shaft to bend/shift inside the adapter so now that I'm thinking of this I might have a similar affect with this build so I have to make sure I'm swinging it somewhere I can quickly retrieve the head incase it snaps off.


but so I far, need to set it more upright, need to possibly find a hybrid shaft, need to find the stiffest flex possible and maybe a stiff tip.

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