Turf interaction in irons - suggestions?

[Red4282]

1 hour ago, JCAG said:

To add to what CGA says and something I have been saying for years. Rory iron shot:

 

 

His club is clearly touching the turf before the ball, now it doesnt start the actual divot until afterwards, but its interacting with the “turf” before

[Jackal66]

I'm thinking the same thing lately.

The courses I play have thin grass.

Anytime you hit the ball, there is some grass between the clubface and the ball.

  I usually play Ping i15 irons or Mizuno JPX 800Pro irons.

Most of my bad shots are fat, or they appear that way.

Some have said " You would have a faster swing if your club didn't hit the ground first, and then the ball."

 Last week I got out my old Ping S59 irons.

They are thin, and I can " pick" the ball clean, and leave a small divot after the ball.

It could be the weight, etc. , but they don't seem to drag the grass on the way to the ball.

 In the past trying some ping G10 irons, it felt like trying to hit a driver out of 10 inch tall rough.

 Maybe this isn't what the OP was saying, but this is my experience.

 

 

Edited September 27, 2020 by Jackal66

[CROUSE99]

As to the OP's question, I suggest just buying a second set of Hogan Icons. 

[JCAG]

For anyone still needing convincing:

 

[jmck]

Y'all need to listen to North Butte on this one.  Just because you're supposed to hit the ball before the turf doesn't mean sole-turf interaction doesn't matter when it comes to getting the best actual shot results out of any one person's actual swing.  It is ENTIRELY within the realm of possibility that the OP picked up yardage because of a sole design which lets him get through the turf very easily AFTER hitting the ball, which improves his swing dynamics BEFORE he gets to the ball.  Like many, many other topics on golfwrx, this one shouldn't be up for debate, but here we are. 

 

There isn't opinion A and opinion B here, each equally valid.  There's right and wrong, and North Butte is right.

[jmck]

And I would encourage anyone who disagrees with me to swing by my place and together we can hit these two guys back to back. They’re within a degree of each other for loft, but one has the very same Srixon bounce soles mentioned here, while the other one dates from when long irons tended to have close to zero, possibly even negative bounce.

 

If you can hit them back to back then tell me sole design doesn’t matter because you’re supposed to hit the ball first I’ll happily pat you on the back then offer to sell you this great little bridge property I have stashed away, just for you.

 

 

[North Butte]

22 minutes ago, jmck said:

And I would encourage anyone who disagrees with me to swing by my place and together we can hit these two guys back to back. They’re within a degree of each other for loft, but one has the very same Srixon bounce soles mentioned here, while the other one dates from when long irons tended to have close to zero, possibly even negative bounce.

 

If you can hit them back to back then tell me sole design doesn’t matter because you’re supposed to hit the ball first I’ll happily pat you on the back then offer to sell you this great little bridge property I have stashed away, just for you.

 

 

I used to own an antique set of Macgregor blades (real blades) circa 1952. The 6-iron had a sole maybe 3/8" wide with negative bounce and a leading edge you could use to trim weeds in your garden. It took me about nine holes the first time out with them to start flinching so bad I was blading every shot. 

[RxGolf1]

17 hours ago, North Butte said:

I used to own an antique set of Macgregor blades (real blades) circa 1952. The 6-iron had a sole maybe 3/8" wide with negative bounce and a leading edge you could use to trim weeds in your garden. It took me about nine holes the first time out with them to start flinching so bad I was blading every shot. 

I noticed PXG has a ton of bounce on their players-distance irons. Has anyone been able to compare these to Srixons or Mizunos?

[FerrisBueller]

On 9/24/2020 at 9:12 AM, cgasucks said:

Sole design is irrelevant.  Unless you hit the ball fat the ball has already left the clubface by the time it hits the turf.   Here's a close up of Tiger hitting a stinger.

 

 

cgasucks... this is by far one of the dumbest things I've read on here. Stop by and play a negative bounce hickory wedge and tell me if your statement stands.

[ChipNRun]

On 9/24/2020 at 2:26 AM, MizunoMade said:

My thinking is that it must be the v-sole that lets me retain ballspeed. I take shallow divots and these must be exiting without loosing any speed.

Lots of players like the v-soles.

 

As for similar clubs, look at recent Z545 and Z565 Srixon models. They have the similar Tour VT sole. Srixon also has Z745 and Z765 models, which would play to the Hogan PTx models.

Another iron to consider would be the Tour Edge CB Pro Tungstens. The irons have

a hollow head, but due to the heavy tungsten sole weighting the soles are not overly wide. These have a similar feel to Srixon irons. CB Pros have been out of production for about two years, but can be found here and there.

 

The CB Pro stock 5i length is 38.25", slightly longer than average. The lofts: 4i = 22*, with 4* loft increments up through 46* PW. (No odd gapping like many sets)

[mk1065]

 

 

Thought this was an interesting take on this topic!