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Play a big driver, why not big irons


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I play a big driver, ping g410+.  Wondered how many play a large headed driver and play a draw or fade off the tee but when they pull an iron it’s some blade size thing so they can “work” the ball.  

Recently I put G710 in the bag and answered my question for myself.  They feel different for sure but I am quickly adapting to only bringing the putter with me to the green.  

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Driver is played from a lie with the ball sitting on a tee, irons are played from a variety of lie types.

I think that the Ping G710's would be perfect for someone like me.  At 68, I struggle to hit my AP2 PW 105 yards.  If I could get back to a 115 yard PW and a 150 yard 7-iron, I would be in heaven.  We

I play a big driver, ping g410+.  Wondered how many play a large headed driver and play a draw or fade off the tee but when they pull an iron it’s some blade size thing so they can “work” the ball.  

I've played a "MAX" driver for the past 3 years now (G400 Max, Mav Max) and use G410 irons

 

So i'm on board.

 

That being said, most of the season i've used one of the smallest putters that exists (an old deschamps blade that's about the size of a bullseye)

 

 

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Shooting your shot here I see.  I'm not a blade user but I prefer smaller cb's and have no trouble hitting greens...

 

that said its kind of difficult to play a driver these days that isn't 430cc + which amounts to always playing a big driver.. not much of a correlation in my mind, but certainly nothing wrong with playing an SGI iron, just doesn't work for everyone. 

 

Personally I don't like a thick topline and chunky turf interaction

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Personal preference but big irons tend to have more bounce, more offset and wider soles some or all of which may not suit a particular player.

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26 minutes ago, 2Down said:

.  Wondered how many play a large headed driver and play a draw or fade off the tee but when they pull an iron it’s some blade size thing so they can “work” the ball.  

 

 

I played a set of G700 irons for about 70 rounds of golf and found the model to be fun to play, including some awesome shot distances.

The reason I sold the set was because I could not achieve reliable carry distance control.

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I'm also in the play whatever you want camp.  To me, hitting a higher off a tee is different than hitting irons off of turf.  I've played a ton of SGI irons over the years.  I used PINGs from the G2s on, but when they got to the G20, the sole/offset was just too big to my eye.  Confidence plays a big role in role play and the idea that you trust the club to do it's job.  The G25s were MUCH better and I had a set for 5 years.

 

But it's like saying if you hitting bigger clubs, why not get a set of HiBores?  I think every golfer has a line where an iron still needs to look good to play.  The 710s have always appealed to me.  I didn't like the feel/sound of the 700s a friend has, but it sounds like a lot of that was fit with the 710s.  The only other issue is he hits them too long.  He grins about a 150 PW, but he had to rethink his wedges to manage the game inside of that distance.

 

Then again, I am a 14 handicap. I don't 'work the ball'.  I just try to hit straight shots on/near the green and have a bit of consistency with my iron game.

 

 

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54 minutes ago, mantan said:

Then again, I am a 14 handicap. I don't 'work the ball'.  I just try to hit straight shots on/near the green and have a bit of consistency with my iron game.

 

 

1. Hitting a straight shot is much more difficult than hitting a curving shot.  You are absolutely trying to work the ball (and in the most difficult manner possible) by aiming straight.  All "working the ball" means is how much sidespin versus backspin versus ball-speed you impact given a certain swing velocity.  Hitting it straight requires 0.0 sidespin.  That's incredibly hard, much harder than draw/hook spin or cut/slice spin.  The idea that, as a "weaker" player at 14, you should avoid working the ball is nuts.  It would be much easier for you to pick a shot shape and hit it.

 

2. There are huge blades/players cavity backs in existence.  You don't need to go to the 710 to play a big iron.  j40.  j40 dpc.  j15.  i500. Etc...

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My first thought when seeing the thread title was "Tommy Armour Ti 100."

 

🙂

 

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3w:  Cobra King LTD, Matrix 8m3 X, 42"
Hybrid:  TaylorMade Stage 2 Tour, NV105 S or DGS400

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2 hours ago, 2Down said:

Wondered how many play a large headed driver and play a draw or fade off the tee but when they pull an iron it’s some blade size thing so they can “work” the ball.  

 

It depends in part on how defined a playing strategy a person has.

 

What size driver head a person likes often comes from testing and playing experience. I have always preferred big-headed drivers, going back to my persimmon days. Early in golf I played on a lot of "free range" public courses: This meant that larger-headed drivers gave me a bigger margin of error hitting off of chopped up tee boxes.

 

As for working the ball, what does one call it when a golfers play a draw or fade off the tee?

 

Also, one doesn't need a blade iron to work the ball. A golfer who understands basic ball flight rules can hit a basic draw or fade with most any club.

 

For more custom shots, (skill + right clubs + practice time) are necessary. Former college golfers who now have jobs and families often switch from Blades to GI. The reason: they don't have the practice time to keep their swings blade-ready.

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Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Tour Edge CB Pro Tungsten 4i-9i

Wedges:  Calla MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter: Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced)

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They don't really make "big" irons for players.  Most have offset, low CG for high launch, and super strong lofts.

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1 hour ago, pinestreetgolf said:

 

1. Hitting a straight shot is much more difficult than hitting a curving shot.  You are absolutely trying to work the ball (and in the most difficult manner possible) by aiming straight.  All "working the ball" means is how much sidespin versus backspin versus ball-speed you impact given a certain swing velocity.  Hitting it straight requires 0.0 sidespin.  That's incredibly hard, much harder than draw/hook spin or cut/slice spin.  The idea that, as a "weaker" player at 14, you should avoid working the ball is nuts.  It would be much easier for you to pick a shot shape and hit it.

Part of my pre-shot routine is reminding myself, "play the shot you've got, not the perfect one".

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Two different clubs trying to achieve different outcomes.  

 

I'm hitting driver from the exact same lie everytime and trying to hit it as far is I can. 

 

I'm hitting an 8 iron from who knows where (fairway, rough, bunker, a divot, fescue) and want it to go a very specific distance. 

 

Different jobs require different tools.  The versatility of the smaller heads and sole fit a multitude of different conditions better.  

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30 minutes ago, J13 said:

They don't really make "big" irons for players.  Most have offset, low CG for high launch, and super strong lofts.

 

For several years Titeist AP2 was popular and, or, considered a "players iron". These days i200/i210 I think is promoted as "players iron".

Both the AP2 and i200/i210 have large heads.

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1 hour ago, NRJyzr said:

My first thought when seeing the thread title was "Tommy Armour Ti 100."

Yep, same here. I remember when they had those in Sam's club for a while.

 

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The great thing about the driver is that is never needs to touch the ground.... With an iron you can go big in 3 ways.

 

1. Taller clubface. However this will raise the CG and increase spin on lower strikes. Sometimes a designed method like in a Hi Toe wedge, but probably not what you want in a 6 iron. Lower and spinnier is not what most people want. 

 

2. Wider sole. This moves the CG back to increase MOI, but too wide and you are going to have turf interaction problems. There's a reason why you play an 8 iron and not a 15 wood. An iron is much more versatile from a variety of lies.

 

3. Longer blade width. from heel to toe. Might do better on massive mishits, but effectively you are reducing mass behind the center of the ball. Aerodyanmics and club head speed will be worse. Ball speed on a center or near center strike will be worse. And again looking at turf interaction issues, especially from bad lies. 

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1 hour ago, Doyouevenblade said:

Two different clubs trying to achieve different outcomes.  

 

I'm hitting driver from the exact same lie everytime and trying to hit it as far is I can. 

 

I'm hitting an 8 iron from who knows where (fairway, rough, bunker, a divot, fescue) and want it to go a very specific distance. 

 

Different jobs require different tools.  The versatility of the smaller heads and sole fit a multitude of different conditions better.  

 

At the risk of an off-topic argument, this is (IMO) why a lot of amateurs struggle, especially under pressure.

 

You should know the distance to all the hazards off the tee and be hitting your driver a specific distance.  If the trouble starts on the right at 245, its usually pretty dumb to try to hit it your normal 260 but have half the fairway.  Just pick a club (or swing) that comes up short.  Driver should never just be hit "as far as possible" unless the hole is insanely wide open and long.

 

You want a club to go a specific distance on a specific shot.  155 from fairway, rough, bunker, divot, fescue (your words) should almost all require different clubs not just "8 iron".

 

Don't be the "driver is as far as possible, every yardage is a certain iron, I always shoot 88" guy.

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It all depends on your ball striking. If your consistent, the big headed iron offers nothing, and actually will be a disadvantage to a traditional  sized club. The reason drivers are big even for good strikers, is it allows the good striker to swing a little harder-since it is a distance club, and not have fear of being punished too much when mishit.

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All comes down to what level your game is at and what you are willing to look down at.  Always played GI irons but recently split my iron set to include players clubs at the bottom end and much prefer the look and turf interaction.  Depends on what you like for your game I guess.  Of course I have a friend who plays all hybrid irons. They look ugly, but he hits them great and enjoys them so again it's what you can stomach to look at.

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PLAYING BIG equipment... I just realized I've gone really BIG.. Not only BIG with the irons, but also with the putter....  Has actually happen by circumstance. 

 

Driver         just like all of us -  460cc - Ping 410

 

Irons, by circumstance. Was playing the Titleist T200s. long from heal to toe but wouldn't classify as BIG. Short date with TM 790TI (titanium)..  Worst irons I've ever owned. And I've probably had 35 sets of irons in my life.  Club Champion gave me the 30 day playability return. So had to get $2600.00 dollars worth. Demo'ed the Epon 706's. They are BIG every way; tall, long & FAT sole. Loved my demo sessions with them. Feel, distance, height and ALL the other numbers. What the heck, if they don't work Ill see um on Ebay.  One month in and I'm playing my best iron game in the last 10 plus years. 

 

Putter, LAB GOLF --  Direct Force 2.1 ----     I'll just say, it looks like a space ship has landed on the green. I think its gonna be around for awhile. !!!! ???

 

I might need a BIGGER golf bag.       FOREEEE

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I hear people talk about turf interaction all the time and how a smaller thin soled iron is superior.   Gotta wonder.  I’ve never thought, imagining a shot with the g710 in hand, damn these just won’t do that.  Anyway having fun is the thing isn’t it and winning a bet it just gravy (I’ve been having a bit more gravy recently).

Ping 9° G410+ tensi orange s
Ping 3 Wood G410+ tour 75 shaft s.  
Ping 5 wood G410 Alta s
Adams 9031 23° Mitsubishi diamana 
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1 hour ago, 2Down said:

I hear people talk about turf interaction all the time and how a smaller thin soled iron is superior.   Gotta wonder.  I’ve never thought, imagining a shot with the g710 in hand, damn these just won’t do that.  Anyway having fun is the thing isn’t it and winning a bet it just gravy (I’ve been having a bit more gravy recently).

I don't think anybody is saying certain sole designs are superior, but all of them definitely have a bonus and malus for different types of swing planes and impact positions. It's more about finding which combination suits your particular needs the best.

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It is probable as the OP suggests that there are large numbers of folks who hit the ball so poorly with compact clubs that the comparatively random and inconsistent result they get with “big” irons is an improvement.  They have a choice of learning to hit the ball better or playing with big clubs, the main benefit of which is not their bigness per se but their ability to get the ball up when the ball is hit fat.  I read recently that upwards of 90 % of golfers hit the ground first.

 

I wonder though why so many of them seem inclined to brag about it.

 

 

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