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Buying old irons..... and playing them...


drvrwdge
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If you are not worried about the number stamped on the bottom and already play blades of small cb's honeslty I don't know what the difference could be.

 

I play a small cheap blade that has virtually the same specs of some small cb's I bought 15 years ago, except the iron numbers have changed from 3-p to 4-g.

 

BTW, I always like Hogan's irons, I just couldn't afford the better forged cb that I always preferred. I once did have Hogan Edges with the Apex 4 shaft for a while but the offset was just too much, plus they were really worn.

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Very nice find.  All my irons are old from my 1971 Wilson Staff Button Backs to my 2002 Tommy Armour Oversize Plus and everything else in between.  I prefer buying old, used irons because of price (obviously) and iron tech hasn't really changed in decades.  Loft for loft, length for length, shaft for shaft, the iron will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless of when it was made.  None of my irons are any longer than the other but there is a certain level of forgiveness for sure (with my 71' Button Backs being the least forgiving to my 1997 Bertha Golds being the most).

Edited by cgasucks
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10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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Pretty sure I played most of 2016-2017 with circa 1990 Maxfli Revolutions and Aussie blades or some combo of the two. Got sick of chasing the latest and greatest. But then again, I'm pretty casual compared to most here. 

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Cobra King Ltd, Speeder TS 6.2
Callaway BBA 816, Accra CS1 80
Adams A12, Diamana Thump
TM TP MC/MB, KBS Tour 
Vokey 254.10, V-Grind 60*, DG S400
Ping Anser TR

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1 minute ago, Puppetmaster said:

Pretty sure I played most of 2016-2017 with circa 1990 Maxfli Revolutions and Aussie blades or some combo of the two. Got sick of chasing the latest and greatest. But then again, I'm pretty casual compared to most here. 

Very nice set.  I have a set of the Black Dots myself.  Would love to have a set of those Aussie Blades (the ones that are cast out of nickel).

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10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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6 minutes ago, cgasucks said:

Very nice set.  I have a set of the Black Dots myself.  Would love to have a set of those Aussie Blades (the ones that are cast out of nickel).

 

You will love them if you like the Blacks. I feel like you and I come out of the woodwork whenever there is a Maxfli discussion 🙂 

 

Found it: May 2017 was the Aussie Blades, but I definitely played most of that year with Revolutions, which I've owned brand new since 2000. Sorry, not 1990 lol. 

https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/381970-puppetmaster-witb-course-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=18554188 

 

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Cobra King Ltd, Speeder TS 6.2
Callaway BBA 816, Accra CS1 80
Adams A12, Diamana Thump
TM TP MC/MB, KBS Tour 
Vokey 254.10, V-Grind 60*, DG S400
Ping Anser TR

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2 minutes ago, drvrwdge said:

Man I had the Aussie blades with some sort of red graphite shaft back in the mid/late 90’s. What a great set. Those and the Ram Lazer FX’s. Such fond memories ha

 

And I remember not being able to hit those Rams worth a damn at the time lol. 

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Cobra King Ltd, Speeder TS 6.2
Callaway BBA 816, Accra CS1 80
Adams A12, Diamana Thump
TM TP MC/MB, KBS Tour 
Vokey 254.10, V-Grind 60*, DG S400
Ping Anser TR

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I blame age for my sets...Tommy Armor 845's...Maxfli Black Dot Revolutions....Titleist 735's & 2007 X-forged that were Korean issue.  Thinking I might part with the X-forged heads, this is the set that I tend to play the least.  All I can say is that I am happy with how these perform for me.  I can rely on the distance of every iron in the set.  By the way, I have two 2 irons that I use with the 3-PW iron sets.  The 2 irons are Ping Eye 2, one is a BeCu head.

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Awesome set Op.  that happens to be my exact spec as well !  I’d play those in a second. 

Epic Speed triple diamond 8.7 TB70 TX

TM 300 mini 13.5 Tensei CK blue 80TX 

TM sim max 18 Aldila rogue proto 85TX 

callaway xforged UT 21* ventus blue 9x 

Titleist T100 4-pw  MMT 125 TX 

Edel  SMS 54 58 MMT 125 TX 

Cameron GSS 009  1.5 , sound slot , tungsten sole weights , head speed shaft. 

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I'm not knocking them but I think it depends on how old you're talking. Lofts aside, many clubs from 25 years ago, or older, didn't have any bounce, had sharp leading edges and flat soles.

 

That's all cool. Great golf has been played with a lot older. I have a set of 1980 Staffs and 90's Ping Eye 2+. Love em.  But there are things incorporated into new(er) designs that really do help.

Edited by rufus mangler

Taylormade 16 M2 9.5º (Tensei Orange 65R)

Taylormade 17 M1 HL3 17º (Kuro Kage 70S)

Taylormade 05 FCT Rescue 21º (set to 20º) (Aldila RIP 85S)

Taylormade 05 FCT Rescue 23.5º (set to 24º) (Aldila RIP 65S)

PING G25 5-SW (PING CFS S)

Titleist Vokey SM6 60.12 K

Acushnet Bullseye WFLO or Odyssey WHP #7

No glove and Lamkin Crossline Blacks

Hndp 6

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Nothing wrong with living in the past.

 

I cycle through older sets, I usually don't spend more than $200 on iron sets, and often do not see benefits to "latest and greatest". I'll give new sets a demo spin at the range or shop, but usually just go back to playing the oldies I have at home.

 

Gaming a beat to death set of 2007 X Forged now, probably the "newest" set I have bought in years..

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23 hours ago, weavej1 said:

Buying the Hogan’s was way less risky than buying those Crocs.  What was the thought process there?!?


Jerry Garcia eat your heart out! 

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RomaRo 435LX 10*-Quadra FEX 65SX 

PRGR Egg HD 14.5*-Fubuki 75S 3W
PRGR EGG 20* - M-43S 7 wood

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Miura PP9003SN 5-G - Modus 125S 

Miura HB12 @ 55* - Modus 125 W

2015 PM Grind 60* - KBS Tour V

Axis1 Rose - Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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On 10/29/2020 at 2:57 PM, weavej1 said:

Buying the Hogan’s was way less risky than buying those Crocs.  What was the thought process there?!?

Honestly I was a “never-crocer” my whole life. Absolutely despised them l, ridiculed those that wore them etc but took a leap of faith and honestly they’re probably the most comfortable thing I’ve ever put on my feet. Ha plus they’re trending 😂😂😂

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Stay Tuned...

 

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On 10/28/2020 at 4:48 PM, drvrwdge said:

Man I had the Aussie blades with some sort of red graphite shaft back in the mid/late 90’s. What a great set. Those and the Ram Lazer FX’s. Such fond memories ha

Wow...Those Ram Lazer FX's....talk about bringing back some great memories (and dating ourselves)!  What a great set of irons.  I kind of started a post like this a few weeks ago.  My point was, in the cb & blade heads, I don't think a lot has changed in a while (of course a little bounce here, a rounded edge there-maybe even some added weight to "help").  I just feel like tech in those types of irons is either maxed out or close to it.  

 

I currently have a set of J33 combo irons, MP 4's (MP 54-5 iron) and Nike Vapor Pro Combo irons...all are fantastic irons and feel great, with more traditional lofts.  And on the lofts - I don't play golf for a living so I'm not too caught up in distance...I just play the right set of tees.  I don't need to hit a 7 iron 215 yards (would be super cool I'm guessing).   I personally just can't see paying over $1K on a set of irons that are no better than what I already have.  Although, I do love looking!!

 

Great thread...hit them well everyone!

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On 10/28/2020 at 3:14 PM, chipa said:

If you are not worried about the number stamped on the bottom and already play blades of small cb's honeslty I don't know what the difference could be.

 

Swing speed.  If you swing pretty fast you won't notice any difference at all.  But somebody with an 85 mph driver speed can't gap 4, 5 and 6 irons 4* apart.  They can't hit them with enough spin to get them off the ground enough to gap well.  This is the point of strong lofts.  If you put a 5-6* gap between 9-PW-GW you can replace those degrees in between the 4-5-6 so that slow swing speed players actually have a ten yard gap between their four and five irons (instead of two clubs that hit lines drives a ways then roll forever).  Now, there is some marketing in there too, but the whole "strong lofts are only marketing!" is just as wrong.  For low swing speed players who refuse to play hybrids (I swing my driver 108-111, and I play hybrid through 5 iron, so I have no idea why people swinging 95 are playing forged 4 irons for the "feel" but that is another thread) gapping like this produces consistent distance between irons.

 

I don't think my 2013/14 j40s are "old" yet (maybe?) but they are the best irons ever made IMO.  Kuchar bags a similar set today, eschewing all of Bridgestone's newer irons.  He also bags a bunch of hybrids, because he has a low swing speed (relatively speaking).

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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7 hours ago, pinestreetgolf said:

 

Swing speed.  If you swing pretty fast you won't notice any difference at all.  But somebody with an 85 mph driver speed can't gap 4, 5 and 6 irons 4* apart.  They can't hit them with enough spin to get them off the ground enough to gap well.  This is the point of strong lofts.  If you put a 5-6* gap between 9-PW-GW you can replace those degrees in between the 4-5-6 so that slow swing speed players actually have a ten yard gap between their four and five irons (instead of two clubs that hit lines drives a ways then roll forever).  Now, there is some marketing in there too, but the whole "strong lofts are only marketing!" is just as wrong.  For low swing speed players who refuse to play hybrids (I swing my driver 108-111, and I play hybrid through 5 iron, so I have no idea why people swinging 95 are playing forged 4 irons for the "feel" but that is another thread) gapping like this produces consistent distance between irons.

 

I don't think my 2013/14 j40s are "old" yet (maybe?) but they are the best irons ever made IMO.  Kuchar bags a similar set today, eschewing all of Bridgestone's newer irons.  He also bags a bunch of hybrids, because he has a low swing speed (relatively speaking).

 

I actually did some calcs of the yardage distances between standard loft irons and strong ones like cobra with min and max values and the difference was a lot less than many are claiming. At the end of the day a 3 iron and a 5 iron with the same loft will hit the ball more or less the same difference because it is mostly a function of swing speed and loft more than anything.  This is a marketing ploy nothing more started by Callaway and Cobra about 20 years ago and a lot of people still haven't caught on that they are hitting the ball significantly farther with the same lofts and shaft lengths.

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19 hours ago, chipa said:

 

I actually did some calcs of the yardage distances between standard loft irons and strong ones like cobra with min and max values and the difference was a lot less than many are claiming. At the end of the day a 3 iron and a 5 iron with the same loft will hit the ball more or less the same difference because it is mostly a function of swing speed and loft more than anything.  This is a marketing ploy nothing more started by Callaway and Cobra about 20 years ago and a lot of people still haven't caught on that they are hitting the ball significantly farther with the same lofts and shaft lengths.

 

What do you mean by you "actually did some calcs" ?  What did you calculate?

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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14 minutes ago, pinestreetgolf said:

 

What do you mean by you "actually did some calcs" ?  What did you calculate?

 

I estimated a range of distance from say the 4 iron to the PW and then calculated a prorated distance differential between each club. If I remember right assuming a standard of 10 yards between club I think I came up with 8 point something difference with the distance irons.

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44 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

I estimated a range of distance from say the 4 iron to the PW and then calculated a prorated distance differential between each club. If I remember right assuming a standard of 10 yards between club I think I came up with 8 point something difference with the distance irons.

 

What is a prorated distance differential? I'm interested any new information but I'm not sure what you're saying here.

Edited by pinestreetgolf

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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