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It is too difficult change iron shafts by yourself?


PanchiCab

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If it's the wrong forum, please let my know 

 

I've always change my own grips and even change a couple putter shafts but never tried a whole set of irons before and i want to know if i'm missing something here before i messed up

 

A few weeks ago i've found my old mp53 that i used when i was a junior, take them to the course and felt the love again, only problem is the shafts were too loose for my current swing, they had DG XP 95 Stiff +.5" so i'm thinking about swapping shafts with my current i200 Nippon 120 x +.5"

 

In theory, i supposed it shouldn't be too difficult to exchange shafts, same lenght, same tip size .355, just torched, twist until the epoxy breaks, clean hosel, new ferrulles, epoxy and thats it, at least it looks that simple on youtube haha 

 

A bit concern about the shaft weight difference cause i don't have a sw scale and never used one

 

I'm missing something here? 

 

Thanks

Frank

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I agree with @VNutz it's not difficult to switch out shafts.  However, it's easy to mess up so practice on clubs that you don't regularly play.

 

Lots of people build their own clubs as a hobby and look to save money.  Lots of things to consider too, making a club feel right for play.  That's reason I use someone that knows what they're doing.  Club building hasn't made my hobby list... LOL

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22 minutes ago, Pepperturbo said:

I agree with @VNutz it's not difficult to switch out shafts.  However, it's easy to mess up so practice on clubs that you don't regularly play.

 

Lots of people build their own clubs as a hobby and look to save money.  Lots of things to consider too, making a club feel right for play.  That's reason I use someone that knows what they're doing.  Club building hasn't made my hobby list... LOL

Thanks for the reply, money it's a big issue cause i'm in south america and there's only 1 pro shop in my area and they will charge me 15 bucks per iron just to swap shafts! + the cost of the ferrulles, it's insane 

 

A heavier shaft should get the sw higher or lower? there's 25gr xp95 vs modus 120

 

 

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Not a lot you can mess up with steal shafts and irons. You can use epoxy from a hardware store. 

Pulling graphite is a different story. 

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TM Sim2 3 wood Tour AD DI 7x
TM Sim 5 wood Ventus Blue Velocore 8x
Mizuno JPX 923 Modus 120x 
Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide
Vokeys SM9 56,60
 

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2 hours ago, PanchiCab said:

Thanks for the reply, money it's a big issue cause i'm in south america and there's only 1 pro shop in my area and they will charge me 15 bucks per iron just to swap shafts! + the cost of the ferrulles, it's insane 

 

A heavier shaft should get the sw higher or lower? there's 25gr xp95 vs modus 120

 

 

Heavier shaft should give you a heavier swing weight all other things being equal. 9g of shaft weight will usually equal 1 SW point. This does assume that the two shafts have similar balance points and lengths. Modus shafts are pretty tip heavy, not sure about the 95xp.

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2 hours ago, PanchiCab said:

Thanks for the reply, money it's a big issue cause i'm in south america and there's only 1 pro shop in my area and they will charge me 15 bucks per iron just to swap shafts! + the cost of the ferrulles, it's insane 

 

A heavier shaft should get the sw higher or lower? there's 25gr xp95 vs modus 120

 

 

Heavier shaft will increase swingweight. SW is a measure of balance around a fulcrum that is 14 inches below the butt of the grip, and the shaft balance point is close to the shaft midpoint (e.g. 1/2 of 36 inches on a 6 iron will be on the head side of that fulcrum, bottom of bore to ground is typically 1.25 inches, so 37.25 inch club length).

 

Be aware, when switching shafts into different heads, that there is some variation in head weights just from component tolerances. You will need tip weights to compensate for this. Get an accurate scale, e.g. jewellery scale, that measures in grams to help to get the head + tip weights to 7g steps between clubs. 

 

When you get a swingweight machine you can adjust more accurately to a particular swingweight.

 

Also, make sure that you get the right kind of epoxy. It needs to have high shear strength (> 3,000 psi), yet be shock and vibration resistant and break down in the right temperature range. 

 

 

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I would switch shafts in one club, then take it and another iron to the shop and ask to check sw on both. Then you'll know if any sw adjustments must be made. It's not a given that the heavier shaft will produce a higher sw. It will definitely produce an overall heavier club. Ping used to make a very simple, accurate and inexpensive sw scale. Also measured overall weight. Ebay perhaps.

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The biggest concern I would have would be the lengths. If you ordered both from factory +1/2” they are not the same length. Mizuno only bad 1/4” progression from w-9 and Ping has 1/2” throughout. Without a swingweight scale and a club ruler this gets tricky. Your best bet would be to compare the pulled shafts and see what length differences are there. 1/4” difference doesn’t sound like a lot but it can mess with your swingweight progression if one club is the same length in both sets but every other club is 1/4” longer. 
 

 

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Just reiterating what others have said, start slow and try one out and see how it goes. But make sure you clean the hosel and shaft to remove all of the old epoxy. The ferrules can sometimes be a little tricky so might be a good idea to watch some videos on that. Good luck and keep us informed on your progress!

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Someone already raised a good point about the length - different manufacturers measure in different ways. For example some might measure with the grip on vs some that do it grip off. Also lie angle measuring static vs dynamic.

 

So your +0.5" shafts may be different - along with the insertion depths of the iron heads which could be slightly different also.

 

Additionally - I would at least make an attempt to get swingweight somewhat consistent in the way you measure it - you can use an online calculator which could be beneficial. You may find you like the Mizuno's because they were built nicely to begin with without the weights being all over the place (some people are sensitive to it - others it makes no difference). The key is making sure whatever method you use you apply it to your build rather than just sticking old parts into new ones blindly.

 

You mention $15 per club plus ferrule cost is high but that person hopefully is building them somewhat accurately which takes time and money to setup correctly.

 

The process of putting a shaft in a head is easy - it's all the details that make up the art.

 

 

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As most of the posts above, it's abit intimidating but pretty simple once you get going. If you have OCD and don't like lead tape then it becomes abit more complicated as you have to calculate swingweight before assembly to allow for fitting tip weights during the install. If you are happy to add abit of lead tape after it makes if far easier as you can do all the tinkering after fitting the shafts and grips.

 

I use this online calculator for a swingweight tool and then tweak each club to my personal feel if it doesn't quite feel right for whatever reason. I've not checked against a proper swingweight machine but it works well for me to at least ensure club to club consistency;

 

http://golf.okrasa.eu/clubs/swingweight-en/sw-measure/

 

(I've rigged up a little balance point using a few sanding blocks, a pen and a tape measure....really basic!)

 

The big mistakes that most seem to make are with the shaft length, caused by differences of bottom of bore to ground measurements between club heads and then the confusion about working out what is 'standard' ....there isn't a standard! I'd suggest deciding a set length you're happy with from a previous set and working to that. Decide what the length is with and without the grip on so you know when you measure what you're getting as the final length whatever your chosen measurement method is. Even though I guess ideally you'd pre-cut and weigh all the component parts before assembling to keep a check on expected swingweight etc don't be afraid to epoxy and then butt cut the shaft after to ensure length is correct. In conjunction with this when assembling the shaft make sure you dry fit and check the lengths work before gluing and also confirm where the hosel/ferrule should fit upto on the shaft to make sure when you glue the two together the shaft is fully inserted, the epoxy causing a air pocket or a tight ferrule can prevent the shaft fully inserting when you glue and cause issues with overall length or effect the performance of the shaft. I mark the shaft with a sharpie to show where the ferrule should sit with the shaft fully inserted which cleans off with abit of acetone easily and if the ferrule is tight abit of heat from a hair dryer, heat gun, kettle or even a kitchen hob (electric, gas probably too much!) helps soften it so you can move it....do this before gluing! Even to someone who has put together a lot of clubs, this can happen. A simple plumbers pipe cutter works on steel shafts on the butt, although tips on parrellel tip shafts need a cut-off saw of some sort.

 

Also heavier shafts don't automatically mean a heavier swingweight, yes the static weight will obviously go up but if moving to a completely different model or manufacturer the shaft balance point can easily change slightly from model to model. Also small differences in club length effect the swingweight. Some people are more sensitive to static weight that swingweight. If you aren't shy of lead tape the only real swing weight issue you may come across is if you either play over length irons which may mean the swingweights are very high due to existing headweight or you prefer a really light swingweight. It's hard to lower swingweight but very easy to raise it with some lead tape.

 

Go for it and enjoy, it's really satisfying to play something you've put together yourself!

 

Edited by Skipperation
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14 hours ago, PanchiCab said:

A heavier shaft should get the sw higher or lower? there's 25gr xp95 vs modus 120

 

Others have told you that a heavier shaft means a heavier swing weight all things being equal.  Unfortunately all things are rarely equal in that context.  The shaft designers are well aware of the contribution of the shaft to the swing weight and usually can manipulate the shaft balance point to compensate for the changes in static weight.  So swing weight usually doesn't change a lot if the lengths are managed correctly.

 

However what's more important is that as the total club weight changes - the best fit for a swing weight value can also change.  e.g. just because D2 might have been a good fit with the 95 gm shaft doesn't mean it will also be a good fit with the 130 gm shaft.  So when changing shafts it's usually a good idea to figure out the best head weight on the range with some lead tape.  Do it for the 6i or 7i then take it back to the shop and measure it and use that value for the rest of the set.

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20 hours ago, PanchiCab said:

Thanks for the reply, money it's a big issue cause i'm in south america and there's only 1 pro shop in my area and they will charge me 15 bucks per iron just to swap shafts! + the cost of the ferrulles, it's insane 

 

A heavier shaft should get the sw higher or lower? there's 25gr xp95 vs modus 120

 

 

I am in California and my guy charges me (regular customer) $10 while charging the general public $20 per club.   Fancy Ferrules can cost here too.  I just use stock.

 

Unless really light, shaft weight doesn't make a big different in SW.  Swing weight changes when tampering with head weight via lead tape, shaft length, shaft profile, shaft weight, and grip weigh.  For example, I went from 95g to 125g and settled on 115g PX with TV Align standard with +3, and SW change was negligible, around D2, which for Titleist 620 heads and PX shaft is common.

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Lots of good advice so far.  You don't have to be a mechanic to change shafts, attention to detail will be more important if anything, especially when it comes to turning ferrules.  Sounds like you have the basic equipment if you've changed a putter shaft, but if you definitely can't get a swingweight scale (although I highly recommend one) I also recommend just dropping by the shop to have them check them.  They shouldn't charge for that since it takes to seconds, just write them down and ballpark about how much weight you'd need to add with lead tape or tip weights.  If you don't want to dive straight in, maybe do a few test runs on old wedges or clubs from a thrift store.

For ferrules, you really don't need nice equipment.  It would certainly make it faster, but I have no problem turning ferrules with a vise, sandpaper, steel wool, acetone, and paper towels.  Technique will be key, thank god for Youtube...buena suerte!

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On 11/11/2020 at 1:38 PM, PanchiCab said:

If it's the wrong forum, please let my know 

 

I've always change my own grips and even change a couple putter shafts but never tried a whole set of irons before and i want to know if i'm missing something here before i messed up

 

A few weeks ago i've found my old mp53 that i used when i was a junior, take them to the course and felt the love again, only problem is the shafts were too loose for my current swing, they had DG XP 95 Stiff +.5" so i'm thinking about swapping shafts with my current i200 Nippon 120 x +.5"

 

In theory, i supposed it shouldn't be too difficult to exchange shafts, same lenght, same tip size .355, just torched, twist until the epoxy breaks, clean hosel, new ferrulles, epoxy and thats it, at least it looks that simple on youtube haha 

 

A bit concern about the shaft weight difference cause i don't have a sw scale and never used one

 

I'm missing something here? 

 

Thanks

Frank

Just check if the shafts are taper or parallel 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys

A little update, it took me a while cause i've been recovered from a wrist injury last couple of months but everthing is fine now

 

Want to thank everyone for the replies and the advice, this little proyect was fun, simple and cheaper than expected, even saved the ferrulles (used a regular lighter to heat them a bit and then they end up loose but maintain form)

 

In the pic you can see everything that i've used (a bit messy) and will update tomorrow with the finish set, tonight i'll let the epoxy rest, then regrip tomorrow

 

20210119_205013.jpg

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