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Driving iron shaft, iron or graphite


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I play the HMB 3 as a utility iron. I have a Mitsubishi MMT graphite shaft in it. For me, it makes it a little more versatile. I play it a little longer than I would if it were steel. It’s knocked som

There is no benefit to graphite - other than the ability to absorb much more of the shock at impact than steel.   Everything else depends on the specs of the shaft you choose, not the materi

Just now, boxerdoc said:

I have a mizuno no 20 hmb 2 iron that has steel shaft matching my set, what gains or benefits, if any, have you seen by going to graphite?


I play the HMB 3 as a utility iron. I have a Mitsubishi MMT graphite shaft in it. For me, it makes it a little more versatile. I play it a little longer than I would if it were steel. It’s knocked some spin off of it while launching a bit higher. I hit it about 5-10 yards longer than when I had an $-Taper in it. I primarily use it off of the tee, but it flights just fine off of the fairway. 

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Ping G410 LST 9* @ 7.5* / Fujikura Ventus Black 7x

TaylorMade SIM 19* @ 17.5* / Fujikura Ventus Black 8x

Mizuno MP-20 HMB 3 (19*)  / Mitsubishi MMT UT 105tx

Mizuno CLK 4 (22*) / Fujikura Ventus Black 10tx

Mizuno MP-20 MMC (5-7) / Testing

Mizuno MP-20 MB (8-PW) / Testing

Callaway MD5 Jaws 50-12w / Testing

Callaway MD5 Jaws 54-12x @ 55-13 / True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Callaway MD5 Jaws 60-8w / True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2.5 & Fastback 1.5

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I originally had a C-Taper 130X to match my iron set in my Mp 18 mmc fli hi, Switched to the Tensei CK Pro White 90 in a TX flex. The flight and spin to me is identical but I am 5 yards longer with it. That's probably a combination of the fact that A. The shaft is lighter and B. I had to add a half inch to keep the swing weight up. So longer and lighter club was worth a handful of yards. Dispersion about the same. 

 

The swing weight is the big thing to take into account. A graphite hybrid shaft is going to be 20-40 grams lighter than your iron shaft and it will also have a higher balance point. My driving iron at 40" with a C-Taper 130X came in at D6. Now with the Tensei 90 White TX it's D2 at 40.5". If I were to keep it the same length as before it would've been C9. So depending on desired length you may need to add weight to the head. 

 

Knowing what I know now on my next driving iron I will get a standard weight head rather than a b weight head even though I play everything +1". 

Titleist TS3 Driver 9.5* Diamana D+ LTD 60 TX
Titleist TS3 Fairway 16.5* Diamana D+ LTD 70 TX
Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 3 Tensei CK Pro White 90 TX
Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 4-5 KBS Tour C-Taper X
Mizuno MP 18 SC 6-9 KBS Tour C-Taper X
Mizuno T20 Raw 46*, 51*, 56* & 61* KBS Tour C-Taper X
SeeMore Nashville z3c Black Mallet
Bridgestone Tour B XS

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I have found the benefits of a graphite shaft over steel for driving irons to be that they do tend to launch a bit higher increasing carry distance while keeping spin about the same as steel shafts.  I think it's imperative to keep launch high and spin low with driving irons in order to get as much carry distance as possible while keeping spin optimal to prevent ballooning.  This usually means more overall distance as well IMO.  Also graphite shafts have more tech/exotic materials to enhance feel over steel shafts which tend to be harsher feeling.  Lastly, graphite shafts dampen vibration as well and who wouldn't want that?   

Edited by phizzy30

TM SIM MAX 9* w/Ventus Black 7x

TM SIM 15* w/Ventus Blue 8x

TM Tour Issue Deep Face Ghost Proto 2 HB  w/Thump 105x

Vega VDC-01 4-PW w/Recoil Proto 125 F5

54* Miura HB w/KBS 610 S+

58* Miura w/KBS Tour Black

Scotty Cameron Newport 1

Snell MTB-X

 

 

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22 hours ago, boxerdoc said:

I have a mizuno no 20 hmb 2 iron that has steel shaft matching my set, what gains or benefits, if any, have you seen by going to graphite?

 

There is no benefit to graphite - other than the ability to absorb much more of the shock at impact than steel.

 

Everything else depends on the specs of the shaft you choose, not the material.  Specifically what's the weight and the stiffness profile of the particular model shaft you choose.

 

Now, that being said, once you get below about 80-90 gm, the only choices tend to be graphite since they can get them lighter without loosing stiffness like what happens with steel.

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13 hours ago, ProjectX said:

I originally had a C-Taper 130X to match my iron set in my Mp 18 mmc fli hi, Switched to the Tensei CK Pro White 90 in a TX flex. The flight and spin to me is identical but I am 5 yards longer with it. That's probably a combination of the fact that A. The shaft is lighter and B. I had to add a half inch to keep the swing weight up. So longer and lighter club was worth a handful of yards. Dispersion about the same. 

 

The swing weight is the big thing to take into account. A graphite hybrid shaft is going to be 20-40 grams lighter than your iron shaft and it will also have a higher balance point. My driving iron at 40" with a C-Taper 130X came in at D6. Now with the Tensei 90 White TX it's D2 at 40.5". If I were to keep it the same length as before it would've been C9. So depending on desired length you may need to add weight to the head. 

 

Knowing what I know now on my next driving iron I will get a standard weight head rather than a b weight head even though I play everything +1". 

How do you like the tense I pro white? I loved the orange in my 3 wood a while back but the 2 iron I’m looking at has the pro white. I’m a high spin high launch player.

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11 hours ago, boxerdoc said:

How do you like the tense I pro white? I loved the orange in my 3 wood a while back but the 2 iron I’m looking at has the pro white. I’m a high spin high launch player.

Should be fairly similar to the pro orange you are used to, it's just not "counter balanced" although still more "counter balanced" than a steel iron shaft. That's why it's so much lighter in swingweight than what I normally play. Otherwise it still has a little more wiggle in it than I like. Mine is tipped 1", wish I went 2". What feels boardy to most feels good to me so I might not be the best person to gauge off of.

Titleist TS3 Driver 9.5* Diamana D+ LTD 60 TX
Titleist TS3 Fairway 16.5* Diamana D+ LTD 70 TX
Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 3 Tensei CK Pro White 90 TX
Mizuno MP 18 MMC Fli-Hi 4-5 KBS Tour C-Taper X
Mizuno MP 18 SC 6-9 KBS Tour C-Taper X
Mizuno T20 Raw 46*, 51*, 56* & 61* KBS Tour C-Taper X
SeeMore Nashville z3c Black Mallet
Bridgestone Tour B XS

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I'm actually a little different than most posts here. I currently have a Recoil 125 Proto in my 3 iron, which I use primarily like a driving iron, and I'm not sold on it yet. I wanted to make the switch after the season (WI) so that I can use it all winter in sim league to see how I feel about it. I agree that I have picked up a little bit of distance that is appreciated, BUT, so far my dispersion has been less than ideal. I'm nowhere near giving up on it yet, but if I cannot learn the club so I feel great about hitting it off a teebox on a tight fairway (otherwise why not just hit driver), I may go back to a $-Taper.

 

As a side note, I also used the Steelfiber FC115 brief stint but the ball flight was too high for my liking.

Callaway Mavrik SZ 9* (Green Dot) : Tensei PO V3 70TX

Callaway Mavrik SZ 16.5* : Tour AD DI 80X 

Callaway Super Hybrid 20* (N/-1) : Tour AD DI 95X 

TM P790 3i : Recoil Proto 125 F5

TM P790 4-PW : $-Taper 130X Black Nickel

Cleveland CG16 50.10, TM Hi-Toe Raw 60.09 : DG S400

TM Spider X Copper/White 35.25"

TM TP5x

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