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Hard-stepping Nippon 1050


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Most commonly when hard stepping you use the same shaft (PW shaft) for the PW.   With the shorter playing length and slower swing speeds, the vast majority of people wont notice the difference in the

Yes

Yes, should be fine with 1/2" tipping.

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12 hours ago, ChristianR said:

Hi guys,

I was thinking to hard-step my regular set, using 1050 shafts, but once used the PW 35" (uncut lenght) on the 9 iron, what to use for the PW itself? 35" is the shorter length for 1050 as per Nippon catalog.

Could be an idea to use a soft-stepped stiff shaft?

 

Most commonly when hard stepping you use the same shaft (PW shaft) for the PW.   With the shorter playing length and slower swing speeds, the vast majority of people wont notice the difference in the short end of the set.

 

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13 hours ago, ChristianR said:

Hi guys,

I was thinking to hard-step my regular set, using 1050 shafts, but once used the PW 35" (uncut lenght) on the 9 iron, what to use for the PW itself? 35" is the shorter length for 1050 as per Nippon catalog.

Could be an idea to use a soft-stepped stiff shaft?


If the shafts is pulls, be aware of that you go 1/2" shorter when hard stepping, and also that if we start from new uncut shaft, you gain a little shaft weight equal to the weight of 0.5" inch

Insted of hard stepping who makes a open slot at the top (your PW), we can "tiger step" the whole set who is tip trim of taper tip shafts. Like hard stepping we go shorter, but we avoid the open slot at the PW, and we avoid the weight gain. Se the chart below for more details.

image.png.c285d3720af79424035bc581e84f42f5.png
 

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22 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:


If the shafts is pulls, be aware of that you go 1/2" shorter when hard stepping, and also that if we start from new uncut shaft, you gain a little shaft weight equal to the weight of 0.5" inch

Insted of hard stepping who makes a open slot at the top (your PW), we can "tiger step" the whole set who is tip trim of taper tip shafts. Like hard stepping we go shorter, but we avoid the open slot at the PW, and we avoid the weight gain. Se the chart below for more details.

image.png.c285d3720af79424035bc581e84f42f5.png
 

 

Not pulled, I'll buy new shafts.

Mine are parallel .370 anyway, not sure if that can be applied too.

Thanks.

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20 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:


.370 dont move in weight, so just tip trim them all 0.5" more than standard if HS1 is target

 

I don't think those Nippons are available as single length parallel.  So if they really are parallel, they are most likely discrete length parallel.

Edited by Stuart_G
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15 minutes ago, Thayneil said:

Parrallel are available but still constant weight and discrete lenghthd

 

Exactly, so is there any difference? Can they be hard-stepped moving shafts or I have to tip trim?

I mean, should I just tip trim them 0,5" ? In this case I have also fixed the missing shaft for PW.

Edited by ChristianR
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I would hard step up to the.9 then tip trim for the wedge.

Howards table shows the tip would be 0.365 some reaming maybe required.

 

You could also buy a stiff 8 iron shaft for the wedge.

 

I checked the 950 shafts before thrre was  1 1/2 inches in the tip.lenghts between r and s.

 

I am.assuming the 1050s would be the same

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Thayneil said:

I would hard step up to the.9 then tip trim for the wedge.

Howards table shows the tip would be 0.365 some reaming maybe required.

 

You could also buy a stiff 8 iron shaft for the wedge.

 

I checked the 950 shafts before thrre was  1 1/2 inches in the tip.lenghts between r and s.

 

I am.assuming the 1050s would be the same

 

 

 

 

 

Howards table is for tapered but mine are parallel, I suppose I can trim the PW one, correct?

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17 hours ago, ChristianR said:

 

Howards table is for tapered but mine are parallel, I suppose I can trim the PW one, correct?

 

In many STEEL taper tip shafts going into parallel hosels you can, especially on those with stepped designs.    It depends on how far the shaft tip remains at the .370" diameter before it starts to increase.   Calipers are a good tool to double check what you might be able to get away with.

Edited by Stuart_G
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On 12/6/2020 at 11:35 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

In many STEEL taper tip shafts going into parallel hosels you can, especially on those with stepped designs.    It depends on how far the shaft tip remains at the .370" diameter before it starts to increase.   Calipers are a good tool to double check what you might be able to get away with.

 

I've disassembled the 4 iron (1050 parallel) and there are 3 good inches of .370 diameter tip, 3.25 precisely.

Now I've ordered two bunch of shafts Reg and Stiff at a bargain price on eBay, so when they come I can do comparison.

Considering the good amount of tip section, it should be possible to tip trim 0.5 all the shafts (the new ones) instead of swapping them to hard-step and be forced to buy an extra one for the PW, am I correct?

Thanks.

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43 minutes ago, ChristianR said:

 

I've disassembled the 4 iron (1050 parallel) and there are 3 good inches of .370 diameter tip, 3.25 precisely.

Now I've ordered two bunch of shafts Reg and Stiff at a bargain price on eBay, so when they come I can do comparison.

Considering the good amount of tip section, it should be possible to tip trim 0.5 all the shafts (the new ones) instead of swapping them to hard-step and be forced to buy an extra one for the PW, am I correct?

Thanks.

 

Yes, should be fine with 1/2" tipping.

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On 12/5/2020 at 5:34 AM, ChristianR said:

 

Exactly, so is there any difference? Can they be hard-stepped moving shafts or I have to tip trim?

I mean, should I just tip trim them 0,5" ? In this case I have also fixed the missing shaft for PW.

 

Howard already said that this is your answer:

 

On 12/5/2020 at 4:45 AM, Howard_Jones said:

.370 dont move in weight, so just tip trim them all 0.5" more than standard if HS1 is target

 

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56 minutes ago, ChristianR said:

Maybe a silly question...will a 0.75" tipping place me in the middle of R and S or only 0.5" steps are fine?

 

Middle - no.  And tipping really isn't the same as a flex change anyways so it's not really an apples->apples comparison.

 

There is no restriction on the tipping increments but 1/2" is usually used because anything smaller will likely not bring about a noticeable change for the vast majority of am's.     Start with 1/2" but leave the club 1/2" longer than desired - then go test it.  If it's still too soft, go back and take off another 1/2" on the tip.   If it's fine, take it off the butt end to get the final desired playing length.

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9 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Middle - no.  And tipping really isn't the same as a flex change anyways so it's not really an apples->apples comparison.

 

There is no restriction on the tipping increments but 1/2" is usually used because anything smaller will likely not bring about a noticeable change for the vast majority of am's.     Start with 1/2" but leave the club 1/2" longer than desired - then go test it.  If it's still too soft, go back and take off another 1/2" on the tip.   If it's fine, take it off the butt end to get the final desired playing length.

 

I was guessing that due to the theory that each step add around 1/3 of stiffness and considering that the difference between a R and a S it's 1,5" so 1/3 each 0,5".

Thank you.

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