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I want to rust a Scotty Cameron!!!!!!!!!


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Any thoughts on the rusting process
The finish is removed from a Studio Design #1. The putter is silver and I want to rust the head. Whats steps are the best for rusting a club.

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This was my rusty Newport when I bought it a few years ago for ~$70 It doesn't look like that anymore, but it did have a nice even patina of rust all over it...

I like the raw look

The finish is removed from a Studio Design #1. The putter is silver and I want to rust the head. Whats steps are the best for rusting a club.

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Rust usually isn't good for putters. Most people try to prevent it...Unless it has a copper finish. If its raw already, it should rust normally after a few uses. Unless you want to wrap it in a towel that was soaked in salt water.

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I love the way good rusty putters look. Its a dark brown with no glare. Justin Leonard used a rusty Scotty Coranado with a welded neck years ago that looked amazing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I want to get the complete opposite result : I don´t want my Scotty (studio design nr. 1) to rust. I use baby oil according to the onformation on the shaft this should do the trick, and I use Phillips shot gun oil (bought in my pro shop) I often put a protective coating on the head, and take especially good care after every round but the small rust marks have already apeared, and I worry this is just the start.

 

What more can I do to prevent rusting ? and what can I do to repair the small rust marks already on my club?

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I want to get the complete opposite result : I don´t want my Scotty (studio design nr. 1) to rust. I use baby oil according to the onformation on the shaft this should do the trick, and I use Phillips shot gun oil (bought in my pro shop) I often put a protective coating on the head, and take especially good care after every round but the small rust marks have already apeared, and I worry this is just the start.

 

What more can I do to prevent rusting ? and what can I do to repair the small rust marks already on my club?

 

I wipe my putter down with a silicone gun cloth that you can buy at any sporting goods store for a couple of bucks. Some Scotties come with one or you can order one from his website for $6.99 plus shipping. Made more sense to me to spend $1.99 at Academy. Bottom line it puts a protective coat on the putter that protects it from moisture.

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I use the 6,99 scotty cameron cloth, and it doesn't help. I see you are use an stainless putter, mine has an gun blue finish.

 

Are there any blue finish users around with simular problems?

 

 

I did this with the old terrylium, still do it with the pro platinum and the studio style:

 

Every now and then I pour a fair amount of oil into the headcover, you will oil the putter after each hole, never ever had any rust on my putter.

 

This obviously isn't the right way for those collecting headcovers. I bought some nice headcovers too, but I keep them at home with the putters I do not use. on course I only use the standard headcovers, although I have to say that not even their optics were harmed by the oil on the inside....

 

Gooze

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i like the sound of rusting your scotty. i did that with my oil can n it came out sweet. my suggestion is that since i live in hawaii theres a lot of salt so put in salt water overnight and see how comes out it should be almost complete. if you live by the beach, the water from the ocean should work best. then you should go with a scotch pad you know the greens ones and go over it and the rust should come smooth and your set.

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I'm sorry....but I've read this thread so many times and I just can't understand why you would want to do that to a Scotty. All I can think of is "SACRILEGE!" :)

My WITB.... [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/263-pitbull808-witb-updated-february-19-2013/"]http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/263-pitbull808-witb-updated-february-19-2013/[/url]

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I admire your vision to attempt something that is probably the #1 "against the grain" thing to do with golf equipment right now. :)

 

I play around with "cultivated rust" on small metalworking projects with some guys in the car club; old car parts, custom choppers, wrought iron sculptures, gates, etc. There are a few ways to go about getting a rusted finish; they all 'work' in that you'll get rust any of the ways, but I'm guessing the look you're after is more of a controlled patina as opposed to blotchy cancerous looking, ugly rust.

 

Toilet bowl cleaners work because the active ingredient in them is muriatic acid. Muriatic acid, if left in an open container on a bench next to a piece of raw steel, will cultivate rust overnight. It's powerful stuff, and also dangerous--it will burn you if you're not careful. Muriatic acid yields a beautiful result, however if must be neutralized after 24 hours with some sort of neutralizing agent--the easiest thing to use is baking soda/water mixed. This is a very messy job & keep in mind wherever the acid drips, it will stain/rust/kill the stuff it drips on. Wear gloves if you plan on doing this.

 

Another quick way to get a decent patina finish is with 'edible acids' such as citric or phosphoric acids. Common places to find these are lemon juice, Coke, Dr. Pepper, etc. Again although not ultra dangerous the acid should be neutralized after you get the patina you're after.

 

Salt induced rusting is not recommended as it leaves a deeper, blotchy etching in the material, and gives off more of a spotty, ugly 'open sore' type look than a smooth, even patina.

 

The best way to acheive the look you're after is by going with an actual patina metal aging chemical process. There are a bunch of different hues, tones, and colors available, and also different ways to make patterns on the surface you intend to rust.

 

I use products from this place and have had great success with them:

http://www.sculptnouveau.com/traditional.html

 

My favorite is the Japanese Brown Patina---I heat the metal up with a torch, not enough to get it red hot, but enough so the chemical 'quenches' the metal. Once properly soaked & quenched, I let it sit a MINIMUM of 12 hours, then shoot it with their Permalac clear coat. The end result is a beautiful patina finish that will not continue to deteriorate over time. It's essentially like paint....only not paint.....and I think it looks quite beautiful when applied correctly.

 

Your Cameron finished in the correct patina, properly applied, will look amazing. Best of luck to you and if you have any questions I can try my best to lend a hand. You've even got me thinking about trying this on an old Snake Eyes Milled putter I've had lying around since '97. :cheesy:

 

Take care,

 

Dan-

 

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  • 14 years later...

Whats the fascination with rusty putters these days? if you want that look but no pitting I suggest Birchwood Casey plum brown finish

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20180621-090133.jpg

20180621-090318.jpg

20180621-090108.jpgThis was my rusty Newport when I bought it a few years ago for ~$70

It doesn't look like that anymore, but it did have a nice even patina of rust all over it...

  • Like 2

Driver(s): Titleist 913 D2 9.5 & 915 D2 8.5 degree with an Aldila Green Tour stiff shaft.

3 Wood: Callaway Steelhead III with MSI 70 X-Flex shaft

2 Iron(s): Mizuno MP18 MMC Fli-Hi with a KBS C-Taper Lite Stiff shaft, Tour Edge Exotics EXS220 Ti-Utility with a stiff Mitsubishi Tensei Silver shaft.

3 Iron to PW: Mizuno MP32 with True Temper Dynamic Gold S300 shafts.

GW to LW: Cleveland RTX-3 52/10, 56/11, 60/9.

Putters: Scotty Cameron PP Newport Mil-Spec 340g, PP Newport 2 & Ping Anser Scottsdale BeNi

Grips: Midsize Lamkin UTX Cord Black on Driver to LW

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scotty-png.png

Driver(s): Titleist 913 D2 9.5 & 915 D2 8.5 degree with an Aldila Green Tour stiff shaft.

3 Wood: Callaway Steelhead III with MSI 70 X-Flex shaft

2 Iron(s): Mizuno MP18 MMC Fli-Hi with a KBS C-Taper Lite Stiff shaft, Tour Edge Exotics EXS220 Ti-Utility with a stiff Mitsubishi Tensei Silver shaft.

3 Iron to PW: Mizuno MP32 with True Temper Dynamic Gold S300 shafts.

GW to LW: Cleveland RTX-3 52/10, 56/11, 60/9.

Putters: Scotty Cameron PP Newport Mil-Spec 340g, PP Newport 2 & Ping Anser Scottsdale BeNi

Grips: Midsize Lamkin UTX Cord Black on Driver to LW

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  • 1 month later...

Maybe the original post from 2005 has rust on his putter now and this is the formula? time LOL

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