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Butane or Propane


joelco
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Hey I'm a newbie clubmaker and I've mostly only been working with steel shafts.  So far, I've been pulling shafts with heat by using a couple of cigarette lighters.  It works but takes a while to get enough heat.  I'm ready to upgrade, but I don't know whether to get a butane torch or a propane torch?

 

Do I need to buy a specialized golf-specific torch, or will one of the general purpose hardware store cheapo specials work for me? My local hardware store has Ace brand propane torches for less than $20.  Amazon has Butane torches that look to be marketed towards chefs for creme brulee and the like that cost less than $20 as well.  

 

Any help is appreciated.

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3 minutes ago, Nessism said:

I use propane but that doesn't mean it's superior.  I think butane may be better because the torch is smaller and you can pinpoint the heat better.  One thing I strongly recommend is a torch with a trigger spark and gas control feature.  I used a manual valve propane torch with spark tool for years and it's for the birds compared to the modern technology that's available these days.

 

Propane for pulling steel, Butane mini torch for pulling graphites. With Graphites you will need a shaft puller. Steel you can simply twist and pull. 

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Butane burns around 2600 F while propane burns hotter at 3600-4000 F. Obviously both are more than enough to deal with any club repair. You just need to be more careful with the propane.

Personally I like to use both a propane and a heat gun for when I am more concerned about surface finishes (ie paint close to hosel, etc).

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I own both but use propane more for golf work. I don’t use butane because I don’t like filling the torch so often. With propane the bigger bottles last a long time. Here’s the torch I use:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-BZ8250HTKC-MAP-Pro-Hose-Torch-Kit-BZ8250KC/203391035
 

The trigger is hosed to the tank so it’s easy to maneuver. 
 

I also own a heat gun. It’s handy for removing grip tape or store labels. 

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I have used both. Much prefer the precise control and heat delivery of a micro torch. MUCH easier to not overheat a graphite shaft and ruin it. Agree with shaft puller. Unless you are in a large high volume shop a very expensive one isnt needed... but nice to mount once and use all the time. Mine fits into a vice and works great. 

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I have a MAP/Propane torch, but I do everything with my heat-gun these days, both steel and graphite.  My old heat-gun broke and I recently bought a new Wagner Furno series with 2 speeds and 6 heat settings, so 12 settings in total -> Luv it !  Wish I ditched my old one sooner.

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I personally use a mapp gas torch for steel usually.  And a mini butane for graphite.  Mainly because I keep mapp gas anyway in the shop for heating rusty things.  
 

 

 

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On 12/16/2020 at 10:25 AM, Adam C said:

Butane burns around 2600 F while propane burns hotter at 3600-4000 F. Obviously both are more than enough to deal with any club repair. You just need to be more careful with the propane.

Personally I like to use both a propane and a heat gun for when I am more concerned about surface finishes (ie paint close to hosel, etc).

 

There is only approx 300 degrees difference between Propane and Butane.  

Flame temperatures of common gases and fuels
Gas / Fuels Flame temperature
Propane in air 1980 °C 3596 °F
Butane in air 1970 °C 3578 °F
Wood in air (normally not reached in a wood stove) 1980 °C 3596 °F
Acetylene in air 2550 °C 4622 °F
8 more rows
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I like this one. It has a small tip and can apply heat very precisely when removing graphite.

 

BT

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  • 10 months later...

I use Butane. I have had both but the butane is pinpoint and seems to get the job down the best on graphite shafts. Small handheld units are very light and you can easily maneuver it around the hosel when in the puller already. Its also easy to recharge when needed. And its fine for steel. I also find it quieter so you can hear the graphite bonds breaking down with the little snap, crackle, pop sounds and know when enough is enough to start applying tension on the puller.

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I use a big blue bernz-o-matic torch I bought from home depot. I bought the blue one because it is cheaper than the yellow one. For that reason, I think you can use any kind of torch. You will need a shaft puller for graphite.

 

If you want to shield an area from heat while pulling a shaft, use a wet cloth.

 

Also, always make sure to use heat resistant gloves when doing any shaft removal.

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i got a butane torch similar to that one from habor freight

 

messed up on a 983k that had a graphite shaft. I must have melted the shaft on the first go.

 

The 4 iron worked fine, s300 steel. Took it slower and it took 2 cycles before it came off but it was easy

 

are these little dimples on the shaft tip normal? Came out of an mp32 and the $ taper pull i bought doesnt have them

 

edit: the dimple was on both s300 that i pulled. Pictures of ebay pulls dont seem to have them but these are over 15 years old. theyre evenly spaced so ima assume dg makes them like that from factory

 

 

20211115_163301.jpg

Edited by river11
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27 minutes ago, river11 said:

messed up on a 983k that had a graphite shaft. I must have melted the shaft on the first go.

 

It's always possible to use too much heat - or more commonly not evenly heat the head enough - particularly on a bore through design.   Did you use a shaft extractor?

 

 

27 minutes ago, river11 said:

are these little dimples on the shaft tip normal?

 

I wouldn't say normal but some companies have been known to have done it to help with the epoxy bond.  It's nothing to be worried about.

 

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

It's always possible to use too much heat - or more commonly not evenly heat the head enough - particularly on a bore through design.   Did you use a shaft extractor?

 

 

 

I wouldn't say normal but some companies have been known to have done it to help with the epoxy bond.  It's nothing to be worried about.

 

 

 

re: too much heat in one spot, thats def possible. Its a broken shaft so i went full yolo into it. My only tool is the torch and an oven mitt. No puller no vice

 

I even twisted (it was reflex and i immediately knew i messed up). With the adaptable hosels these days i dont really feel the need to reflect on what i did wrong, i wont be using graphite in irons for another 20 years.

 

ty for reassuring me on the s300 dimples! putting my s taper in now

Edited by river11
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