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I am ready for blades - where do I start?


sonnygolf

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1 minute ago, Aviador Naval said:

A few non-ego reasons include:

 

1. you grew up with them and like the look/feel.

2. you have good speed and are a natural high ball hitter so typical GI causes as many problems as it solves

3. you play in dry, firm, tight conditions the vast majority of the time

4. you understand physics better than marketing and realize the degree of ‘forgiveness’ is much more relevant in a laboratory than a golf course

5.  you relish the journey more than the destination and would rather draw/fade/stinger the ball around for 78 than plug down the middle for 75

Makes sense, thanks. What does #4 mean? The size of the sweet spot is objectively larger on more forgiving clubs, no? 

Stealth OG 10.5 Ventus Red 6s

Epic flash 18deg Fujikura pro 6.0s

Maverick 21deg 7wd Fujikura pro 7.0S

5i-Aw Srixon ZX5  KBS TGI 100

52 Glide 4.0 SS KBS TGI 100

56 Glide 4.0 WS KBS TGI 100

60 Glide 4.0 TS KBS TGI 100

Lab DF3 70 deg 35.5" Accra Black

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I disagree with 5. If you can shoot lower scores with another iron choice, isn’t that a prudent move? Golf is about fewest strokes after all.

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Ping G430 Max 10K 10.5° driver - Diamana GT 60S

Ping G430 Max 15° #3 fairway - Diamana TB 70S

Ping G430 Max 21° #7 fairway - Diamana TB 80S

Ping G430 Max 26° #5 hybrid - MMTh 90S

Mizuno Pro 243 4-PW irons - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 48°-10S wedge - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 54°-10S and 60°-06X wedges - MMT Scoring Wedge 105S

Ping PLD Ally Blue 4

Titleist Pro V1x

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4 minutes ago, ephmen said:

Makes sense, thanks. What does #4 mean? The size of the sweet spot is objectively larger on more forgiving clubs, no? 

Sure, but how much does 0.03769% matter on the course.  Years ago Titleist published data on AP1, AP2, CB, and MB.  Can’t recall exactly but basically the difference between well struck balls was zero and between moderate/normal misses was like 2-3 yards.  You’ll get the crowd that says, “Wellllll, that 2-3 yards is the difference between putting for birdie and being in the front bunker”.  If that line is true on a regular basis, the speaker needs to work more on club selection and course management than worry about club head type.

 

IMO, head design is more about getting the launch angle you need and finding a sole configuration you like than it is ‘fixing your misses’...

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TSi3 10

TS2 16.5 & 21

G425 22 & 26

ZX7 6i - PW

Vokey 54F-14, 58K-12

Spider X

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2 hours ago, noodle3872 said:

I disagree with 5. If you can shoot lower scores with another iron choice, isn’t that a prudent move? Golf is about fewest strokes after all.

I don’t disagree with you.  For most, score is the most important metric - it ain’t how, it’s how many.

 

I do know a few folks however to which #5 applies - although they are my age, grew up when ‘working’ the ball was more necessary than it is today, and are more interested in enjoying time outdoors than grinding for a score.

Edited by Aviador Naval
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TSi3 10

TS2 16.5 & 21

G425 22 & 26

ZX7 6i - PW

Vokey 54F-14, 58K-12

Spider X

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24 minutes ago, ephmen said:

Serious question-why do people play blades besides ego? Some of the best ball strikers on tour play more forgiving clubs.  Plenty of more forgiving forged clubs with great feel, so I don't think feel is the answer. 

Ego should only refer to those who have them but can't hit them... 

 

To the OP @sonnygolf, what irons are you currently in? If you're serious about playing a blade, you should go out and hit as many offerings from as many brands as possible. If you can't, you should wait till you can. Do any friends have a set you could demo? I know some are saying buy something cheap just in case you don't like them, but if you're actually serious about it I would buy the irons you want. They don't all feel the same or look the same. Blade length varies and feel is not the same across the brands. I do not believe the "a blade is a blade" mantra. 

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TM SIM 9* Ventus Black 6TX 
TM SIM Ti 19* Ventus Black 9TX 
TM P790 3 DG X100 

TM P7MC 4, 2014 MB 5-PW DG X7
TM MG 52, 56, Hi-Toe 60 DG S400
TM Spider Tour Black

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8 hours ago, uglande said:

"Where do I start?"

 

The same place you'll finish: Mizuno MP-20.

 

Nothing feels better. Reasonably priced. Surprisingly forgiving. Great stock shaft options. Can easily blend with other MP irons. The MMC is fantastic if you want more forgiveness in the longer irons. 

 

Thanks! Mizzy blades have always been the ones that caught my eye. And yes I want as much forgiveness as possible

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Just now, sonnygolf said:

 

Thanks! Mizzy blades have always been the ones that caught my eye. And yes I want as much forgiveness as possible

Mizuno MP20’s nicely sized too. Not too insanely small in any regard.

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Ping G430 Max 10K 10.5° driver - Diamana GT 60S

Ping G430 Max 15° #3 fairway - Diamana TB 70S

Ping G430 Max 21° #7 fairway - Diamana TB 80S

Ping G430 Max 26° #5 hybrid - MMTh 90S

Mizuno Pro 243 4-PW irons - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 48°-10S wedge - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 54°-10S and 60°-06X wedges - MMT Scoring Wedge 105S

Ping PLD Ally Blue 4

Titleist Pro V1x

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5 minutes ago, sonnygolf said:

 

Thanks! Mizzy blades have always been the ones that caught my eye. And yes I want as much forgiveness as possible

 

Don't enter into a blade purchase with getting the "most forgiveness possible". Forgiveness is somewhat overhyped and overmarketed anyway, but the forgiveness "difference" between various blades is next to zero, if not absolute zero.

 

For everyone that says a Mizuno XYZ is the most forgiving blade they have ever hit, you'll hear the same amount say a Titleist ABC or [insert any blade here] is the most forgiving they have ever hit. It's all subjective. 

 

A blade is a blade. Trust me. 

 

Find the ones you like the look of most that are within your budget and buy 'em. Don't buy a crappy set from 20 years ago to "practice" with them, that's a load of crap and a waste of your time.

 

Buy the ones where every time you look at them you get excited to get out and play golf and practice.

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1 minute ago, tgoodspe1991 said:

 

Don't enter into a blade purchase with getting the "most forgiveness possible". Forgiveness is somewhat overhyped and overmarketed anyway, but the forgiveness "difference" between various blades is next to zero, if not absolute zero.

 

For everyone that says a Mizuno XYZ is the most forgiving blade they have ever hit, you'll hear the same amount say a Titleist ABC or [insert any blade here] is the most forgiving they have ever hit. It's all subjective. 

 

A blade is a blade. Trust me. 

 

Find the ones you like the look of most that are within your budget and buy 'em. Don't buy a crappy set from 20 years ago to "practice" with them, that's a load of crap and a waste of your time.

 

Buy the ones where every time you look at them you get excited to get out and play golf and practice.

Does anyone practice with blades (to improve ball striking)  but play with cavity backs?

Stealth OG 10.5 Ventus Red 6s

Epic flash 18deg Fujikura pro 6.0s

Maverick 21deg 7wd Fujikura pro 7.0S

5i-Aw Srixon ZX5  KBS TGI 100

52 Glide 4.0 SS KBS TGI 100

56 Glide 4.0 WS KBS TGI 100

60 Glide 4.0 TS KBS TGI 100

Lab DF3 70 deg 35.5" Accra Black

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Just now, ephmen said:

Does anyone practice with blades (to improve ball striking)  but play with cavity backs?

 

I never understood this logic either. Why wouldn't you practice your game with the clubs you're going to use on the course?

 

To me, that's like taking one driver to the range and learning how to stripe it and get comfortable hitting all the shots you want to hit with it, but then taking a completely different driver to the course. Why would you do that?

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No one suggested MP-33 yet? 

Driver: Titleist 913 D3 8.5° A-1 setting Graphite Design YS-6+ 65g stiff

Wood:  Titleist 980F 17° Aldila NV stiff

Hybrid: Titleist 909H 21° Aldila Voodoo stiff 

Irons:  Titleist 716 AP2 4- W  DG AMT S300

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM7  54°,  58° DG S200

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot #1 Tour

Ball: Titleist Pro V1

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19 hours ago, gwelfgulfer said:

Used set of older ones like MP-33s, 32/67s or TP MBs.  Lots of quality sets you can get for not much and can be flipped for same amount when you're ready to get something newer.

 

Best advice here.  I remember when I first started out and thought i was ready for blades cause that's what these types of golf forums said the "good" players played.  So I bought a used set of Mizuno MP-68's and a used set of Titleist 712MB's.  I ran to the range and was waiting for that big moment where the angels sang and I would be so overwhelmed with amazement I'd never again wish to swing a cavity back club in my life.  Sad to say the ball traveled 15 yards less and the feel wasn't so amazing.  I went through an entire bucket of balls, giving both clubs the opportunity to convince me everything I'd read about blades was real but it didn't happen.  I took out my old Callaway X-Hot irons and striped it 15 yards past my blade shots.  I spent a summer trying to love those blades but it never happened.   

I still have the 68's, they are a beautiful club, and at this point I do better appreciate the feel on a well hit shot but at 55 years old, the GI irons are just so much better for my game I can't imagine giving them up to play blades.  

Driver - Callaway Paradym
Woods - Callaway Paradym 3W
Hybrids - XXIO 10 3H, 4H, 5H
Irons - Callaway Paradym 6-52*
Wedge - PXG Forged 56** 
Putter - Ping TYNE C
Ball - Titleist AVX

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55 minutes ago, Old Tom Morris said:

No one suggested MP-33 yet? 

My all time favorites... until the MP20 came out.  Great sticks if you can find them...

Titleist TSR4 8*  Ventus Black TR 6x
Titleist TSr3 13.5 Ventus Black TR 7x
Mizuno Pro 221 4-pw Modus 125x
Vokey SM9 52.08F 56.08M 60.04T
Scotty Newport Button Back or
Scotty Select 1/500 Newport Black Mist

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This is going to be a bit of a trial and error adventure. It's fun, though. 
 

If you have a specific shaft or shaft weight in mind, this may be a smoother journey. A lot of older MBs come stock with dynamic gold s300--though Hogan Apex shafts were a bit lighter (Dynalite R300/S300) and feel very smooth (similar to nippon modus 105/120). 
 

The old hogan apex irons are really great, provided you set up knowing the sweet spot is a little towards the heel. Got a pair of BH Grinds for ~$60 and they're really wonderful. Right up there alongside the Hogan Redlines--it's nearly the same iron, but much more available. Also a good amount of bounce--they were built partly with Florida's nasty turf in mind. 
 

In the $200-$300 range, Mizuno MP-4s are  a great choice. Razor-thin topline, incredibly soft on a good strike. 
 

In the $500 range, I'll put another vote in for the Apex MB. Best feeling iron I've hit, with a similar size to the Miura BB/Ping Blueprint. You really see the old hogan dna in the Apex MB '18. But don't put money in at this range without a return policy, and maybe a shaft fitting to dial in what your actual preferences are. 

Edited by revanant
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Ping iBlades 

 

not forged but by far the easiest to hit blade looking club and for a cast club they feel pretty good

TM SIM Max 9* Tensei Orange 60
Titleist TS2 16.5 Motore X 75
Ping g400 20.5 DVS 85
Titleist 818H1 23* Diamana 90

Ping i500 5-7, iBlade 8-Pw 
Ping Glide 53, 58, Callaway 64*
Kevin Burns “Icemakr” custom
Stage IV MELANOMA SURVIVOR
“kids wear your sunscreen !!"

OG wrxer (check my member #)
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A7DAD3FF-E4AC-47CE-B4AC-16E02EB22BFA.jpeg

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Callaway Rogue Max LS Driver, 9 degrees, Tensei Blue shaft

Mizuno ST180 5 wood

Ping G425 Max 7 wood
Srixon ZX4 4 iron
Srixon ZX5 irons 5-PW, Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 shafts

Cleveland RTX6 48* wedge

Cleveland Zipcore 54* wedge
Cleveland RTX 58* full face wedge
Nike Method Core Drone 2.0 putter 34"
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7 hours ago, Aviador Naval said:

Sure, but how much does 0.03769% matter on the course.  Years ago Titleist published data on AP1, AP2, CB, and MB.  Can’t recall exactly but basically the difference between well struck balls was zero and between moderate/normal misses was like 2-3 yards.  You’ll get the crowd that says, “Wellllll, that 2-3 yards is the difference between putting for birdie and being in the front bunker”.  If that line is true on a regular basis, the speaker needs to work more on club selection and course management than worry about club head type.

 

IMO, head design is more about getting the launch angle you need and finding a sole configuration you like than it is ‘fixing your misses’...

 

20 years ago when I played damn near everyday one of the local pros I played with a few times a week carried Mizuno MP-14's.  At the time I played Tommy Armour 845's and would hit his MP-14's on the range from time to time.  I felt the MP-14's were really easy to hit and every bit as "forgiving" as my 845's.  A couple of years before I stopped playing I purchased a new set of Ping ISI's and am currently using them since I just started back playing a few months ago...  Last week at a range I stopped into to hit balls they had a cart of clubs so the "non-golf" patrons could hit balls for entertainment.  As I walked by I noticed an old forged blade 5 iron...  I believe it was a Wilson or Spalding and had to have been from the 60's.  I have no idea what shaft was in it as there was no identification label and it felt as if it was physically shorter than my 8 iron.  With only about few balls left I decided to hit that old 5 iron.  I swear the ball was larger than the club head and I thought to myself "this is going to be ugly and probably hurt my hands".  I could not believe how solid that old club felt.  It was the absolute purest feeling I have ever had hitting a golf ball.  

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Top pick - Apex MB '18

 

Otherwise:

 

Mizuno MP68/69/5

Cleveland 588MB

Taylormade MB '14

Srixon Z945/965

Callaway X-Prototype

 

Really just have fun with it, put a shaft that suits you in them and just enjoy. It's a process with blades not immediate satisfaction.

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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I am in your shoes. Going into blades before I am too old to play them... LOL...

 

Just purchased Srixon Z Forged, which many will say is a good entry point into blade transition.

 

 

Driver - Titleist TS3 9.5* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6x

3 wood - Titleist TS2 15* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7x

5wood - Titleist TS2 18* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-8x

Irons - Srixon ZX7 4, Srixon Z Forged 5- PW w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Tour 120X

Gap Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore 52* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Sand Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore 58* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Lob Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore Full Face 64* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Putter - Bettinardi DASS Diamond Face BB8 w/ Stability Tour Black

Ball - Srixon Z Star

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10 hours ago, ephmen said:

The size of the sweet spot is objectively larger on more forgiving clubs, no? 

No it’s not, for ****‘s sake!

Tom Wishon, probably

 

This whole thread is going exactly how all the other ones went 🙄

 

OP, your question is valid, but your vagueness doesn’t help keeping this from becoming a „my personal favorite blade and why blades are better“ discussion. 

 

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3 hours ago, LukeDonaldsTiger said:

but your vagueness doesn’t help keeping this from becoming a „my personal favorite blade and why blades are better“ discussion. 

 

The way the original question is worded and even some of the OP's responses leads me to believe this is exactly the intent. So I responded in the same vein.

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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