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Ping G410 Driver and Hybrid - Shaft Shortening Questions


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Hi All,

 

I have two separate questions for two separate clubs.  

 

1. Ping G410 Driver - I'm looking to shorten the club by one inch but i want to keep the swing weight at the factory swing weight (D3).  I have read that i can either add 12 grams to the head.  I know one option is to add lead tape.  Is it an option to add the 12 grams via an additional head weight as well?  I plan to play the club with a draw bias.  Can i put the standard 16g weight in the draw position and the 12 gram in the neutral position or will this cause problems? The third option is to get a 22 gram lite weight grip.  I'm new to swing weights and It would be great if someone could help me weigh the options. 

 

2. Ping G410 2 Hybrid - I am looking to shorten this club by half an inch.  I have a shaft from  my ping g410 3 hybrid that i was hoping to put into the 2 hybrid.  It is half an inch shorter and would help me achieve my goal of shortening.  Do i need to make any head weight adjustments to keep the factory swing weight (D1)

 

Thank you guys for the help and reading. 

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1 minute ago, sfgolf said:

Hi All,

 

I have two separate questions for two separate clubs.  

 

1. Ping G410 Driver - I'm looking to shorten the club by one inch but i want to keep the swing weight at the factory swing weight (D3).  I have read that i can either add 12 grams to the head.  I know one option is to add lead tape.  Is it an option to add the 12 grams via an additional head weight as well?  I plan to play the club with a draw bias.  Can i put the standard 16g weight in the draw position and the 12 gram in the neutral position or will this cause problems? The third option is to get a 22 gram lite weight grip.  I'm new to swing weights and It would be great if someone could help me weigh the options. 

 

2. Ping G410 2 Hybrid - I am looking to shorten this club by half an inch.  I have a shaft from  my ping g410 3 hybrid that i was hoping to put into the 2 hybrid.  It is half an inch shorter and would help me achieve my goal of shortening.  Do i need to make any head weight adjustments to keep the factory swing weight (D1)

 

Thank you guys for the help and reading. 


You can add a second weight to the driver head no problem. I have two in mine also. I play a heavier shaft, and a heavy grip. At 45” mine was coming in at D0 with a 12g weight. I picked up a 6g weight and got it to D3. You can play around with the weights and see where you like them. Putting one in the heel (the heavier one for your preference), and the lighter one in the toe would help make the head very stable. I’m playing mine with the 12 in the toe and the 6 in the heel. 
 

As for the hybrid, you’ll lose a little bit of sw going to the shorter shaft. I’m not familiar with them, and if they have a weight or not, but lead tape or adding a heavier weight would work there as well. 

These are the weights I use in my driver:

 

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/ping-new-g-410-head-weights-weights-sold-separabley/

 

Great quality and fit perfectly. 

Stealth Plus+ 10.5* || Ventus Blue TR 7x

SIM2 Rescue 17* || Ventus Blue HB 8x

X-Forged UT 18* || MMT UT 105tx

TSi2 21* || Ventus Black HB 10tx

T100/620MB 5-9 || DG X7

SM9 47 || DG X7

SM9 51, 55, 59 || DG X1

BB8 Tri Wiz Cu Insert || BGT Stability Tour

 

Bettinardi BKS #1

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Yes, adding weight to the head (or changing the weights) is not going to cause problems - as long as the resulting swing weight or head weight is a good fit for you.

 

Going with a lighter grip is very unlikely to help and could actually make things worse so stick to adding weight to the head.

 

Just realize that maintaining the same swing weight isn't always the same as maintaining the same weight feel or heft feel.  Unfortunately, that's not how the swing weight concept works.   Or rather, it doesn't always work very well at doing that.

 

So don't get fixated on a particular swing weight value or particular amount to add.  You'll really need to play around and work up to the best value incrementally.   That's where the lead tape works the best.  It will also allow you test whether the placement location actually makes a difference or not.  More typically the placement will not matter so don't expect to change the bias all that much.

 Then once you've found the right value with the lead tape, go ahead and repace one of the weights with the appropriate size based on the amount of lead tape needed.   

 

Same answer applies for the hybrid as well.

 

FYI - This is the best thread on how to go about shortening a club and finding the best head weight.  It will work for both the driver and hybrid:

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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hi @Stuart_G,

 

I shortened my g410 driver by one inch.  I realized half way through sawing that i cut through the counterweight.  I did some research and learned there is an 8g counterweight that was embedded into the end of the shaft.

 

 Is there anyway to replace that weight?  Is the shaft ruined? What should i expect not having that weight there any more?

 

Any information would be helpful. Thank you!

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26 minutes ago, sfgolf said:

hi @Stuart_G,

 

I shortened my g410 driver by one inch.  I realized half way through sawing that i cut through the counterweight.  I did some research and learned there is an 8g counterweight that was embedded into the end of the shaft.

 

 Is there anyway to replace that weight?  Is the shaft ruined? What should i expect not having that weight there any more?

 

Any information would be helpful. Thank you!

 

Personally if you're cutting it shorter I think you're probably better off getting rid of the butt weight.   I'd at least try it without first.   Butt weights is more often a way that people who dont' understand the swing weight concept try and take a short cut to lighten the swing weight.

 

There are some cases where counterbalancing can help. But in those cases it's not about trying to make the head feel any lighter.

 

What to expect? The club will be lighter 🙂    Anything else is way too subjective to be predictable on how it will translate to a change in feel for you.

 

But if you really want to replace it, they can be found here:

 

https://www.golfworks.com/lead-counterweights-for-steel-shafts/p/cw/

https://www.golfworks.com/tour-lock-pro-counter-plugs/p/tlcp8v/

 

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8 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Personally if you're cutting it shorter I think you're probably better off getting rid of the butt weight.   I'd at least try it without first.   Butt weights is more often a way that people who dont' understand the swing weight concept try and take a short cut to lighten the swing weight.

 

There are some cases where counterbalancing can help. But in those cases it's not about trying to make the head feel any lighter.

 

What to expect? The club will be lighter 🙂    Anything else is way too subjective to be predictable on how it will translate to a change in feel for you.

 

But if you really want to replace it, they can be found here:

 

https://www.golfworks.com/lead-counterweights-for-steel-shafts/p/cw/

https://www.golfworks.com/tour-lock-pro-counter-plugs/p/tlcp8v/

 

Thanks @Stuart_G.  I'm going to get rid of the butt weight and try to play it from there. I guess i wanted to make sure it would not change playability of the club by not adding it back on.  I think you are saying i should be fine.  Thanks again for your help!

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