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Swing Weights for Tall Players


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Hey everyone!

 

First post and tried to find a thread on GolfWRX or Reddit without much help. I'm around a 15 handicap (only play 10-15 rounds a year so can't say for sure) and am 6'7" and 200lbs with a swing speed 110-115mph with my driver. A couple of years ago I purchased the 2014 Apex 3-AW DG SL X100 shafts with 2" extensions from Callaway Preowned after getting fit at Golf Galaxy (I know not the best place, but it's what I had at the time). I absolutely love the 5-AW, but really struggle with the 3 and 4 irons in terms of distance and face control. The 3 iron goes around 220 (same as my 5 iron) and the 4 iron goes 210 (same as my 6 iron). I've also never been a great driver or wood player so I finally decided to do some quick measurements to check my swing weights for 5-AW were right around E0 whereas my 3 and 4 were D6 and driver (Mavrik SZ 10.5 w/ HZRDUS Green 6.5 70g) and 3 wood (TM M5 w/ GD AD IZ 8x) were D2. Now I could be off since I only used an online calculator since I don't have a swing weight scale, but those seem to be pretty significant differences. 

 

My question is: What do other tall players do to help get similar swing weights in their longer clubs to help with gapping and club face control? I'm worried to add too much weight to my driver in order to bring up the swing weight because I'm hesitant about the aftermarket weights.

 

Thanks!

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I'm 6'4" with 39" wrist to floor and I've been fit anywhere from +0.5 to +2.5" from a number of very well regarded fitters (+2.5" was from The Leadbetter Academy!). In the past I've played at a high l

Try starting out with the wedges at the +2" (where the shorter length is going to be more problematic but weight isn't) and then use shorter length increments e.g. 3/8" instead of 1/2".   That will ea

Have been watching this thread and was a big fan and participant in the previous thread around fitting taller golfers.     I am 6'4 but have a 39.5 inch wrist to floor measurement and was fi

Man, I have no idea where to even start with this one.  I'd tell you to look at a utility iron to replace your 3 and 4 iron.  

 

Most golfers struggle with those two clubs anyway, and as they are often hollow bodied design, you can possibly add or remove weight as you need to achieve the desired swing weight and overall weight you want.

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Im 6'9" and play +2" and 5* upright. Most Ping clubs have weights in them that allow them to adjust swing weights at the factory. 

 

I have never had an issue getting them straight from Ping. If you already have clubs, you can send them in for adjustment if needed. 

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There's a few of us tall guys (I'm 6'9") here on the forums and I'm sure they'll likely chime in too.  For me I've historically played +1.5" to +2" for the past 15 years and have struggled with trying to find a solution to swinging clubs that feel like hammers. 

 

There are a couple of really insightful people here who know way more than me about swingweights but I'll give it a stab.  When messing around with SW and counterbalance you'll fool the SW scale by adding weight to the butt end of the club but you are also causing the overall weight of the club to increase.  I've played around with using counterbalance grips from SwitchGrips (Tourlock is also another option) and they've worked out fine for me.  It brought my SW's down from E0-E2 to D4-D6.  I did notice the added weight but it wasn't anything that didn't take me a bucket or two of range balls to get used to.  

 

I'll echo what many will say about finding a great fitter - once you find this person they'll be your best friend.  That said, I'm excited for my fitting session (a refresher to see what new tech might work better than my current gear) and hoping to try out some shafts in the 110-120g range to see how they play.  Also keep in mind that Mizuno and Titleist also have lightweight iron heads for overlength builds (a good fitter will know this).

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23 minutes ago, toddmanley said:

There's a few of us tall guys (I'm 6'9") here on the forums and I'm sure they'll likely chime in too.  For me I've historically played +1.5" to +2" for the past 15 years and have struggled with trying to find a solution to swinging clubs that feel like hammers. 

 

There are a couple of really insightful people here who know way more than me about swingweights but I'll give it a stab.  When messing around with SW and counterbalance you'll fool the SW scale by adding weight to the butt end of the club but you are also causing the overall weight of the club to increase.  I've played around with using counterbalance grips from SwitchGrips (Tourlock is also another option) and they've worked out fine for me.  It brought my SW's down from E0-E2 to D4-D6.  I did notice the added weight but it wasn't anything that didn't take me a bucket or two of range balls to get used to.  

 

I'll echo what many will say about finding a great fitter - once you find this person they'll be your best friend.  That said, I'm excited for my fitting session (a refresher to see what new tech might work better than my current gear) and hoping to try out some shafts in the 110-120g range to see how they play.  Also keep in mind that Mizuno and Titleist also have lightweight iron heads for overlength builds (a good fitter will know this).

 

Did you ever play with reducing the length versus adding weight to the grip end to adjust swing weight?  I know I'm ahead of myself but I'm waiting on some clubs to come in that are 2 inches beyond stock, flat lie.  I was reading some other threads that most tall guys are only going .25-.5 or maybe one inch above standard and will just adjust the lie angle up instead of going up towards 2 inches.   I'll report back on this thread my reaction after I get my clubs in a few weeks how they feel but I'm interested in your thoughts.

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5 hours ago, Bgrote55 said:

Hey everyone!

 

First post and tried to find a thread on GolfWRX or Reddit without much help. I'm around a 15 handicap (only play 10-15 rounds a year so can't say for sure) and am 6'7" and 200lbs with a swing speed 110-115mph with my driver. A couple of years ago I purchased the 2014 Apex 3-AW DG SL X100 shafts with 2" extensions from Callaway Preowned after getting fit at Golf Galaxy (I know not the best place, but it's what I had at the time). I absolutely love the 5-AW, but really struggle with the 3 and 4 irons in terms of distance and face control. The 3 iron goes around 220 (same as my 5 iron) and the 4 iron goes 210 (same as my 6 iron). I've also never been a great driver or wood player so I finally decided to do some quick measurements to check my swing weights for 5-AW were right around E0 whereas my 3 and 4 were D6 and driver (Mavrik SZ 10.5 w/ HZRDUS Green 6.5 70g) and 3 wood (TM M5 w/ GD AD IZ 8x) were D2. Now I could be off since I only used an online calculator since I don't have a swing weight scale, but those seem to be pretty significant differences. 

 

My question is: What do other tall players do to help get similar swing weights in their longer clubs to help with gapping and club face control? I'm worried to add too much weight to my driver in order to bring up the swing weight because I'm hesitant about the aftermarket weights.

 

Thanks!

 

How did you do them online? The 3 and 4 should fall in line with the rest of the set. To me it sounds like there may be a different issue here because you shouldn't loose 20 yards from a swing weight issue. A swing weight issue will cause consistency problems, not distance loss on solid contact. 

 

For the driver consider going longer. When I was fit for +2 irons I was also fit for a 46" driver. It felt a little long for me so I went down to 45.5, but I have never felt comfortable with one shorter than that.

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43 minutes ago, Jc0 said:

 

How did you do them online? The 3 and 4 should fall in line with the rest of the set. To me it sounds like there may be a different issue here because you shouldn't loose 20 yards from a swing weight issue. A swing weight issue will cause consistency problems, not distance loss on solid contact. 

 

For the driver consider going longer. When I was fit for +2 irons I was also fit for a 46" driver. It felt a little long for me so I went down to 45.5, but I have never felt comfortable with one shorter than that.

It's most likely a contact issue... playing a 3 iron 2 inches over standard length isn't going to end well for a 15 handicap... especially if the swing weight is different. 

 

I think it makes sense to move into hybrids, simply as they are easier to hit... I'd suggest sticking with normal length woods and drivers (and maybe +1 on the hybrids). From there, you just need to figure out what swing weight works and make sure the shafts are a good weight (possibly look at graphite shafts for lighter clubs)

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2 hours ago, Myherobobhope said:

I'd suggest sticking with normal length woods and drivers (and maybe +1 on the hybrids)

I use this same approach with my driver and 3wood - makes it much easier when it comes to demo'ing a club and trying things from time to time.  With the hybrid you'll see typically a half inch progression from the manufacturer when you go up in loft across the hybrid.  I remember working with my local PGA Superstore to have them take off the shaft from the 19* 818 hybrid and let me try it in the 21* 818.  They obliged and let me buy it in that confirguration.

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18 hours ago, OsnolaKinnard said:

Man, I have no idea where to even start with this one.  I'd tell you to look at a utility iron to replace your 3 and 4 iron.  

 

Most golfers struggle with those two clubs anyway, and as they are often hollow bodied design, you can possibly add or remove weight as you need to achieve the desired swing weight and overall weight you want.

Thanks! I might try to add some weight to them to see if that helps. I know most people struggle with longer irons and that's why they go hybrids, but to me it seems like I have a hard time because it feels like the weight is more in the butt section than by the head. I'll take some lead tape and play around with it!

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18 hours ago, Cheesehead42 said:

Im 6'9" and play +2" and 5* upright. Most Ping clubs have weights in them that allow them to adjust swing weights at the factory. 

 

I have never had an issue getting them straight from Ping. If you already have clubs, you can send them in for adjustment if needed. 

Ok thanks! Once these COVID shutdowns are over I'm going to try and find a place where I can get someone to help me dial in the swing weights and gapping to fit my needs. I just wish I had $2000 for a quality fitting and full set of new clubs.

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18 hours ago, toddmanley said:

There's a few of us tall guys (I'm 6'9") here on the forums and I'm sure they'll likely chime in too.  For me I've historically played +1.5" to +2" for the past 15 years and have struggled with trying to find a solution to swinging clubs that feel like hammers. 

 

There are a couple of really insightful people here who know way more than me about swingweights but I'll give it a stab.  When messing around with SW and counterbalance you'll fool the SW scale by adding weight to the butt end of the club but you are also causing the overall weight of the club to increase.  I've played around with using counterbalance grips from SwitchGrips (Tourlock is also another option) and they've worked out fine for me.  It brought my SW's down from E0-E2 to D4-D6.  I did notice the added weight but it wasn't anything that didn't take me a bucket or two of range balls to get used to.  

 

I'll echo what many will say about finding a great fitter - once you find this person they'll be your best friend.  That said, I'm excited for my fitting session (a refresher to see what new tech might work better than my current gear) and hoping to try out some shafts in the 110-120g range to see how they play.  Also keep in mind that Mizuno and Titleist also have lightweight iron heads for overlength builds (a good fitter will know this).

Thanks! I'll look into those grips to help get my SW dialed in closer together. We have a Club Champion near me which I will probably go to in the next few years once I have a nice chunk of change to drop on new clubs and when I start playing more. It's just hard to convince my wife for me to drop $2000 on clubs when I only play a dozen or so times a year. You'll have to let me know what your fitter recommends for you in your next session and good luck!

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17 hours ago, cschweitzer29 said:

 

Did you ever play with reducing the length versus adding weight to the grip end to adjust swing weight?  I know I'm ahead of myself but I'm waiting on some clubs to come in that are 2 inches beyond stock, flat lie.  I was reading some other threads that most tall guys are only going .25-.5 or maybe one inch above standard and will just adjust the lie angle up instead of going up towards 2 inches.   I'll report back on this thread my reaction after I get my clubs in a few weeks how they feel but I'm interested in your thoughts.

I have not played with reducing the length yet. That has crossed my mind to maybe take 1/2 inch off to see how that feels. I'm already 3* upright and my arms are slightly shorter than some my height (6'4" wingspan) so I'm not sure how much I can take off before things go crazy, but I'd definitely like to give it a shot.

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14 hours ago, Jc0 said:

 

How did you do them online? The 3 and 4 should fall in line with the rest of the set. To me it sounds like there may be a different issue here because you shouldn't loose 20 yards from a swing weight issue. A swing weight issue will cause consistency problems, not distance loss on solid contact. 

 

For the driver consider going longer. When I was fit for +2 irons I was also fit for a 46" driver. It felt a little long for me so I went down to 45.5, but I have never felt comfortable with one shorter than that.

I bought them directly from Callaway PreOwned with them already extended 2" (I didn't customize them afterwards). I figured the swing weight would cause consistency issues, but wasn't sure if the lighter head weight would have much of an effect on distance. The Mavrik SZ standard length is 45.75" which is what I have it in because I was worried adding much more would worsen my contact issues.

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14 hours ago, Myherobobhope said:

It's most likely a contact issue... playing a 3 iron 2 inches over standard length isn't going to end well for a 15 handicap... especially if the swing weight is different. 

 

I think it makes sense to move into hybrids, simply as they are easier to hit... I'd suggest sticking with normal length woods and drivers (and maybe +1 on the hybrids). From there, you just need to figure out what swing weight works and make sure the shafts are a good weight (possibly look at graphite shafts for lighter clubs)

Thanks! Ya I figured the added length on those clubs was a lot of the problem. I'll probably look into a hybrid to eliminate my 3 and 4 iron for those shots around 240-250 yards. I used to swing a wood that was extended 2" before I knew better and let me tell you, that was a sight to watch.

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11 hours ago, toddmanley said:

I use this same approach with my driver and 3wood - makes it much easier when it comes to demo'ing a club and trying things from time to time.  With the hybrid you'll see typically a half inch progression from the manufacturer when you go up in loft across the hybrid.  I remember working with my local PGA Superstore to have them take off the shaft from the 19* 818 hybrid and let me try it in the 21* 818.  They obliged and let me buy it in that confirguration.

That makes a lot of sense! I wish I had a PGA Superstore near me for me to try things out, but unfortunately I only have Golf Galaxy and Club Champion. Once COVID restrictions are gone I will try to go to a golf club demo day so I can try some different clubs out for free or a small fee.

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Another, and less expensive way to experiment is to play around with a single club like a 6 iron.  There are a lot of resources here and online which can help you get up to speed with doing some of your own club building to reduce costs and gain enjoyment from playing around with different shafts and lengths.  I have an old Mizuno MP-33 6 iron that's probably seen ~10 different shaft combos over the past 15 years!

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Just wanted to update as I got to hit my clubs yesterday.  My P770s were 2+ over stock with stock lie and I got to hit about twenty balls with each of my irons.  To be honest, the weight didn't bother me much until I hit my 7 iron to an extent--definitely when I hit the 5; but I think that is a combination of weight AND shaft flex.  For context, I have the stock KBS 120g Stiff.   

 

I think if I were to keep 2+ then I should have gone extra stiff and/or a lighter weighted shaft, maybe 105g or lighter--or a totally different shaft in general.   My shaft felt like a regular or maybe what a senior would be so I'm having them cut 1" to just be 1" over stock.  Even just shaking the club in my hand you could see the bend and it was pretty ridiculous.  If those feel good after being cut down a tad, then I'll play with my lies afterwards. 

 

In another recent thread, I read most tall players are just going half-to-one-inch over stock and adjusting the lie up and I can see why; I think I'll be falling into that camp.  Just a PSA that if you go really long then talk with your fitter about how that may impact not just the weight but the shaft flex.

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30* TaylorMade P790 7i

34* TaylorMade P770 7i

38* TaylorMade P770 8i

42* TaylorMade P770 9i

46* TaylorMade P770 PW

52* Callaway MD5 12W

56* Callaway MD3 12W

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44 minutes ago, cschweitzer29 said:

Just wanted to update as I got to hit my clubs yesterday.  My P770s were 2+ over stock with stock lie and I got to hit about twenty balls with each of my irons.  To be honest, the weight didn't bother me much until I hit my 7 iron to an extent--definitely when I hit the 5; but I think that is a combination of weight AND shaft flex.  For context, I have the stock KBS 120g Stiff.   

 

I think if I were to keep 2+ then I should have gone extra stiff and/or a lighter weighted shaft, maybe 105g or lighter--or a totally different shaft in general.   My shaft felt like a regular or maybe what a senior would be so I'm having them cut 1" to just be 1" over stock.  Even just shaking the club in my hand you could see the bend and it was pretty ridiculous.  If those feel good after being cut down a tad, then I'll play with my lies afterwards. 

 

In another recent thread, I read most tall players are just going half-to-one-inch over stock and adjusting the lie up and I can see why; I think I'll be falling into that camp.  Just a PSA that if you go really long then talk with your fitter about how that may impact not just the weight but the shaft flex.

 

Try starting out with the wedges at the +2" (where the shorter length is going to be more problematic but weight isn't) and then use shorter length increments e.g. 3/8" instead of 1/2".   That will ease things a bit for the long end of the set where the weight is problematic but you don't really need the extra length.

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4 hours ago, cschweitzer29 said:

Just wanted to update as I got to hit my clubs yesterday.  My P770s were 2+ over stock with stock lie and I got to hit about twenty balls with each of my irons.  To be honest, the weight didn't bother me much until I hit my 7 iron to an extent--definitely when I hit the 5; but I think that is a combination of weight AND shaft flex.  For context, I have the stock KBS 120g Stiff.   

 

I think if I were to keep 2+ then I should have gone extra stiff and/or a lighter weighted shaft, maybe 105g or lighter--or a totally different shaft in general.   My shaft felt like a regular or maybe what a senior would be so I'm having them cut 1" to just be 1" over stock.  Even just shaking the club in my hand you could see the bend and it was pretty ridiculous.  If those feel good after being cut down a tad, then I'll play with my lies afterwards. 

 

In another recent thread, I read most tall players are just going half-to-one-inch over stock and adjusting the lie up and I can see why; I think I'll be falling into that camp.  Just a PSA that if you go really long then talk with your fitter about how that may impact not just the weight but the shaft flex.

 

Have been watching this thread and was a big fan and participant in the previous thread around fitting taller golfers.  

 

I am 6'4 but have a 39.5 inch wrist to floor measurement and was fit by a highly regarded fitter in TN 5 years ago into +2 irons.  I am on my third set and have played them well (at least to my standards) as I have lowered my handicap since the switch.

 

To the point on shafts, although my driver swing speed is 106-110, I have played Xstiff shafts (Dynamic Golf Tour Issue currently) to make up for the extra length, so that is absolutely a consideration.

 

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I'm 6'4" with 39" wrist to floor and I've been fit anywhere from +0.5 to +2.5" from a number of very well regarded fitters (+2.5" was from The Leadbetter Academy!). In the past I've played at a high level (won 3x NCAA D1 championships, played Challenge Tour and European Tour) but now just play the game recreationally. Here's my thoughts:

 -  At more than +1", generally you are going outside of the boundaries of what the club/shaft manufacturers intended with regards swing weight/overall weight/balance point/design

 - It's much, much harder to play really long clubs if you don't play a lot

 - Playing irons of E+ swingweights can lead to injury so avoid if possible

 

If you do find yourself needing excessively long clubs:

 - Go upright before you go longer. I think 3 deg upright is just about the playable max. I think the flatter you can keep the lie the more stable the club will be through impact.

 - Figure out the shortest playable length of the shortest club you'll make a full swing with. For me thats a 52deg gap wedge, then use that over standard (i.e.+1") throughout the bag.

 - Select irons from a manufacturer who offers light weight head options....Mizuno, Titleist, TM, Ping

 - Take advantage of other base components to shift the swing weight in your favour, i.e. KBS Tour 120's are counterbalanced and can shift swingweight -3 points vs something like an x100. Midsize grips are another thing that can shift swing weight in your favour, as are white grips are they contain more pigment and are usually heavier. I've never been a fan of using counterweights like Tour Lock, but arguably they produce the same effect as as midsize grip

 - Just because you need longer irons, you probably don't need longer woods

 - Don't forget that your swing plays a large part. If you're playing clubs at +2" but you're an early extender/handle raiser, you're not doing yourself any favors with clubs that are that long.

 

I'm currently in a combo set of TM P7MC/P770 which swing weight between D2-D5, and they are +1" over TM standard.

 

 

 

 

 

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I've been looking into this as I'm just getting back into the game after 5 years off (and limited rounds the 2-3 years prior to that). I've got clubs that were fit for me in late 2001, when I was only 22. 

 

I'm 6'5" and the little I know about them today is that they're Infiniti 603 irons with Nippon Pro NS950 stiff shafts. My 5 iron is 39.5" (so I assume +1.5") and it's +2.5 degree lie. Although I don't know swing weights on all the irons, I recently had a 60 degree wedge built and the clubfitter measured my PW at E4. Plus, they feel like sledgehammers. 

 

The high swing weight was great when I was 22, because with my strength at that age all that added weight helped me slow down my tempo and not try to kill the ball. Now I think it's just making me work too hard to swing the club. 

 

Right now I'm playing to about a 23 handicap, so I'm guessing that I'm doing myself more harm than good to have clubs so long. 

 

52 minutes ago, dry664 said:

 

 

 

 - Playing irons of E+ swingweights can lead to injury so avoid if possible

 

How so? Since getting back in I've had a little battle with tennis elbow and golfer's elbow. I'm wondering if this might be partially due to the heft of these clubs?

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33 minutes ago, betarhoalphadelta said:

How so? Since getting back in I've had a little battle with tennis elbow and golfer's elbow. I'm wondering if this might be partially due to the heft of these clubs?

 

It's a possibility. Main cause of golfers/tennis elbow that I know of though is hitting off mats (which we have to do a lot in the UK).

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53 minutes ago, betarhoalphadelta said:

I'm 6'5" and the little I know about them today is that they're Infiniti 603 irons with Nippon Pro NS950 stiff shafts. My 5 iron is 39.5" (so I assume +1.5") and it's +2.5 degree lie. Although I don't know swing weights on all the irons, I recently had a 60 degree wedge built and the clubfitter measured my PW at E4. Plus, they feel like sledgehammers. 

 

If they feel like sledgehammers, then they probably aren't doing you any favours 🤣

 

Theres a good chance the Infiniti 603's are a standard weight head, and if they are, just by switching to a lighter weight head you could get down into the mid D's while remaining at +1.5"

 

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7 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Try starting out with the wedges at the +2" (where the shorter length is going to be more problematic but weight isn't) and then use shorter length increments e.g. 3/8" instead of 1/2".   That will ease things a bit for the long end of the set where the weight is problematic but you don't really need the extra length.

I'm giving serious thought about the change to a 3/8" increment with my next set - the more I look at the potential build specs in my spreadsheet the more it makes sense.

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2 hours ago, dry664 said:

 - Take advantage of other base components to shift the swing weight in your favour, i.e. KBS Tour 120's are counterbalanced and can shift swingweight -3 points vs something like an x100. Midsize grips are another thing that can shift swing weight in your favour, as are white grips are they contain more pigment and are usually heavier. I've never been a fan of using counterweights like Tour Lock, but arguably they produce the same effect as as midsize grip

 - Just because you need longer irons, you probably don't need longer woods

I did some research and found that the Golf Pride MCC +4 Midsize was ~66-67g and the heaviest midsize grip I could find (albeit with the +4 in the lower section of the grip).  I've used this grip on a wedge and really liked it - may end up using this grip on my next build.

 

Like you I don't go longer on woods as it turns into the land of dimishing returns with lower accuracy and control for me.

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20 minutes ago, dry664 said:

 

If they feel like sledgehammers, then they probably aren't doing you any favours 🤣

 

Theres a good chance the Infiniti 603's are a standard weight head, and if they are, just by switching to a lighter weight head you could get down into the mid D's while remaining at +1.5"

 

 

I'd say it's time for new clubs. I think club technology compared to 20 years ago has moved forward quite a bit... And with my index probably even more for me than the scratch guys with the improvements in GI and SGI clubs. 

 

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15 minutes ago, toddmanley said:

I'm giving serious thought about the change to a 3/8" increment with my next set - the more I look at the potential build specs in my spreadsheet the more it makes sense.


I’ve considered this a few times and discussed with club builders:

- it won’t make your heaviest club any lighter

- your club gapping will decrease

- shafts won’t play as designed, relatively the shaft in your pw will play much weaker than the shaft in your 4I

 

If you take the 3/8” build theory a couple of steps further, you end up at an upright set of one length clubs, and I think that might be worth a bit of consideration
 

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13 hours ago, dry664 said:


I’ve considered this a few times and discussed with club builders:

- it won’t make your heaviest club any lighter

- your club gapping will decrease

- shafts won’t play as designed, relatively the shaft in your pw will play much weaker than the shaft in your 4I

 

If you take the 3/8” build theory a couple of steps further, you end up at an upright set of one length clubs, and I think that might be worth a bit of consideration
 

 

Not sure who you talked to but they certainly didn't understand the concept very well or at least don't have any real experience with that type of build.

 

3/8" increments will shorten the longer clubs and that will certainly lower the swing weight or MOI for the club assuming the head weights are not adjusted with the length change.   The point isn't to change the length and still try to maintain a swing weight matched set.   It's to change the length and let the swing weight drop because the original problem is that the swing weight is too high.  In fact, with standard weight increments in the head, you'll end up with a set that's much closer to a true MOI matched set of clubs than you get with const swing weight set.  

 

For most gaping will not change very much at all.  Even if it does, it's nothing some minor tweaks to the loft wont easily fix.

 

Shaft performance is really about head weight changes. As long as the difference in length comes from different degrees of butt trimming, not tip trimming and the head weight stays the same, the shaft performance will also not change noticeably.  

 

The use of 3/8" increments only has a little in common with single length builds.  Sure they both ease up the difficulty of the longer clubs due to the shorter length but for single length clubs it's really trying to fix a length problem, not a weight problem like the 3/8" builds.   Also the key difference is that 3/8" increments is something that works well with standard weight heads while a single length build needs specially designed and weighted heads to be able to manage.   So you're not going to be able to take those extra steps from one to the other with the same set of heads.

 

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