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I was listening to the Get a Grip podcast and Max Homa was saying that he thinks at least half the guys on tour would probably at least experiment with a long driver shaft setup by March. I'm a guy who has played shorter than standard drivers in recent years in the name of control, but seeing how many tour players are giving this a try, I'm curious if that will filter down into the amateur/recreational ranks. I know several manufacturers have had standard lengths of 45.5" or even 46", but it sounds like we might start seeing 47 and even 48" lengths. I'm basically set in all other aspects of my bag, and I like a good experiment, so I'm thinking I might want to give it a shot. A few questions for anyone who has tried a longer shaft:

  • Did you need to go to a lower-lofted head? I would assume that more speed from the longer shaft could result in higher launch. Homa alluded to that being an issue in getting fitted for a longer driver.
  • Compared to the shaft you used previously, did you need to go with a heavier one when you switched to a longer one? 
  • Did you need to do anything to adjust the swingweight?
  • Have you seen a significant increase in distance and how has your dispersion been affected?

 

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I made the switch about a month, and while I haven't had enough time on the course to make an informed decision about whether or not it will stay in the bag, I am cautiously optimistic. I for years pl

I am planning an over-length build in the next few weeks. Currently getting my bench set back up after moving. Using a Cobra Speedzone 8*-11* head, Hzrdus Yellow 65g X. Head weighs 181g with adapter a

I've been hearing some anecdotal evidence from good players that they're seeing quite a bit of extra distance without sacrificing much in the way of dispersion. Sure, for some people, extra length may

I am planning an over-length build in the next few weeks. Currently getting my bench set back up after moving. Using a Cobra Speedzone 8*-11* head, Hzrdus Yellow 65g X. Head weighs 181g with adapter and no weights. I have ordered multiple weights for fine weighting. The smallest OEM weights are 4g, so that puts my lightest possible headweight at 189g with them. However, I think I can mod them down to close to 2g each if I need to. I am planning on starting at 47.5" which is 3" longer than my gamers. I have also purchased an MOI Auditor to see how close I can bring the club MOI to match my current drivers. Total weight should be pretty close to my norm also. I plan to start an individual thread for the build and results.

 

BT

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I've been weilding a 48 inch for awhile now and, yes you will need a lower lofted head for the exact reason you mentioned. Launch increases tons, also, you are going to want a lighter/ stiffer shaft as well. My current sw is now E4 and total weight is 292grams, so the sw actually doesn't feel that heavy because the total weight is light. For me, I'm crushing this thing, easiest 20 + yards I have ever gained.✌️

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12 hours ago, vadersfather said:

I've been weilding a 48 inch for awhile now and, yes you will need a lower lofted head for the exact reason you mentioned. Launch increases tons, also, you are going to want a lighter/ stiffer shaft as well. My current sw is now E4 and total weight is 292grams, so the sw actually doesn't feel that heavy because the total weight is light. For me, I'm crushing this thing, easiest 20 + yards I have ever gained.✌️

 

This is something that I think will make it difficult for someone like me to do this type of experiment. I already play the lowest-lofted, lowest spin retail head that Ping makes, in the lowest loft setting (so, playing 7.5*, if the stamped loft is accurate, which I have not had checked) and I have a Ventus Black 6x in it. Since I don't have access to a tour van, it would be difficult to find a lower-lofted head. I know there are some lighter shaft options out there, but I do really like the Ventus Black, so a different shaft would be an adjustment and I feel like I'd be starting from square one on a shaft choice. I'd be interested to hear how anyone has dealt with these challenges in trying to build an over-length driver.

Ping G410 LST 9* (set to -1* Flat), 44.5", Fujikura Ventus Black 6x
Ping G410 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x or Tour Issue TaylorMade M2 Tour 18*, Fujikura Rombax P95x
Scratch SB-1 3-4 & 6-PW Nippon Modus3 120x or Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW Nippon Modus3 125x
Corey Paul 52*/Titleist Vokey Forged 58* K-Grind, Nippon Modus3 125 Blue Wedge shafts,  Titleist Vokey SM6 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x
 

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I did some preliminary testing last night once my bench was usable. I prepped the tip and trimmed the b u t t to give me 47.5 with the grip. I installed a Master Grip Classic Wrap Midsize (61g) using air and painters tape, then shimmed the head on with fishing line so that it was tight in the playing position. I only have the 6g and 18g weights that came with the driver at the moment, so I removed one of the screws from the weights to see what they weighed. It came in at 2g, so I started with only a screw in each port because I think that's as low as I will be able to go if I modify the weights I have coming. My ST180 Gamer driver is 44.5", 337.2g total weight, D6 with an MOI of 3025.9. The Speedzone with just screws in the ports @ 47.5" was 319.6g total weight, D1.5 (HZRDUS Yellow CB shaft) with an MOI of 3095.1. When waggled it felt a bit light, so I decided to see what I got with the 6g and a screw to mirror the two 4g weights I have coming. This brought the total weight up to 323.5, SW to D5 and the MOI to 3131.5. Considering the proper MOI for a player typically increases some with considerable length differences, this may be fine. Hitting it will tell.

 

As I said, this is all dry fitting and preliminary. I will epoxy the adapter probably today and get some more measurements later on. I'll probably start a build thread soon.

 

BT

 

Mizuno ST180 10.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 70 S @ 44.5"
Mizuno JPX 850 3w 14.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 43"
Mizuno JPX 850 7w 19.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP5 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

 

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For the 2020 Season I played my driver at 44.25" long, I hit it plenty far but figured this off season I would experiment a bit, plus I want to get fit for a new driver and it's hard to get fit if you're playing an inch shorter than most OEM's standard. I can't stand choking down on a club. I added the length gradually. After most of our state golf association events were over I went from 44.25" to 45" and played that for a while and had good success with it. This didn't require too much adjustment or changing anything with the head, I kept shaft weight classes the same. After our last state event in October, I built up an old Fujikura Speeder 661 Triax and built it to play at 45 3/4" The combo of the slightly heavier shaft and length had me have to remove the sole weight from my Adams XTD Driver (7G) I covered the hole with a small piece of lead tape and the SW is like D4 which is still a little heavier than I'd like but I picked up 6mph ball speed with that added length even at the heavier uncomfortable swing weight. Thinking I'm onto something I then go buy an Aldila RIP Phenom 50X, tip it 1.5" and don't butt cut it at all. It plays at like 46 3/8" and I've only gotten in maybe 10 swings with it or so at the range because I'm working on something with my swing, but when I connect it's got another 2-3 MPH ball speed over the 45 3/4" with not much loss in dispersion. 

 

If you're going to go over 46" most likely you'll need to remove the weight from whatever driver you're playing and I'd go with a light weight shaft just because it helps keep a similar overall weight/feel.  I actually went up in loft from the 45 3/4" when I built the 46 3/8" because in a 9* head I just wasn't getting enough launch, but switching to a 10.5* head gave me a little more height. I feel like you're going to need to play around a bit with loft and length unless you just happen to stumble on a great combo for you right out of the gate.

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I've played driver 46' inches back in the day.  It was a black Grafalloy x flex shaft and OG Cally ERC head.  The head felt too light so I put a small strip of lead tape and it felt a lot better.  I normally would play a 9* but ended going with the 8*.  Dispersion was absolutely terrible so that experiment lasted maybe 6 months max if I remember correctly.  Only upside was that when I did get into one, it would fly 25 yards further.  My handicap ended up going up because I was spraying it everywhere.  Nowadays I play my driver 45 inches and I'm happy with that.  Gives me the best of both worlds and I'm long enough for most courses. 

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1 hour ago, hybrid25 said:

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I've been hearing some anecdotal evidence from good players that they're seeing quite a bit of extra distance without sacrificing much in the way of dispersion. Sure, for some people, extra length may mean that you can't keep it on the golf course, but for people who hit the center of the face most of the time, there's a cost/benefit analysis (dispersion v. distance) that you can do, and some of us like to do experiments like this with equipment. 

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Ping G410 LST 9* (set to -1* Flat), 44.5", Fujikura Ventus Black 6x
Ping G410 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x or Tour Issue TaylorMade M2 Tour 18*, Fujikura Rombax P95x
Scratch SB-1 3-4 & 6-PW Nippon Modus3 120x or Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW Nippon Modus3 125x
Corey Paul 52*/Titleist Vokey Forged 58* K-Grind, Nippon Modus3 125 Blue Wedge shafts,  Titleist Vokey SM6 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x
 

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15 hours ago, vadersfather said:

I've been weilding a 48 inch for awhile now and, yes you will need a lower lofted head for the exact reason you mentioned. Launch increases tons, also, you are going to want a lighter/ stiffer shaft as well. My current sw is now E4 and total weight is 292grams, so the sw actually doesn't feel that heavy because the total weight is light. For me, I'm crushing this thing, easiest 20 + yards I have ever gained.✌️

 

 

You don’t necessarily need to go lower in loft AND stiffer profile in shaft. I actually think going to a shaft like a Smoke Blue RDX, Diamana TB or Ventus Red has given my golfers the best results when going longer. 

 

Going from 45 to 48 will be a huge difference for most. I start all of my golfers wanting to try this at 46”, then some move to 46.5”. 

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23 hours ago, 3_Jack_Par said:

I was listening to the Get a Grip podcast and Max Homa was saying that he thinks at least half the guys on tour would probably at least experiment with a long driver shaft setup by March. I'm a guy who has played shorter than standard drivers in recent years in the name of control, but seeing how many tour players are giving this a try, I'm curious if that will filter down into the amateur/recreational ranks. I know several manufacturers have had standard lengths of 45.5" or even 46", but it sounds like we might start seeing 47 and even 48" lengths. I'm basically set in all other aspects of my bag, and I like a good experiment, so I'm thinking I might want to give it a shot. A few questions for anyone who has tried a longer shaft:

  • Did you need to go to a lower-lofted head? I would assume that more speed from the longer shaft could result in higher launch. Homa alluded to that being an issue in getting fitted for a longer driver.
  • Compared to the shaft you used previously, did you need to go with a heavier one when you switched to a longer one? 
  • Did you need to do anything to adjust the swingweight?
  • Have you seen a significant increase in distance and how has your dispersion been affected?

 

Back in 2012, cobra released the Long Tom if any of you guys remember, and at the time it was considered ridiculous.

It played 48" but super light weight, the total weight of that driver was 269 grams.

The shaft they used was 50 grams Graffaloy Blackbird, and to get the proper swing weight, they had to go with a 445 cc head for weight reduction.

 

A friend of mine bought the Long Tom, and I gave it a try on the driving range as well as the course.

It really does increase distance, I also remember it having a very high ball flight, probably one of the highest I've seen. Youtube reviews at the time also showed gains up 20-25 yards by going light and 48". But having tried it, the only issue I had was it was very hard to control.

 

Because of the long tom, I tried making a 47" driver. It was using Titleist 913D2, with Diamana B series shaft. I was thinking how to get better dispersion. Swingweight was definitely an issue, initially came out E1 or E2, and it felt like swinging a sledgehammer.

I believe total weight is just as important as swingweight when building these long drivers.

I ended up trimming the Diamana B to 45" because I couldn't solve the dispersion issue.  It was a fun experiement though.

 

So if any of you want to try very long, as in 47 or 48, the Long tom's blueprints might be a good place to start.

 

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5 hours ago, 3_Jack_Par said:

I've been hearing some anecdotal evidence from good players that they're seeing quite a bit of extra distance without sacrificing much in the way of dispersion. Sure, for some people, extra length may mean that you can't keep it on the golf course, but for people who hit the center of the face most of the time, there's a cost/benefit analysis (dispersion v. distance) that you can do, and some of us like to do experiments like this with equipment. 

Actually, when I was younger (65 now) I used to game a 48.5" driver. What I remember of the components was it was a red grafalloy shaft with a trident 420cc head (not sure of the 420cc, but it was smaller than today's heads), and I could pound the heck out of the ball with very good accuracy. Once you learn the techniques of hitting a driver this length, it really isn't that hard. A regular 44.5-45.5" driver is better for me nowadays, but I turned a lot of heads with the distance that driver could produce. Driving a 300 yard green was not uncommon.

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I made the switch about a month, and while I haven't had enough time on the course to make an informed decision about whether or not it will stay in the bag, I am cautiously optimistic. I for years played my driver at 45.25". Late-summer I bought into the idea that playing something shorter was better. Although I liked the concept and enjoyed the shaft I was using, my overall driving data didn't improve in a statistically significant way. What I've realized is that my driving has been a strength of mine all along and that my misses stem from face angle issues rather than strike location variance. Always the tinkerer, I decided to go completely the opposite direction and see what results that brought.

 

So... I sold off my 44.5" shaft and replaced it with a completely untrimmed version of the same (Diamana ZF 60 tx) that plays at 47 6/8". My impact pattern has grown slightly larger but I haven't seen a significant drop in efficiency (smash factor) as a result. My ball speed jumped from about 169-171 to 178-184. I don't have a really great view of what that translates too out on a real course yet, but on a monitor I've picked up about 15 yards without increasing the effort of the swing. The misses are a little worse, but they aren't as bad as I had feared and my gut tells me the extra distance will more than make up for it. I did lower the loft and flattened out the lie (played the TS3 @ A1 previously and now play @ C1). Total weight comes in at 334g inclusive of my 62g midsize grips. Not sure of swing weight, but it doesn't feel outrageously heavy when swinging.

 

I am also interested in trying choking down an 1" or 1.5" as my "stock" shot for a touch of extra precision and then keeping the extra length in reserve for longer more open holes. Brooke Henderson seems to employ that approach well on the LPGA. While only time and data will show if the long driver fits me, my initial testing makes me think that longer clubs are, at least at the highest level of the game, soon to be the norm. Properly built up, it doesn't feel that different than a driver at standard length while swinging and as long as your swing is consistent enough to deliver center face contact, the benefits seem to outweigh the risks. 

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36 minutes ago, EDT501 said:

I made the switch about a month, and while I haven't had enough time on the course to make an informed decision about whether or not it will stay in the bag, I am cautiously optimistic. I for years played my driver at 45.25". Late-summer I bought into the idea that playing something shorter was better. Although I liked the concept and enjoyed the shaft I was using, my overall driving data didn't improve in a statistically significant way. What I've realized is that my driving has been a strength of mine all along and that my misses stem from face angle issues rather than strike location variance. Always the tinkerer, I decided to go completely the opposite direction and see what results that brought.

 

So... I sold off my 44.5" shaft and replaced it with a completely untrimmed version of the same (Diamana ZF 60 tx) that plays at 47 6/8". My impact pattern has grown slightly larger but I haven't seen a significant drop in efficiency (smash factor) as a result. My ball speed jumped from about 169-171 to 178-184. I don't have a really great view of what that translates too out on a real course yet, but on a monitor I've picked up about 15 yards without increasing the effort of the swing. The misses are a little worse, but they aren't as bad as I had feared and my gut tells me the extra distance will more than make up for it. I did lower the loft and flattened out the lie (played the TS3 @ A1 previously and now play @ C1). Total weight comes in at 334g inclusive of my 62g midsize grips. Not sure of swing weight, but it doesn't feel outrageously heavy when swinging.

 

I am also interested in trying choking down an 1" or 1.5" as my "stock" shot for a touch of extra precision and then keeping the extra length in reserve for longer more open holes. Brooke Henderson seems to employ that approach well on the LPGA. While only time and data will show if the long driver fits me, my initial testing makes me think that longer clubs are, at least at the highest level of the game, soon to be the norm. Properly built up, it doesn't feel that different than a driver at standard length while swinging and as long as your swing is consistent enough to deliver center face contact, the benefits seem to outweigh the risks. 

Great post man, and I couldn't agree more. A hidden advantage of going longer with the driver is if you're swing is off, you can choke down and you still have a 45/46 length, which phycologically will seem short. But when you are grooving your swing, it's all out on length!  In other words, if you have cut down your driver to 43.5/44/44.5 whatever, that's it man, your restricted to said length, and when you are really on, if you had a 47.5/48, well, it's all about the distance man!✌️✌️

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On 1/7/2021 at 12:36 PM, 3_Jack_Par said:

I was listening to the Get a Grip podcast and Max Homa was saying that he thinks at least half the guys on tour would probably at least experiment with a long driver shaft setup by March. I'm a guy who has played shorter than standard drivers in recent years in the name of control, but seeing how many tour players are giving this a try, I'm curious if that will filter down into the amateur/recreational ranks. I know several manufacturers have had standard lengths of 45.5" or even 46", but it sounds like we might start seeing 47 and even 48" lengths. I'm basically set in all other aspects of my bag, and I like a good experiment, so I'm thinking I might want to give it a shot. A few questions for anyone who has tried a longer shaft:

  • Did you need to go to a lower-lofted head? I would assume that more speed from the longer shaft could result in higher launch. Homa alluded to that being an issue in getting fitted for a longer driver.
  • Compared to the shaft you used previously, did you need to go with a heavier one when you switched to a longer one? 
  • Did you need to do anything to adjust the swingweight?
  • Have you seen a significant increase in distance and how has your dispersion been affected?

 

Call way fitting room did a podcast on this, and they concluded you needed a lower lofted head, lighter swig weight, and tip the longer shaft 2”. They found dispersion was good, distance was up, but they assumed some of that was driving range swing groove affect. 

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29 minutes ago, drscott266 said:

Call way fitting room did a podcast on this, and they concluded you needed a lower lofted head, lighter swig weight, and tip the longer shaft 2”. They found dispersion was good, distance was up, but they assumed some of that was driving range swing groove affect. 

This may be a dumb question, but how would you get it to 47-48” if you tip it 2”? Aren’t uncut shafts usually 46”? If you cut 2” off the tip, even with head/adapter, I think you’d only get to about 46-46.5”. Are they suggesting a butt extension or something?

Ping G410 LST 9* (set to -1* Flat), 44.5", Fujikura Ventus Black 6x
Ping G410 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x or Tour Issue TaylorMade M2 Tour 18*, Fujikura Rombax P95x
Scratch SB-1 3-4 & 6-PW Nippon Modus3 120x or Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW Nippon Modus3 125x
Corey Paul 52*/Titleist Vokey Forged 58* K-Grind, Nippon Modus3 125 Blue Wedge shafts,  Titleist Vokey SM6 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x
 

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1 minute ago, 3_Jack_Par said:

This may be a dumb question, but how would you get it to 47-48” if you tip it 2”? Aren’t uncut shafts usually 46”? If you cut 2” off the tip, even with head/adapter, I think you’d only get to about 46-46.5”. Are they suggesting a butt extension or something?

Not sure, but the club head adds an inch typically I know. Just passing along what I heard, as the big take away was dispersion wasn’t worse at all. However, they admitted they were not hitting once every 15 min like on a real course. I knew you would have to lighten head, but the tipping was news to me too. I also was unaware of loft change, but apparently launch goes way up the longer you get. 

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I have experimented with ultra light weight driver shaft to gain some distance. Moved on from that to a Proforce V2 at 46.25 inches in a Ping G410. Only .5 inch over but still took a 14 gram weight out and but a 4 and 8 gram weight in the draw and fade setting to roughly maintain the swing weight. Curious if the longer length will offset the slightly lower mass. 

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I used to go by the old LD driver building rules, “for every extra inch go up a flex and down a degree in loft.”  Well I never built one I could hit.

 

This year for the heck of it I took a full length standard Paderson Velocity at my normal flex and put it on my 9 degree Ping G400max which I picked up just for this ( normally I play that head in 10.5).  BOOM!!  I destroy it, the carry distance and height is amazing.  So it came out to 47.5” and I hit it so straight I could actually game it if I got used to it.

 

So basically I went against all LD driver build wisdom and built an LD club that works.

 

In regards to removing head weight, just remember that the lighter head will make the shaft ply stiffer.

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9 hours ago, Typhoon1992 said:

In regards to removing head weight, just remember that the lighter head will make the shaft ply stiffer.

That's a good point -- I wonder if that different head weight would essentially make it so you don't actually need to find a stiffer shaft, since it would play stiffer because of the lighter head?

Ping G410 LST 9* (set to -1* Flat), 44.5", Fujikura Ventus Black 6x
Ping G410 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x or Tour Issue TaylorMade M2 Tour 18*, Fujikura Rombax P95x
Scratch SB-1 3-4 & 6-PW Nippon Modus3 120x or Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW Nippon Modus3 125x
Corey Paul 52*/Titleist Vokey Forged 58* K-Grind, Nippon Modus3 125 Blue Wedge shafts,  Titleist Vokey SM6 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x
 

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I keep meaning to take the back weight out of my Ping and see the difference but haven’t yet.  We have a GC2 Quad so it would be a cool experiment.  I always see people on here talking about changing out weights for ball flight and then can’t hit the club, then they cut it down etc.... the problem is they forgot the added or subtracted head weight will effect shaft flex.

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I started a separate thread on my build. 

 

BT

 

 

 

 

 

Mizuno ST180 10.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 70 S @ 44.5"
Mizuno JPX 850 3w 14.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 43"
Mizuno JPX 850 7w 19.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP5 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

 

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On 1/8/2021 at 9:04 PM, 3_Jack_Par said:

This may be a dumb question, but how would you get it to 47-48” if you tip it 2”? Aren’t uncut shafts usually 46”? If you cut 2” off the tip, even with head/adapter, I think you’d only get to about 46-46.5”. Are they suggesting a butt extension or something?

There ARE certain shafts (typically LD versions) that come stock raw length as 48". That gives you some room for tipping. Have to google long drive shafts to find them.

 

BT

 

Mizuno ST180 10.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 70 S @ 44.5"
Mizuno JPX 850 3w 14.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 43"
Mizuno JPX 850 7w 19.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP5 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

 

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The HZRDUS Yellow 6.5 I have doesn't feel too stiff or soft with the headweight at 192g. When I was doing the F7 (194g) build with the Copper Mamba 70 TX, I noticed it getting a bit softer as I started shortening the club. I have it at 44.5" now and the head weight is a little over 212g. It feels fine, but then I typically like a shaft in the 265cpm (b u t t) range at 44.5".

 

BT

 

Mizuno ST180 10.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 70 S @ 44.5"
Mizuno JPX 850 3w 14.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 43"
Mizuno JPX 850 7w 19.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP5 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

 

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I'm taking the plunge. I've got a Ventus Black 6x ordered that is going to be tipped a half inch, and trimmed so it plays 47" in my current driver. I'm going to try it in my G410 LST head with the weight removed and we'll see how that goes for swingweight and launch.

Ping G410 LST 9* (set to -1* Flat), 44.5", Fujikura Ventus Black 6x
Ping G410 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x or Tour Issue TaylorMade M2 Tour 18*, Fujikura Rombax P95x
Scratch SB-1 3-4 & 6-PW Nippon Modus3 120x or Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW Nippon Modus3 125x
Corey Paul 52*/Titleist Vokey Forged 58* K-Grind, Nippon Modus3 125 Blue Wedge shafts,  Titleist Vokey SM6 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x
 

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I plan on re-building my callaway epic flash this spring. I may not go full overlength, thinking going 46-46.5". I am going to loft down my 3 wood from 15* down to 14* or even 13* with a 43.5"  60-65 gram shaft. My idea is to have a fairway finder strong 3 wood, and a driver just to hit bombs on wide open holes.

 

What are folk's thoughts on overlength shafts for their driver? Do you guys prefer counterbalanced shafts or just superlite shafts?

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I'm experimenting going 46.5" in a softer / lighter shaft (similar to what Kyle Birkshire does with his long drive club).  I didn't want to go too long as then headweight / MOI plummet in order to keep swingweight from getting too high.  It also requires an incredible amount of patience to swing a 48" driver especially in transition (which is not my strong suit) so I didn't want to create too different of a driver swing compared to irons.

 

I think the tenants to building a longer club:

  • lighter shaft to make sure total mass doesn't get too high (diminished return on CHS)
  • use as heavy a swingweight as you can tolerate and still find the center of the club (to keep head mass and MOI as close to where it is at a shorter length)
  • go down in loft as launch and spin should go up as you increase in length

Most shafts today have a very similar profile even as they increase in weight so if there is a profile you get along with, try a lighter version of that shaft.

 

 

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I got out last Thursday afternoon for a cool January round at Triggs Memorial in Providence. I took the new 47.5" Speedzone build and my ST180 which I have been using most of this year. I started the front 9 with only the screws in the Speedzone head (192g head weight - D5) to see how it would compare. Not many folks on the course, so I was able to hit both drivers off all of the par 4s & 5s. Carry was longer with the long driver and end results seemed to be around 15 yds longer depending on fairway contour. Flight was beautiful! High (but not too high) and piercing! Working the ball was more difficult, but I chalk that up to just not being used to hitting it. When I got to the back 9, I replaced the screws with the 4g weights I had ordered. This increased head weight by 4g and I could tell the difference immediately. It was definitely MORE heavy feeling, but not TOO heavy. I didn't notice any more distance or level of control, so the jury is still out on what weights are going to work best. Will hopefully hit it some more this week.

 

BT

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Mizuno ST180 10.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 70 S @ 44.5"
Mizuno JPX 850 3w 14.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 43"
Mizuno JPX 850 7w 19.5 - Diamana Kai'Li 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP5 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

 

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