2021 Callaway Epic Speed, Epic Max, Epic LS drivers (in-hand photos)

[SwooshLT]

4 minutes ago, bogeypro said:

I have one on order after my fitting this weekend.  The shape is much better than the others to my eye. 

 

I said above that the Speed head is a reincarnation of the R510 non-tp 330cc driver in all aspects:  Looks, feel and flight.....took 15yrs but I found a replacement 

[third-times-a-charm]

6 minutes ago, SwooshLT said:

 

I said above that the Speed head is a reincarnation of the R510 non-tp 330cc driver in all aspects:  Looks, feel and flight.....took 15yrs but I found a replacement 

 

If the speed had more MOI I would have bought it. It's around ~4500 which is the same as the mavrik std. I'm coming from a mavrik standard so my main point in upgrading wasnt sound, feel, or shape - but forgiveness on heel/toe strikes as well as equal spin on said mis-hits. I can live with the slightly 'egg' shaped head vs the classic looking head.

 

The Max LS gave me INSANE normalization of spin and distance on off-center hits, something like only a ~8yd difference. Whereas the mavrik standard and epic speed gave me a loss of ~15-20yds on off-center hits not to mention the spin differences that would result in hooks/push fades.

 

For all tents and porpoises, the Max LS really is a TD head.

Edited March 9, 2021 by third-times-a-charm

[jeffrey r]

14 hours ago, fishn said:

And maybe the Tensei blue too, anyone tried that? I, like swing33, am considering the rogue white, im10 but also the tensei blue. I think for me rogue or Tensei in reg or im10 in 50 gram stiff. Thanks 

 

As has been said, Tensei AV Blue is a nice shaft.  I picked up the 65 stiff and 65 regular from CPO this past November, and one or the other is always in the running to go into my driver.  [On that point, I just looked back and I paid about $60 for each AV Blue from CPO, but these would be about $100 if you bought one today on CPO].  Nice, stable shafts without feeling boardy.  Stiff not too stiff, regular not too soft.  I kind of lean towards whichever one is working better in a given head, but then the Rogue White or Speeder 661 or some other shaft will edge it out.  YMMV.

[bcflyguy1]

Instead of thinking about differences in spin from one OEM's driver model to the next (which are subtle to the point of being inconsequential for most players anyway), the better way to think of them from a fitting perspective is differences in their directional bias. For example, in last year's Callaway line the Max was the most draw biased, the standard Mavrik had a more subtle draw bias, while the SZ was the most neutral/fade biased.

That paradigm holds true for every major OEM's line to one degree or another.

[third-times-a-charm]

49 minutes ago, bcflyguy1 said:

Instead of thinking about differences in spin from one OEM's driver model to the next (which are subtle to the point of being inconsequential for most players anyway), the better way to think of them from a fitting perspective is differences in their directional bias. For example, in last year's Callaway line the Max was the most draw biased, the standard Mavrik had a more subtle draw bias, while the SZ was the most neutral/fade biased.

That paradigm holds true for every major OEM's line to one degree or another.

 

Except this year, Callaway put out a 'Max' head (the LS) which is the LEAST draw-biased of the 3 in the line, yet is more forgiving than the mid-draw model (Speed).

[golfboy1]

16 hours ago, swing33 said:

For you guys that have tested and now played some of these driver heads, what's the thought on the stock shaft offerings? Particularly the Rogue white 130 versus the PX im10 and the Mitsubishi MMT?

I got the iM10 with a 6.0 60 gram Hzrdus.... sadly it feels to long to to whippy..... now Im not sure about the Epic SPeed anymore.... maybe need more reps... or a stiffer shaft.... I hit it awesome in the nets and on the range too

[dmeeksDC]

11 minutes ago, golfboy1 said:

I got the iM10 with a 6.0 60 gram Hzrdus.... sadly it feels to long to to whippy..... now Im not sure about the Epic SPeed anymore.... maybe need more reps... or a stiffer shaft.... I hit it awesome in the nets and on the range too

I say  try another shaft, either stiffer or heavier or both. I do it all the time with Callaway drivers, along with adding weight to the head, and it has worked out really well. Light shafts and light head and I am all over the map. Get the head to about 198-200g and a shaft in the 70-75g range and for me it’s like a different club. 

[hawkgolfer]

4 minutes ago, dmeeksDC said:

I say  try another shaft, either stiffer or heavier or both. I do it all the time with Callaway drivers, along with adding weight to the head, and it has worked out really well. Light shafts and light head and I am all over the map. Get the head to about 198-200g and a shaft in the 70-75g range and for me it’s like a different club. 

This is 100% true for me and was the same way with the rogue SZ too!  

[SwooshLT]

2 hours ago, third-times-a-charm said:

 

If the speed had more MOI I would have bought it. It's around ~4500 which is the same as the mavrik std. I'm coming from a mavrik standard so my main point in upgrading wasnt sound, feel, or shape - but forgiveness on heel/toe strikes as well as equal spin on said mis-hits. I can live with the slightly 'egg' shaped head vs the classic looking head.

 

The Max LS gave me INSANE normalization of spin and distance on off-center hits, something like only a ~8yd difference. Whereas the mavrik standard and epic speed gave me a loss of ~15-20yds on off-center hits not to mention the spin differences that would result in hooks/push fades.

 

For all tents and porpoises, the Max LS really is a TD head.

 

 

I'm only going by actual on course performance and not monitor numbers or MOI parameters......flat faced drivers haven't worked for me in the past......also , for my needs a draw bias is probably a better fit.....like with the R510, the TP 390cc was extremely fade bias for me whilst the std 330cc head was amazing. 

 

Horses for courses?  

 

Adding to this , the feel/sound component is far better to me and if memory serves this Speed is far more stable /less draw bias than std Mavrik....again for me

 

But I'm certainly glad the LS/TD is in your bag!

[bcflyguy1]

4 hours ago, third-times-a-charm said:

 

Except this year, Callaway put out a 'Max' head (the LS) which is the LEAST draw-biased of the 3 in the line, yet is more forgiving than the mid-draw model (Speed).

Yes, but the differences in directional bias hold true.

[fishn]

6 hours ago, jeffrey r said:

 

As has been said, Tensei AV Blue is a nice shaft.  I picked up the 65 stiff and 65 regular from CPO this past November, and one or the other is always in the running to go into my driver.  [On that point, I just looked back and I paid about $60 for each AV Blue from CPO, but these would be about $100 if you bought one today on CPO].  Nice, stable shafts without feeling boardy.  Stiff not too stiff, regular not too soft.  I kind of lean towards whichever one is working better in a given head, but then the Rogue White or Speeder 661 or some other shaft will edge it out.  YMMV.

What do you like better about the rogue white? That is one I am considering. Thanks for responding I appreciate it 

[jeffrey r]

56 minutes ago, fishn said:

What do you like better about the rogue white? That is one I am considering. Thanks for responding I appreciate it 

 

Not so much “better”, but just a bit better for me.  The Rogue White 60 was an outstanding stock shaft with the Mavrik drivers, and I kept the stiff and regular when I got rid of the Mavriks.  It loads well for my swing, and has some kick and feel of loading, without being whippy at all (or boardy for that matter).  YMMV, but it reminds me of the “blue” drivers like the Tensei Blue, Blueboard, etc., but just a bit more stable and lower spin.  Tensei is a great shaft though, and blue or orange should fit a wide range of golfers. 

[fishn]

Thanks Jeffrey 

[dmeeksDC]

4 hours ago, jeffrey r said:

 

Not so much “better”, but just a bit better for me.  The Rogue White 60 was an outstanding stock shaft with the Mavrik drivers, and I kept the stiff and regular when I got rid of the Mavriks.  It loads well for my swing, and has some kick and feel of loading, without being whippy at all (or boardy for that matter).  YMMV, but it reminds me of the “blue” drivers like the Tensei Blue, Blueboard, etc., but just a bit more stable and lower spin.  Tensei is a great shaft though, and blue or orange should fit a wide range of golfers. 

That’s a tough one. I’ve got both and they’re two of my favorite shafts. They feel different but I also like I could play either and driver performance (EFSZ and B21 heads) would be similar. Rogue White feels a bit more lively to me, but by that I am not saying the Tensei AV Blue is dead. It’s fun to play, very smooth, feels like the clubhead is staying right on target. I sense more “action” in the Rogue White. I have it in 60-gram S and I got the Tensei because it is a 75 S.
 

Right now I’m playing the Tensei because it feels like a Diamana to me and the heavier weight is working so I’m not messing with it. If you made me pick one as an all-arounder I’d go Tensei mainly because I go for mid-mid shafts. 

[gridironesq]

11 hours ago, dmeeksDC said:

I say  try another shaft, either stiffer or heavier or both. I do it all the time with Callaway drivers, along with adding weight to the head, and it has worked out really well. Light shafts and light head and I am all over the map. Get the head to about 198-200g and a shaft in the 70-75g range and for me it’s like a different club. 

Received my LS and even though I ordered it .5” under with std D3 swing weight it came in at D2 and really just feels light.  Called Callaway and they are sending me a 16g weight to replace the 13g stock LS weight.  Hopefully that will solve the problem.  If not, where should I add lead tape?  Thanks for all help.  

[dmeeksDC]

7 hours ago, gridironesq said:

Received my LS and even though I ordered it .5” under with std D3 swing weight it came in at D2 and really just feels light.  Called Callaway and they are sending me a 16g weight to replace the 13g stock LS weight.  Hopefully that will solve the problem.  If not, where should I add lead tape?  Thanks for all help.  

You asked and I am a freak about driver weight so here you go. This is what I do, not the only way to do it, but I learned this on wrx. I add lead tape on the sole at the rear of the driver, increasing the weight roughly two swingweights at a time and then I test it. I’d say 6-10 grams is max I have added in the rear. 
 

If still too light, I will also cut a strip in half and apply on the sole near the face — half toward the toe, half toward the heel, again two swingweights at a time. (I can’t really notice a one swingweight increase). Sometimes this part is not needed, depends on the head. All by how it feels and am I hitting the ball in the middle of the face? 

When I get it how I want it I replace the lead tape at the rear with a heavier weight. So if the lead tape total is 8g in the rear, I get a weight 8g heavier than the one already installed. Easy to order online.
 

If I have added lead tape near the face, say 4g, I will often leave it. If I am sure this is how I want it, I also have removed that tape and replaced with 4g of hotmelt in the head near the face. But remember, hotmelt is permanent, so I am careful with it. I’ve never added more than 4g hotmelt and more often it is 2. A side benefit of 2-4g hotmelt is it makes the driver sound fantastic.

 

Really the most I’ve added is about 10g total. Depends on feel. If the driver launches well already and I am not looking to make it spin more, I don’t necessarily want all the additional weight in the rear, so that’s why I put some near the face. For me the lead tape is mostly a pathway to the permanent setup, and when I leave some near the face it is because I don’t hotmelt clubs myself and I am too lazy to take it to

someone to do it. 
 

Wash your hands after handling head tape. You don’t want lead getting in your body. 

[jeffrey r]

All good info from dmeeks, but in reality, you should never really need to add lead tape to a recent Callaway driver.  Something like the Rogue and Mavrik are easy to change the fixed weights, and easy to pick up different weights on ebay, billybob's, etc.  And then, with the Epic lines, it is easy to swap out or add new sliding weights to get to your desired weight.  And same thing about picking up different weights off the internet (the old Epic driver sliding weights work as well in the new Epic Max drivers).  Unless you are trying to accomplish something specific with lead tape placement, I would just go with adjusting the actual weights.  YMMV.

[Jim53]

I picked up a Max LS 10.5 head and paired it with the Fuji Pro 2.0 6X out of my PXG proto @ 45.75" and it is easily 10 yards longer and I was all over the face this morning. I squared up on a couple and got over 15 or more yds past where I was with the Proto. I started with the slider in the middle and hit a couple pulls then put it almost all the way to the toe and just a consistent baby fade the rest of the round. Set the hosel adjustment at N / -1 and it really was very good. The proto was  a 9* head and I would have prefered a 9* Max LS but so far I like the combo just fine. 

 

I loved the proto head and really did not expect any more distance but it is there and the LS is most definitely more forgiving from this small sample. Being a slow older Golfer any additional yards is great.

[gridironesq]

4 hours ago, dmeeksDC said:

You asked and I am a freak about driver weight so here you go. This is what I do, not the only way to do it, but I learned this on wrx. I add lead tape on the sole at the rear of the driver, increasing the weight roughly two swingweights at a time and then I test it. I’d say 6-10 grams is max I have added in the rear. 
 

If still too light, I will also cut a strip in half and apply on the sole near the face — half toward the toe, half toward the heel, again two swingweights at a time. (I can’t really notice a one swingweight increase). Sometimes this part is not needed, depends on the head. All by how it feels and am I hitting the ball in the middle of the face? 

When I get it how I want it I replace the lead tape at the rear with a heavier weight. So if the lead tape total is 8g in the rear, I get a weight 8g heavier than the one already installed. Easy to order online.
 

If I have added lead tape near the face, say 4g, I will often leave it. If I am sure this is how I want it, I also have removed that tape and replaced with 4g of hotmelt in the head near the face. But remember, hotmelt is permanent, so I am careful with it. I’ve never added more than 4g hotmelt and more often it is 2. A side benefit of 2-4g hotmelt is it makes the driver sound fantastic.

 

Really the most I’ve added is about 10g total. Depends on feel. If the driver launches well already and I am not looking to make it spin more, I don’t necessarily want all the additional weight in the rear, so that’s why I put some near the face. For me the lead tape is mostly a pathway to the permanent setup, and when I leave some near the face it is because I don’t hotmelt clubs myself and I am too lazy to take it to

someone to do it. 
 

Wash your hands after handling head tape. You don’t want lead getting in your body. 

Thanks for the response.  Since I’m getting 3 more grams from the new sliding weight that’s being mailed out today, I think some lead tape will be used if I need anything further.  I was guessing to apply it exactly as you described.  Hopefully I won’t need it.  

[noodle3872]

2 hours ago, gridironesq said:

Thanks for the response.  Since I’m getting 3 more grams from the new sliding weight that’s being mailed out today, I think some lead tape will be used if I need anything further.  I was guessing to apply it exactly as you described.  Hopefully I won’t need it.  

3 grams of head weight will add close to 1.5 SW points to your club. 

[Audi A-Fore]

I have the Max 10.5 w/ the weight on the toe-side, Smoke 6.0 and it's one of the straightest drivers I've hit in a long time. It just goes and it wants to go straight. I personally love the feel/sound of it - solid, sharp, not too tinny. Shaft is solid my SS is in the 95-97 range. This is all eyeball test. 

 

I'm heading in this weekend to get fully fitted, I'm looking to dial in the shaft and head combo that works best for me in terms of spin and dispersion. I'll be comparing vs. the Speed and maybe the LS. The caveat is that I typically hit high launch, low spin, so the Max LS is prob out of it. We'll see. 

 

Note - also tried the Tsi2, couldn't get the shaft and head to the spin rates I needed. The G425 was not a match, just not as much speed and the sound was brutal. I came off a G410 that worked well, but a bit low on the spin there too. 

[SwooshLT]

2 minutes ago, Audi A-Fore said:

I have the Max 10.5 w/ the weight on the toe-side, Smoke 6.0 and it's one of the straightest drivers I've hit in a long time. It just goes and it wants to go straight. I personally love the feel/sound of it - solid, sharp, not too tinny. Shaft is solid my SS is in the 95-97 range. This is all eyeball test. 

 

I'm heading in this weekend to get fully fitted, I'm looking to dial in the shaft and head combo that works best for me in terms of spin and dispersion. I'll be comparing vs. the Speed and maybe the LS. The caveat is that I typically hit high launch, low spin, so the Max LS is prob out of it. We'll see. 

 

Note - also tried the Tsi2, couldn't get the shaft and head to the spin rates I needed. The G425 was not a match, just not as much speed and the sound was brutal. I came off a G410 that worked well, but a bit low on the spin there too. 

 

Please give Speed a look......I was very surprised 

[Audi A-Fore]

1 minute ago, SwooshLT said:

 

Please give Speed a look......I was very surprised 

I will be testing that for sure. I do like the look of it, also with a high toe miss, the deeper head may work better.  

 

What were you observations with the different heads? How did they compare in terms of speed, spin, dispersion, forgiveness? 

[SwooshLT]

16 minutes ago, Audi A-Fore said:

I will be testing that for sure. I do like the look of it, also with a high toe miss, the deeper head may work better.  

 

What were you observations with the different heads? How did they compare in terms of speed, spin, dispersion, forgiveness? 

 

 

I had opportunity to hit LS and Speed both outside and under different circumstances.....

 

LS was 9* lofted up and Speed is 10.5* lofted down......LS , to me, felt heavy and clumsy and I don't get along with straight faced drivers 

 

The Speed.......I was thinking it was a mavrik lateral driver and I didn't get along with it. This is more stable and straighter.

 

On course , I saw actual yardage gains with an ultra pleasing sound/feel and flight....

 

Caveat,  I truly enjoyed hitting my 10.5 gbb epic EXCEPT into the wind.  The Speed however doesn't have such issues.  Not the lowest spin head but proper spin to both stay in the air and cut through the wind. 

 

So for my needs , the Speed is an amazing club that's kind of a reincarnation of my favorite driver the R510 non-tp 330cc......setup/ address,  sound/feel .....

[Audi A-Fore]

2 minutes ago, SwooshLT said:

 

 

I had opportunity to hit LS and Speed both outside and under different circumstances.....

 

LS was 9* lofted up and Speed is 10.5* lofted down......LS , to me, felt heavy and clumsy and I don't get along with straight faced drivers 

 

The Speed.......I was thinking it was a mavrik lateral driver and I didn't get along with it. This is more stable and straighter.

 

On course , I saw actual yardage gains with an ultra pleasing sound/feel and flight....

 

Caveat,  I truly enjoyed hitting my 10.5 gbb epic EXCEPT into the wind.  The Speed however doesn't have such issues.  Not the lowest spin head but proper spin to both stay in the air and cut through the wind. 

 

So for my needs , the Speed is an amazing club that's kind of a reincarnation of my favorite driver the R510 non-tp 330cc......setup/ address,  sound/feel .....

 

R510!! What a classic. I gamed the 905R forever, the other classic in that generation, that's also why I favor the Epic Speed head shape. I will definitely be giving it a shot. 

 

I actually went with the Max bc the shop I was at didn't have a 10.5 Speed demo or stock one with the shaft I was looking for and I was in a bind. Thank god for 90-day exchange policies. 

 

 

[SwooshLT]

Just now, Audi A-Fore said:

 

R510!! What a classic. I gamed the 905R forever, the other classic in that generation, that's also why I favor the Epic Speed head shape. I will definitely be giving it a shot. 

 

I actually went with the Max bc the shop I was at didn't have a 10.5 Speed demo or stock one with the shaft I was looking for and I was in a bind. Thank god for 90-day exchange policies. 

 

 

 

 

Yes, that one! Also to add the LS is more fade bias than I need......but it could work for guys fighting a hook

[SwooshLT]

@Audi A-Fore I'm a car guy ; love the name play!

[Audi A-Fore]

2 minutes ago, SwooshLT said:

@Audi A-Fore I'm a car guy ; love the name play!

Nice... more accurately, it's Audi S-Fore now, but I don't think I can update my username. 

 

What shaft are you in with your Speed? I definitely have been surprised by the stock smoke iM10 6.0, I'm liking it so far. I've read the occasional comment that the MMT shaft is similar in profile to the Diamana Blue, but haven't had a chance to swing them. My 905R had a Diamana Blueboard in it, so I've had an affinity for that shaft since then. I also have a GD AD BB-6 sitting around if I'm in need of a bit tighter dispersion.

 

I'm tying pretty sure I'll end up in the Speed, but will see Sunday. I'm interested to see what shafts will line up too. 

 

[dodgyman]

1 minute ago, Audi A-Fore said:

Nice... more accurately, it's Audi S-Fore now, but I don't think I can update my username. 

 

What shaft are you in with your Speed? I definitely have been surprised by the stock smoke iM10 6.0, I'm liking it so far. I've read the occasional comment that the MMT shaft is similar in profile to the Diamana Blue, but haven't had a chance to swing them. My 905R had a Diamana Blueboard in it, so I've had an affinity for that shaft since then. I also have a GD AD BB-6 sitting around if I'm in need of a bit tighter dispersion.

 

I'm tying pretty sure I'll end up in the Speed, but will see Sunday. I'm interested to see what shafts will line up too. 

 

If you can, you should try to pair your speed with an Autoflex. Obviously that’s not necessarily easy/possible, but the combo is amazing.

[SwooshLT]

30 minutes ago, Audi A-Fore said:

Nice... more accurately, it's Audi S-Fore now, but I don't think I can update my username. 

 

What shaft are you in with your Speed? I definitely have been surprised by the stock smoke iM10 6.0, I'm liking it so far. I've read the occasional comment that the MMT shaft is similar in profile to the Diamana Blue, but haven't had a chance to swing them. My 905R had a Diamana Blueboard in it, so I've had an affinity for that shaft since then. I also have a GD AD BB-6 sitting around if I'm in need of a bit tighter dispersion.

 

I'm tying pretty sure I'll end up in the Speed, but will see Sunday. I'm interested to see what shafts will line up too. 

 

 

Blueboard derivative......Tensei blue 65R AV 💙

I'm old and slothful but definitely saw a pickup with this combo..... 

 

S7 was my dream /retirement whip but along came Kia's Stinger for half the price , so I went that direction.....