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Should you lengthen your utility iron?


BogeyTime13

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I currently play modus 120x at +1" and 1 degree up. I'm really interested in getting a 3 iron ZX utility (felt amazing at the store). Question is, do you match your iron set in terms of length and lie? Do you increase the length w the graphite shaft? My 4 iron plays at 39.50" and the stock 3 iron is 39.5. Should I bump it up to 40.5 ?

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Get it as long as you want, so long as the length still works for your "iron swing" and the swing weight is manageable.  I have a 40.5" U85 2 iron. I'm thinking of going to 41-41.25" for more tee distance.  That might get my 5-7 more yards with this club (I'd really love 10-12) and hardly cost any accuracy.  My next club, a 22º 5 iron is 39.75". Current distance is pretty variable depending on roll, but average low 230's probably in normal conditions.  240 would be better.

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6 hours ago, BogeyTime13 said:

I currently play modus 120x at +1" and 1 degree up. I'm really interested in getting a 3 iron ZX utility (felt amazing at the store). Question is, do you match your iron set in terms of length and lie? Do you increase the length w the graphite shaft? My 4 iron plays at 39.50" and the stock 3 iron is 39.5. Should I bump it up to 40.5 ?


Typically graphite already plays longer than steel. For instance, the Srixon ZX5 steel 3 iron is 39” that plays at D2 and the ZX utility 3 graphite shafted iron is 39.5” that plays at D3, but the ZX5 has the same playing length for both graphite (recoil) and steel (Modus 105) listed on their website 

 

it would be a personal preference. Adding length typically will increase swingweight and effective lie angle which you may or may not notice. 
 

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8 hours ago, BogeyTime13 said:

I currently play modus 120x at +1" and 1 degree up. I'm really interested in getting a 3 iron ZX utility (felt amazing at the store). Question is, do you match your iron set in terms of length and lie? Do you increase the length w the graphite shaft? My 4 iron plays at 39.50" and the stock 3 iron is 39.5. Should I bump it up to 40.5 ?

 

In general matching the utility length to the iron is a good starting point but there are a few things to keep in mind.

 

1) sometimes the stock utility playing length might already be lengthened some over a comparable iron so it's best to base the adjustment on actual length rather than a relative length.    e.g. if you're playing a 39" 5 iron (a typical +1" length for a 5i), then the utility should typically be 2i length for that set or 40.5"

 

BUT...

 

2) The length should be further be adjusted down based on how well you can manage the playing length - the quality of the impact that you can manage.   Length adjustments to irons based on height and arm length tend to really be for the purpose of making the shorter irons easier to hit and more manageable.  But the long end of the set should be fit more based on mechanics and athletic ability.   So it's very possible that the length adjustment may not work as well for the long irons as the do for the short irons.

 

NO - the material (graphite vs steel) should NEVER play any part in determining what length you should play.

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11 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

In general matching the utility length to the iron is a good starting point but there are a few things to keep in mind.

 

1) sometimes the stock utility playing length might already be lengthened some over a comparable iron so it's best to base the adjustment on actual length rather than a relative length.    e.g. if you're playing a 39" 5 iron (a typical +1" length for a 5i), then the utility should typically be 2i length for that set or 40.5"

 

BUT...

 

2) The length should be further be adjusted down based on how well you can manage the playing length - the quality of the impact that you can manage.   Length adjustments to irons based on height and arm length tend to really be for the purpose of making the shorter irons easier to hit and more manageable.  But the long end of the set should be fit more based on mechanics and athletic ability.   So it's very possible that the length adjustment may not work as well for the long irons as the do for the short irons.

 

NO - the material (graphite vs steel) should NEVER play any part in determining what length you should play.

I understand what your saying about fitting length first, I guess swingweight could be increased without adding length and affecting dispersion, lead tape exist for a reason! 
 

The Srixon utility iron he mentions (ZX Utility) plays a 1/2 over the iron it would replace in a corresponding set (ZX5/ZX7). Maybe to increase swingweight and give more distance I suppose. The ZX Utility plays D3 in graphite at 1/2 longer than the ZX5, and the ZX5 plays at D2 at 1/2 shorter length . I’m not sure if the headweight is the same from one 3 iron ZX utility to ZX5 though?  If you played the ZX 5 1/2 over it would increase swingweight higher than D3 I’d gather.....  maybe D4.5-D5 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Drivingrangehero said:

The Srixon utility iron he mentions (ZX Utility) plays a 1/2 over the iron it would replace in a corresponding set (ZX5/ZX7). Maybe to increase swingweight and give more distance I suppose. T

 

I hate to be a cynic but more likely it's the same reason most hybrids/woods/drivers are longer than what would traditionally considered a good playing length - distance sells many more clubs than consistency.

 

Hard to say what the head weights are or how SW might be effected since the shaft can play a role in that.  But in general it's much easier to manage swing weight adjusting length down than it is adjusting it up.

 

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5 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

I hate to be a cynic but more likely it's the same reason most hybrids/woods/drivers are longer than what would traditionally considered a good playing length - distance sells many more clubs than consistency.

 

Hard to say what the head weights are or how SW might be effected since the shaft can play a role in that.  But in general it's much easier to manage swing weight adjusting length down than it is adjusting it up.

 

I am building a TMB 2 iron that had a steel shaft at 39.5 in steel, and I noticed the U500 with a graphite HZRDUS shaft Plays at 39.75...... wondering if that was a swingweight or a increased distance thing, to show it’s longer than the TMB ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

i play my irons at 1/2 over so I was planing on removing the XP 115 steel shaft and throwing in a PX Catalyst 85 gram shaft in it at 1/2 over to match my set. I do like the added swingweight, being that I play my HMB 5-PW at D4-D5 . I’m on the fence as wether to play the TMB with the Catalyst at 1/2 over and  adjust lie/swingweight  or just play it at standard length so I don’t have to adjust the lie and just add lead tape till it feels right. I suppose it applies to the OP question? Play what you can control I guess the answer is. If you can handle the added length with the added swing weight, go for it, if you get along better with the shorter length and would like more weight to have a consistency with your set, add led tape. 👍 I think I’m going with a 1/2 over personally on my build. 
 

I play all my clubs, hybrids and irons 1/2 long, but my driver 1 inch short, with a counterbalanced shaft, but added headweight ....... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it works for me. My dispersion suffers in the driver when it gets above 45 for some reason. I play it at 44.25 and  D4

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30 minutes ago, Drivingrangehero said:

I suppose it applies to the OP question? Play what you can control I guess the answer is. If you can handle the added length with the added swing weight, go for it, if you get along better with the shorter length and would like more weight to have a consistency with your set, add led tape. 👍

 

 

Exactly. 

 

Although, It's perfectly fine to start out a bit on the long side and test against shorter lengths by choking up  (readjusting the head weight by feel at each length tested). It's certainly easier than starting out too short and adding an extension.

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Would not go as long as a hybrid or fairway wood. Keep it to the standard (0.5in) gap between your irons. Irons are less forgiving than hybrids and woods - they need to be struck on the sweet spot with a negative AoA to perform optimally. Going with a longer than normal shaft will make it more difficult to strike consistently and will most likely influence a flatter swing with a neutral AoA. This may work off a mat or tee but you will struggle from the fairway or rough. 

 

I play my 3iron (driving iron) only 1/4'' longer than my 4 iron and rely on the lighter shaft to account for increased speed. It lets me swing it like an iron and strike it properly. 

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