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I see there is a fancy solvent for the Golfworks epoxy. Do I need the golfworks solvent, or acetone or something else work?

 

I put a shaft on the new 3i head I got and I don't think I prep'ed the shaft well. Second shot the head went flying. Guessing it's best to get all the old stuff out and start over.

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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Without too many details I could almost assure the failure was due to poor preparation of either the shaft tip or hosel.    Lots of videos covering the process which I’d have a look at but if t

Epoxy solvent is used to clean up epoxy before it hardens.  Is this what your referring to?

If you just want to clean up wet epoxy, use denatured alcohol.  Many just use a piece of clean paper towel.     Acetone is only to clean shafts before applying epoxy (or use alcohol). Or to sha

If you just want to clean up wet epoxy, use denatured alcohol.  Many just use a piece of clean paper towel.  
 

Acetone is only to clean shafts before applying epoxy (or use alcohol). Or to shape ferrules after gluing.

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Hybrid: TEE C721 22*, KBS TGI 80S

Irons: TM M6, 5-GW, Accra 80i S
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I was looking to clean up everything before trying again. I think I got everything cleaned, guess I'll find out when the head goes flying again.

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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Really the last thing I want to worry about is the head flying off. Now that it's happened, not sure I will feel great about hitting this club now. Awesome.

 

When this happened to one of my old irons, JB Weld fixed it. But shaft replacement becomes an issue at that point.

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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I used both heat and acetone, seemed to work out. I used a little more epoxy and I didn't put it on the shaft last time, so maybe that was my issue.

 

I am using the Golfworks Tour Set epoxy. Maybe I should have got the high strength? No idea.

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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Without too many details I could almost assure the failure was due to poor preparation of either the shaft tip or hosel. 
 

Lots of videos covering the process which I’d have a look at but if the shaft is abraded correctly and the hosel is clean and all old epoxy removed there should be little risk of failure with correctly mixed and applied epoxy. 
 

Wan

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And give it PLENTY of time to dry.  The strength of the epoxy really does take awhile to develop.  I don't have the chart at hand, but days instead of hours.  Plus the correct prep of course...😉

In my Datrek - DG lite II cart bag attached via Top-Lok to my Bag Boy - Quad XL - I'm decidedly brand agnostic:

PING - G400 Max 10.5 - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 5 R

Titleist - TS2 4W - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 6 RS TS2 7W - Alta CB 65 R

Cobra - Baffler 23* - Aldila NV-HL 65 R

PXG - 0211 (2019 version) - 5-PW - MMT 80 S

Cleveland - CBX2 50 / 54 / 58 - Rotex 

L.A.B. Golf - Directed Force 2.1 - KBS Tour - Press No. II 3*

Snell - MTB  Black

 

 

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It sat for 3 days before I got a chance to finally play today. I sanded the tip with 150 grit, wiped it clean with acetone, let dry.

 

I did the same this time, but a little more sanding. Also a little more epoxy. Hope for the best.

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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So here's a stupid question, is there a test I can do other that go hit one and hope for the best?

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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1 minute ago, lefthack said:

So here's a stupid question, is there a test I can do other that go hit one and hope for the best?


grab the grip in one hand and head in the other - twist as hard as you can. 
 

if it the bond doesn’t break then you’re good

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2 hours ago, lefthack said:

It sat for 3 days before I got a chance to finally play today. I sanded the tip with 150 grit, wiped it clean with acetone, let dry.

 

I did the same this time, but a little more sanding. Also a little more epoxy. Hope for the best.

In the notes section about their high strength epoxy, Golfworks stated, "The High Strength takes longer to set, and cures to 90% in 24 hours and 100% in 7 days. The club would be playable in 24 hours." 

 

So after 3 days you were probably at ~95% cured, so should NOT have had an issue.  Good luck on this next one holding in place as it should.

 

The only other thing that comes to mind would be, is there exactly the same amount of both parts of the epoxy; and are you mixing them together for at least a full minute?

In my Datrek - DG lite II cart bag attached via Top-Lok to my Bag Boy - Quad XL - I'm decidedly brand agnostic:

PING - G400 Max 10.5 - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 5 R

Titleist - TS2 4W - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 6 RS TS2 7W - Alta CB 65 R

Cobra - Baffler 23* - Aldila NV-HL 65 R

PXG - 0211 (2019 version) - 5-PW - MMT 80 S

Cleveland - CBX2 50 / 54 / 58 - Rotex 

L.A.B. Golf - Directed Force 2.1 - KBS Tour - Press No. II 3*

Snell - MTB  Black

 

 

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6 hours ago, 5baytjd said:

In the notes section about their high strength epoxy, Golfworks stated, "The High Strength takes longer to set, and cures to 90% in 24 hours and 100% in 7 days. The club would be playable in 24 hours." 

 

So after 3 days you were probably at ~95% cured, so should NOT have had an issue.  Good luck on this next one holding in place as it should.

 

The only other thing that comes to mind would be, is there exactly the same amount of both parts of the epoxy; and are you mixing them together for at least a full minute?

 

No, I got the "Tour Set" that gels in 12 minutes and "sets to playing hardness in 60-90 minutes". 

 

I said "maybe I should have gotten the high stength" and that has yet to be determined.

 

I figured I would give it overnight and give a twist. Hope for the best, I do have JB Weld should I get frustrated enough. 🤣

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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13 hours ago, lefthack said:

I was looking to clean up everything before trying again. I think I got everything cleaned, guess I'll find out when the head goes flying again.

Make sure you sand and clean (with acetone) the inside of the hosel too.

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I twisted it hard enough to get 2 more clicks out of my grip, so I hope it's good now. Snow and rain mix for the next week, so I might not get a chance to test it out for a bit.

 

Thanks again for the insight and feedback. 

Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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11 hours ago, lefthack said:

I figured I would give it overnight and give a twist. Hope for the best, I do have JB Weld should I get frustrated enough. 

You can fix a damn engine block with JB Weld, so make sure that's the forever shaft you want in that club, if you get to that level of desperation; 'cause it ain't coming out again without MAJOR effort, like cut it off and drill the rest out of the hosel.  Good luck when you finally get to hit it !

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In my Datrek - DG lite II cart bag attached via Top-Lok to my Bag Boy - Quad XL - I'm decidedly brand agnostic:

PING - G400 Max 10.5 - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 5 R

Titleist - TS2 4W - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 6 RS TS2 7W - Alta CB 65 R

Cobra - Baffler 23* - Aldila NV-HL 65 R

PXG - 0211 (2019 version) - 5-PW - MMT 80 S

Cleveland - CBX2 50 / 54 / 58 - Rotex 

L.A.B. Golf - Directed Force 2.1 - KBS Tour - Press No. II 3*

Snell - MTB  Black

 

 

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1 minute ago, 5baytjd said:

You can fix a damn engine block with JB Weld, so make sure that's the forever shaft you want in that club, if you get to that level of desperation; 'cause it ain't coming out again without MAJOR effort, like cut it off and drill the rest out of the hosel.  Good luck when you finally get to hit it !

 

Yeah, I don't think it will come to that. But nothing kills my confidence like the idea of my club head flying off into the pond.

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Taylormade M3 driver

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Lazrus 3 18* Hybrid 

KZG Forged 2-M cavity back 2-6

KZG Forged Blade 7-PW

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Tour "Percision" [sic] Milled TP-M5 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

 

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