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Project X iron shaft adjustments


CokeZero

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Ok I need to get about 10g out of the iron shafts for the wintertime. I'm a professional, 47 y/o currently not under contract and I do most of my own builds, I'm in PX 7.0 and in the cold it's just too heavy. I want to keep the tight hard X flex and have NO INTEREST in changing profiles, my thought is to load a 6.0 wedge shaft in a 7I for a tester and cut it at my standard length of 37" and see how it plays. Question is: what's the difference in real deflection between a 6.0 and 7.0 with a standard .355 PX? And does anyone else who's a hard loader have any experience with this? It's cold even here in SoCal and I'm slowly getting older, with the heavy 130g it's making me stand up on the DS a little and it's not getting all the way into the slot every time. My timing is still good but I'm really working for it and I want to keep the effective flex of the 7.0 at least in the 4-7 and keep the pattern tight and launch as is. I just need to lose about 10g so I'm thinking that 3 club hardstep is worth trying. I ordered one so I'm wondering if someone here has messed around with this..

 

FYI to the Coolio's don't put a bunch of noise here please. No I don't want to try A, B or C or do X, Y or Z but thanks. 🖖

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21 hours ago, CokeZero said:

Ok I need to get about 10g out of the iron shafts for the wintertime. I'm a professional, 47 y/o currently not under contract and I do most of my own builds, I'm in PX 7.0 and in the cold it's just too heavy. I want to keep the tight hard X flex and have NO INTEREST in changing profiles, my thought is to load a 6.0 wedge shaft in a 7I for a tester and cut it at my standard length of 37" and see how it plays. Question is: what's the difference in real deflection between a 6.0 and 7.0 with a standard .355 PX? And does anyone else who's a hard loader have any experience with this? It's cold even here in SoCal and I'm slowly getting older, with the heavy 130g it's making me stand up on the DS a little and it's not getting all the way into the slot every time. My timing is still good but I'm really working for it and I want to keep the effective flex of the 7.0 at least in the 4-7 and keep the pattern tight and launch as is. I just need to lose about 10g so I'm thinking that 3 club hardstep is worth trying. I ordered one so I'm wondering if someone here has messed around with this..

 

FYI to the Coolio's don't put a bunch of noise here please. No I don't want to try A, B or C or do X, Y or Z but thanks. 🖖


Constant wgt shafts change weight when we hard or soft step, so if the idea was to use 6.0 to save 10 grams, it cant be done "just like that", and we cant hard step the shortest clubs....

PX 6.0 is 120 grams and uncut they are 0.5"+ vs DG so a #9 is 37.50"
120 gr /  37.50" = 3.2 grams pr inch
If we hard step PX 6.0 2x we would get a shaft with a "comparable wgt " of 123.2 gram

If we we had to stay at 120 grams, but needed 6.0 to play more like 7.0, we can tip trim taper tip shaft like they was parallel tip shafts, but more that 3/8" tip trim often mans insert issues and a need for a ream job to modify the hosel to 0.370

image.png.9e772769e2bf351dd5c8e546d95f6b41.png

DEFLECTION Numbers 
Due to tolerances in production PX shafts might overlap like we see here where we find a 6.0 just as strong as 6.5 etc. (2 line of the same model = 2 shafts of the same model)

image.png.4c9a6e45a099c9a204322e515306597a.png

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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15 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:


Constant wgt shafts change weight when we hard or soft step, so if the idea was to use 6.0 to save 10 grams, it cant be done "just like that", and we cant hard step the shortest clubs....

PX 6.0 is 120 grams and uncut they are 0.5"+ vs DG so a #9 is 37.50"
120 gr /  37.50" = 3.2 grams pr inch
If we hard step PX 6.0 2x we would get a shaft with a "comparable wgt " of 123.2 gram

If we we had to stay at 120 grams, but needed 6.0 to play more like 7.0, we can tip trim taper tip shaft like they was parallel tip shafts, but more that 3/8" tip trim often mans insert issues and a need for a ream job to modify the hosel to 0.370

image.png.9e772769e2bf351dd5c8e546d95f6b41.png

DEFLECTION Numbers 
Due to tolerances in production PX shafts might overlap like we see here where we find a 6.0 just as strong as 6.5 etc. (2 line of the same model = 2 shafts of the same model)

image.png.4c9a6e45a099c9a204322e515306597a.png

Howard, thanks for the response. I'm not good enough at the tech so I'll just say what I'm looking for as a player: I've been in the 7.0 PX for about a year in the woods and irons, woods being the older plain PX Blue and the change has created negative deflection into delivery. Speed is up from 114 to about 120 and my pattern is tighter than it's ever been by far, and I've been pro since '95. I've spent the year working on a slightly different sequence and everything is on point but I need the iron shafts lighter.

 

There's a lot more speed and force than I've ever known and especially in the cold it's bringing me up and out instead of low and tight. I have a couple of months to dial this in before I start playing events and I'm very reticent to make any changes other than minor tweaks because it's that good and I know better. 

 

I can handle something with a tiny bit more flex than this 7.0 but the profile, balance and deflection has to stay the same. And I have to get it about 10g lighter so I can hit a cut straight blade four iron 230 apexing at 120 ft off a tight lie to a tight pin without coming out of it early.

 

How do I lose the 10g? Thanks again for the time. 

Screenshot_20200601-193028_YouTube.jpg

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6 hours ago, CokeZero said:

Howard, thanks for the response. I'm not good enough at the tech so I'll just say what I'm looking for as a player: I've been in the 7.0 PX for about a year in the woods and irons, woods being the older plain PX Blue and the change has created negative deflection into delivery. Speed is up from 114 to about 120 and my pattern is tighter than it's ever been by far, and I've been pro since '95. I've spent the year working on a slightly different sequence and everything is on point but I need the iron shafts lighter.

 

There's a lot more speed and force than I've ever known and especially in the cold it's bringing me up and out instead of low and tight. I have a couple of months to dial this in before I start playing events and I'm very reticent to make any changes other than minor tweaks because it's that good and I know better. 

 

I can handle something with a tiny bit more flex than this 7.0 but the profile, balance and deflection has to stay the same. And I have to get it about 10g lighter so I can hit a cut straight blade four iron 230 apexing at 120 ft off a tight lie to a tight pin without coming out of it early.

 

How do I lose the 10g? Thanks again for the time. 

Screenshot_20200601-193028_YouTube.jpg


Just remember that ALL parameters count here, so lowering total wgt can be done by combining several parameters, and we can also take care of ball flight / deflection, but you will need a ream job to 0.370 of the heads.

I Suggest using PX 6.0 Hard stepped once - Tip trimmed 6/8"
This way we only "add" weight equal to 0.5" inch, so on the paper, 120 gram became 121.6
...Can you live with 1.6 grams off target?

Grips has a tolerance thats often plus minus 3.5 grams.
As a pro, you are a volume user. buy a BOX of your favorite, and weight sort them all, pick the lightest for the winter set. (grip wgt tolerances can be used to even out total wgt progression from iron to iron who is 7 grams average in a classic set)

Combined, 10 grams is possible, and 1.25 shorter tip section vs std 6.0 should be enough to make them as close to PX 7.0 as can be.

I strongly suggest you take 1 club only as a test first, before you build a set. 

PX is made all the way to PW, so your set up in the short end becomes like this:

CLUB - SHAFT - MODIFICATION - FLEX
#8 - #9 - 6/8 tip trim - About HS2
#9 - PW - 6/8 tip trim - About HS2
PW - 6/8 tip trim - About HS 1

PS! if you are GOOD FRIENDS with a shaft dealer/distributor who has a large stock of PX 6.0, you might ask them to weight sort shafts for you and pick the lightest. There is always a tolerance on shaft weight, thats why some pay extra for DG Tour issue, so its more than the labels to it....

....but try one club first, feel cant be "calculated" on the paper....

If you need to avoid a ream job, 3/8" tip trim is about the max, and you can still combine that with HS1.

Edited by Howard_Jones

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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37 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:


Just remember that ALL parameters count here, so lowering total wgt can be done by combining several parameters, and we can also take care of ball flight / deflection, but you will need a ream job to 0.370 of the heads.

I Suggest using PX 6.0 Hard stepped once - Tip trimmed 6/8"
This way we only "add" weight equal to 0.5" inch, so on the paper, 120 gram became 121.6
...Can you live with 1.6 grams off target?

Grips has a tolerance thats often plus minus 3.5 grams.
As a pro, you are a volume user. buy a BOX of your favorite, and weight sort them all, pick the lightest for the winter set. (grip wgt tolerances can be used to even out total wgt progression from iron to iron who is 7 grams average in a classic set)

Combined, 10 grams is possible, and 1.25 shorter tip section vs std 6.0 should be enough to make them as close to PX 7.0 as can be.

I strongly suggest you take 1 club only as a test first, before you build a set. 

PX is made all the way to PW, so your set up in the short end becomes like this:

CLUB - SHAFT - MODIFICATION - FLEX
#8 - #9 - 6/8 tip trim - About HS2
#9 - PW - 6/8 tip trim - About HS2
PW - 6/8 tip trim - About HS 1

PS! if you are GOOD FRIENDS with a shaft dealer/distributor who has a large stock of PX 6.0, you might ask them to weight sort shafts for you and pick the lightest. There is always a tolerance on shaft weight, thats why some pay extra for DG Tour issue, so its more than the labels to it....

....but try one club first, feel cant be "calculated" on the paper....

If you need to avoid a ream job, 3/8" tip trim is about the max, and you can still combine that with HS1.

Wow, I really appreciate this Howard. I have a guy and can get what I need, I'm due for new heads and can order .370 no problem. If this tests well only other question is how would I start to do the wedges? Ideally I like them a little heavy in the hands and not loose. I don't like spinner shafts so would that be straight in 6.5 at least to start? 

 

There's spined 6.0 wedge and 7I shafts on the way already so I'll load those into an 8I & 5I until I can get a. 370 head and can do your trim. This should be about all I need, much obliged. You're a gentleman and a scholar sir 🤠

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8 hours ago, CokeZero said:

I can handle something with a tiny bit more flex than this 7.0 but the profile, balance and deflection has to stay the same. And I have to get it about 10g lighter so I can hit a cut straight blade four iron 230 apexing at 120 ft off a tight lie to a tight pin without coming out of it early.

 

How do I lose the 10g? Thanks again for the time. 

Screenshot_20200601-193028_YouTube.jpg

 

Do you realize the amount of bend that you see in the shaft in that or the vast majority of pictures isn't real?   it's an illusion, a side-effect of the image capture processes. You didn't mention it explicitly but I couldn't think of any other reason you'd share the picture.  Sorry if I misunderstood and that's not the case.   But bottom line is that too much loading of the shaft can only be judged based on what you feel during the swing and watching how the ball flight results change as the stiffness profile changes, not on what you see in a picture.

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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7 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Do you realize the amount of bend that you see in the shaft in that or the vast majority of pictures isn't real?   it's an illusion, a side-effect of the image capture processes. You didn't mention it explicitly but I couldn't think of any other reason you'd share the picture.  Sorry if I misunderstood and that's not the case.   But bottom line is that too much loading of the shaft can only be judged based on what you feel during the swing and watching how the ball flight results change as the stiffness profile changes, not on what you see in a picture.

 

 

We are not going here and I am not doing "that" ever again sir. I am a playing professional and I did this specifically with a burner account for specific information which I need for a specific reason. Thank you for your inquiry but if you put a loaded gun to my temple I'd never go into that in public again. 

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