Stuck Ferrules and Graphite Iron Shafts

[mgoblue83]

Hello Everyone,

 

I'm doing my first graphite iron build and I'm running into an issue with stuck ferrules. The shafts are .370 and I've confirmed the ferrules are also .370.

 

My process after tip trimming the recommended amount (same process I've used with countless steel shafted clubs without problems):

Tip prep to hosel bore depth (1 1/4in ish)

Apply a small amount of epoxy to the tip and use it as a lubricant to slide the ferrule on.

Insert the shaft into the club head and apply pressure to make sure the ferrule is seated all the way on.

 

The problem I'm having with these graphite shafts is that the paint layer is very thick and the ferrule is getting caught on the paint above the prepped tip. It literally won't slide past the prepped tip (I've applied a lot of pressure) unless I apply heat which risks warping the ferrule. 

 

The "easy" solution would be to grind more paint off up to where the ferrule would sit but I really don't want to risk grinding slightly too much and having be visible above the ferrule. Also, if I ever wanted to pull the shafts and use a different size ferrule (or sell the shafts) it wouldn't work. 

 

Has anyone run into this? Is there an easy solution I'm not aware of?

 

Thank you!

 

Edited January 27, 2021 by mgoblue83

[Stuart_G]

All you need to do is use some heat to soften the ferrule up.   Heat a cup of water in the microwave until it starts to boil then put the ferrule onto the tip but dont push it on yet.   Stick it into the hot water for about 10 seconds then push it on all the way with the hosel.  Should slide on very easily.   If it's getting stuck when you try it cold, it will likely not need any epoxy.

 

[Golfrnut]

As Stuart already mentioned, heat does wonders for expanding ferrules enough to get them on the shaft.  With practice, very easy to use a quick moving heat gun or torch to accomplish the same thing, just wouldn't practice on graphite to start.

[mgoblue83]

I ended up using a heat gun on the ferrule that got stuck but it slightly warped the ferrule when sliding on. The color ring in the ferrule ended up slightly tilted. 

 

Stuart, are you saying to stick the tip of the shaft into the water with the ferrule attached? Wouldn't the hot water mess with the exposed graphite or at least make it impossible to glue on the club heads without letting it dry first?

[Sparty4202]

I’ve used both methods and found the heat gun works the best for me...but be careful you only need a little bit of heat or you can melt or deform the ferrule. 

[Golfrnut]

6 minutes ago, mgoblue83 said:

I ended up using a heat gun on the ferrule that got stuck but it slightly warped the ferrule when sliding on. The color ring in the ferrule ended up slightly tilted. 

 

Stuart, are you saying to stick the tip of the shaft into the water with the ferrule attached? Wouldn't the hot water mess with the exposed graphite or at least make it impossible to glue on the club heads without letting it dry first?

 

 

No you just need to toss the ferrules by themselves in hot water.  They will expand on their own due to the heat.

[cwilk]

12 minutes ago, mgoblue83 said:

I ended up using a heat gun on the ferrule that got stuck but it slightly warped the ferrule when sliding on. The color ring in the ferrule ended up slightly tilted. 

 

Stuart, are you saying to stick the tip of the shaft into the water with the ferrule attached? Wouldn't the hot water mess with the exposed graphite or at least make it impossible to glue on the club heads without letting it dry first?

There is a big difference in the output of most heat guns and the temperature of hot water (like 150*+ versus under 100*). 
 

What others are recommending is similar to how you’d prep a mouth guard. The hot water is just heating the ferrule enough to make it pliable. 

Edited January 27, 2021 by cwilk

[mgoblue83]

4 minutes ago, Golfrnut said:

 

 

No you just need to toss the ferrules by themselves in hot water.  They will expand on their own due to the heat.

 

Let them dry off first? Or does a little water on them not affect anything?

[Golfrnut]

4 minutes ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

Let them dry off first? Or does a little water on them not affect anything?

 

 

Slight shake is all you need if anything, that little bit of water wouldn't effect anything.  You want them to still be warm when you try to set them.  Working quickly is key.

[Stuart_G]

46 minutes ago, Golfrnut said:

 

 

No you just need to toss the ferrules by themselves in hot water.  They will expand on their own due to the heat.

 

You can do it that way but I prefer to use the tip of the shaft to both stick them in and remove them from the hot water.  I'm certainly not going to stick my fingers in there 🙂

 

But no, the hot water wont do anything to hurt the shaft or effect anything as long as you make sure it's dry by the time you apply the epoxy to glue the head onto the shaft.   And the almost boiling hot water usually dries pretty fast.

 

 

 

Edited January 27, 2021 by Stuart_G

[Skhacker]

I always dry fit and mark them first. Then use a ferrule installer to hammer them on tight so they'll never move. The ferrules also have a countersink so epoxy gets in where it meets the club head. It sounds like in your previous builds, the ferrules you had were too big. Now it sounds like you have the proper size ferrules. Even though they're .370 they should still be snug. You shouldn't be able to simply slide a ferrule on by hand all the way to it's final seat. There should be resistance. 

[Golfrnut]

16 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

You can do it that way but I prefer to use the tip of the shaft to both stick them in and remove them from the hot water.  I'm certainly not going to stick my fingers in there 🙂

 

But no, the hot water wont do anything to hurt the shaft or effect anything as long as you make sure it's dry by the time you apply the epoxy to glue the head onto the shaft.   And the almost boiling hot water usually dries pretty fast.

 

 

 

 

Spoon...caveman...spoon  🙂

[mgoblue83]

37 minutes ago, Skhacker said:

I always dry fit and mark them first. Then use a ferrule installer to hammer them on tight so they'll never move. The ferrules also have a countersink so epoxy gets in where it meets the club head. It sounds like in your previous builds, the ferrules you had were too big. Now it sounds like you have the proper size ferrules. Even though they're .370 they should still be snug. You shouldn't be able to simply slide a ferrule on by hand all the way to it's final seat. There should be resistance. 

 

I know it sounds like that but it's not the case. In previous builds with steel shafts I would use epoxy as lube and would use quite a bit of force to hammer them into place but they always fit without a problem. With this graphite build the painted shaft is significantly larger than the .370 ferrule and it literally will not fit on the shaft using any amount of force. The ferrule fits perfectly onto the prepared tip after sanding off the paint but once it hits the paint further up it's a brick wall. With further research the shafts are made to .370 BEFORE paint and finish is added so it sounds like this is expected I just wasn't sure how to deal with it. 

 

 

[Socrates]

4 minutes ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

I know it sounds like that but it's not the case. In previous builds with steel shafts I would use epoxy as lube and would use quite a bit of force to hammer them into place but they always fit without a problem. With this graphite build the painted shaft is significantly larger than the .370 ferrule and it literally will not fit on the shaft using any amount of force. The ferrule fits perfectly onto the prepared tip after sanding off the paint but once it hits the paint further up it's a brick wall. With further research the shafts are made to .370 BEFORE paint and finish is added so it sounds like this is expected I just wasn't sure how to deal with it. 

 

 

Buy yourself a rat-tail file and file the inside diameter a little.  Or use a dremel attachment.  Problem solved.

 

Square hole - round peg.  There's always an easy solution.

 

[Skhacker]

1 hour ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

I know it sounds like that but it's not the case. In previous builds with steel shafts I would use epoxy as lube and would use quite a bit of force to hammer them into place but they always fit without a problem. With this graphite build the painted shaft is significantly larger than the .370 ferrule and it literally will not fit on the shaft using any amount of force. The ferrule fits perfectly onto the prepared tip after sanding off the paint but once it hits the paint further up it's a brick wall. With further research the shafts are made to .370 BEFORE paint and finish is added so it sounds like this is expected I just wasn't sure how to deal with it. 

 

 

Try one of these. Small hammer after marking depth. 
 

[BirdieBob]

As Socrates said file out the inside of the ferrule until it fits more easily.

I use a round file and place it in my drill...place the ferrule over the file and move it back and forth while the drill is turning the file.  This will remove a very small amount of the the interior surface and allow you to fit it better in these situations.

Epoxy in the hosel will adhere to the ferrule and keep it secure once in place.

Good luck!

Edited January 27, 2021 by BirdieBob

[e-man]

I use the file technique as well. Works like a charm. 

[GLF4EVR]

One thing made for a works very well.  It is made for sharpening chainsaws. 

[Socrates]

2 hours ago, BirdieBob said:

As Socrates said file out the inside of the ferrule until it fits more easily.

I use a round file and place it in my drill...place the ferrule over the file and move it back and forth while the drill is turning the file.  This will remove a very small amount of the the interior surface and allow you to fit it better in these situations.

Epoxy in the hosel will adhere to the ferrule and keep it secure once in place.

Good luck!

 

6 minutes ago, GLF4EVR said:

One thing made for a works very well.  It is made for sharpening chainsaws. 

Someone always has a better mousetrap.  That's right, the square hole.

[GLF4EVR]

32 minutes ago, GLF4EVR said:

One thing made for a works very well.  It is made for sharpening chainsaws. 

ERROR     One thing made for a DREMEL that works very well.

[olsonel14]

On 1/27/2021 at 9:34 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

You can do it that way but I prefer to use the tip of the shaft to both stick them in and remove them from the hot water.  I'm certainly not going to stick my fingers in there 🙂

 

But no, the hot water wont do anything to hurt the shaft or effect anything as long as you make sure it's dry by the time you apply the epoxy to glue the head onto the shaft.   And the almost boiling hot water usually dries pretty fast.

 

 

 

 

The boiling water trick saved me a headache tonight. Thank you!!!!

Edited February 23, 2021 by olsonel14

[Mr.I302]

All of these methods are good, I like hot water for most issues either installing or taking off.  I wanted to also mention another method for installation that has worked for me many times , use a little acetone or nail polish remover. Take a q-tip dip it in the acetone and swab the inside of the ferrule. The ferrule will slide right up to any position.

 

 

Take care and good luck to all.

[JCAG]

I agree with the rat tail file. Lock it in a vise and run the inside of the ferrule up and down it a bit. 1/2 inch file works as it is tapered.

[mgoblue83]

Awesome ideas!! Thank you for responding everyone.

[semarlor]

You've already gotten some solid answers (I've used the hot water trick many times) but don't know if anyone has mentioned a hair dryer same idea but doesn't get as hot as a heat gun. Whenever my wife upgrades to a new one I take the old one down to the garage just in case I need it. Works great! 

[mackepa]

On 1/27/2021 at 9:00 AM, Stuart_G said:

All you need to do is use some heat to soften the ferrule up.   Heat a cup of water in the microwave until it starts to boil then put the ferrule onto the tip but dont push it on yet.   Stick it into the hot water for about 10 seconds then push it on all the way with the hosel.  Should slide on very easily.   If it's getting stuck when you try it cold, it will likely not need any epoxy.

 

yup. Came here to say the exact same thing.