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Am I a Boob part. 2


JahSteve

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long story short... 

Was bequeathed a set of Ping Eye 2 BeCu's Irons (Uncle gave me the wedges a few months ago now and love them, still use them) ... Hit Irons at the range a few times a played them once on course. Liked them a lot! Hit ball straight and as i should yardage wise for lofts... 

Issues:

Stiff shaft- had to work a bit to hit them as i am a reg. shaft. Shoulder hurt pretty bad after all times using the BeCu's. Think i should go graphite... 

 

Was looking to re-shaft them so i went to golf shop to check out some shafts.

 

Obviously had to use newer heads to try shafts out. After a shaft fitting i came out wondering if i should just buy a new set instead of switching shafts on BeCu's. I assume the set (2-PW) will be better off (monetarily wise) if i keep the original shafts in them. 

 

The shafts i hit the best were Steelfiber I95's and Recoil's ( Dart, ES, 760 was dependent on OEM offering on head used), With the steel fibers coming out ahead.

 

The clubs used were JPX HM 921, Callaway Apex 21, Ping G425 and Titleist T300...

 

I hit (and felt best using) the JPX HM 921 and Callaway Apex 21...  With the Apex 21 coming out a hair ahead.

 

Having issues in the sense of Spending $1000-1400 on new clubs as mentioned above or just re-shafting BeCu's in the shafts i liked best. 

 

Fitter thought i should go with new clubs as graphite and the BeCu's would cost close to $400-500 depending on shaft. 

 

3 questions i have;

Should i re-shaft BeCu's or keep them original and use here and there?...

 

Go with either the Apex 21's or JPX HM's new or look a few models prior (HM 919, Apex 19)?

 

Recoils or Steelfibers (taking in account shoulder has been bothering me after hitting the BeCu's stiff steel shaft)

 

 

 

Any advice/personal experiences to help in making a decision would be great. 

Thx. 

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I would say if you found shafts and clubs you like, you don’t necessarily have to buy new. You could buy a comparable used set, or get a cheaper 2019/20 set rather than 2021’s. 
 

For me personally, I’d prefer to buy used clubs that have already depreciated or something from a previous year that’s discounted, same thing for cars.

 

For the BeCu’s probably better to leave them as they are and sell them, or keep them for sentimental value. Just my 2 cents.

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Have you tried a softer grip on the Pings?    
that could do what you need for a bit less.

 

put a softer grip on one and see. 
 

I’m not a collector but think original would appeal to one.   
 

Did you see the video about eye two vs modern Mark Crossfield (sp?) did.  

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EYE2s are great irons, and a 2-LW BeCu set is really nice.

That said, 1) the lies might not be right for you. What colour code are they, and what sort of lie in your irons do you like.

2) If the grips are awful, then you can't really get a proper feel for them. As mentioned above, swap out a grip or two, or wrap them in tennis racket grip tape (or something similar), and try them again; 3) the shafts might not be a good fit. The standard shaft for many years was a ZZ-lite, which was pretty heavy and tip stiff. 

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As a counterpoint, I've reshafted my Beryllium Copper Ping Eye 2 heads with lighter shafts, Nippon N.S. Pro 950GH.  I had elbow problems in the past, so I've also played graphite.  That being said, I've had no problem playing these Pings with steel shafts.  They're not my everyday set, but they are my favorite set.  Just my $0.02.

 

In regards to the Recoil vs Steelfiber question, I've also tried both shafts and much preferred the performance of the Steelfibers.  However, if you're looking for vibration dampening, the Recoils definitely played softer.

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Sell the BeCu’s and get a set you can play regularly... says the guy with several sets of backup clubs in his garage 😬

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54 minutes ago, 95124hacker said:

Sell the BeCu’s and get a set you can play regularly... says the guy with several sets of backup clubs in his garage 😬

Yeah, great point. Really not sure why people keep backup sets of clubs unless they have plans to actually use them for some purpose (hand down to friends/kids, have a separate carry bag/Sunday bag etc)?

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If you are concerned on cost, there are lots of cheaper dtc options. Sub70 can send you a demo club... 699 are great!

 

You can call or email them, Jason, the ceo can talk you through the right shaft options. 
 

id at least check out the dtc market before buying used clubs.

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1 minute ago, BallerNate said:

Yeah, great point. Really not sure why people keep backup sets of clubs unless they have plans to actually use them for some purpose (hand down to friends/kids, have a separate carry bag/Sunday bag etc)?

I have grand plans to dye my old Taylor mades gun metal blue for fun... my wishons are a little too beat up to put on the bst.

 

I should probably donate them all.

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As of  10/11/2021

9 Callaway Mavrk Sub Zero with Ventus Black 7X

13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

5-GW Srixon Zx5 with Project X 6.5

Sub70 286 54

Sub70 JB Low Bounce 58

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28 minutes ago, Myherobobhope said:

I have grand plans to dye my old Taylor mades gun metal blue for fun... my wishons are a little too beat up to put on the bst.

 

I should probably donate them all.

Gotcha. Yeah, I’ve sold the equivalent of 2 sets over the last 7-8 months (29 clubs). If I had those in my garage, they would just be taking up space and would make my golf addiction even less popular with my wife.

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Callaway Paradym X (15*) / Hzrdus Silver 6.0

Callaway Rogue St Max OS (21*) / Tensei AV Blue 75 S

Srixon ZX5 (4-PW) / Nippon Modus3 Tour 105 S

Cleveland RTX 6 Zipcore (52* Mid, 58* Mid) / DG Spinner

Odyssey White Hot OG 7 S

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2 hours ago, BallerNate said:

Gotcha. Yeah, I’ve sold the equivalent of 2 sets over the last 7-8 months (29 clubs). If I had those in my garage, they would just be taking up space and would make my golf addiction even less popular with my wife.

I borrowed one of those big titleist bags and have all my old clubs in them... I tried to move some drivers here but didn’t have much interest... 

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As of  10/11/2021

9 Callaway Mavrk Sub Zero with Ventus Black 7X

13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

5-GW Srixon Zx5 with Project X 6.5

Sub70 286 54

Sub70 JB Low Bounce 58

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You can go either way, however I recommend biting the bullet and getting a new set of irons.  Those BeCu are ancient, however you can always keep it as your back up set.  Buying a new set of irons with the right shafts will be an investment for you.  You won't have to get another set for 10+years depending on how often you use them. 

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TM SIM ti 15* - Diamana GT 80TX

TM Tour Issue Rescue 11 TP Deep Face Proto 16* - Ventus Black HB 9TX

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New Level 623-M 5-PW - MMT 125TX

Miura Tour 54* HB - KBS 610 125 S+, New Level SPN forged M-grind 58* - KBS Tour 130X

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24 minutes ago, Myherobobhope said:

I borrowed one of those big titleist bags and have all my old clubs in them... I tried to move some drivers here but didn’t have much interest... 

Makes sense. I’ve never tried the BST since I live in Canada...too many shipping issues right now. I sell all my stuff here locally, and the market for used clubs is red hot because of the increased popularity of golf and how many new people are getting into it. I’ve sold clubs I thought there would’ve been no interest in within a week...great time to sell clubs here!

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Callaway Paradym X (11*) / Hzrdus Black Smoke 6.0

Callaway Paradym X (15*) / Hzrdus Silver 6.0

Callaway Rogue St Max OS (21*) / Tensei AV Blue 75 S

Srixon ZX5 (4-PW) / Nippon Modus3 Tour 105 S

Cleveland RTX 6 Zipcore (52* Mid, 58* Mid) / DG Spinner

Odyssey White Hot OG 7 S

WITB on WRX

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10 hours ago, JahSteve said:

long story short... 

Was bequeathed a set of Ping Eye 2 BeCu's Irons (Uncle gave me the wedges a few months ago now and love them, still use them) ... Hit Irons at the range a few times a played them once on course. Liked them a lot! Hit ball straight and as i should yardage wise for lofts... 

Issues:

Stiff shaft- had to work a bit to hit them as i am a reg. shaft. Shoulder hurt pretty bad after all times using the BeCu's. Think i should go graphite... 

 

Was looking to re-shaft them so i went to golf shop to check out some shafts.

 

Obviously had to use newer heads to try shafts out. After a shaft fitting i came out wondering if i should just buy a new set instead of switching shafts on BeCu's. I assume the set (2-PW) will be better off (monetarily wise) if i keep the original shafts in them. 

 

The shafts i hit the best were Steelfiber I95's and Recoil's ( Dart, ES, 760 was dependent on OEM offering on head used), With the steel fibers coming out ahead.

 

The clubs used were JPX HM 921, Callaway Apex 21, Ping G425 and Titleist T300...

 

I hit (and felt best using) the JPX HM 921 and Callaway Apex 21...  With the Apex 21 coming out a hair ahead.

 

Having issues in the sense of Spending $1000-1400 on new clubs as mentioned above or just re-shafting BeCu's in the shafts i liked best. 

 

Fitter thought i should go with new clubs as graphite and the BeCu's would cost close to $400-500 depending on shaft. 

 

3 questions i have;

Should i re-shaft BeCu's or keep them original and use here and there?...

 

Go with either the Apex 21's or JPX HM's new or look a few models prior (HM 919, Apex 19)?

 

Recoils or Steelfibers (taking in account shoulder has been bothering me after hitting the BeCu's stiff steel shaft)

 

 

 

Any advice/personal experiences to help in making a decision would be great. 

Thx. 

Downside: the Eye2s aren't conforming or (likely) adjustable.  Upside: they're awesome, classic, oh so sexy as well as being totally customizable on the cheap.  If you F the USGA and R&A, keep them and play them 'til you croak...

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Wood PING G (18.5*)

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16 hours ago, JahSteve said:

long story short... 

Was bequeathed a set of Ping Eye 2 BeCu's Irons (Uncle gave me the wedges a few months ago now and love them, still use them) ... Hit Irons at the range a few times a played them once on course. Liked them a lot! Hit ball straight and as i should yardage wise for lofts... 

Issues:

Stiff shaft- had to work a bit to hit them as i am a reg. shaft. Shoulder hurt pretty bad after all times using the BeCu's. Think i should go graphite... 

 

Was looking to re-shaft them so i went to golf shop to check out some shafts.

 

Obviously had to use newer heads to try shafts out. After a shaft fitting i came out wondering if i should just buy a new set instead of switching shafts on BeCu's. I assume the set (2-PW) will be better off (monetarily wise) if i keep the original shafts in them. 

 

The shafts i hit the best were Steelfiber I95's and Recoil's ( Dart, ES, 760 was dependent on OEM offering on head used), With the steel fibers coming out ahead.

 

The clubs used were JPX HM 921, Callaway Apex 21, Ping G425 and Titleist T300...

 

I hit (and felt best using) the JPX HM 921 and Callaway Apex 21...  With the Apex 21 coming out a hair ahead.

 

Having issues in the sense of Spending $1000-1400 on new clubs as mentioned above or just re-shafting BeCu's in the shafts i liked best. 

 

Fitter thought i should go with new clubs as graphite and the BeCu's would cost close to $400-500 depending on shaft. 

 

3 questions i have;

Should i re-shaft BeCu's or keep them original and use here and there?...

 

Go with either the Apex 21's or JPX HM's new or look a few models prior (HM 919, Apex 19)?

 

Recoils or Steelfibers (taking in account shoulder has been bothering me after hitting the BeCu's stiff steel shaft)

 

 

 

Any advice/personal experiences to help in making a decision would be great. 

Thx. 

 

First, do not sell your Cu E2's.  You will regret it eventually.  Furthermore, there's a legacy factor involved.  They were bequeathed to you by your Uncle, have zero skin in the game (assuming you didn't pay for them).  IMHO, that is reason enough to not part with them.  Perhaps one day, the opportunity to "pay it forward" will arise for you as well.  Quoting:  "I like them a lot!".  

 

Not surprised the local golf shop would recommend new irons, they're fundamentally in the business of selling new golf clubs.  As newer is always better, insert multiple reason why.  Further, evaluating shafts in combination with "x" head does not always translate to ones not tested with a specific shaft.  Several factors involved that influence the conclusion.  If one wants new, then go for it, there is really no substitute if predisposed. WRX and this forum section is a testament to this thinking.  Although I contend the best value in golf equipment is buying "new(er)" and appropriate clubs one or two generations older.  Especially for us mere mortal, recreational golfers.  The "Pros from Dover" around here would vociferously argue otherwise.  I digress.

 

You did not state whether the irons discussed are Eye 2 or Eye 2+.  The most common shaft in E2's are ZZ-Lite.  Weight at 115g, tip stiff, stiff in keeping with Karsten's stiff flex for all philosophy.  There may have been something different in the + depending.  The shaft band will be the tell.  Calling Ping CS with a serial # and they can tell you the full specs and build date of the set.   

 

So making the assumption that they will be kept.  How can one go about the process of improving  playability.  And secondarily, achieve a measure of pain mitigation.  Running blind here because you did not offer up any information relative to age, abilities, preferences.  But reshafting solutions can be found, that will not break the bank.  Requires testing, evaluation, experimentation.  Benchmark what you have currently, and an understanding of the where you would like to end up.  A checklist of priorities to be addressed.  How often you intend to play the the E2's?  Perhaps as basic as reshafting to regular flex.  Perhaps shaft weight (and by extension overall club heft) is not appropriate.  Steel shafts in regular flex, soft tip can be found new and uncut as inexpensively as $50.00 (TT DynaLite Gold XP).  Older shafts, but doesn't necessarily make them inferior.  ProSoft inserts (inexpensive) installed for vibration dampening to address pain mitigation perhaps a solution.   Or if that's priority that requires addressing long term, graphite.  The range of possibilities to be found in acquiring suitable pulls.  Maybe not optimization to the "n" th degree of preference, but possibly 90% can be achieved cost effectively.  And that's good enough.  Don't concern yourself with devaluation, save the existing shafts.  They can be reinstalled at some future point if you decide to liquidate.  One factor that makes this exercise much more doable is if you can perform your own club work like installing shafts.  It's not that difficult, and quite satisfying being able to DIY.  Or find an independent club builder with veracity that would do the job for you.  With the components that you would supply.  It's all possible if you are willing to work through the steps in the process.  

 

By way of relevancy.  I acquired a set of Ping BeNi ISI irons last year.  The z-z65 stiff shafts were not appropriate for my swing and game.  I reshafted them to regular flex, soft tip, 115 gram steel shafts.  (I don't have joint pain issues that require mitigation).  The playability improved dramatically.  Without getting into all the particulars of the build.  Only reshafted the 6 iron - SW, the clubs that are bagged.  I'm a "seasoned" golfer of average abilities.  My expectations are modest.  I don't need to hit a 4 iron 175 yards.  I utilize other implements.  Don't require distance in the absolute, simply consistency of distance.  From 150 yards and in, the ISI's are superb.  Tight dispersion, directional control, of sufficient heft to maintain tempo without becoming ponderous.  Because I'm able to swing them better, make improved contact, and relative distance is not compromised.  They may be low tech comparatively, but match my preference for an iron.  My total investment in the entirety ~ $300.  NTM, they're retro cool.  Not bad for 20+ year old irons many would label as antiquated and outdated.  They do what I need them to do.   With a good swing.  The heretofore front line set is on hiatus. 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

First, do not sell your Cu E2's.  You will regret it eventually.  Furthermore, there's a legacy factor involved.  They were bequeathed to you by your Uncle, have zero skin in the game (assuming you didn't pay for them).  IMHO, that is reason enough to not part with them.  Perhaps one day, the opportunity to "pay it forward" will arise for you as well.  Quoting:  "I like them a lot!".  

 

Not surprised the local golf shop would recommend new irons, they're fundamentally in the business of selling new golf clubs.  As newer is always better, insert multiple reason why.  Further, evaluating shafts in combination with "x" head does not always translate to ones not tested with a specific shaft.  Several factors involved that influence the conclusion.  If one wants new, then go for it, there is really no substitute if predisposed. WRX and this forum section is a testament to this thinking.  Although I contend the best value in golf equipment is buying "new(er)" and appropriate clubs one or two generations older.  Especially for us mere mortal, recreational golfers.  The "Pros from Dover" around here would vociferously argue otherwise.  I digress.

 

You did not state whether the irons discussed are Eye 2 or Eye 2+.  The most common shaft in E2's are ZZ-Lite.  Weight at 115g, tip stiff, stiff in keeping with Karsten's stiff flex for all philosophy.  There may have been something different in the + depending.  The shaft band will be the tell.  Calling Ping CS with a serial # and they can tell you the full specs and build date of the set.   

 

So making the assumption that they will be kept.  How can one go about the process of improving  playability.  And secondarily, achieve a measure of pain mitigation.  Running blind here because you did not offer up any information relative to age, abilities, preferences.  But reshafting solutions can be found, that will not break the bank.  Requires testing, evaluation, experimentation.  Benchmark what you have currently, and an understanding of the where you would like to end up.  A checklist of priorities to be addressed.  How often you intend to play the the E2's?  Perhaps as basic as reshafting to regular flex.  Perhaps shaft weight (and by extension overall club heft) is not appropriate.  Steel shafts in regular flex, soft tip can be found new and uncut as inexpensively as $50.00 (TT DynaLite Gold XP).  Older shafts, but doesn't necessarily make them inferior.  ProSoft inserts (inexpensive) installed for vibration dampening to address pain mitigation perhaps a solution.   Or if that's priority that requires addressing long term, graphite.  The range of possibilities to be found in acquiring suitable pulls.  Maybe not optimization to the "n" th degree of preference, but possibly 90% can be achieved cost effectively.  And that's good enough.  Don't concern yourself with devaluation, save the existing shafts.  They can be reinstalled at some future point if you decide to liquidate.  One factor that makes this exercise much more doable is if you can perform your own club work like installing shafts.  It's not that difficult, and quite satisfying being able to DIY.  Or find an independent club builder with veracity that would do the job for you.  With the components that you would supply.  It's all possible if you are willing to work through the steps in the process.  

 

By way of relevancy.  I acquired a set of Ping BeNi ISI irons last year.  The z-z65 stiff shafts were not appropriate for my swing and game.  I reshafted them to regular flex, soft tip, 115 gram steel shafts.  (I don't have joint pain issues that require mitigation).  The playability improved dramatically.  Without getting into all the particulars of the build.  Only reshafted the 6 iron - SW, the clubs that are bagged.  I'm a "seasoned" golfer of average abilities.  My expectations are modest.  I don't need to hit a 4 iron 175 yards.  I utilize other implements.  Don't require distance in the absolute, simply consistency of distance.  From 150 yards and in, the ISI's are superb.  Tight dispersion, directional control, of sufficient heft to maintain tempo without becoming ponderous.  Because I'm able to swing them better, make improved contact, and relative distance is not compromised.  They may be low tech comparatively, but match my preference for an iron.  My total investment in the entirety ~ $300.  NTM, they're retro cool.  Not bad for 20+ year old irons many would label as antiquated and outdated.  They do what I need them to do.   With a good swing.  The heretofore front line set is on hiatus. 

 

 

Excellent reply... I’ll try to give a concise response to all posts as I have a 2 and 3 yr old hanging off my leg for most of the last 2 days...

 im 42. Irons/short are my strengths with putting and the tee box hurting me. Depends on the aforementioned but generally 90-100 depending on 3 putts and blowing my driver (since replaced with a super hybrid 17) in the woods...  Preference was a set that would challenge me to get my swing better. As the super game improvement clubs to me have proven to be way to inconsistent yardage wise (flush one and it’s 25 yards over target)... seems jpx 921 or  apex 21 will fit the bill. Posters have mentioned others. I looked at Haywood but with no way to test I feel better with ones I can demo on the spot. 

 

as far as why the big reshafting ideas I have it was mostly due to the shoulder pain I noticed after hitting the eye 2’s... played course once a week with an added range session of 125 balls. Never hurt during that time. Once I got the BeCu irons and played them/ranged them the pain happened. 
I’m thinking a lighter reg shaft will help that... 

 

I am def. not selling the pings. They are the Eye 2. Based on serial # they were shafted with micro taper shafts which after some research about 115-120g... 

 

much of the thoughts of reshaft/ new clubs were due to the fact that i have a side fund of $1500 and shoulder pain.  I found a new set of jpx’s with the recoils as noted that will leave plenty of money in the bank for the re shafting of the 5-9 BeCu’s. Made the decision btw steel fibers or recoils easy as the recoils were 250 cheaper and I hit them essentially the same. This 250 plus left over money saved will be what I use to reshaft and get lessons.
all the above will leave me with a brand new investment of a modern set I can hopefully grow my game with. It will also leave me with a cool retro set that I can pull out as well.

Thanks for all the help. 

 

Edited by JahSteve
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Taylormade Original One 12*

Maltby STi 5W 18*

Cleveland Launcher HB 4H 22*

Ping i500 6/7

Ping Iblade 7-PW

Mizuno JPX 919F GW 51*

Ping Anser SW 56*

PING Glide 3.0 Eye 2 LW 60*

Custom Odyssey 5 Copper  

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5 hours ago, JahSteve said:

Excellent reply... I’ll try to give a concise response to all posts as I have a 2 and 3 yr old hanging off my leg for most of the last 2 days...

 im 42. Irons/short are my strengths with putting and the tee box hurting me. Depends on the aforementioned but generally 90-100 depending on 3 putts and blowing my driver (since replaced with a super hybrid 17) in the woods...  Preference was a set that would challenge me to get my swing better. As the super game improvement clubs to me have proven to be way to inconsistent yardage wise (flush one and it’s 25 yards over target)... seems jpx 921 or  apex 21 will fit the bill. Posters have mentioned others. I looked at Haywood but with no way to test I feel better with ones I can demo on the spot. 

 

as far as why the big reshafting ideas I have it was mostly due to the shoulder pain I noticed after hitting the eye 2’s... played course once a week with an added range session of 125 balls. Never hurt during that time. Once I got the BeCu irons and played them/ranged them the pain happened. 
I’m thinking a lighter reg shaft will help that... 

 

I am def. not selling the pings. They are the Eye 2. Based on serial # they were shafted with micro taper shafts which after some research about 115-120g... 

 

much of the thoughts of reshaft/ new clubs were due to the fact that i have a side fund of $1500 and shoulder pain.  I found a new set of jpx’s with the recoils as noted that will leave plenty of money in the bank for the re shafting of the 5-9 BeCu’s. Made the decision btw steel fibers or recoils easy as the recoils were 250 cheaper and I hit them essentially the same. This 250 plus left over money saved will be what I use to reshaft and get lessons.
all the above will leave me with a brand new investment of a modern set I can hopefully grow my game with. It will also leave me with a cool retro set that I can pull out as well.

Thanks for all the help. 

 

Sounds like a great game-plan...awesome stuff!

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Callaway Paradym X (11*) / Hzrdus Black Smoke 6.0

Callaway Paradym X (15*) / Hzrdus Silver 6.0

Callaway Rogue St Max OS (21*) / Tensei AV Blue 75 S

Srixon ZX5 (4-PW) / Nippon Modus3 Tour 105 S

Cleveland RTX 6 Zipcore (52* Mid, 58* Mid) / DG Spinner

Odyssey White Hot OG 7 S

WITB on WRX

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Was thinking of sending back to ping but from what i believe they will not send my old shafts back. Which i would like for down the road if i do someday sell.  i also just called a local shop (mikes golf outlet in hartford ct) and they said they would not reshaft due to epoxy being toxic. 
Ill have to call around. 
im comfortable doing myself just would rather a shop do it as i do not have swingweight knowledge.  Thoughts

 

Taylormade Original One 12*

Maltby STi 5W 18*

Cleveland Launcher HB 4H 22*

Ping i500 6/7

Ping Iblade 7-PW

Mizuno JPX 919F GW 51*

Ping Anser SW 56*

PING Glide 3.0 Eye 2 LW 60*

Custom Odyssey 5 Copper  

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I’d definitely reshaft the Cu if you like them that well. Guy I know still has and plays daily with his set of EYE 2 CUs, bought the brand new long ago. Told me one they’d been reshafted 5 or 6 times. Shoots in the low/mid 60s to par regularly! Regret selling mine long ago! Someone will reshaft them for you.

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Most of the Eye 2 stainless had the ZZ Lite shaft.  Many of the Eye 2 BeCu were sent out with the Brunswick MicroTaper.  The Brunswick shaft, to me, seemed extremely "boardy".  

I have a set of the Eye 2+ BeCu's with JZ Lite shafts  (circa 1995).  And, I have a set of the Eye 2's with ZZ Lite (circa 1985).  My two lowest rounds of the year were with the Eye 2's.  I carded my 3rd hole-in-one, this year, one of the days the Eye 2+ BeCu's were in the bag.  

I'm doing some playing around with the Eye 2's.  They will probably be my daily irons this year.  (My iBlades may either be relegated to the basement or used for trade.)  Gonna pick up some 5/8" backer rod from Home Depot.  Cut it into about 9" strips and shove them down, inside the shaft.  Regrip them and play them.  At 74 years old, I haven't... yet... had the elbow wrist problems of others.  Hoping the backer rod inside the shafts will cushion vibration a little if and when I do develop some joint issues.  (238 18-hole rounds in 2020 with no joint issues.  Life is good!)  

 

1.  You will find people on the course who have never seen BeCu irons.  They will marvel at them, thinking it might be something "new".  Great conversation... as long as you don't leave one laying on the course or someone thinks they need the wedges more than you do! @#$$%

2.  Our "geezer group" plays every day.  It is so much fun to take money out of their pockets with a 1985 set of irons.  Anyone can go buy the latest and greatest.  Not everyone has a 40 year old set in their bag they play well.  

 

Whatever your decision... just go play and have fun!!!!

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3 hours ago, JahSteve said:

Was thinking of sending back to ping but from what i believe they will not send my old shafts back. Which i would like for down the road if i do someday sell.  i also just called a local shop (mikes golf outlet in hartford ct) and they said they would not reshaft due to epoxy being toxic. 
Ill have to call around. 
im comfortable doing myself just would rather a shop do it as i do not have swingweight knowledge.  Thoughts

 

Believe Ping will no longer perform any club work on BeCu clubs.  And you are correct, will not get the old shafts back.  

 

Sounds like Mike's really wasn't interested in doing the reshaft for you.  It's an easy 24 hour job.  The epoxy isn't the issue, it's the toxicity of beryllium that is of concern.  The inherent risk is caused by  breathing in Be dust and fumes.  For an extended period of time.  However, using "best practices" and taking the appropriate precautions can eliminate the risk.  Perform the removal outdoors in open space, downwind, wear a respirator mask/face covering to prevent breathing in the fumes..  Washing hands afterwards.  Wear gloves while performing hosel prep.  Lots of BeCu have been reshafted, just have to be smart about it and minimize exposure risk.  

 

Should have the current E2's benchmarked for swing weight to determine a starting point.  Most any shop could give you a quick measurement on the 7i and W.  Even DSG has a scale.  A quick search shows the Microtaper's shaft weight listed at 115g.  Knowing the weight of the intended installed shaft will determine the change to sw.  The ratio being: 9 gram delta in weight = 1 sw point delta.  All other factors remaining constant.  So changing from 115g to say 95g will decrease sw by ~ 2 points.  Do you have a preferential sw that you target for irons?  Weight will need to be added (tip weights, lead tape, tungsten powder) to increase the sw to your preference.  Using the ratio of 2 grams added to the head = 1 swing weight point.  Best to scale to confirm all of this prior to final assembly.  But at least you can ascertain a reasonable approximation of what has to be done.  Much information on this subject is available here and elsewhere on the net.  It's not really complicated once one understands the dynamics.  

 

Or simply install the shaft into the head.  Go to the range with a roll of lead tape and add tape (weight) till the club starts "feeling" right.  Add a bit more to see if it stays the same or changes.  Experiment.  Peel it off, and weigh.  That's the amount of head weight to be added per your preference.  No scales needed, no arbitrary number to target.   You can do this with each individual iron, or apply across the entire set.  Depends on how sensitive one is to small sw variances.  

 

Others more knowledgeable than I may offer further guidance and/or a different methodology.  

 

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Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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Get rid of the Pin G's and buy the new Cally Apex clubs, they are sweet clubs.

 

You're welcome...

Wilson Dynapwr Driver

Srixon ZX MK II 2 Hybrid

Cleveland Zipcore XL 5 Iron

Srixon ZX4 MK II Irons 6 - P

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 4 - 48, 54, 60

Cleveland HB soft 8 putter 

Srixon Z Star ball

       

       

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I hit my father's Ping Eye 2's every once in a while, and can't believe how awful they feel.  They are also short, and dig more than I am used to.  There is no way I would consider putting any money into those things.

 

Go with modern ping i210, srixon zx5/7,  callaway apex, tm p770, mizuno jpx 921.  All fantastic.  The BST here will save you money.

Edited by morgan1819

Woods/Fairways:  Callaway with Mitsubishi shafts

Irons:  Srixon with Dynamic Gold shafts

 

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4 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

Believe Ping will no longer perform any club work on BeCu clubs.  And you are correct, will not get the old shafts back.  

 

Sounds like Mike's really wasn't interested in doing the reshaft for you.  It's an easy 24 hour job.  The epoxy isn't the issue, it's the toxicity of beryllium that is of concern.  The inherent risk is caused by  breathing in Be dust and fumes.  For an extended period of time.  However, using "best practices" and taking the appropriate precautions can eliminate the risk.  Perform the removal outdoors in open space, downwind, wear a respirator mask/face covering to prevent breathing in the fumes..  Washing hands afterwards.  Wear gloves while performing hosel prep.  Lots of BeCu have been reshafted, just have to be smart about it and minimize exposure risk.  

 

Should have the current E2's benchmarked for swing weight to determine a starting point.  Most any shop could give you a quick measurement on the 7i and W.  Even DSG has a scale.  A quick search shows the Microtaper's shaft weight listed at 115g.  Knowing the weight of the intended installed shaft will determine the change to sw.  The ratio being: 9 gram delta in weight = 1 sw point delta.  All other factors remaining constant.  So changing from 115g to say 95g will decrease sw by ~ 2 points.  Do you have a preferential sw that you target for irons?  Weight will need to be added (tip weights, lead tape, tungsten powder) to increase the sw to your preference.  Using the ratio of 2 grams added to the head = 1 swing weight point.  Best to scale to confirm all of this prior to final assembly.  But at least you can ascertain a reasonable approximation of what has to be done.  Much information on this subject is available here and elsewhere on the net.  It's not really complicated once one understands the dynamics.  

 

Or simply install the shaft into the head.  Go to the range with a roll of lead tape and add tape (weight) till the club starts "feeling" right.  Add a bit more to see if it stays the same or changes.  Experiment.  Peel it off, and weigh.  That's the amount of head weight to be added per your preference.  No scales needed, no arbitrary number to target.   You can do this with each individual iron, or apply across the entire set.  Depends on how sensitive one is to small sw variances.  

 

Others more knowledgeable than I may offer further guidance and/or a different methodology.  

 

 

Thank you for this very informative post.

 

my set of 845 BeCu's is similar to the OP's in their need to migrate from stiff to R shafts.

nearby are big box GG, DSG or CC stores.

I can regrip but this project is beyond my skill set.

 

 

 

currently playing:
FT-5 - D
Cally FT hybrids
Hogan Edge GS, 4-PW
Vokey Oil Can 52, 56
Ping Anser 2

TM FlexTech Lite/Titleist StaDry
 

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