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Bending machines aren't meant to be used as spec gauges.  They are only meant to be used to take measurements in a relative sense.  For example, you need to bend an iron 2 degrees flat from where it i

THIS.... And thats valid fore ALL kinds of measurements, no matter tool we have, if we try to use it for anything but RELATIVE measurements, we will fail and for good reasons. That calibration b

Absolutely agree.  I would save the $120 and put it towards a spec gauge.  Then you can start to measure drivers, woods, hybrids, and putters accurately as well

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The answer would depend on what bending machine wouldn't it?

 

You could always buy it and return if necessary.  Worst case you are out return shipping cost.

 

I've got a spec gauge and made my own calibration club.  I also used the spec gauge to measure a few different clubs like a 60 degree wedge, a 4 iron and a 7 iron, then I put those clubs in the bending machine and read the measured values.  In the case of my machine I had to shim the measuring post a little to bring the readings into alignment with what the spec gauge says.  It's been a while since doing this but I remember the 60 was the most difficult for the bending machine to measure.

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1 minute ago, JimmyC59 said:

The lie is spot on but the loft is 1° off.

 
Ive got some old titleist fitting irons that have checked out within a half degree and I had a bunch of old tommy A irons with the loft cast in and they read exact. 
 

I’m doing side work, and want something a little more exact for my own sanity 

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3 minutes ago, Nessism said:

The answer would depend on what bending machine wouldn't it?

 

You could always buy it and return if necessary.  Worst case you are out return shipping cost.

 

I've got a spec gauge and made my own calibration club.  I also used the spec gauge to measure a few different clubs like a 60 degree wedge, a 4 iron and a 7 iron, then I put those clubs in the bending machine and read the measured values.  In the case of my machine I had to shim the measuring post a little to bring the readings into alignment with what the spec gauge says.  It's been a while since doing this but I remember the 60 was the most difficult for the bending machine to measure.


mines an odd ball I’m finding out, not much info on it anywhere 

 

silvestri industries 

Universal loft and lie machine 

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1 hour ago, lvgolfer962 said:


mines an odd ball I’m finding out, not much info on it anywhere 

 

silvestri industries 

Universal loft and lie machine 

Yep I think you sent me a PM on that because I have one and yours is a little different. What I do to check mine is 2 things. I have 2 irons that were built up for demo and never hit. Those have also been checked on a friend's Mitchell machine. I also check it old school on a static plate with a slide protractor. The old school protractor you can get from Golfworks Maltby

Driver--- Honma G1-X Stock Regular shaft

3W Callaway Steel Head UST 65 Pro Force Gold Stiff

2I-- 1980 Macgregor VIP Nike R steel shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1980 Mac Vip Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW Cleveland 588 56* S- 400 Sensicore

Putter Old Rusty Santa Fe Bulls Eye fluted shaft

Bag Old Ping Hoofer I had in my stash

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6 minutes ago, BIG STU said:

Yep I think you sent me a PM on that because I have one and yours is a little different. What I do to check mine is 2 things. I have 2 irons that were built up for demo and never hit. Those have also been checked on a friend's Mitchell machine. I also check it old school on a static plate with a slide protractor. The old school protractor you can get from Golfworks Maltby

That was me

 

i don’t know anyone in the business anymore, or I’d be going to them for some new demo clubs myself 

 

I seen an old video by Tom W.  He said you could send him some heads and he would measure them on his rig and then send them back with the measurements 

not sure if he still does that. 
 

 

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5 hours ago, drumdude96 said:

Bending machines aren't meant to be used as spec gauges.  They are only meant to be used to take measurements in a relative sense.  For example, you need to bend an iron 2 degrees flat from where it is currently.  You put it in the bending machine, measure the lie angle, and go 2 degrees flat from whatever that reading is.  In that sense, they are accurate enough.  But, for true accuracy when measuring club specs, you need a real spec gauge.  The Golfworks has a decent one for only $350 or so.  With all of the forces that bending machines are subjected to, parts can wear out or things can get tweaked a little, so even one that is pretty accurate will eventually be "off" a little over time.

 

Absolutely agree.  I would save the $120 and put it towards a spec gauge.  Then you can start to measure drivers, woods, hybrids, and putters accurately as well

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I sent an iron head to the maker of my l/l machine, MR Design or whatever their name is or was.  He measured it and sent it back to me, and it became my calibration/check piece.

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M4 Driver D-type
sometimes 5W, sometimes 3 hybrid

4,5,6 hybrids (22,25,28 degrees)  Adams
4, 6-GW basic GI irons, weak lofts and +1/2" for more speed and launch
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4 hours ago, Awainer1 said:

They don’t know what they’re talking about that is used to calibrate a dedicated gauge. They make things for loft lie bending machines like this but I don’t know where you would source one. 
 

 

 This is exactly what I’m looking for

thank you


I’ll l have to call a few machine shops in my area and see what it would run to make a few in different lofts 

Edited by lvgolfer962
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12 minutes ago, lvgolfer962 said:

 This is exactly what I’m looking for

thank you


I’ll l have to call a few machine shops in my area and see what it would run to make a few in different lofts 

You can create an account at golfmechanix.com and purchase tools from them.  It will be much more expensive to have them made at a machine shop.  You're looking at $75-$100 an hour shop rate at least plus materials.

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PING G400 Max 10.5° UST Attas 4U 6TS 44"                      PING G25 10.5° Graphite Design 2419S Prototype

Taylormade SLDR Mini 14° NV 2KXV Green 75X 42"            PING G25 3 Wood Aerotech Steelfiber ss75 S

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Mizuno JPX 900 Hot Metal 6-GW AMT Tour White s300    PING Glide 54° SS and 58° TS KBS 610 125

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Spoiler

 

If you call golf works they can source any golfmechanix stuff 

 

44 minutes ago, drumdude96 said:

You can create an account at golfmechanix.com and purchase tools from them.  It will be much more expensive to have them made at a machine shop.  You're looking at $75-$100 an hour shop rate at least plus materials.

 

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I came up with this Golf Instruments Gauge about 6-7 years ago from a shop in Ohio that was liquidating his tools. It's a gauge only and you can't bend anything in it but it will confirm your settings. I contacted Golf Instruments to see if I could return to them to insure it was reading correctly. They were great and instead sent me a 40* loft/60* lie "green" iron to confirm. It was dead nuts. Anyway, I found out my MR3 True Blue "zero" has shifted from 0 to a half degree strong. This is due to the soft material that holds the club head in place becoming worn. I'll replace it eventually, just don't see the need now.

Golf Instruments M-310.jpg

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JBeam Bullet 10*                           Fujikura Ventus Black 6X

Exotics CBX119 15* 3WD.             Fujikura Ventus Red 8X

Exotics CBX119 18* 5WD              Accra Tour Z RPG 382 M5

Exotics CB2 21* 7WD                    Fujikura Ventus Red 9X
MIURA CB57 5-7                            MCI MMT-125TX

MIURA MB-001 8-P                       MCI MMT-125TX
Chikara V1 Proto 52, 57, 61           MCI MMT-125TX (8-iron)

Cameron 009 Prototype 1.5 Beach 34/350 (A010656)

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6 hours ago, drumdude96 said:

You can create an account at golfmechanix.com and purchase tools from them.  It will be much more expensive to have them made at a machine shop.  You're looking at $75-$100 an hour shop rate at least plus materials.


I found them on the site earlier, I’ll be ordering a couple

👍
 

I know there not needed, I’d just like to have a few to throw in there if I see something goofy, and I’ll know these are dead nuts


I have a gauge on the way so I’m covered that way too ( the guy that sold me my set up almost gave it to me. You guys wouldn’t believe me if I told you what I paid for the bender, stand, and Mitchell adjustable bar)

so a few extras are just going to compliment my set up

Edited by lvgolfer962
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5 hours ago, nitram said:

I came up with this Golf Instruments Gauge about 6-7 years ago from a shop in Ohio that was liquidating his tools. It's a gauge only and you can't bend anything in it but it will confirm your settings. I contacted Golf Instruments to see if I could return to them to insure it was reading correctly. They were great and instead sent me a 40* loft/60* lie "green" iron to confirm. It was dead nuts. Anyway, I found out my MR3 True Blue "zero" has shifted from 0 to a half degree strong. This is due to the soft material that holds the club head in place becoming worn. I'll replace it eventually, just don't see the need now.

Golf Instruments M-310.jpg

thats really cool. Can you measure lie and face angle with this gauge?  I think its hard because its based on knowing how each oem soles their club to measure these specs.

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33 minutes ago, Awainer1 said:

thats really cool. Can you measure lie and face angle with this gauge?  I think its hard because its based on knowing how each oem soles their club to measure these specs.

 

That issue is gone, if we measure all clubs the same way that all the major companies do.  Set the club head to a 0* face angle in the gauge, regardless of how it wants to sit on it's own.  Then measure everything from there.  This is also how the USGA measures every club head that comes into them for testing

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On 2/16/2021 at 6:08 PM, Awainer1 said:

thats really cool. Can you measure lie and face angle with this gauge?  I think its hard because its based on knowing how each oem soles their club to measure these specs.

 

Yes, that's what that two pin gauge is for on the right hand side side is.  That looks like a pretty nice one too.  The one thing I found odd was Tom saying that the standard protractor was as good as anything when it comes to measuring loft.  I find it hard to believe in my head, but I'll take his word for it.

 

To your second part, yeah, the only way I've found to validate the setups is to have a spec'd head already to see how it is registered in the unit when they derive their loft/face angle numbers for their spec labels.  I know Tom has his ways, and there was a pretty lengthy discussion on it back when there was all the disputes over the adjustable hosel vs sole plate thing and he did that really long PDF on the TM designs years ago.  I've measured Callaways and I've measured a slew of TM heads...in my experience, they don't seem to follow the ways that Tom laid out when you compare it to the spec label numbers.  Not sure if they use some sort of sole mold to speed up the process, but I was able to get pretty much spot on when just naturally letting them rest directly on the sole as they would be played.  Trick is getting the lie angle right so it sits on the right part, although out of the ones I've checked, there's some room for error as there hasn't been any crazy geometry changes that would put some sort of crazy influence on the numbers.  IIRC, TM appeared not to use an angled adapter but one of those faux 0* adapters.  In the end, that's how you are going to play them anyway right if you address them that way?  Can't say it's the worst idea in the world.

 

 

Edited by Golfrnut
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TM M3 440 w/ Speeder Evo II 6.1 TS
TM M5 14* Rocket w/ BB S+ 70  
Taylormade P790 2 UDI w/ DG 105R or M3 19* 5W w/ BB S+ 70

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Nike VR Pro MBs w/ DG AMT White R300
Kyoei 52/58 Personal Grinds w/ DG S400s
Odyssey MXM 1W

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On 2/16/2021 at 12:58 PM, nitram said:

I came up with this Golf Instruments Gauge about 6-7 years ago from a shop in Ohio that was liquidating his tools. It's a gauge only and you can't bend anything in it but it will confirm your settings. I contacted Golf Instruments to see if I could return to them to insure it was reading correctly. They were great and instead sent me a 40* loft/60* lie "green" iron to confirm. It was dead nuts. Anyway, I found out my MR3 True Blue "zero" has shifted from 0 to a half degree strong. This is due to the soft material that holds the club head in place becoming worn. I'll replace it eventually, just don't see the need now.

Golf Instruments M-310.jpg

http://www.golfinstruments.com/
 

that’s really cool. I’m wondering what’s the mechanism used for clamping in the shaft. The one I have if the shaft is tapered it gives you a wrong reading. It looks like on yours it wraps all the way around the shaft. Also on mine the peice that slides up to the face can’t be lowered enough to check the bottom groove.  More pics would be great as I’m interesting in buying one now. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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On 2/16/2021 at 12:58 PM, nitram said:

I came up with this Golf Instruments Gauge about 6-7 years ago from a shop in Ohio that was liquidating his tools. It's a gauge only and you can't bend anything in it but it will confirm your settings. I contacted Golf Instruments to see if I could return to them to insure it was reading correctly. They were great and instead sent me a 40* loft/60* lie "green" iron to confirm. It was dead nuts. Anyway, I found out my MR3 True Blue "zero" has shifted from 0 to a half degree strong. This is due to the soft material that holds the club head in place becoming worn. I'll replace it eventually, just don't see the need now.

Golf Instruments M-310.jpg

any way you can send more pics of this with an iron mounted in the gauge? including pics of the clamping mechanism?

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Yes, when I get back to where it’s sitting. May be a week or two...

JBeam Bullet 10*                           Fujikura Ventus Black 6X

Exotics CBX119 15* 3WD.             Fujikura Ventus Red 8X

Exotics CBX119 18* 5WD              Accra Tour Z RPG 382 M5

Exotics CB2 21* 7WD                    Fujikura Ventus Red 9X
MIURA CB57 5-7                            MCI MMT-125TX

MIURA MB-001 8-P                       MCI MMT-125TX
Chikara V1 Proto 52, 57, 61           MCI MMT-125TX (8-iron)

Cameron 009 Prototype 1.5 Beach 34/350 (A010656)

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14 hours ago, Awainer1 said:

http://www.golfinstruments.com/
 

that’s really cool. I’m wondering what’s the mechanism used for clamping in the shaft. The one I have if the shaft is tapered it gives you a wrong reading. It looks like on yours it wraps all the way around the shaft. Also on mine the peice that slides up to the face can’t be lowered enough to check the bottom groove.  More pics would be great as I’m interesting in buying one now. 

 

 


I don’t know how you get around it aside from:

-building up the taper yourself using tape, etc and a micrometer

-only using non-tapered gauge pins without the shafts installed. 
Option one being really the only realistic answer

Would be really nice to see someone come out with some sort of tapered blocks you could interchange to at least get closer. 
 

I’m certainly with you on the second part. I don’t have the ability to adjust elevation on my fave angle gauge either.  Would be super nice those times your gauge hits right on the grooves...so annoying. 

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TM M3 440 w/ Speeder Evo II 6.1 TS
TM M5 14* Rocket w/ BB S+ 70  
Taylormade P790 2 UDI w/ DG 105R or M3 19* 5W w/ BB S+ 70

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Nike VR Pro MBs w/ DG AMT White R300
Kyoei 52/58 Personal Grinds w/ DG S400s
Odyssey MXM 1W

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