Can’t seem to chip with forged wedges

[rkodavey]

For most of my golfing life, I’ve struggled to chip with my sand wedge, but usually have no trouble when I use my gap wedge, and I’m starting to wonder if this is related to my equipment. My gap wedge is part of my P790 iron set, but no sand wedge is available so I play an Adams Tom Watson forged 56 degree wedge (bounce is 13 degrees). I can’t tell you how many times I chunk little greenside chips with my Adams wedge, but if I chip with my gap wedge the club seems to glide right through the turf and I have much better results. My problems arise when I have little green to work with and need the ball to stop quick--my gap wedge simply isn’t the right tool for that type of shot.

 

So I have two questions about this. First, is there something about forged wedges that makes them radically different from your typical gap wedge that comes with a set of irons? I had this same issue with the previous irons I owned and I wonder if it's my equipment or if it's all in my head. Second, what recommendations can you give for a 55 or 56 degree sand wedge that will perform similar to my gap wedge? Thanks to anyone who ventures to reply to my questions.

[Hawkeye77]

Nope, nothing about them just for being forged. You probably just get along better with the sole grind and bounce of your gap wedge.

 

I had some forged wedges fashioned for me by @joey3108 last year and they are just as friendly as the various styles of Vokeys I'd used over the years.

 

Last time I got fitted for Vokeys (SM6), I tried all sorts of different grinds/bounce and some worked and some didn't.  Could be your swing, could be your turf conditions, but not just the forged part.

 

Sorry, no idea on recommendations.

[platgof]

Are you playing graphite in your P790's? If so, you need graphite in your wedges as well.

[IPA4Me]

Check the bounce.  Also consider cavity back wedges for the added forgiveness.

[Myherobobhope]

Plenty of possible problems... forged is unlikely the reason... the only possibility issue with forged is that they have gotten bent weird with use over time... if you’ve hit them a ton, especially off mats, you might have inadvertently changed the lie or loft... either could create some Issues.

 

regardless, the wedges you have aren’t working for you. You can make the gap wedge work, so you know the proper stroke to make... so maybe it’s time to look at new wedges?

 

im sold on the concept of more forgiveness in wedges... I just moved back from a vokey gap wedge to a set wedge, and I consider myself a good chipper. I didn’t think I was gaining anything from a “specialty” wedge, so I replaced it.

 

id definitely look at either a set sand wedge or some sort of cavity sand wedge... get it built to fit your set. Same shaft, same swing weight, same length, loft and lie progression.

 

the other thing I’d consider is looking at your chipping technique. I’m a huge fan of the sieckmann book “your short game solution”... I feel like it takes some variables out of the chipping swing and helps start the ball high, soft and online. 
 

ive watched enough people practicing chipping to see plenty of mediocre technique... you might be getting away with something with your gap wedge that simply  doesn’t work with your sand wedge... and if that’s the case, you either need to match your sand wedge so it covers the same flaws, or fix the flaws creating the issue.

[Nessism]

Number one I'd make sure the shaft weight of your sand wedge is consistent with those in your irons & gap wedge.  A little bit heavier is typically okay but keep the weight to within 10 grams or so.  This is to assure you have the same basic feel of the club in your hands so you can put a good swing on the ball.  Second, I'd move to a more cambered sole, one with some leading edge relief.  The Tom Watson wedges have a sharp leading edge which is prone to digging if you hit the ball fat.  Third, or maybe first actually, is to practice the type of shots you are struggling with.  That often solves the problem straight out.

[jbrunk]

Isn’t P790 also forged?

 

There are plenty of great high bounce, forgiving, cavity back wedges on the market today: Cleveland CBX2, Mizuno ES21, Ping Glide 3.0, Taylormade Hi Toe Bigfoot.  Maybe you like your current 56° for other situations (bunkers, pitching). If so, one of these wedges in a 60° or even 64° would better protect you from the fat shot, and pop up high when you’re short sided.

[forrester_fire]

30 minutes ago, jbrunk said:

Isn’t P790 also forged?

 

There are plenty of great high bounce, forgiving, cavity back wedges on the market today: Cleveland CBX2, Mizuno ES21, Ping Glide 3.0, Taylormade Hi Toe Bigfoot.  Maybe you like your current 56° for other situations (bunkers, pitching). If so, one of these wedges in a 60° or even 64° would better protect you from the fat shot, and pop up high when you’re short sided.

 

I wouldn't consider them forged, regardless of whether the club has "Forged" stamped on them.  They might have an individual forged component, like the face or the body of the iron, but they aren't a true forged iron. 

 

I personally don't consider an iron to be "forged" unless it's a one-piece face/body, and I include irons with titanium or tungsten in that category as long as the face doesn't have to be welded, or otherwise affixed, to the body.

Edited February 27, 2021 by forrester_fire

[Pepperturbo]

Forged vs cast has nothing to do with it.  It's your frame of mind.

 

Maybe it's as simple as the gap wedge feels like the rest of your irons, while the 56* feels very different.  And maybe you just haven't practiced enough with 56 to feel comfortable.  Lots of people feel the same as you about wedges, period.  Only their reasoning may differ.   Most of the time it's tied to the length of the club, and its setup compared to the rest of the clubs that causes apprehension.

 

The other factors maybe how you feel when looking down at the club, and or maybe the shaft feels completely different from your other clubs.   

Edited February 27, 2021 by Pepperturbo

[hammergolf]

2 hours ago, rkodavey said:

For most of my golfing life, I’ve struggled to chip with my sand wedge, but usually have no trouble when I use my gap wedge, and I’m starting to wonder if this is related to my equipment. My gap wedge is part of my P790 iron set, but no sand wedge is available so I play an Adams Tom Watson forged 56 degree wedge (bounce is 13 degrees). I can’t tell you how many times I chunk little greenside chips with my Adams wedge, but if I chip with my gap wedge the club seems to glide right through the turf and I have much better results. My problems arise when I have little green to work with and need the ball to stop quick--my gap wedge simply isn’t the right tool for that type of shot.

 

So I have two questions about this. First, is there something about forged wedges that makes them radically different from your typical gap wedge that comes with a set of irons? I had this same issue with the previous irons I owned and I wonder if it's my equipment or if it's all in my head. Second, what recommendations can you give for a 55 or 56 degree sand wedge that will perform similar to my gap wedge? Thanks to anyone who ventures to reply to my questions.

Try a thicker soled wedge. Ping Glide ES would be a good one to try. Very forgiving and versatile sole grind.

[2717B]

I have often thought the same thing myself. For whatever reason, I chip better around the green with a cast wedge or iron vs a forged wedge or iron. Maybe it’s the weight of the club head....who knows. I just feel like the ball jumps off the club face faster when I hit the forged wedge or iron. My control seems to be must better with the cast clubs. 

[mootrail]

You're comparing your super hot face hollow body set wedge to an ancient stamping with zero modern wedge design parameters.  They might perfectly fine for some, but the first thing to do is to toss them out.

 

There are a few hollow body wedges out there, but it's your swing and conditions first.  You need to get to the shop and test them out.

 

[Red4282]

Its not the forged. Try Move the ball up in your stance

[tilasan1]

Bounce is part of it but nobody is mentioning the loft, 50 degree vs 56 degree.

[platgof]

Pick up a Callaway MD5 with graphite shaft and good to go.

[jds101086]

Not to be harsh here, but seeing the responses in this thread sums up everything that is bad about going to a golf forum for equipment advice.

Edited February 28, 2021 by jds101086

[iNeedMoreGolf]

Im sure its been said but... sole grind and bounce is your main issue. The gap wedge sole is most likely a bit thinner with less degrees of bounce like 10° versus the sand wedge having more wider sole and more bounce... probably 14°. Bounce is there to do exactly that... bounce into the ground... thats handy in bunkers and soft conditions even  rough because it doesnt dig. The less bounce the more you will dig. Sounds like you want a 58° with 10° bounce. Do you research on bounce for wedges and you will understand why your flubbing the shots around the green with certain wedges. I had a 58*  with 6* bounce once and mann did i digg soo far into the ground the divot would go further then the ball. No fun. Then i learned about bounce and what i needed and walahhh im a pga tour pro now.

[JungleJimbo]

9 hours ago, tilasan1 said:

Bounce is part of it but nobody is mentioning the loft, 50 degree vs 56 degree.

@rkodavey: “+1” re @tilasan1’s observation, ie it’s easier to chip  with a lower-lofted club... or even with a chipper! 🍟🏒 😬

 

 

 

 

Edited February 28, 2021 by JungleJimbo

[elwhippy]

Take a short game lesson first. 

[jomatty]

I’d check the leading edge between the two clubs

[platgof]

Put a Mizuno leading edge on it!

[homergolf]

Maybe chip with only the gap wedge and less lofted clubs like your 8 or 9 iron. It’s probably not the club

[mizunotpz]

Ideal solution: lesson from a wedge specialist coach combined with a fitting.

[kiwihacker]

So much difference between a set gap wedge and a specialist 56° sand wedge and to me it is nothing to do with the 56° being forged. I don't have a set gap wedge but I have much more success with a specialist 50°-52° wedge than a 56°. Neither of my wedges are forged but I'm much more consistent with the 52° vs a 56° and that is a consequence of the increased loft. I also have good success with my set 9 iron (43°) and PW (47°). Again the lower loft and cavity back design makes chipping with them a simpler proposition. 

 

I think you just need to use the 56° sparingly and spend time practicing with it for the rare occasions you need to use it. Either that or just change the ball position with your gap wedge to achieve the ball flight you are looking for. 

[chipa]

On 2/27/2021 at 10:02 AM, rkodavey said:

For most of my golfing life, I’ve struggled to chip with my sand wedge, but usually have no trouble when I use my gap wedge, and I’m starting to wonder if this is related to my equipment. My gap wedge is part of my P790 iron set, but no sand wedge is available so I play an Adams Tom Watson forged 56 degree wedge (bounce is 13 degrees). I can’t tell you how many times I chunk little greenside chips with my Adams wedge, but if I chip with my gap wedge the club seems to glide right through the turf and I have much better results. My problems arise when I have little green to work with and need the ball to stop quick--my gap wedge simply isn’t the right tool for that type of shot.

 

So I have two questions about this. First, is there something about forged wedges that makes them radically different from your typical gap wedge that comes with a set of irons? I had this same issue with the previous irons I owned and I wonder if it's my equipment or if it's all in my head. Second, what recommendations can you give for a 55 or 56 degree sand wedge that will perform similar to my gap wedge? Thanks to anyone who ventures to reply to my questions.

 

I had the same problem with a 60 deg. wedge. I don't think it has anything to do with it being forged. I am now using the sand wedge which is part of my set with better results. It could be that you feel more comfortable with your irons. I would try  to get a wedge that looks similar to the one you have and try that first.

[phizzy30]

Like others have said it's bounce.  Some golfers come into the ball steep and others shallow and bounce plays a huge role in determining what works for you.  My suggestion would be to go to your local golf store and try a bunch of wedges with low, mid and high bounce and see what works best for your swing and chips. 

Edited March 1, 2021 by phizzy30

[nsxguy]

Hit the ball first. 👍

[j_giesler]

+1 for ping wedges, could even do G425 (or another model) set sand wedge bs the glide wedges. I love my I25 U Wedge, have thought about trying the sand, but I really like my PM Grind

[iNeedMoreGolf]

1 hour ago, nsxguy said:

Hit the ball first. 👍

If you read what the op said you would know he said he struggles with sand wedge but not gap wedge around the greens. He wants to use sand wedges higher loft but ends up chunking and flubbing. That most likely means the bounce is making it a bit more complicated for him. Its not as simple as just hit ball first. You can try that and still blade it. Each club has a bit of a technique especially wedges and grinds and bounce numbers can help that or not. If this aint true  then every pga player would just have all one kind of bounce and grind in their bags.

[Nessism]

On 2/27/2021 at 9:56 PM, jds101086 said:

Not to be harsh here, but seeing the responses in this thread sums up everything that is bad about going to a golf forum for equipment advice.

 

OP puts up question, a number of responses presented (some better than others 🙃,)  OP doesn't come back to thread to respond or provide more information.  

 

You reap what you sow.