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How much distance have you lost by going shorter driver length?


mizunotpz

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37 minutes ago, mizunotpz said:

so 21 gram added? How did you come up with that number?

Kept adding tape until my LM numbers and dispersion were best. Ymmv

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TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

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2 hours ago, mizunotpz said:

For those of you who have gone shorter than 45-45.5. How much distance have you lost, have you gained in accuracy?

 

Zero distance loss.  Actually, a bit of distance gain.

 

Full disclosure disclaimer: my swingspeed seems to be maxed at 43" or 43.25", as discovered in a fitting a few years ago.

 

Accuracy is better, but I don't keep stats, so no numbers to share.

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Londoner said:

When you guys go shorter do you do anything about swing weight?

 

Definitely.  I add weight to the clubheads to get the swingweight where I like it.  Lead tape and TM's movable weights are favorites, but I've also stuffed a couple clubheads with considerable amounts of cotton balls.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Wow, thats interesting stats. The 0-5 hcp category didnt gain much either. A pity the equipment industry doesnt listen much to this, except for Cobra who actually offers a 44.5 tour length version. And yes, I know you can order shorter shafts from the companies but its not something they communicate.

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1.5” cost me 27yds.  Verified with Trackman at my recent fitting.  Full disclosure, shorter shaft was not an ideal fit, so that was definitely a factor.  I went longer, softer in flex a tiny bit, and “counterbalanced” for my gain in yards with better dispersion.

 

*I also hit one off the planet today with that longer shaft, so with distance comes an outside chance I block one to nowhere. I truly believe that would have just been a weak, right drive if it were shorter. So grains of salt.

 

Edited by CAT GOLFER
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47 minutes ago, mizunotpz said:

Wow, thats interesting stats. The 0-5 hcp category didnt gain much either. A pity the equipment industry doesnt listen much to this, except for Cobra who actually offers a 44.5 tour length version. And yes, I know you can order shorter shafts from the companies but its not something they communicate.

Yes, I thought it was fascinating when I ran across it.  The ONLY thing the club companies can pitch is more distance, as that is what makes product move off the shelves.  And in the vernacular of the wooden woods, if you hit one "on the screws" with a longer shaft -- it's gonna go farther.  But how often do you or can you with that length of shaft?  Definitely doesn't get the attention it deserves !

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PING - G400 Max 10.5 - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 5 R

Titleist - TS2 4W - Graphite Design Tour AD DI 6 RS TS2 7W - Alta CB 65 R

Cobra - Baffler 23* - Aldila NV-HL 65 R

PXG - 0211 (2019 version) - 5-PW - MMT 80 S

Cleveland - CBX2 50 / 54 / 58 - Rotex 

L.A.B. Golf - Directed Force 2.1 - KBS Tour - Press No. II 3*

Snell - MTB  Black

 

 

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Nice chart 👍 

 

I found no loss. I may get 1-2 mph ball speed higher on the 45.5 shaft over my 44.25 shaft, but not on average, only in perfect strikes. I bet on Average, I’m probably going to see gains in ball speed with the shorter shaft at 44.25. I find the sweet spot far more consistently. I may have a range of ball speeds that fluctuate 3-5mph from the low to high with the longer shaft at over 45 inch, but the range with the shorter shaft at 44.25 is 1-3mph difference.  I can control my launch and spin more consistently, and shape shots easier.  The dispersion between the two lengths is rather wide.  

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I went to a 44 inch driver because I was not consistent with the driver.  I didn’t lose measurable distance and gained accuracy.  I continued to work on the driver and then went to 45.5 and picked up almost 10 yards.  If you can make good contact there is no doubt that it will go further with a longer shaft.  If you can’t make good contact though it could make sense to go shorter.  
all that said, as important as distance off the tee is, it seems to me that it should be a priority to work towards making good contact with a standard length driver.  It’s just an easy way to get more distance.  That has been my experience anyways.

Edited by jomatty
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8 hours ago, 5baytjd said:

Wishon did a study comparing distance and dispersion with 43", 44", and 45" drivers.  Only folks with a hc of 5 or lower hit the longer shaft better.  All other hc's had better distance and dispersion with shorter shaft lengths.  I uploaded an image, but it may be too small to see; if not, I'm guessing you can find it on the intergoogle.

Wishon Study of Driver Length.PNG

 

Thanks for this. Any idea on date of the test?

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Since the adapter on the stock R1 shaft was tore up, I took an inch off it and will either play a round or hit the range next week.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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I’ve been thinking about doing this also.   Does it it make sense as a “baby step,” before cutting the shaft, for me to start at the range by just choking up on the club a half inch or so, and then progressively adding lead tape until the SW feels right to me?   Or is there something about choking up that would cause a weird counter-weighting effect that wouldn’t give a good representation of what it will feel like with the shaft cut down?

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2 hours ago, Brenkj said:

I’ve been thinking about doing this also.   Does it it make sense as a “baby step,” before cutting the shaft, for me to start at the range by just choking up on the club a half inch or so, and then progressively adding lead tape until the SW feels right to me?   Or is there something about choking up that would cause a weird counter-weighting effect that wouldn’t give a good representation of what it will feel like with the shaft cut down?

 

If you are not used to choking up then I don't think it will feel the same not only due to the smaller grip feel but also to the head lightness.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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I first went to 44.5 and then popped a fairway shaft in my Callaway Epic that played at 43.5.  Honestly no noticeable distance loss at 43.5, although I did have to add a fair amount of weight as many mentioned.  Even the change in flex didn’t make the combo unplayable.  For me, eventually I have settled on 44.25 inches.  This gives me the best chance at a center strike.  The only way I’d go back to a 45.75 inch driver is if I wanted a bunch of contact on the heel, and honestly I don’t!  I know many are concerned about swing weight, but keep in mind most fitters will tell you length is the number one fitting parameter.  Total weight would be second, and swing weight effect varies a lot from player to player.

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I’ve gained 5-10 yards going shorter. 

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Ping G430 Max 10K 10.5° driver - Diamana GT 60S

Ping G430 Max 15° #3 fairway - Diamana TB 70S

Ping G430 Max 21° #7 fairway - Diamana TB 80S

Ping G430 Max 26° #5 hybrid - MMTh 90S

Mizuno Pro 243 4-PW irons - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 48°-10S wedge - MMT 105S

Mizuno T24 Raw 54°-10S and 60°-06X wedges - MMT Scoring Wedge 105S

Ping PLD Ally Blue 4

Titleist Pro V1x

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Man, this is a lot of people who are really glad they went with shorter shafts.  My problem is, my body and swing really seem to like a heavier swing weight, and I’m already using the heaviest swing weight I can find online for my TS2 driver.  So if I go shorter, I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the swing weight back up to what feels good for me.  

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I'm at 44.75" on a Ping G410 LST and I'm sticking with the setup. I've found I prefer woods and hybrids under length, whereas I play standard length irons then typically go 1/4" between clubs from 9 or PW on down, can't remember which. 

 

A couple things I've found is that I play relatively heavy shafts in those shorter woods and hybrids, but I'm currently in mid-weight iron and wedge shafts (C-Taper Lite X irons at 115g, and PX LZ 6.0 wedges at 120g). I gravitate towards an 85g-ish shaft weight for a fairway wood, 100g in a driving iron and 110g in a 3 hybrid. KBS makes a steel hybrid shaft that is impressive and and a very inexpensive way to try a shorter heavier hybrid or driving iron. The shorter / higher lofted hybrids and woods have heavier heads, so it's less manipulation of head weight if you start with a higher loft and crank it down in loft. Personally I prefer straight or fade bias, so that is a happy coincidence. You can save yourself A LOT of research and $$$ experimentation by working with a trusted fitter from the start. The only reason my failed experiments haven't hurt me is because I've managed to buy opportunistically and be patient in selling for COVID prices. 

 

To answer the question about distance, I don't think I've given up any distance whatsoever. If I have it isn't something I'm worried about because it's a much more controlled, comfortable setup. Best of luck to you. 

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1 hour ago, Brenkj said:

Man, this is a lot of people who are really glad they went with shorter shafts.  My problem is, my body and swing really seem to like a heavier swing weight, and I’m already using the heaviest swing weight I can find online for my TS2 driver.  So if I go shorter, I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the swing weight back up to what feels good for me.  

 

Lead tape is your friend

 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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11 hours ago, Brenkj said:

I’ve been thinking about doing this also.   Does it it make sense as a “baby step,” before cutting the shaft, for me to start at the range by just choking up on the club a half inch or so, and then progressively adding lead tape until the SW feels right to me?   Or is there something about choking up that would cause a weird counter-weighting effect that wouldn’t give a good representation of what it will feel like with the shaft cut down?

 

It's certainly worth experimenting with, although the grip will feel different in your hands.  We've seen players on tour who actually prefer the choked down feel and play almost all shots that way.  Examples are Anthony Kim, Brooke Henderson, and Lydia Ko

Edited by Cwebb
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I just thought of a couple other questions.   (1) When I got fitted for my irons, they went with 1/2-inch longer shafts based on my height, arm length, swing, etc.    How should I factor that into whether shortening my driver is a good idea?     (2) If I do cut down my driver shaft a bit and it doesn't work out, can I add that length back on without screwing up the shaft?    I know that's an easy thing to do with an iron shaft, but what about a graphite driver shaft?

 

I'm excited about the prospect of hitting more fairways - and maybe even gaining a little distance, but my driver shaft wasn't cheap, and I'm nervous about cutting it if that's irreversible.      Thanks.

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I play 44.25 now and don't care about distance that much but don't think it loses any. I can barely hit the clubface with a 45.5" being a 2 handicap. Driver was always my weakness and if I'd have figured it out ~15 years ago and not been injured a lot in HS could've gotten some scholarships, then took my 20's pretty much off. Found a sweet spot with a very stiff counterbalanced shaft high loft head playing anywhere around 44". Have to absolutely load up on lead tape I found out so I bought a scale to get the head over 200g. I'm 6'1 and play irons .5" over too. All about comfort for me since it's going ~270 regardless and I'm not playing tour length courses or it would be a different story. Based on handicap they have charts showing how many fairways, greens, putts, etc. you need to get there and if you're hitting enough fairways may not matter.

 

Tinker away friend and find what feels good.

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6 hours ago, Brenkj said:

Man, this is a lot of people who are really glad they went with shorter shafts.  My problem is, my body and swing really seem to like a heavier swing weight, and I’m already using the heaviest swing weight I can find online for my TS2 driver.  So if I go shorter, I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the swing weight back up to what feels good for me.  

Just a heads-up, my 45” driver weighs-in at E2.

All you need to do is change to heavier weights if your driver has them, OR add hot melt, OR add lead tape. Shorter has nothing to do with whether-or-not you can “get back up to what feels good”. Simple. Go to a golf store that has a swing weight scale and get the weighting. Then cut a shaft to play at a desired length, then add weight back to the head.

Easy!

By-the-way, you’re not at the CLUB’S heaviest swing weight just because you have the heaviest Titleist weight for TS2. One can always add more outside of OEM provided weights...

Edited by Pmookie
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59 minutes ago, Brenkj said:

I just thought of a couple other questions.   (1) When I got fitted for my irons, they went with 1/2-inch longer shafts based on my height, arm length, swing, etc.    How should I factor that into whether shortening my driver is a good idea?     (2) If I do cut down my driver shaft a bit and it doesn't work out, can I add that length back on without screwing up the shaft?    I know that's an easy thing to do with an iron shaft, but what about a graphite driver shaft?

 

I'm excited about the prospect of hitting more fairways - and maybe even gaining a little distance, but my driver shaft wasn't cheap, and I'm nervous about cutting it if that's irreversible.      Thanks.

If you cut an inch from the butt, you can always get a 1” extension put back in. 

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5 minutes ago, Brenkj said:

Thanks a lot.  If it’s reversible by just epoxying an extension back on, I’m gonna start experimenting tomorrow.  

Eh, I'd talk to some club builders before you do that. Yes, adding an extension is easy. No, it's not a blanket assurance that it'll return the club to what it was like before. Different materials, etc. You can revert the playing length 100%, but it isn't reversing the cut.

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I took an inch off my 55g stock R1 shaft. It now measures 44.5" According to the calc it's D0 swing weight. I adjusted the shaft to 10.5 upright and it felt really good swinging in the backyard.

 

I am playing tomorrow around 11 and should get a dozen or more drives in.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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1 hour ago, Brenkj said:

Any thoughts on how much I should shorten the shaft as a starting point?    Obviously 1/8 inch wouldn't even make a difference, whereas 4 inches would be way too much.    Is 1/2 inch a good first step?    The driver is currently 45 inches, and i play my irons 1/2 inch longer (if that matters).    Thanks.

 

Is it a viable option to pick up another shaft to try shorter length?  That way you don't do something to the shaft you have, in case it doesn't work out.

 

Just a thought

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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1 hour ago, Brenkj said:

Thanks a lot.  If it’s reversible by just epoxying an extension back on, I’m gonna start experimenting tomorrow.  

 

I do my own clubfitting and would say trimming up to an inch off the butt end can easily be reversed by adding a standard extension. I have added a number of extensions up to an inch and have never noticed a discernable difference.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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