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Why don’t more people play component golf clubs?


woodriff

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I played components, mostly Maltby for years, then played mostly Pings for a number of years. Now back to mostly Maltby for many of the reasons you list pus I have always liked the look of the KE4 line specifically. However, if you tend to keep clubs for shorter periods of time(like many guys on here) cgasucks point is a big one. I would also like to point out that saying stuff like "Are golf consumers really that gullible ? " about someone's choice of equipment really doesn't put your argument in a positive light. 75% of the members here will read that and never visit this thread again.

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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6 minutes ago, Bad9 said:

I played components, mostly Maltby for years, then played mostly Pings for a number of years. Now back to mostly Maltby for many of the reasons you list pus I have always liked the look of the KE4 line specifically. However, if you tend to keep clubs for shorter periods of time(like many guys on here) cgasucks point is a big one. I would also like to point out that saying stuff like "Are golf consumers really that gullible ? " about someone's choice of equipment really doesn't put your argument in a positive light. 75% of the members here will read that and never visit this thread again.


point taken, and edited. 
w

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So far I have only purchased shafts, adapters, and grips from GolfWorks and had them assemble as well. I know they can build Maltby clubs too. Something to consider.

TaylorMade

  • Qi10 Max 10.5° | Fujikura Speeder NX 50-R
  • Qi10 Max Fairway 5 | Fujikura Ventus TR Blue FW 6-R
  • Stealth 2 Rescue 5 | Fujikura Ventus TR Red HB 6-R
  • Qi 6-A | Fujikura Ventus TR Blue 6-R

Maltby

  • TSW 54/10, 58/6 | Score LT R

Scotty Cameron

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Another point is that most players probably don't want to assemble clubs or try and figure out what they should get put together, they prefer to buy someting already assembled.

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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20 minutes ago, GHIN n Juice said:

I think most people have no idea where to find components, test components and/ buy them.  The one thing big OEMs have is marketing and distribution to consumers.  Why go find Maltby when Callaway is right there?

I had no idea about Maltby, Wishon, etc. until a few months ago. I started playing in mid-20s, took a decade+ off, and only started getting serious two years ago. Marketing plays a big deal. 

 

Just now, grillnugz said:

The main reason I haven't used component clubs is that 0.370" bore is rather common. I much prefer 0.355 and don't want to shim my brand new irons. Probably a silly reason lol.

 

Also, used OEM clubs can be rather cheap and good condition if you're willing to look around.

Going back to marketing -- most amateurs don't know about the difference between .370 and .335. The marketing of a club, without the finer details, makes it easier to pull the trigger and buy a set of irons.  

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24 minutes ago, GHIN n Juice said:

I think most people have no idea where to find components, test components and/ buy them.  The one thing big OEMs have is marketing and distribution to consumers.  Why go find Maltby when Callaway is right there?

 

I think this is likely harder than just finding a place to purchase.  I'm sure each place has a few clubs made up, but unless they are using clubconex or some other adaptor, it would be harder to try out heads with a variety of shafts.  The cost would be just too great for the Component OEM's to put out fit carts of all their offerings like the main OEM's do.

A Revolving Door

 

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Sometimes off the rack just works.

 

<edit> and the lack of lefty options. Have you seen all the iron sets Maltby offers in left? Doesn't take long to look. 🤣

Edited by lefthack
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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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1 minute ago, lefthack said:

Sometimes off the rack just works.

 

For most of my golf life, I've been in a position where it doesn't.  And, I'm actually glad about that....

 

If it would have been easier for me to acquire clubs when I was in full club ho mode, it would have been a lot uglier than it was.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, Rogue Black 75X -or- TM Stage 2 Tour 3w, NV105 X -or- TEE E8 Beta 12*, Rogue Silver 70X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S -or- TEE CBX 17*, HZRDUS 85 6.0

2 iron:  Arias D-23, Modus3 120 S; Mizuno MP-20 HMB, NS Pro 950 R

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S; testing: Arias D-23 5i w/Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3), Wilson Triad

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I played Maltby wedges for along time, I find OEM clubs easier to get access to and buy.

 

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Callaway Mavrik - Fujikura Pro 2.0 6-S stiff 
Tour Edge 3 wood - Mitsubishi Fubuki HL-55 stiff 
Callaway Apex 21 3 hybrid - UST Mamiya Recoil Dart 75 HYB stiff
Mizuno JPX921 Hot Metal 5-PW - Nippon N.S. PROGH neo stiff 

Haywood Signature 48°, 52°, 56°, 60° - KBS Tour stiff
PXG One & Done

 

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Resale is hot garbage water on them.

 

Most golfers buy OTR and if these are not in stores people will not buy them.

 

These are not in many fitters who do carry them so few people can test them. 

 

These are aimed at a very narrow segment of golfers and I'm sure that segment enjoys them but for the masses it's not worth it no matter how cheap they are. 

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Lefty - WITB Thread

Driver: 10° Cobra LTDxLS | AD-IZ 6X 

3W: 15° Callaway Paradym X | AD-IZ 7X

3H: 19° Ping G410 | Tensei CK Pro Orange 90TX

Irons: PXG 0311P 4-6 | 0317CB 7-PW | DG 120 X100

Wedges: SM9 50° - 54° - 58° 

Putter(s): Ping PLD Anser 4K | CMD Gauge R | and more. 

Ball: TP5X 2024

Bag: Ghost Katana

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2 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

For most of my golf life, I've been in a position where it doesn't.  And, I'm actually glad about that....

 

If it would have been easier for me to acquire clubs when I was in full club ho mode, it would have been a lot uglier than it was.

 

 

As a lefty, my options are limited to start with. Not much better at big box and custom shops still might only have a couple on hand. So "trial and error" is basically buy and resell.

 

Lucky for me I tend to buy low and sell high, so it works for me.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Resale value is seen by different people, different ways. 

 

My $1300 irons with after market $650 shafts, cost $1950+.  I could buy component set for under $400.  I surely wouldn't put a $650 set of shafts in components heads.   For that matter I wouldn't put a $350 set of shafts in a $300 component heads.

 

If I were to sell my clubs today, I'd get $1000-$1200, and they'd sell quickly.   The aforementioned component set a year later +/- $200, and it would take much longer to sell them.  All depends on what someone can afford.  

 

 

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I could care less on the resale value. I want clubs that will get my shots from Point A to B consistently as possible. I've had some nice component clubs in the past, I still have some love for Nakashima irons that was really good for me.

Edited by br61

62 yr old's Bag of Hacking Utensils

Callaway Rogue Max LS 10.5 Ventus Red Velocore 6-S 

TSR2 10* Ventus Blue Velocore 6-S

Callaway Paradym TD 15* & AI Smoke TD 7 wood

Callaway Paradym 5-AW AMT Black S300

SM9 52* & 58*

Odyssey DART 47"

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I think they definitely have their place. Just purchased a set of 6-GW Maltby STi2 irons for my mother. with assembly, her grip of choice, and an appropriate shaft it came to about $450 CAD, which is a fantastic deal considering most other USED sets we could find in ladies left with graphite were either Cobra F series, or taylormade SIM irons and around $800-1000 for a similar makeup. 

 

For me personally however, I like to see, feel, and hit before purchase. We all know that pictures online don't always translate well to what the product actually looks like in person, especially irons at address. It's much easier for me to either go to the local golf box store, or the local used store and sort through everything and find something I prefer. What's my other choice, go all in on components and fingers crossed I like it, if I don't then I have no resale. Or just purchase a 7 iron to my specs and hope that works out or it's a $100-150 lesson learned. I'd rather spend the $600 on a used set of Titleist or Mizuno irons, play with them and sell them down the line for not all that much less. Just like cars, let someone else take the biggest depreciation hit.

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I was a LONG time component player. Started out as a hobby but then the value proposition at the time was hard to beat. Golfsmith and it's fantastic forgings (Pro Forged, 600B/C, 675) and Wishon made it really easy to build a high quality bag at a fraction of the price.  And those components still had great resale value (Maltby still does).  Played some of my best golf with a Wishon 919 driver, 949 3W, 575MMC irons and some Maltby Wedges.

 

But then the OEMs flooded the market and the used club market took a huge off and now with so much NOS or several year old OEMs on eBay the components no longer have the value over OEM.  My G30 driver and 3W cost way less with the Ping Tour 65 shaft than it would've cost to build new and will be easier to sell.   

 

So I'm not against components, but it would have to be an outstanding club to take the plunge.

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Maltby KE4 TC Max MPF Pro Stiff
Callaway Rogue 3W Synergy 60

Maltby KE4 Tour TC 19*, 22* Matrix  HX3 White Tie
Taylormade Burner TP Japan Issue 5-PW DG120

Callaway MD4 Raw 52*, 58* DG115
Maltby PTM-5

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I just priced out some Maltby TS-1 Forged. 4-P, with Modus 105 and z-grips were ~$690. Making them about $100/club built buy Golf Works. The new Srixon zx7 irons are $163/club and they have many custom shaft option upgrades at no additional cost and can build to spec. Ping i210 4-P with TT dynamic gold 120 are $875 or $125/club on TGW right now.

 

I never found the cost savings to amount to enough to justify component clubs. The real cost savings comes in if you use generic/cheap grips and shafts with the component heads. 

 

I can attest to the low resale value though. My first set of irons were Callaway knock offs and were very cheap ($100 3-P). Nice, high quality clubs too.

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My first real set of clubs back in the '80's was a set of Golfsmith Tour Model II irons I built myself, my second set was a custom made set of TA 845 clones that were great clubs.  I have played mostly name brands since then, except for a few random FW's/hybrids and a KZG driver I used for a couple years.  

 

The best way to buy clubs is to have them custom built by a fitter, and we have a local guy who can get name brand components, which is the optimal route.  Technically all clubs are components if you go to a place like this, some just cost more than others.   

 

Some people like a brand new Mac Book, some like to build a computer from components as well, the list goes on with things that can be built vs. purchased.  I had an uncle who built his own house, my guess is most of us just bought one already built.  

 

Nothing wrong with Maltby clubs etc. if you like to dabble in that kind of thing and have the equipment to do it right.  Slapping a set together is not difficult, doing it so the swingweights, frequencies and lie angles etc. are correct takes more than some epoxy and a shaft cutter.  I still regrip my own clubs, and I have changed a few shafts over the years, but I leave most of it to the pros now.  

Edited by dlygrisse
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Ping G400 Testing G410.  10.5 set at small -
Ping G410 3, 5 and 7 wood

Ping G410 5 hybrid-not much use.  
Mizuno JPX 921 Hot Metal. 5-G
Vokey 54.10, 2009 58.12 M, Testing TM MG2 60* TW grind and MG3 56* TW grind.  Or Ping Glide Stealth, 54,58 SS.  
Odyssey Pro #1 black
Hoofer, Ecco, Bushnell
ProV1x-mostly
 

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