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How to trim dynamic gold s300 (butt and tip) from 41 inch down to wedge length?


is200LS

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I bought 2 piece of 41 inch s300 shaft and I would like to trim them to standard length for a 54 and 60 degree wedge, is there a guide that I can follow? I'd like to keep the same stiffness or a little stiffer would be fine. thanks.

I do have a stock vokey wedge with s200 shaft, would that be a good template to follow?

 

Edit: First time reshafting using blanks myself. Both heads fit .370 parallel tip. I bought 41 inch blanks with parallel tip, store say I can cut them to the spec I like. I have not taken apart big brand wedges, all my wedges that I currently use besides the P which came from set are assembled from components.

Edited by is200LS
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1 hour ago, is200LS said:

I bought 2 piece of 41 inch s300 shaft and I would like to trim them to standard length from a 54 and 60 degree wedge, is there a guide that I can follow? I'd like to keep the same stiffness or a little stiffer would be fine. thanks.

I do have a stock vokey wedge with s200 shaft, would that be a good template to follow?

 

If those are the parallel tip versions of the DG, here is the trimming information (which usually can be found at the shaft manufacturer's web site):

https://www.truetemper.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Dynamic-Gold-TrimGuide.pdf

 

Use the same tipping for all wedges (so same tipping as listed for the PW).

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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24 minutes ago, PEI_Golfer said:

I would have to think it would be far easier to just buy the right shafts for the job vs. going this route (assuming it's .355).

 

I have not seen new precut shafts. Because there isn't a a "standard" length precut doesn't make sense.

 

I had fun trying to figure out just how long each of my irons were and ended up building to match my existing set.

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6 minutes ago, lefthack said:

 

I have not seen new precut shafts. Because there isn't a a "standard" length precut doesn't make sense.

 

I had fun trying to figure out just how long each of my irons were and ended up building to match my existing set.

 

What do you mean by "new, precut"?  .370 are basically blanks and trimmed as needed from both ends.  .355s aren't this way and made to just be butt trimmed.  

 

Something like this:

 

True Temper Dynamic Gold 115 .355" Steel Wedge Shafts | The GolfWorks

 

or

 

True Temper Dynamic Gold .355" Steel Iron Shafts (golfworks.com)

 

would be the right shafts for the job.  Prep tip, install and then butt trim to desired length.  There is no "pre cut length" unless you inform them you want the shafts to play a certain length, and then they will trim for you for a price.

Edited by PEI_Golfer

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2 minutes ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

What do you mean by "new, precut"?  .370 are basically blanks and trimmed as needed from both ends.  .355s aren't this way and made to just be butt trimmed.  

 

Something like this:

 

True Temper Dynamic Gold 115 .355" Steel Wedge Shafts | The GolfWorks

 

or

 

True Temper Dynamic Gold .355" Steel Iron Shafts (golfworks.com)

 

would be the right shafts for the job.  Prep tip, install and then butt trim to desired length.  There is no "pre cut length" unless you inform them you want the shafts to play a certain length, and then they will trim for you for a price.

How do we know taper tip shafts are right for the job?  Nowhere does the OP say whether his heads take taper tip or parallel shafts.

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3 hours ago, gdb99 said:

You bought the wrong length shafts. A 41” S300 taper tip shaft is for a 1 iron.  Wedge shafts are 37”, and you trim to length from the butt end only. 

How do you know he bought the wrong shafts?  Parallel tip shafts start out as 41" long blanks.  If his wedges take parallel tip shafts, then he bought exactly the right shafts. 

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1 hour ago, drumdude96 said:

How do we know taper tip shafts are right for the job?  Nowhere does the OP say whether his heads take taper tip or parallel shafts.

 

How many OEM (gee, another assumption here that is what he is using) wedges have been using .370s?  Yes, clarification would be great on this, but by going on past history of the majority of wedges produced and sold in the last 20 years, virtually non are .370 unless boutique/small OEM.

 

You replied to 2 comments with 'how do you know', well...  How do you know...?.

Edited by PEI_Golfer
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1 hour ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

How many OEM (gee, another assumption here that is what he is using) wedges have been using .370s?  Yes, clarification would be great on this, but by going on past history of the majority of wedges produced and sold in the last 20 years, virtually non are .370 unless boutique/small OEM.

 

You replied to 2 comments with 'how do you know', well...  How do you know...?.

 

What's the point of asking him that?  He's not the one making assumptions so he's not saying he knows anything about which one the OP "should" be using (or even which one he bought).  There is a big difference between making assumptions and challenging them.

 

 

But more importantly, sometimes it's about much more than just the tip size of the hosel.   Taper and parallel DG's are different shafts, more different than just whether or not there is a taper added to the tip.  Both stiffness and weight will be different - particularly when used in a wedge.  Parallel DG is going to be lighter and softer.  Neither one is better or worse than the other.  For some, the taper might be a better fit, for others the parallel will be a better fit and for yet another group, the difference is going to be negligible and they could use either one equally as well.

Edited by Stuart_G
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Sorry everyone, I “assumed” he was using Vokey wedges because he said he had shafts that came out of Vokey wedges that he is going to match for length.

Sure makes me an as$. 
 

I hope you all can forgive me.

 

OP, you need to know what size tip you need, either .355 taper tip or .370 parallel tip. 

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4 hours ago, drumdude96 said:

How do you know he bought the wrong shafts?  Parallel tip shafts start out as 41" long blanks.  If his wedges take parallel tip shafts, then he bought exactly the right shafts. 


Sorry, I was running late for work, and forgot to mention tip size. I was thinking about him (I’m assuming) having correct tip size. I just forgot to add that to my response. 
Thanks so much for letting me know my mistake. 

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4 hours ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

How many OEM (gee, another assumption here that is what he is using) wedges have been using .370s?  Yes, clarification would be great on this, but by going on past history of the majority of wedges produced and sold in the last 20 years, virtually non are .370 unless boutique/small OEM.

 

You replied to 2 comments with 'how do you know', well...  How do you know...?.

The poor OP asked a simple question and he basically got flamed.  He could very well be using some component heads that take .370 shafts.  I guess nobody stopped to think about that before ripping his head off, though.  There are also plenty of OEM's using .370 tip shafts in wedges.  They are usually set wedges that go to SGI clubs, but it does happen.  More info from the OP would be nice, but let's not make him feel like a complete idiot.

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My PW that is with my set is .370 but I used S200 shafts. Totally different. 🤣

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

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7 hours ago, gdb99 said:

 


Sorry, I was running late for work, and forgot to mention tip size. I was thinking about him (I’m assuming) having correct tip size. I just forgot to add that to my response. 
Thanks so much for letting me know my mistake. 

 

9 hours ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

How many OEM (gee, another assumption here that is what he is using) wedges have been using .370s?  Yes, clarification would be great on this, but by going on past history of the majority of wedges produced and sold in the last 20 years, virtually non are .370 unless boutique/small OEM.

 

You replied to 2 comments with 'how do you know', well...  How do you know...?.

My mistake for not providing all the information, the second post basically answered my question. Indeed I'm using heads from small oem that uses .370 parallel.

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7 hours ago, gdb99 said:

Sorry everyone, I “assumed” he was using Vokey wedges because he said he had shafts that came out of Vokey wedges that he is going to match for length.

Sure makes me an as$. 
 

I hope you all can forgive me.

 

OP, you need to know what size tip you need, either .355 taper tip or .370 parallel tip. 

Sorry, and LOL I was also running late for work, I thought I just post this and check back tonight. end up not providing all the info. I have a stock SM7 56 degree. I was thinking that I can use that as a template for tip trimming by matching where the steps begin. and the overall length.

Edited by is200LS
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9 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

What's the point of asking him that?  He's not the one making assumptions so he's not saying he knows anything about which one the OP "should" be using (or even which one he bought).  There is a big difference between making assumptions and challenging them.

 

 

But more importantly, sometimes it's about much more than just the tip size of the hosel.   Taper and parallel DG's are different shafts, more different than just whether or not there is a taper added to the tip.  Both stiffness and weight will be different - particularly when used in a wedge.  Parallel DG is going to be lighter and softer.  Neither one is better or worse than the other.  For some, the taper might be a better fit, for others the parallel will be a better fit and for yet another group, the difference is going to be negligible and they could use either one equally as well.

Assuming they are cut from the butt and tip alike, the tapered and parallel DG are different in weight and stiffness? how is this possible?

Edit, I went to check the drawing of the shaft, tapered tip have 12 steps on the shaft, parallel blanks have 11 steps varying in length, strange why they would make shaft like this. this is helpful information btw I can just measure the length of the steps to find out its tapered or parallel.

Edited by is200LS
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3 minutes ago, is200LS said:

I don't know what the difference is between s200 and s300, I heard the s300 is just 3 grams heavier, both are equally stiff.

 

Something like that. S200's are just S300's that didn't make weight. S400's are S300's that are too heavy.

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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36 minutes ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

When you cite wedges from sgi sets as your fact of "plenty of OEM's use .370", oofff...

 

My KZG blades are .370, what's the big deal? 

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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1 minute ago, PEI_Golfer said:

 

And in the context of this thread about wedges, what would your KZG blades have to do with anything?

 

I have both a pitching and sand version of those?

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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9 hours ago, is200LS said:

Assuming they are cut from the butt and tip alike, the tapered and parallel DG are different in weight and stiffness? how is this possible?

 

Taper tip versions are const weight shafts.  That means the shaft in each iron ends up the same weight despite being cut progressively shorter/longer.  Each shaft (e.g. 7i shaft vs 6i shaft) is designed and manufactured separately so they don't all start from the same blank like with the parallel version.  Unlike with the parallel tip shafts that while the longest taper tip (41"  2i) shaft might be the same length and weight as the parallel tip, the parallel tip version will get lighter as more is cut off for the shorter irons.  

 

e.g. so the parallel shaft uncut is 41" and weighs 127 gm.   The taper wedge shaft is about the same weight but only 37" uncut.  That means with the wedges,  the cut shaft weight could end up to be ~10-12 gm lighter with the parallel than with the taper tip since 4" more has to be removed despite starting at the same uncut weight.

 

Now the difference in stiffness is as much a result of the different step pattern.   It may or may not be noticeable in the wedges.  But bottom line is give it a try you might not notice a difference - or you might even like it if you do.   Just don't be surprised if it's not exactly the same feel as the vokey - which uses a taper tip version of the shaft.

 

 

9 hours ago, is200LS said:

I don't know what the difference is between s200 and s300, I heard the s300 is just 3 grams heavier, both are equally stiff.

 

With steel, manufacturing variations in weight mean a variation in wall thickness which means a variation in stiffness.   It's not a large variation - most ams wouldn't be able to notice the difference in the wedges.

Edited by Stuart_G
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