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MCC plus4 vs tapered midsize grip


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Currently I am playing a midsize UTx and I am thinking of going to a standard size MCC plus4. The UTx mid is just a tad too large for me. My concern is the bottom hand on the plus4. How does it compare to the bottom hand on a tapered mid size grip? Is it larger/smaller? I cant seem to find any good info online.

 

Basically I am looking for a grip that would feel sorta like an in between between a standard size and mid size grip.  

 

 

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There has been options to this before +4 came to the marketplace New Decade has a very sharp taper shape, so it was normal to adjust the taper, especially for wedges, but it can be used on all clubs

I recently switched from TV midsize to Sonar+ standard and I feel the bottom hand size is comparable between these two grips.  

I felt like the Golf Pride Multi-Compound MCC standard was too small and Mid-size was too big. I found the +4 to be just right.    I used to play Winn Dura-tech Midsize but they no longer make

2 minutes ago, Austincountyag said:

Currently I am playing a midsize UTx and I am thinking of going to a standard size MCC plus4. The UTx mid is just a tad too large for me. My concern is the bottom hand on the plus4. How does it compare to the bottom hand on a tapered mid size grip? Is it larger/smaller? I cant seem to find any good info online.

 

Basically I am looking for a grip that would feel sorta like an in between between a standard size and mid size grip.  

 

 

If you want the grip slightly bigger, you can ask for an extra wrap of tape on the grip... it will bulk it up slightly.

 

the plus 4 will basically eliminate the taper of the grip, so your top hand would still be holding a standard grip.

 

Adding a wrap of tape should be a simple ask for anyone putting grips on your clubs. Have them do one and see how it feels.

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I felt like the Golf Pride Multi-Compound MCC standard was too small and Mid-size was too big. I found the +4 to be just right. 
 

I used to play Winn Dura-tech Midsize but they no longer make them. They felt more firm (better to me) than the Winn Dri-tac’s and the size fit
 

Turns out, I like the firmer feel in my irons and less firm in my Driver.  

The Winn Dri-tac Midsize feel in between a Golf Pride MCC standard and Midsize, but they are softer. If you’re sensitive to grip firmness 
 

Like mentioned before, you can add grip tape. I was adding +1 on top and +3 on the bottom with Golf Pride grips for years before the +4 came out, and that worked well. 
 

I play Golf Pride MCC standard  +4  in my irons and a Winn dri-tac midsize in my woods! I don’t notice the size difference, only firmness in my hands. 


 

 

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1 hour ago, Austincountyag said:

I am not looking to make the plus4 bigger. I just want to make sure that the bottom hand on the standard size plus4 would not be any larger than the bottom hand on a normal tapered midsize grip. 

Its the same size as the top of the standard grip... It shouldn’t be bigger than the bottom of a midsize grip.

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13 minutes ago, heathpitts said:

Regarding your search to find an in-between, this is exactly why I like the MCC+4 midsize. I felt the standard MCC+4 was too small for me but the midsize+4 is sort of an in between IMO and perfect for my hands

 

Mcc+4 is just a midsized grip with a reduced taper, unless I’m taking crazy pills... i play midsize grips and put one (with align) on my driver yesterday...

 

he’s looking for slightly larger than standard, maybe just for the lower hand? 
 

I stand by my original suggestion of tape. They can add an extra wrap on the top and two on the bottom and build a +2 grip.

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I'm on the grip carousel at the moment. Have played midsize for 8 years and now thinking about going to a standard size grip. Reduced taper grips feel amazing but can have a significant impact on your release. During my winter testing (midsize grips only) I felt like the plus 4 grips had a lower hand that was too big for me. Inhibited the release, hit a lot of blocks, less control over the trajectory. So I took a midsize with standard taper (TV Align Mid) and added two wraps to the lower hand. End result was a grip that felt awesome and shots that were all going right. Worst decision ever and now taking them all off. 

 

I love UTx grips and will be putting on standard UTx next. One thing you have to keep in mind is that UTx has a .580 core and will feel slightly larger than the same size grip with a .600 core. A standard .580 grip with 2 wraps (+1) is exactly halfway between a .600 standard and a .600 midsize. I also find that Lamkins taper a little less than GP. 

 

So what do you do? I would be curious to see how you get along with either a .600 midsize with standard taper, a .600 standard with reduced taper, or a .580 standard with extra wraps. All three will feel smaller than what you currently game. All three will have different taper rates. You will only find out what is right by putting a few different grips on, taking them on the course, and using them in an actual round of golf. Not the range. Everything feels good on the range.....

 

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45 minutes ago, dhacker56 said:

Get a tour Velvet plus 4  grip half the cost and try it out...  I have played MCC plus 4s for years and the Velvets are every bit as goog with better feel and CHEAPER!!

I would recommend this too. I don't like the different feeling of MCC and Velvet plus 4 solves everything. Especially like it for a driver. 

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Personally. I don't like the +4s. They feel to baseball bat'ish.. I just go standard midsize. 

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13 hours ago, NJPhil said:

I recently switched from TV midsize to Sonar+ standard and I feel the bottom hand size is comparable between these two grips.  

 

I did the same and am well pleased with the reduced taper style grips.

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14 hours ago, Austincountyag said:

Currently I am playing a midsize UTx and I am thinking of going to a standard size MCC plus4. The UTx mid is just a tad too large for me. My concern is the bottom hand on the plus4. How does it compare to the bottom hand on a tapered mid size grip? Is it larger/smaller? I cant seem to find any good info online.

 

Basically I am looking for a grip that would feel sorta like an in between between a standard size and mid size grip.  

 

 


There has been options to this before +4 came to the marketplace
New Decade has a very sharp taper shape, so it was normal to adjust the taper, especially for wedges, but it can be used on all clubs and all grips.

My way of doing this was to make 4 layers of BU tape but with 2.25" inch length difference
- The "tape area" under the grip is 10 inch long, but we dont want added butt diameter, only "reduced taper", so the first layer of BU is 9.0" inch, starting 1 inch below the butt.
- Second layer is minus 2.25" or 6.75" long, but now we start from the front so this layer stops 3.35 inch from the butt.
- Third layer is 4.5 inch long starting from the front.
- forth layer is 2.25" from the front.

We dont get a taper identical to +4 but a little less, since its only the lowest part or 2.25" inch that has 4 layers, and we want be using that part of the grip unless we lower our hands, so with a regular hand position, you have 2-3 layers under the lowest hand instead of 4.

If we want, we can add FULL length layers as a start if we want a larger over all size.

 

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On 3/25/2021 at 10:25 PM, Howard_Jones said:


There has been options to this before +4 came to the marketplace
New Decade has a very sharp taper shape, so it was normal to adjust the taper, especially for wedges, but it can be used on all clubs and all grips.

My way of doing this was to make 4 layers of BU tape but with 2.25" inch length difference
- The "tape area" under the grip is 10 inch long, but we dont want added butt diameter, only "reduced taper", so the first layer of BU is 9.0" inch, starting 1 inch below the butt.
- Second layer is minus 2.25" or 6.75" long, but now we start from the front so this layer stops 3.35 inch from the butt.
- Third layer is 4.5 inch long starting from the front.
- forth layer is 2.25" from the front.

We dont get a taper identical to +4 but a little less, since its only the lowest part or 2.25" inch that has 4 layers, and we want be using that part of the grip unless we lower our hands, so with a regular hand position, you have 2-3 layers under the lowest hand instead of 4.

If we want, we can add FULL length layers as a start if we want a larger over all size.

 

 

Thanks for posting this. Makes a lot of sense. When you say "especially for wedges", is it common practice to change the grip taper rate for different clubs? Is there any logic to adding +1 wrap in the lower hand for driver, +2 for fairways, +3 for irons, +4 for wedges? 

 

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Just to be that guy in midsize i found the bottom half of the Plus4 so soft and squishy it was a game changer. I felt there was little stability in the bottom hand it was so soft. I've never had this problem before tho i remember the standard No1 grip felt awfully torquey. 

 

I use Tour Velvet Align midsize and love them. No drama with the old MCC midsize variants either. 

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9 hours ago, cw1209 said:

 

Thanks for posting this. Makes a lot of sense. When you say "especially for wedges", is it common practice to change the grip taper rate for different clubs? Is there any logic to adding +1 wrap in the lower hand for driver, +2 for fairways, +3 for irons, +4 for wedges? 

 



Its not about logic or a "system" but comfort and what works.

For WEDGES we often play a stroke we call "follow trough" where we DONT rotate the club trough impact but try to keep face angle the same even after impact. More "meat" under the lowest hand works as a stabilizer for this. A "thin" grip size on the lowest hand makes it harder to keep FA the same so when we add diameter, that stroke is easier. Next is those times we lower our hands on the grip and make the club shorter on purpose. Then this asymmetrical BU is good again since we dont go lower on grip size, we are still "way above" standard, so the lower part will be like the MID section on a standard grip.

If you tend to hook or close up to much on your driver, then a larger diameter for the lowest hand can improve some of that and work as a stabilizer, so this is comfort, and to a certain level face angle control.

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