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Iron Heads Slipping Off Shafts | Dynamic Gold S300


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I just purchased a used (but very nice) set of Ben Hogan Ft. Worth 15s a week ago. I'm loving the set, but the first time out using them, the 36 degree head slipped off the shaft. I figure it's not a big deal and I re-epoxied the head. All was right until today when another head slipped, the 28 degree this time. 

 

I can tell from the ferrules that the current shafts are aftermarket, so my first assumption was that the previous owner did a poor glue job across the set. But since I'm still new to the club building world, I'm second guessing myself and am a little worried that the incorrect shafts were installed. Current shafts are Dynamic Gold S300 120. My admittedly inexpensive calipers are showing .34" at the tip and .35" about an inch up the shaft, so I assume they're tapered and not parallel. Is the job as easy as pulling all the heads and making sure they're glued properly this time? 

 

Thanks for any help in advance!

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That's what I figured. I don't mind the work to redo the set, it was the idea of purchasing new shafts that had me worried. 

Proper size ferrules are built to be snug which is why they make installation tools for them.  I have never seen a ferrule split....

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My guess would be poor glue job. I just started building my own a few weeks ago and have had to redo a few. 

 

I now give each club a little twist before I hit it to make sure the shaft doesn't spin.  🤣

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Might need to check and see if the heads are made for parallel or taper tip shafts. If they’re made for parallel, then you would most likely need to use a shim with taper tip shafts. There’s too much wiggle room with tapered shafts in parallel heads for just epoxy to hold.


If that’s the case, it’s probably worth pulling them and doing them all again or getting new shafts.

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I would pull them with a propane torch all and have them rebuilt. Extremely worth while to pull grips off as well to allow proper air flow while epoxy is curing. If the butt end it sealed, you can create pressure which can push off the head while curing. Not likely but definitely can happen. Make sure you use good fitting ferrules to prevent ferrule slip later down the road. I buy mine from eBay from a store called Grail Golf. If I have .355 shafts (which I'm sure you have) I usually but .350 ferrules and boil them for 15 seconds before pressing them on with the head. I then let them cool down on the shaft to ensure a tight fit. Only issue with this method is the ferrules will be so tight, you will have to pull them off with some sort of rubber grip ( I use the rubber shaft clamp from my vise).

 

From what I've read, Ben Hogan irons are almost all .355 tapered tip. While they make iron shafts smaller than that, small probability that is what you have. 

 

If you plan on doing this yourself, buy good quality shafting epoxy along with shafting beads. Do not simply go buy epoxy from the big box store. There is some back and forth about whether you need the shafting beads but they certainly help the strength of the bond. Use 80-100 grit sandpaper to clean off the shaft tips (no higher than the ferrule will fit). They make special tools to clean out the iron hosels but I find using a proper sized drill bit for reeming out the old epoxy and then simply using some low grit rolled up sandpaper works in a pinch. I then use alcohol with q tips and a rag to wipe everything down. With epoxy, you want everything to be as clean and roughed up as possible. Here is a really good video (Pt 1 - 3) to explain how to put everything together. 

 

How To Build Golf Clubs pt 1

How to Build Golf Clubs PT 2

How To Build Golf Clubs pt 3

 

Building clubs is an art. It's taken me 9-10 tries to even get close to right. That's just the mechanical part. We haven't dug into dry fitting for swing weighting or frequency matching.

 

Once you have everything together, you can finish the ferrules yourself with some 220 grit sandpaper and some acetone (unless you have a belt sander). PGA Tour Superstore will do that along with check lies and lofts for $30. Good luck.

 

 

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Just looking at the ferrule choice it's probably just a poor job. Redo the whole thing with the nice red ring ferrules.

 

Boiling ferrules? Why don't you just put a dab of epoxy on it.

Edited by DYOS4

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14 minutes ago, DYOS4 said:

Boiling ferrules? Why don't you just put a dab of epoxy on it.

 

 

Done for opposite reasons.  Ideally you use ferrules that are really snug to fit and the heat will help temporarily expand them for install so you aren't worried about having to glue them.

Edited by Golfrnut

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2 hours ago, mjhuffer said:

I would pull them with a propane torch all and have them rebuilt. Extremely worth while to pull grips off as well to allow proper air flow while epoxy is curing. If the butt end it sealed, you can create pressure which can push off the head while curing. Not likely but definitely can happen. Make sure you use good fitting ferrules to prevent ferrule slip later down the road. I buy mine from eBay from a store called Grail Golf. If I have .355 shafts (which I'm sure you have) I usually but .350 ferrules and boil them for 15 seconds before pressing them on with the head. I then let them cool down on the shaft to ensure a tight fit. Only issue with this method is the ferrules will be so tight, you will have to pull them off with some sort of rubber grip ( I use the rubber shaft clamp from my vise).

 

From what I've read, Ben Hogan irons are almost all .355 tapered tip. While they make iron shafts smaller than that, small probability that is what you have. 

 

If you plan on doing this yourself, buy good quality shafting epoxy along with shafting beads. Do not simply go buy epoxy from the big box store. There is some back and forth about whether you need the shafting beads but they certainly help the strength of the bond. Use 80-100 grit sandpaper to clean off the shaft tips (no higher than the ferrule will fit). They make special tools to clean out the iron hosels but I find using a proper sized drill bit for reeming out the old epoxy and then simply using some low grit rolled up sandpaper works in a pinch. I then use alcohol with q tips and a rag to wipe everything down. With epoxy, you want everything to be as clean and roughed up as possible. Here is a really good video (Pt 1 - 3) to explain how to put everything together. 

 

How To Build Golf Clubs pt 1

How to Build Golf Clubs PT 2

How To Build Golf Clubs pt 3

 

Building clubs is an art. It's taken me 9-10 tries to even get close to right. That's just the mechanical part. We haven't dug into dry fitting for swing weighting or frequency matching.

 

Once you have everything together, you can finish the ferrules yourself with some 220 grit sandpaper and some acetone (unless you have a belt sander). PGA Tour Superstore will do that along with check lies and lofts for $30. Good luck.

 

 

 

The grip can stay on no problem.  I do lots of builds where the grip goes on before gluing.  Poke a hole in the grip tape at the butt of the shaft if you are worried but there is plenty of air volume in the shaft such that the shaft won't air lock and push back out.  Just make sure the shaft tip has an air passage through it.

 

Shafting beads reduce bond strength in golf clubs and are not needed.  There purpose is to maintain a film thickness in lap joints.  There use in golf clubs is a misapplication of the material (micro glass spheres.)  With modern epoxies a small pinch won't hurt anything but still, why?

 

True Temper recommends 150 grit sandpaper to abrade the shaft tip.

 

Acetone or MEK is much better at cleaning the metal before bonding.  IA is weak sauce in comparison when it comes to degreasing.  The metal in the hosel and shaft tip should be what's termed "white metal" which means it's freshly exposed down to the raw metal and degreased completely.  

 

 

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2 hours ago, Golfrnut said:

 

 

Done for opposite reasons.  Ideally you use ferrules that are really snug to fit and the heat will help temporarily expand them for install so you aren't worried about having to glue 

I understand why he is heating them up, my point being use ferrules that fit/are proper size so you aren't heating up a pot of water in your kitchen. Also, as you know, the smaller ferrules can/will split in half when installed on a shaft too big.

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56 minutes ago, DYOS4 said:

I understand why he is heating them up, my point being use ferrules that fit/are proper size so you aren't heating up a pot of water in your kitchen. Also, as you know, the smaller ferrules can/will split in half when installed on a shaft too big.

 

Proper size ferrules are built to be snug which is why they make installation tools for them.  I have never seen a ferrule split....

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8 minutes ago, Golfrnut said:

 

Proper size ferrules are built to be snug which is why they make installation tools for them.  I have never seen a ferrule split....

Are you serious? I'm glad though. Usually happens with shorter/smaller ones but it has happened to 1/2 inchers too.

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1 hour ago, trav_158 said:

That shaft looks like it has a tip weight in there as well, so make sure to remove it and clean the inside of the shaft of any epoxy.  if you can re-use the tip weights, make sure to drill a hole though the center to allow for air passage.

 

 

That make no sense to me, did they drill a hole on original install?  Granted that's a tip weight I've never seen or worked with.  I use the brass ones that have a lip that actually sits up against the outside of the shaft tip to prevent it from sliding up into the shaft should the epoxy break loose.

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1 hour ago, halliedog said:

That make no sense to me, did they drill a hole on original install?  Granted that's a tip weight I've never seen or worked with.  I use the brass ones that have a lip that actually sits up against the outside of the shaft tip to prevent it from sliding up into the shaft should the epoxy break loose.

The ones I’ve seen and used have a small hole directly in the center. But regardless of where, there has to be a vent so the air isn’t trapped in the hosel during assembly. 

134D5F6C-5DFF-47A2-B66C-67D35CA052EB.png

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44 minutes ago, trav_158 said:

The ones I’ve seen and used have a small hole directly in the center. But regardless of where, there has to be a vent so the air isn’t trapped in the hosel during assembly. 

134D5F6C-5DFF-47A2-B66C-67D35CA052EB.png

Yes, that's exactly what I use, but never really had any issues re-using them.  I always figured the air would escape the hosel when pushing the shaft tip in, where as with the air in the shaft on re-shafts with grip tape still covering the butt there would be more pressure trapped in there to push out?  Anyway, to each their own, whatever works, etc...  Plus it's great to have a great resource like this place to bounce ideas off of and get advice from a bunch of experts.

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Yes the forum is an awesome resource.
 

I’m just saying usually when you go to re use the tip weights, the vent hole is clogged with epoxy, so you should drill it out to maintain that vent... I don’t like hoping the air vents out the hosel during assembly. 
 

The volume of air in the entire shaft is so much more than the hosel, the pressure would be much less (if not vented through the grip).  
 

These holes are put here for this purpose, so I just try to maintain them. 

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