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BB&F Ferrule fit issue


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I was super excited to get these BB&F Ferrules on my new build but I have now had to cut two off because I cannot get them on the tip of the shaft, I tried the hot water trick but cannot get them even close.  the one I did get on was all marred up from trying to force it on which was irritating to say the least but when I went to measure the club again it was 1/4" longer because I could not get the shaft all the way in due to the ferrule.  

 

Has anyone else experienced this with BB&F.  its a shame I was super excited about these and now im going to have to build my clubs with a standard ferrule and wasted $80 on two sets that are useless to me now.

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file the inside of them to make them wider.

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Did you measure shaft and tips? You arent trying to shove a .355 ferrule on a .370 shaft are you. The best way to get snug fit ferrules installed, and better than hot water trick in my opinion is just a quick blast with heat gun. Maybe 1-3 seconds, push down with clubhead and good to go.

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Roll up some sandpaper and sand the inside.

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When ferrules are tight like that I use a .370 reamer on the ID to resize them.  Some shafts, like DG, are quite fat and ferrules fit poorly on them unless reamed.

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I heat them with a lighter rather than with the torch. It heats them up without melting them. Then just cleanup after with acetone. 

Edited by mogc60

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I had a couple that were snug.  I hit it with a lighter and tried to move it with my hands and ruined it.  It was a bummer but I didn't know any of these tricks either.  After ruining that one I swore I'd never buy them again but after reading some of these tips, I feel like an idiot and will definitely try again.  LOL

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59 minutes ago, Nessism said:

When ferrules are tight like that I use a .370 reamer on the ID to resize them.  Some shafts, like DG, are quite fat and ferrules fit poorly on them unless reamed.

 

I second that. Works very well.

 

...and I have to LOL hard at all the hacks posting to use torch or lighter.

Edited by autronicdsm
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If it ain’t tight it ain’t right. Get yourselves one of these it’s an indispensable tool. Measure the hosel depth and tap it down with a hammer. If that doesn’t work revert to the ideas on this thread. 
 

https://www.golfworks.com/ferrule-installation-tool/p/gw0123/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpKCDBhBPEiwAFgBzj-ouxv2o5Ez8aE79svhCxmk8kevSSzltr5A7wElB66Epx_lqdxTKeRoCViQQAvD_BwE

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Heat gun on low setting, keep turning the shaft. You won't melt/screw up anything if you keep pushing it slowly down, and carefully.

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If you're too cheap to buy the tool, drill a 3/8" hole in the endgrain of a block of wood. My method of choice for years, and super easy to get even the tightest ferrules on.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Scotty Cameron Oil Can Newport (1998) - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

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13 hours ago, Nessism said:

When ferrules are tight like that I use a .370 reamer on the ID to resize them.  Some shafts, like DG, are quite fat and ferrules fit poorly on them unless reamed.

I recently used the BB&Fs on a set of Mizuno 919 HMP irons I just built. I used a drill to open up the ferrules and then a little heat gun action to get them on....work out great!

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I put some epoxy on the shaft tip and they glide right up. Dry, they’re tight. Just need some lube. 
 

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Edited by ckay
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ya I have been doing club work for years and all my sets I have put together over the years.  these were tighter than normal, in fact the other set I purchased slid on fine.  I measured the ID of the ferrule and they are undersized per their spec.  looks like they are taking care of me on this one, great customer service went through all the typical mistakes some would make then eventually measured them with a caliper and non of them were the 0.365" or larger which was surprising as im sure they use the same tool but who knows.  I wonder if because they were the last ones of there kind if they were the ones put aside because they fell out of spec but what ever.  

PXG 0311 7.5* (set to 6.75*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana DF 70TX Tipped 0.75" @ 45.25"

TM Original One Mini Driver 13* (set at 11.5*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana BF 80TX Tipped 1.5" @ 43"
Srixon U45 18* w/ N.S. Pro Modus3 GOST Tour X @ 39.5"
Callaway UW 21* w/ Aldila VS Proto 95X Tipped 1.75" @ 41" / Srixon U45 23* w/ Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour X @ 38.5"

Cobra KING Tour with MIM w/ PX LS 7.0 5-PW / Srixon Z745 5-PW w/ DG TI X7's (PW Tipped 1/4")
Mizuno T22 Denim Copper 50*, 55* & 60* w/ PX LS 7.0 Tipped 3/8" D2, D3 & D5

Putter: Evnroll ER2v

 

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On 4/4/2021 at 1:52 PM, RyanBarathWRX said:

 

Hi Ryan, care to lend me the reaming bit lol

 

I appreciate you sending the video, my shafts are tapered but still could not get them on the shaft far enough even with the hot water trick.  Was attempting to put the blue ones onto my Steelfiber i95X, Srixon Z745 build but could not get them on far enough to be able to push them on the rest of the way with the head and ended up damaging the edge of the ferrule pretty bad as well I could not get them on far enough to bottom out the shaft in the hosel which ended up causing my shaft to be 1/4" over length which threw the swing weight off, as well the tip may have not appreciated the less than optimal engagement.

 

The Blue are the ones I wanted to use for this build and the black/orange/brown are for another build which slipped on fine.  I could only get 1/3rd though the ferrule of the blue, the line above the blue is where I got the black one on without pushing to hard as I did not want to have to cut it off the shaft as well just to prove my point.

 

 

 Blue_Orange_LiteBlue.JPG.f5cf2d5d2fae7caa7b87d532f50e11b9.JPGBlack_Orange_Brown.JPG.dbb9f4b9e3a5383388a56a8c7d0544d3.JPG

 

 

PXG 0311 7.5* (set to 6.75*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana DF 70TX Tipped 0.75" @ 45.25"

TM Original One Mini Driver 13* (set at 11.5*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana BF 80TX Tipped 1.5" @ 43"
Srixon U45 18* w/ N.S. Pro Modus3 GOST Tour X @ 39.5"
Callaway UW 21* w/ Aldila VS Proto 95X Tipped 1.75" @ 41" / Srixon U45 23* w/ Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour X @ 38.5"

Cobra KING Tour with MIM w/ PX LS 7.0 5-PW / Srixon Z745 5-PW w/ DG TI X7's (PW Tipped 1/4")
Mizuno T22 Denim Copper 50*, 55* & 60* w/ PX LS 7.0 Tipped 3/8" D2, D3 & D5

Putter: Evnroll ER2v

 

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16179843020453364678149282781162.jpg

PXG 0311 7.5* (set to 6.75*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana DF 70TX Tipped 0.75" @ 45.25"

TM Original One Mini Driver 13* (set at 11.5*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana BF 80TX Tipped 1.5" @ 43"
Srixon U45 18* w/ N.S. Pro Modus3 GOST Tour X @ 39.5"
Callaway UW 21* w/ Aldila VS Proto 95X Tipped 1.75" @ 41" / Srixon U45 23* w/ Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour X @ 38.5"

Cobra KING Tour with MIM w/ PX LS 7.0 5-PW / Srixon Z745 5-PW w/ DG TI X7's (PW Tipped 1/4")
Mizuno T22 Denim Copper 50*, 55* & 60* w/ PX LS 7.0 Tipped 3/8" D2, D3 & D5

Putter: Evnroll ER2v

 

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As mentioned, .370 reamer works great, makes it so you don't have to force them. The golf works ferrule install tool with the depth indicator is another great addition to your home workshop.  If you put a ferrule on and need to back it off and have access to a shaft puller, don't use heat but put the shaft in and use the puller to push the ferrule off, should come away relatively undamaged if you do it right.

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