Tip weights for graphite iron shafts

[mylesb21]

Anyone have good suggestions for tip weights for graphite iron shafts (ie. Steelfiber i95 taper tip)?  I’m looking for 4+ gram weights that will fit flush to the tip, eliminating the need to trim the tip with traditional lead tip weights. 

[Stuart_G]

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweights-for-graphite-shafts/

or

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweight-for-heavy-graphite-shafts-with-small-mandrel-hole/

 

Hireko has something similar as well I believe.

 

I use them a lot but just a warning.  They tend to get glued into the tip of the shaft and can be a PITA to remove safely if you ever want to pull the shafts and reuse them with a different amount of weight.  Also for the longer ones, you need to be careful to get a good fit or you can get some rattles to occur.

[mylesb21]

Thanks Stuart. 

[SwingBlues]

On 4/13/2021 at 10:32 AM, Stuart_G said:

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweights-for-graphite-shafts/

or

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweight-for-heavy-graphite-shafts-with-small-mandrel-hole/

 

Hireko has something similar as well I believe.

 

I use them a lot but just a warning.  They tend to get glued into the tip of the shaft and can be a PITA to remove safely if you ever want to pull the shafts and reuse them with a different amount of weight.  Also for the longer ones, you need to be careful to get a good fit or you can get some rattles to occur.

 

Thanks for the links. I too had to get some heavier weights to Billy Bob's 8gm is perfect for my TGIs.

 

Now, have you tried using silicon seal, putting it on the weight and inserting it inside the shaft to stop the rattling? Billy Bobs is recommending that but I am just wondering if there is any issues/side effects...

Edited July 13, 2021 by SwingBlues

[Valtiel]

I have had good luck with the Rubber Tungsten weights from Golfworks for this purpose. They can be cut/shaped easily to achieve precise weights and you just need to be mindful of the head of the weight and how it can impact insertion depth. The head can be easily shaped, or you can tip an extra 1/4" to allow for it. 

[SwingBlues]

3 minutes ago, Valtiel said:

I have had good luck with the Rubber Tungsten weights from Golfworks for this purpose. They can be cut/shaped easily to achieve precise weights and you just need to be mindful of the head of the weight and how it can impact insertion depth. The head can be easily shaped, or you can tip an extra 1/4" to allow for it. 

 

I got some brass graphite 2gm and 4 gm weights from Golfworks. The 2 gm has a flat head while the 4gm has a 1/4" head - that one you have to tip. What I liked about the Billy Bob's 8 gm weight is that it appears to have a shallow flat head so it doesn't look like any shaft tipping is needed. While I had plans to use the 2gm, it is not enough so I have to use Billy Bob's and trim the weight to get my TGIs to D2 swing weight

[Stuart_G]

13 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

Now, have you tried using silicon seal, putting it on the weight and inserting it inside the shaft to stop the rattling? Billy Bobs is recommending that but I am just wondering if there is any issues/side effects...

 

No, haven't tried that yet.  Mostly I've just used masking tape to get a good fit and pad the weights.   Just speculation, but with the silicon seal, the only concern might be blocking up the air channels and getting an air lock when epoxying the head.

 

13 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

 

I got some brass graphite 2gm and 4 gm weights from Golfworks. The 2 gm has a flat head while the 4gm has a 1/4" head - that one you have to tip.

 

(IMO) For 2gm and 4gm weights, nothing beats the lead tip weights for graphite from golfworks.  It's only when I need more than 4gm I resort to the brass.

 

[SwingBlues]

8 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

No, haven't tried that yet.  Mostly I've just used masking tape to get a good fit and pad the weights.   Just speculation, but with the silicon seal, the only concern might be blocking up the air channels and getting an air lock when epoxying the head.

 

 

(IMO) For 2gm and 4gm weights, nothing beats the lead tip weights for graphite from golfworks.  It's only when I need more than 4gm I resort to the brass.

 

 

Ah... that's a great idea 👍

 

I have not received my Billy Bob's 8 gm weight yet but does it have a hole through the middle of the shaft (like the 2gm and 4gm golfworks brass weight) or the does this one have a simple hole drilled out in the head only? Yeah, I can see the point if the head has a hole for the air to escape...but I might try a straight paper clip to keep the hole open while the silicon dries. I just did a inch of silicon to see how it sets and get the approx weight as I need to factor that in.

 

I don't think there is a difference in lead or brass, 2gm is 2gm in either metal. My main concern is the inner diameter & preference not to cut the tip for the weight. As well, these style of weight (what I call "pin" or "stubby") when you pull the shaft later, the stubby ones tends to get stuck inside the head & that is NOT FUN to try and extract with it's short , fat body it. At least with the "pin" style weight, you have a better chance to use a thin long nose plier to pull the weight out when the head is hot...

 

Edited July 14, 2021 by SwingBlues

[Stuart_G]

2 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

 

Ah... that's a great idea 👍

 

I have not received my Billy Bob's 8 gm weight yet but does it have a hole through the middle of the shaft (like the 2gm and 4gm golfworks brass weight) or the does this one have a simple hole drilled out in the head only? Yeah, I can see the point if the head has a hole for the air to escape...but I might try a straight paper clip to keep the hole open while the silicon dries. I just did a inch of silicon to see how it sets and get the approx weight as I need to factor that in.

 

They might have changed, but the 10 gm brass weights I have a supply of from billy bob's (I bought several years ago) doesn't have a hole in the middle, it has a channel cut up the side of the stem.   That's my concern with the silicon.  If one is careful, a hole up the middle wouldn't be as problematic.

 

2 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

I don't think there is a difference in lead or brass,

 

The big difference is if you ever want to pull the shaft and reuse it with a different amount of tip weight.  If the brass gets epoxied into the tip of the shaft, it's a major PITA to try and get out regardless of it's design.  If the epoxy is hot enough at the ID of the shaft to release the brass weight, you've used way to much heat and the potential to damage the shaft is very high (puller or not).   Lead can just be drilled out pretty easily.

 

 

 

[SwingBlues]

1 hour ago, Stuart_G said:

 

They might have changed, but the 10 gm brass weights I have a supply of from billy bob's (I bought several years ago) doesn't have a hole in the middle, it has a channel cut up the side of the stem.   That's my concern with the silicon.  If one is careful, a hole up the middle wouldn't be as problematic.

 

 

The big difference is if you ever want to pull the shaft and reuse it with a different amount of tip weight.  If the brass gets epoxied into the tip of the shaft, it's a major PITA to try and get out regardless of it's design.  If the epoxy is hot enough at the ID of the shaft to release the brass weight, you've used way to much heat and the potential to damage the shaft is very high (puller or not).   Lead can just be drilled out pretty easily.

 

 

 

 

Good point with the drilling for lead - I've not head to do this YET. However, I came close while pulling out the 5 iron Modus 120, it had a 3gm lead stuck but with a bit of heat and using a flat nose screwdriver, I was able to loosen & pry it out.

 

Another method which I have not tried is to heat a steel rod to red hot and put it on the end stuck weight to transfer the heat.

 

Anyway, my focus is getting this build right & securing the weight proper, masking tape or silicon...

[NRJyzr]

Inserting my usual comment about the alternative of lead tape.  🙂

[Stuart_G]

11 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

Another method which I have not tried is to heat a steel rod to red hot and put it on the end stuck weight to transfer the heat.

 

I would think a higher powered soldering iron would be much better with that approach.

 

The other option I've used is the heat protection gel (from golfworks.com) applied to the shaft tip - with only the brass weight exposed - and then use a torch to supply the heat.

 

Edited July 15, 2021 by Stuart_G

[dmbrill719]

10 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

Inserting my usual comment about the alternative of lead tape.  🙂

I've given up on tip weights for graphite.  Too much trouble with some weights changing insertion depth, some almost unremoveable, etc. Lead tape is just too easy. 

[NRJyzr]

46 minutes ago, dmbrill719 said:

I've given up on tip weights for graphite.  Too much trouble with some weights changing insertion depth, some almost unremoveable, etc. Lead tape is just too easy. 

 

Lead tape also has the benefit of helping to avoid the displeasure of the golf gods.

 

This year, I've adjusted my swing weight a bit lower in response to age, back issues, the LOFT in my swing, etc.  Doing so would be a bit more problematic with tip weights installed, or hot melt in the case of driver/fairway wood/hybrid.  With lead tape, simple adjustment.

 

[Ger21]

On 4/13/2021 at 12:41 PM, mylesb21 said:

 I’m looking for 4+ gram weights that will fit flush to the tip,

 

I used the 6 gram lead weights from Golfworks. I found that if I sanded the large end down to 1/16" length, they were right around 4 grams. And you only lose 1/16" insertion depth. Where I needed less weight, I trimmed the end that fit into the shaft.

 

Worked out well for me.

[SwingBlues]

@Stuart_G Just a follow up, when you pad the "pin" tip weight with the masking tape, what technique do you use? Do you simply wrap the masking tape and how do you leave a space for the air pocket?

 

Also, I assume you have done this many times in the past, any issues with water getting inside the shaft and destroying/effecting the masking tape pad?

[Stuart_G]

2 minutes ago, SwingBlues said:

@Stuart_G Just a follow up, when you pad the "pin" tip weight with the masking tape, what technique do you use? Do you simply wrap the masking tape and how do you leave a space for the air pocket?

 

The weights I have use a channel cut into the side of the stem for the air to pass.  The tape covers up the channel but  it doesn't block it at all, it just acts like a 'roof' covering the channel.   So yes, I simply wrap the masking tape until I get a good snug fit.  Just leave a little space between the flange and the start of the masking tape and that's plenty for the air to get through.

 

 

2 minutes ago, SwingBlues said:

Also, I assume you have done this many times in the past, any issues with water getting inside the shaft and destroying/effecting the masking tape pad?

 

Well, I dont' throw my clubs into water hazard 🙂  and they are grip down in the bag so not really worried about water getting inside the shaft.   What little might start into the grip hole will be stopped by the grip tape covering the butt.

 

[SwingBlues]

@Stuart_G so I went with your method to wrap the masking tape and leaving some space near the tip. There was not much of the channel cut so if I went with the silicon there is a risk of blockage and there is no way to put a paper clip to clear it. Your method had zero issues with air bubbles. Thanks 👍

 

However, while this is not related to the tip weight, I am kinda surprised I needed to use all 8 gms of the Billy Bobs pin weights...I think its all because of the 10 gm of grip build up tape. Swing weight was D2. Shafts were TGI 95/100. I've not used these longer pin weights, I hope it does not effect shaft tip flex,

Edited July 16, 2021 by SwingBlues

[Stuart_G]

44 minutes ago, SwingBlues said:

@Stuart_G so I went with your method to wrap the masking tape and leaving some space near the tip. There was not much of the channel cut so if I went with the silicon there is a risk of blockage and there is no way to put a paper clip to clear it. Your method had zero issues with air bubbles. Thanks 👍

 

Glad to here it worked for you.

 

44 minutes ago, SwingBlues said:

However, while this is not related to the tip weight, I am kinda surprised I needed to use all 8 gms of the Billy Bobs pin weights...I think its all because of the 10 gm of grip build up tape. Swing weight was D2. Shafts were TGI 95/100. I've not used these longer pin weights, I hope it does not effect shaft tip flex,

 

When you were fit for swing weight, what was the weight of the grip on the club you used?

 

No, it won't have any effect tip flex.  It would need to be a LOT longer for that.

[SwingBlues]

13 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

When you were fit for swing weight, what was the weight of the grip on the club you used?

 

No, it won't have any effect tip flex.  It would need to be a LOT longer for that.

 

Cool.

 

It's a process. The actual spec of grip layering is 3 layer back half and 5 layer front half, less taper. I started this on my driver and fairways. Then I progressed it to the wedges (gap and SW) and now it's finally made it to my irons. Pure grip weight is 49gm, total weight of the grip and tape is 59.4 gm. As a contrast, the comparable mid size grip is 60 gm but it does not offer the non-taper lower half that I like. Now, my expectation was that the KBS TGI was suppose to have a lower balance point more like an iron shaft (eventhough it is a graphite iron) but may be I was expecting too much if 8 gm is needed for D2.

 

Oh, I had graphite irons in D0 and my swing could never adapt to it. One of the reasons I went back to my P790s with the Dynamic Gold 105s, thats built to D2. Far more feel.

[Stuart_G]

14 hours ago, SwingBlues said:

 

Cool.

 

It's a process. The actual spec of grip layering is 3 layer back half and 5 layer front half, less taper. I started this on my driver and fairways. Then I progressed it to the wedges (gap and SW) and now it's finally made it to my irons. Pure grip weight is 49gm, total weight of the grip and tape is 59.4 gm. As a contrast, the comparable mid size grip is 60 gm but it does not offer the non-taper lower half that I like. Now, my expectation was that the KBS TGI was suppose to have a lower balance point more like an iron shaft (eventhough it is a graphite iron) but may be I was expecting too much if 8 gm is needed for D2.

 

Oh, I had graphite irons in D0 and my swing could never adapt to it. One of the reasons I went back to my P790s with the Dynamic Gold 105s, thats built to D2. Far more feel.

 

Don't assume the same swing weight value is going to be a good fit in the context of a grip weight change.   The swing weight scale is not designed or ever intended to handle grip weight changes.   So do what you need to do with the grip to get the right size.  Then, instead of using the swing weight scale to adjust the head weight, go to the range with some lead tape.  Adjust by feel and ball flight results.    Then you can go back and put it on the swing weight scale and use that value for the rest of your clubs.

 

Most people actually find they don't need to change the head weight after a grip weight change - but there are certainly exceptions to that.  Only testing will tell.

 

Simply put, you need to refit yourself for head weight after you mess around with grip weight or shaft weight or many other types of changes.  Never assume the same swing value from a previous configuration will be a good target.

 

Edited July 17, 2021 by Stuart_G

[SwingBlues]

6 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Don't assume the same swing weight value is going to be a good fit in the context of a grip weight change.   The swing weight scale is not designed or ever intended to handle grip weight changes.   So do what you need to do with the grip to get the right size.  Then, instead of using the swing weight scale to adjust the head weight, go to the range with some lead tape.  Adjust by feel and ball flight results.    Then you can go back and put it on the swing weight scale and use that value for the rest of your clubs.

 

Most people actually find they don't need to change the head weight after a grip weight change - but there are certainly exceptions to that.  Only testing will tell.

 

Simply put, you need to refit yourself for head weight after you mess around with grip weight or shaft weight or many other types of changes.  Never assume the same swing value from a previous configuration will be a good target.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Not going to change anytime soon, got to let my swing settle with the new shafts, literally the whole new set.

 

Then I'll decide if I need to rework. So far at the range the 6, 8, PW is perfect, the shaft is exceeding my expectations. The 4 iron needs more time.