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Driver shaft into 5 wood need help to understand butt or tip trimming etc..


Benoit

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Hi all,

 

I recently bought a Ping G425 which came with a Tensei Raw AV 65S which I swapped for a Graphite Design AD-IZ so I am left with this Tensei around. In a good WRXer I then proceeded to buy a G425 5 wood...and since I couldn't wait and they only had the Ping Alta shaft I went and bought that one. Now I am wondering if I could cut down this the Tensei to a 5 wood lenght if it would work ? I read on the specs of that shaft (https://www.mca-golf.com/sites/default/files/spec-pdf/MCA-MCA_2020-TENSEI-AV-RAW-Orange-v1.1.pdf) that you have to tip trim it by 0.75" to make it the length of a 5 wood but then at the bottom of that page it says "only butt trim them". 

 

The drive plays at 45" 3/4 apparently and the 5 wood at 42" 1/2

 

So my question is the following : 

 

  • Can I just remove the grip cut what ever length I need to cut to make it play at 42"1/2
  • OR do I need to remove the adapter cut 0.75" then remove the grip and cut what else is needed to make it play at 42 1/2? 

 

I don't want to Frankenstein a new shaft and I do not have the stuff to remove the tip so if this is what I would need to do I would just need to bring it in a shop to have them do that; 

 

Benoit, 

 

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Forget the part about "butt cut only"  that's at the bottom of every page in the whole catalog and no shafts on that page are marked or tagged for that particular footnote.

 

If you want to follow the recommendations, use the 3/4" value.  But realize that's only a recommendation.   Did you actually hit the shaft when it was in the driver to get an idea of how it felt or how good a fit it might be?

 

Since the adapter is already installed, I'd suggest cutting down so that it plays 3/4" or even 1" longer than you want for your final playing length, then test the shaft choked up to see how it feels with the 5wd head.   Then based on that feel you can make the decision to go back and tip trim if the feel needs to be tightened up or do a second butt cut if it feels fine the way it is.   No sense going through the process of pulling the adapter if it's not really needed or before you know what you really need to do to the shaft.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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The other element to consider is you are putting a 65 g shaft into a 5W.  Currently have this in my 3W, yet needed an extra 1/2" tipping from what is recommended.  At recommended tipping I struggled with control.  Your results may vary.  Take a measured approach because you can't put the tip back on.

Titleist TSR3 10° Tour AD UB 6s // TS2 15° Tour AD UB 7s // 913F 19º w/ Kai'li 70s

Nike VR ProCombo (2011) 3-P w/ DG S200

Nike VR 54.12º & 58.06º w/ DG S200 

SC 2014 Select Newport 

ProV1 '23
 
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Yes I play a GD AD-DI on my 3Wood that is a 7S to get more control but I really don't feel like spending another 300$ for a shaft when I have one literally brand new so I'll try to make it work. But deep inside I know at the first misshot of this 5wood I'll blame she shaft and swap it with another one ^^. 

 

Any one got a AD-DI 7S for sale ideally with a G425 tip on it (NOT TOO expensive) ? (Starting to put the ad out there that's how much faith I have in this Tensei experiment 🙂

 

 

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Don't get me wrong, I like my Tensei AV 65S in my 3W.  Like you, and it left over from a driver.  Since tipping it a little extra it is money every time - long, penetrating, and straight.  It's not a $300 shaft, yet works really well in this role.

Titleist TSR3 10° Tour AD UB 6s // TS2 15° Tour AD UB 7s // 913F 19º w/ Kai'li 70s

Nike VR ProCombo (2011) 3-P w/ DG S200

Nike VR 54.12º & 58.06º w/ DG S200 

SC 2014 Select Newport 

ProV1 '23
 
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2 hours ago, Benoit said:

Yes I play a GD AD-DI on my 3Wood that is a 7S to get more control but I really don't feel like spending another 300$ for a shaft when I have one literally brand new so I'll try to make it work. But deep inside I know at the first misshot of this 5wood I'll blame she shaft and swap it with another one ^^. 

 

Any one got a AD-DI 7S for sale ideally with a G425 tip on it (NOT TOO expensive) ? (Starting to put the ad out there that's how much faith I have in this Tensei experiment 🙂 )

 

Quite frankly I'd be a bit more concerned about the weight being on the low side than anything about the stiffness.  Getting the shaft weight right is typically much more important to most than having the stiffness profile perfect.   You might want to consider a little extra head weight (increase swing weight) to help compensate for the lower static weight.  It's not the ideal solution but for many it can still work well.

 

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