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First time pulling and installing new iron shafts


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Hey there. I want to put new steel iron shafts in my G710 heads. I’ve never done it before. I’m a general contractor so the work or the tools needed doesn’t intimidate me. I’ve looked at videos, but I have a few questions for you experienced club gurus out there. 
 

1. Do I need a shaft extractor or can I just heat up the head and pull the old shaft without damaging it? 
2. Do shafts come ready to install or do I need to find tipping instructions? (KBS 90 shafts)

3. Do I need to order glass beads or is epoxy sufficient on its own?

4. Do I need to get epoxy from GolfWorks or can I just use a high strength epoxy from Gorilla, JB Weld or something similar to those? 
5. Is it worth it or should I just spend the money to have someone do it? I was just thinking of doing my own so they can get done quickly. 

I appreciate any responses and feel free to add any other issues that I’m probably forgetting. Thanks!!

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From ball bearings, to hosels w/o ferrule, to the latest debacle, Ping has often gone down the road less traveled with their unique design elements.   The older Ping irons have an interferen

No, I didn't read your thread, I was replying to the OP and I don't play Ping irons. I didn't realize Ping required a special epoxy and hosel brush. 

You are mistaken about every Ping is .355 and has an interference fit.  Since G700's & i500's came out, Ping has changed how they designed their hosels.  People won't really understand until they'

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If you are pulling steel shafts from the G710s, you are fine without an extractor. If you ever pull graphite get an extractor and use low heat. Eitherway, strip off the ferrule and keep the heat moving over and around the hosel as evenly as possible.

 

Regarding the other questions, steel shaft tips need to be abraded before installation, and this is very important. Use a dremmel or grinding wheel to rough up the surface. Go light with the pressure and you will see when the shiny chrome removes.

 

Check to see the tip diameter of the shafts you have are a fit for your irons. Parallel tip shafts are .370, taper are .355. Parallel tip shafts usually have tip trimming instructions where tapers are usually designed for a specific iron. Check the KBS website.

 

Regarding epoxy, I would use golf specific epoxy or 3m DP. The glass beads dont hurt and may help center a bit, your call on that. If your irons happen to be a .370 parallel bore and you have .355 shafts, you will need tip shims, which help center the shaft.

 

Last point is ferrules. I dont know if the G710s have them or not but there are plenty of options. Finally, I dont have a chop saw so I usually cut to length with a tube cutter. They can wobble a bit so I start high and use a dremmel to clean it up to the exact length.

 

Have fun, it is easy once you do a few. You can always pull apart an old club and do a test run as well.

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7 minutes ago, 76mpg said:

If you are pulling steel shafts from the G710s, you are fine without an extractor. If you ever pull graphite get an extractor and use low heat. Eitherway, strip off the ferrule and keep the heat moving over and around the hosel as evenly as possible.

 

Regarding the other questions, steel shaft tips need to be abraded before installation, and this is very important. Use a dremmel or grinding wheel to rough up the surface. Go light with the pressure and you will see when the shiny chrome removes.

 

Check to see the tip diameter of the shafts you have are a fit for your irons. Parallel tip shafts are .370, taper are .355. Parallel tip shafts usually have tip trimming instructions where tapers are usually designed for a specific iron. Check the KBS website.

 

Regarding epoxy, I would use golf specific epoxy or 3m DP. The glass beads dont hurt and may help center a bit, your call on that. If your irons happen to be a .370 parallel bore and you have .355 shafts, you will need tip shims, which help center the shaft.

 

Last point is ferrules. I dont know if the G710s have them or not but there are plenty of options. Finally, I dont have a chop saw so I usually cut to length with a tube cutter. They can wobble a bit so I start high and use a dremmel to clean it up to the exact length.

 

Have fun, it is easy once you do a few. You can always pull apart an old club and do a test run as well.

This is great info. Thank you! They’re .355 taper shafts on the G710. They do have ferrules. I was just gonna order them from Golf Works. I was planning on cutting them with a metal cut off wheel on my rotary tool. Thanks again!!

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50 minutes ago, JermWRX said:

This is great info. Thank you! They’re .355 taper shafts on the G710. They do have ferrules. I was just gonna order them from Golf Works. I was planning on cutting them with a metal cut off wheel on my rotary tool. Thanks again!!

Cool...ping used to use a really strong epoxy that could be hard to pull but they may have changed that by now. One other thing above, when trimming to length be sure to compare the length of shaft you pulled to the ones you want to install. This can be helpful because of different hosel bore depths or bottom of bore to ground measurements. The butt cap of the grip ads a bit of length so look at that too. I usually use a sharpie and Mark them, then double check before cutting.

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I just swapped shafts on a set of Glide 3.0 wedges the heads pulled just as easy as any other company. Couple things I ran into. Ping has a specific collared ferrel that is longer then any of the standard collared ferrels that golf works sells. But golf works does sell the ping collared ferrel they are quite expensive compared to standards. Ping hosels also have a some what interference fit at the bottom requiring a pretty firm hit to get them seated all the way down. If you just dry fit the new shafts they will stop 1/8-3/16 short of the bottom. 

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76mpg has great points. Will also add:

Make sure the hosel bores are completely clean of all old epoxy residue before installing the new ones, and that you prep the bores walls down to fresh metal via light sanding of them. Any old leftover epoxy residue or film will compromise the bond. Also pay attention to the set and cure times of the epoxy you select. Some are faster than others, and may start to set before your ready if you mix it in a large batch. Work in small amounts at a time being its new to you. Allow for proper cure time and temp as well after assembly. It may not fully cure if left in area thats too cool. Usually 72ish or higher. Good luck.

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4 minutes ago, mmowen01 said:

I just swapped shafts on a set of Glide 3.0 wedges the heads pulled just as easy as any other company. Couple things I ran into. Ping has a specific collared ferrel that is longer then any of the standard collared ferrels that golf works sells. But golf works does sell the ping collared ferrel they are quite expensive compared to standards. Ping hosels also have a some what interference fit at the bottom requiring a pretty firm hit to get them seated all the way down. If you just dry fit the new shafts they will stop 1/8-3/16 short of the bottom. 

Of course they do🙄 Leave it to Ping to be a little different😂 So when I install the epoxied shaft I should just give it a rap on the ground to make sure it’s seated all the way?

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4 minutes ago, TommyRam said:

76mpg has great points. Will also add:

Make sure the hosel bores are completely clean of all old epoxy residue before installing the new ones, and that you prep the bores walls down to fresh metal via light sanding of them. Any old leftover epoxy residue or film will compromise the bond. Also pay attention to the set and cure times of the epoxy you select. Some are faster than others, and may start to set before your ready if you mix it in a large batch. Work in small amounts at a time being its new to you. Allow for proper cure time and temp as well after assembly. It may not fully cure if left in area thats too cool. Usually 72ish or higher. Good luck.

I was gonna use a wire brush on a drill to clean out the hosel. Should be good enough?

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Yes, get the ones from Golfworks.

Make sure you clean the hosel afterwards. I clean with both acetone and denatured alcohol.

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10 minutes ago, mmowen01 said:

I just swapped shafts on a set of Glide 3.0 wedges the heads pulled just as easy as any other company. Couple things I ran into. Ping has a specific collared ferrel that is longer then any of the standard collared ferrels that golf works sells. But golf works does sell the ping collared ferrel they are quite expensive compared to standards. Ping hosels also have a some what interference fit at the bottom requiring a pretty firm hit to get them seated all the way down. If you just dry fit the new shafts they will stop 1/8-3/16 short of the bottom. 

The ferrules are shown here on GolfWorks. Seems maybe it’s just the Glides that use the oddball ferrule?

F2E46D33-A2D4-478F-9878-FB323BBEF124.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

Yes, get the ones from Golfworks.

Make sure you clean the hosel afterwards. I clean with both acetone and denatured alcohol.

Do you use glass beads? Do you just sprinkle a little in the epoxy?

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No, never have.

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4 minutes ago, JermWRX said:

The ferrules are shown here on GolfWorks. Seems maybe it’s just the Glides that use the oddball ferrule?

F2E46D33-A2D4-478F-9878-FB323BBEF124.jpeg

Possibly, but I have read these are used on other models and golfworks just calls them “Glide” for whatever reason. Wouldn’t hurt to pull one of the long irons and see what they used. 

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3 minutes ago, JermWRX said:

I was gonna use a wire brush on a drill to clean out the hosel. Should be good enough?

As long as you get to shiny clean metal. Wire brush sometimes suffices, but sometimes doesn't quite cut thru enough depending on hardness of club material. There's no such thing as too clean when it comes to the bore.

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48 minutes ago, mmowen01 said:

I just swapped shafts on a set of Glide 3.0 wedges the heads pulled just as easy as any other company. Couple things I ran into. Ping has a specific collared ferrel that is longer then any of the standard collared ferrels that golf works sells. But golf works does sell the ping collared ferrel they are quite expensive compared to standards. Ping hosels also have a some what interference fit at the bottom requiring a pretty firm hit to get them seated all the way down. If you just dry fit the new shafts they will stop 1/8-3/16 short of the bottom. 


You and Tommy bring up a good point about installing I forgot to mention. I usually put an awl or drill bit into the hosel so I can see the depth of the hosel bore before installing so I know if the shaft is fully seated.

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24 minutes ago, 76mpg said:


You and Tommy bring up a good point about installing I forgot to mention. I usually put an awl or drill bit into the hosel so I can see the depth of the hosel bore before installing so I know if the shaft is fully seated.

Great idea

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Study this thread closely before doing anything else.  The newer Ping irons are the most difficult of all modern clubs to reshaft and special precautions need to be followed if you want success.

 

BTW, if you measure the OD of the hosel and ID of the hosel where the collar sits I can compare to some Golfworks G410 ferrules they sell.  These ferrules are only $.50 each and may fit the 710 as well.

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Nessism said:

Study this thread closely before doing anything else.  The newer Ping irons are the most difficult of all modern clubs to reshaft and special precautions need to be followed if you want success.

 

BTW, if you measure the OD of the hosel and ID of the hosel where the collar sits I can compare to some Golfworks G410 ferrules they sell.  These ferrules are only $.50 each and may fit the 710 as well.

 

 

Jesus. That thread scared the heck out of me. Maybe it’s best to bring them to a club maker. Bummer

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I made the mistake of trying to reshaft i500s for my first time lol. Did some brief research before doing anything, figured out they were .355 tapered into .355 tapered hosels and didn't read much further. Imagine my shock when I have everything taken apart and the shafts have tons of play back and forth in the hosel. Eventually came across the threads Nessism linked and it started to make more sense until I called the local shop with hopes they could sell me some collared ferrules, and I also explained the situation; he said I got the wrong shaft and that he did a set of i500s recently with .370 parallels and got a nice snug fit without any messing around. I still don't know if I believe him but I ordered some golfworks shims and billy bobs i500 ferrules since GW ferrules were backordered. Hoping some combination of the two will get me a decent fit. Y'all weren't lying when you said Ping makes things difficult

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20 minutes ago, MisterLister said:

I made the mistake of trying to reshaft i500s for my first time lol. Did some brief research before doing anything, figured out they were .355 tapered into .355 tapered hosels and didn't read much further. Imagine my shock when I have everything taken apart and the shafts have tons of play back and forth in the hosel. Eventually came across the threads Nessism linked and it started to make more sense until I called the local shop with hopes they could sell me some collared ferrules, and I also explained the situation; he said I got the wrong shaft and that he did a set of i500s recently with .370 parallels and got a nice snug fit without any messing around. I still don't know if I believe him but I ordered some golfworks shims and billy bobs i500 ferrules since GW ferrules were backordered. Hoping some combination of the two will get me a decent fit. Y'all weren't lying when you said Ping makes things difficult

I really want to do it as a project because I like to tinker with stuff. But these are my gamers and now I’m thinking I’m better off just giving a pro 100 bucks to do it😂

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27 minutes ago, MisterLister said:

I made the mistake of trying to reshaft i500s for my first time lol. Did some brief research before doing anything, figured out they were .355 tapered into .355 tapered hosels and didn't read much further. Imagine my shock when I have everything taken apart and the shafts have tons of play back and forth in the hosel. Eventually came across the threads Nessism linked and it started to make more sense until I called the local shop with hopes they could sell me some collared ferrules, and I also explained the situation; he said I got the wrong shaft and that he did a set of i500s recently with .370 parallels and got a nice snug fit without any messing around. I still don't know if I believe him but I ordered some golfworks shims and billy bobs i500 ferrules since GW ferrules were backordered. Hoping some combination of the two will get me a decent fit. Y'all weren't lying when you said Ping makes things difficult

Don't go to that club maker for work as he's FOS. Every Ping iron made are .355 hosel and have the tight interference fit other have described in this thread. Either that guy short shafted the set or the heads were reamed to .370. The fit will be a little loose at the top without the collared ferrule but you really need to make sure the shaft gets seated down tight. When everything is lined up and reasonably snug I turn the club upside down(while keeping it all tight and in place) and hit the butt end of the shaft onto something solid driving the shaft all the way into the head. If you get it fully seated it all stays really tight.

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3 minutes ago, Bad9 said:

Don't go to that club maker for work as he's FOS. Every Ping iron made are .355 hosel and have the tight interference fit other have described in this thread. Either that guy short shafted the set or the heads were reamed to .370. The fit will be a little loose at the top without the collared ferrule but you really need to make sure the shaft gets seated down tight. When everything is lined up and reasonably snug I turn the club upside down(while keeping it all tight and in place) and hit the butt end of the shaft onto something solid driving the shaft all the way into the head. If you get it fully seated it all stays really tight.

I think I recall reading somewhere in those two threads that the i500 doesn't actually have an interference fit, and I tried banging the s*** out of it on the ground and it did nothing to snug 'em up. Most of the play feels like it's towards the top of the hosel which really has me hoping that these billybob ferrules will work. I'd rather not shim it but I'm already in too deep to give up lol

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47 minutes ago, Bad9 said:

Don't go to that club maker for work as he's FOS. Every Ping iron made are .355 hosel and have the tight interference fit other have described in this thread. Either that guy short shafted the set or the heads were reamed to .370. The fit will be a little loose at the top without the collared ferrule but you really need to make sure the shaft gets seated down tight. When everything is lined up and reasonably snug I turn the club upside down(while keeping it all tight and in place) and hit the butt end of the shaft onto something solid driving the shaft all the way into the head. If you get it fully seated it all stays really tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1E14SLT85XGPN&dchild=1&keywords=caliper&qid=1619394351&smid=A2KH7CPIYV4PJT&sprefix=calip%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-3

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16 hours ago, Nessism said:

Study this thread closely before doing anything else.  The newer Ping irons are the most difficult of all modern clubs to reshaft and special precautions need to be followed if you want success.

 

BTW, if you measure the OD of the hosel and ID of the hosel where the collar sits I can compare to some Golfworks G410 ferrules they sell.  These ferrules are only $.50 each and may fit the 710 as well.

 

 

Most assuredly they are difficult.  I've been in the business for over 25 years.  Ping G710s gave me headaches.  First off.  The hosel is .540 dia.  Most Ping ferrules on the market are .520.  Shafting depth is another thing.  

On the pic the shafts are, from top to bottom, .370 - .355. - 335.  As you can see the shafting depth really doesn't change from one to the other and it's depth is only 1 and 1/64".  Just the .335 goes in a small bit deeper to a 1 1/32".  

 

One more note.  Even the .370 shafts that fit into the hosel were a sloppy fit.  Drove me nuts.  

 

Have fun though if you care to take on the task.  

IMG_2401.JPG

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3 minutes ago, denkea said:

Most assuredly they are difficult.  I've been in the business for over 25 years.  Ping G710s gave me headaches.  First off.  The hosel is .540 dia.  Most Ping ferrules on the market are .520.  Shafting depth is another thing.  

On the pic the shafts are, from top to bottom, .370 - .355. - 335.  As you can see the shafting depth really doesn't change from one to the other and it's depth is only 1 and 1/64".  Just the .335 goes in a small bit deeper to a 1 1/32".  

 

One more note.  Even the .370 shafts that fit into the hosel were a sloppy fit.  Drove me nuts.  

 

Have fun though if you care to take on the task.  

IMG_2401.JPG

Geez. At this point maybe I’m better off just trading them in for a different set with the shafts that I want already in them. Maybe a set of Callaway or TM. Something easier to work on. Bummer because I’ve always loved Ping. It’s the only iron I’ve ever played

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If you follow the steps and buy the materials outlined in that other thread you will have success.  Buy in costs include 3M adhesive and gun to apply it, a quart of MEK or acetone, and cartridge rolls and mandrel.  These materials will stay with you and assist with future builds so consider it an investment in your future as a clubmaker.

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14 hours ago, Bad9 said:

Don't go to that club maker for work as he's FOS. Every Ping iron made are .355 hosel and have the tight interference fit other have described in this thread. Either that guy short shafted the set or the heads were reamed to .370. The fit will be a little loose at the top without the collared ferrule but you really need to make sure the shaft gets seated down tight. When everything is lined up and reasonably snug I turn the club upside down(while keeping it all tight and in place) and hit the butt end of the shaft onto something solid driving the shaft all the way into the head. If you get it fully seated it all stays really tight.

You are mistaken about every Ping is .355 and has an interference fit.  Since G700's & i500's came out, Ping has changed how they designed their hosels.  People won't really understand until they've taken the new stuff apart and discovered that re-assembly is stupid if you don't have the right parts. God help them if they accidentally drilled out the weight at the bottom or it came out and they lost it.  Changing to .370 shaft will help in the fit, but doesn't fully solve the sloppy fit issue.  Stick with the .355 shafts and get the right ferrules.

 

Worst hosel insertion/assembly design in golf.  Bar none.

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2 hours ago, JermWRX said:

Geez. At this point maybe I’m better off just trading them in for a different set with the shafts that I want already in them. Maybe a set of Callaway or TM. Something easier to work on. Bummer because I’ve always loved Ping. It’s the only iron I’ve ever played

It is too bad that Ping went in this direction.  Not sure if it was to deal with the hollow cavity designs and get the SW right or they just wanted to screw with the aftermarket repair people.

 

One thing for certain, it isn't helping them speed up production at a time when they need speed.

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On 4/25/2021 at 9:27 AM, JermWRX said:

Hey there. I want to put new steel iron shafts in my G710 heads. I’ve never done it before. I’m a general contractor so the work or the tools needed doesn’t intimidate me. I’ve looked at videos, but I have a few questions for you experienced club gurus out there. 
 

1. Do I need a shaft extractor or can I just heat up the head and pull the old shaft without damaging it? 
2. Do shafts come ready to install or do I need to find tipping instructions? (KBS 90 shafts)

3. Do I need to order glass beads or is epoxy sufficient on its own?

4. Do I need to get epoxy from GolfWorks or can I just use a high strength epoxy from Gorilla, JB Weld or something similar to those? 
5. Is it worth it or should I just spend the money to have someone do it? I was just thinking of doing my own so they can get done quickly. 

I appreciate any responses and feel free to add any other issues that I’m probably forgetting. Thanks!!

I'm no expert, but I just re-shafted a set of WS cb's and can offer a couple things from my perspective. The hosel brush from Golfworks is perfect and saves a ton of time, but buy a two or three because the bristles seem to smash down fairly quick. If you don't want to hassle with an epoxy gun, Golfworks sells an epoxy "burst" pouch which doesn't require a gun, you just mix one side of the pouch with the other side and presto. There's enough epoxy to do three sets of clubs if needed and you just toss the pouch after you're sure everything is set up. 

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