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What tip weights to use for graphite iron shafts - specifically Recoils?


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I'm about to start a build with some Mizuno 900 Forged heads and Recoil 95's.  I'm still experimenting with an 8 iron and seeing how much lead tape to get just the right feel, but I anticipate wanting to add between 2-6 grams on some heads to match swing weights.  I've read some reviews (including on golfworks) about people having to bore out the shaft tips a little to get graphite tip weights to fit properly.  Does anyone have any experience with Recoil shafts in particular?  What brand/style of tip weights fit the best, or would you recommend?  Or will I end up having to bore out the tips a little no matter what brand I buy?

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Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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For 2gm and 4gm I'll use the lead tip weights for graphite from golfworks.com   for anything heavier I use these (actually I just get the biggest ones and cut down as needed for less weight)

I just got done building a set of Honma's with Recoil 125's.  This is my third build for my personal clubs using heavy graphite.  I've used recoils and steelfibers in the previous builds.  

I buy brass dowels that are just a touch smaller than the shaft tip ID.  Cut them to the right length for the weight needed, then peen over the end so it doesn't fall down the shaft or add tons of len

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I buy brass dowels that are just a touch smaller than the shaft tip ID.  Cut them to the right length for the weight needed, then peen over the end so it doesn't fall down the shaft or add tons of length,  epoxy that in place.  Works better for me than trying to have a bunch of weights on hand, and the set of brass rods is something like $10 for a 20 pack on amazon.

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25 minutes ago, sm_watts said:

I'm about to start a build with some Mizuno 900 Forged heads and Recoil 95's.  I'm still experimenting with an 8 iron and seeing how much lead tape to get just the right feel, but I anticipate wanting to add between 2-6 grams on some heads to match swing weights.  I've read some reviews (including on golfworks) about people having to bore out the shaft tips a little to get graphite tip weights to fit properly.  Does anyone have any experience with Recoil shafts in particular?  What brand/style of tip weights fit the best, or would you recommend?  Or will I end up having to bore out the tips a little no matter what brand I buy?

 

For 2gm and 4gm I'll use the lead tip weights for graphite from golfworks.com

 

for anything heavier I use these (actually I just get the biggest ones and cut down as needed for less weight).

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweight-for-heavy-graphite-shafts-with-small-mandrel-hole/

or

https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/brass-swingweights-for-graphite-shafts/

 

For these brass weights, the positive is that they take up only a tiny amount of hosel space unlike many other styles of graphite tip weights.

 

The negative is that they are a pain to remove from the shaft if you ever need to pull and change the weight since the epoxy from the head install will result in them being effectively glued into the shaft.  So make sure you know what you got the amount right the first time.

 

 

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Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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46 minutes ago, sm_watts said:

Looks like these come in a pack ranging from 2mm to 8mm thick; what size works the best for graphite shafts?

 

For reference, the diameters of the two billy bob weights are 3.8mm and 4.4mm.

 

But as an FYI - the billy bob's weights have air channels to help prevent an airlock when gluing the head onto the shaft.

Edited by Stuart_G
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58 minutes ago, dhacker56 said:
Ebay listing number. 
201289691432

I've seen these on golfworks too, but I refer back to this question:

1028877030_ScreenShot2021-04-26at1_06_22PM.png.64120e6226c0c0f51e5527ff0f73770c.png

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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4 hours ago, sm_watts said:

I've seen these on golfworks too, but I refer back to this question:

1028877030_ScreenShot2021-04-26at1_06_22PM.png.64120e6226c0c0f51e5527ff0f73770c.png

 

The bigger problem is how much of the hosel space they take up and reduce the insertion depth of the shaft.   That can weaken the glue joint  (and requires tipping of the taper tip shafts to maintain a proper fit between the shaft and bore).  One can get away with it for a deep hosels (need at least 1.25" bore depth - preferably more).

 

Drilling out the ID of the recoils isn't that big of a deal.  I've gone to 11/64" (4.4mm) with no problems in the 95's and 110's when using the larger diameter billy bob's weights.   Just work up in size slowly (not all at once) and make sure the drill bit doesn't get too hot to touch.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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2 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

The bigger problem is how much of the hosel space they take up and reduce the insertion depth of the shaft.   That can weaken the glue joint  (and requires tipping of the taper tip shafts to maintain a proper fit between the shaft and bore).  One can get away with it for a deep hosels (need at least 1.25" bore depth - preferably more).

 

 

That's also one of my fears with the bigger heads on those tungsten weights.  I stopped by Dicks on my way home today and checked my 8 iron: with NO extra weight on it at all, it was about 1/2 point higher than my 7 iron that has who-knows-what tip weight in it with a KBS Tour 90 stiff shaft.  However, the entire club feels a little light to swing, so I'm still going to add a couple of grams and try it out.

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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I just got done building a set of Honma's with Recoil 125's.  This is my third build for my personal clubs using heavy graphite.  I've used recoils and steelfibers in the previous builds.

 

Anyway, in this last build, I abandoned tip weights all together and just went with lead tape.  Unfortunately with graphite its tough to get a tip weight that either doesn't add length (lead) or basically become a fixed piece of the shaft (brass).

 

I've used the lead weights before, but seeing as how only some of the heads needed weights, I wound up having to tip trim the shafts a bit so that they all still played the same.  That then resulted in a set of shafts that weren't consistent in length if I wanted to put them into another set of heads.  I'd rather not have a set of shafts that would only work with 1 specific set of heads.  Just my thoughts from my recent builds.  Good luck.

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20 hours ago, sm_watts said:

I'm about to start a build with some Mizuno 900 Forged heads and Recoil 95's.  I'm still experimenting with an 8 iron and seeing how much lead tape to get just the right feel, but I anticipate wanting to add between 2-6 grams on some heads to match swing weights.  I've read some reviews (including on golfworks) about people having to bore out the shaft tips a little to get graphite tip weights to fit properly.  Does anyone have any experience with Recoil shafts in particular?  What brand/style of tip weights fit the best, or would you recommend?  Or will I end up having to bore out the tips a little no matter what brand I buy?

The Billy Bob 1/8” OD weights that Howard talks about work great. I’ve used them on a number of graphite iron shaft build. Also it is very easy to open up the hole with an 1/8” drill, there is plenty of material and if done properly this will not affect the shaft integratey. 

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I just bought some from Ebay, #271581390472, that I'm using on some Fujikura Pro Irons. From the listing, it looks like the diameter is .148? The hole in the Fujikura's is 5/32", or .15625, so they should work fine. I'll trim them to the final weights I need, which will vary from 2-6g.

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30 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

I just bought some from Ebay, #271581390472, that I'm using on some Fujikura Pro Irons. From the listing, it looks like the diameter is .148? The hole in the Fujikura's is 5/32", or .15625, so they should work fine. I'll trim them to the final weights I need, which will vary from 2-6g.

How tall are the heads on those?  Seems like you would lose a fair amount of insertion depth.

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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I don't have them yet, but going by the picture, I'm guessing about 3/16". I only need one at the full weight, and plan on removing the weight from the end on the rest, so all but one should end up about 1/8" or less.

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Posted (edited)

Here's the next question - What if I wanted to raise the overall static weight of the club a little without changing the swing weight?  I haven't had a chance to actually hit my test 8 iron again (it's nice today, so hopefully this afternoon), but I'm thinking more than changing the swing weight, I might just want to add 6-10 grams of total weight.  Is there a magic relationship between how much weight I add to the head and how much I add to the grip end (planning on putting some lead weight directly on the shaft just below the grip) to keep roughly the same swing weight?  Like, 2 grams to the head for every 4 grams to the grip?

 

Or I could read the VERY FIRST POST on the pinned swingweight related to parts thread: if 2 grams on the head raises 1 point, would 5 grams on the grip cancel it out?

 

OR do I add lead weight 14" from the butt end of the shaft? (courtesy of Howard's old DIY Driver Tune Up thread)

Edited by sm_watts

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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Since a SW scale has its fulcrum at 14" from the butt, adding weight at that point should have zero affect on SW measurement.

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3 hours ago, sm_watts said:

Here's the next question - What if I wanted to raise the overall static weight of the club a little without changing the swing weight?  I haven't had a chance to actually hit my test 8 iron again (it's nice today, so hopefully this afternoon), but I'm thinking more than changing the swing weight, I might just want to add 6-10 grams of total weight.  Is there a magic relationship between how much weight I add to the head and how much I add to the grip end (planning on putting some lead weight directly on the shaft just below the grip) to keep roughly the same swing weight?  Like, 2 grams to the head for every 4 grams to the grip?

 

Or I could read the VERY FIRST POST on the pinned swingweight related to parts thread: if 2 grams on the head raises 1 point, would 5 grams on the grip cancel it out?

 

OR do I add lead weight 14" from the butt end of the shaft? (courtesy of Howard's old DIY Driver Tune Up thread)

 

I don't think there really is any right or wrong location.   Howard's test and the use of the 14" point is really in the context of testing if you should get a heavier shaft.   Not a lot of people would want to use that as a longer term solution.   But the important point is that whatever you do, you shouldn't try to avoid the need to refit the head weight,  i.e. don't assume you should try and keep the same swing weight value you were previously fit to with the original weight shafts.

 

If you're not interested in increasing the static weight with those shafts (not replace those shafts with a heavier shaft), then I'd probably suggest trying butt weights first (or a heavier grip of the correct size).  That will increase the static weight with out noticeably effecting the MOI.  You'd be less likely to need to change the head weight with that route - but you should test to be sure anyways.

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7 hours ago, sm_watts said:

Here's the next question - What if I wanted to raise the overall static weight of the club a little without changing the swing weight?  

Alright, I had a chance to hit my test 8 iron this afternoon with lead tape here, there, and everywhere in all combinations I could think of.  In the end, it was an easy call: I didn't like any lead tape on the club, period.  It all felt weird and bad.  Sooooo, I'm going to go ahead with the build with Recoils, but weigh all the heads first and only add 2-4 grams of weight here or there if needed to keep a 6-8 gram difference between each iron.  I need more epoxy and could always use more grip tape, so I'll just go with the little ones from golfworks in one order.

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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Just to follow up, the weights I bought are actually Golfworks GW01076, and are .29" long. Longer than I was expecting.

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17 hours ago, Ger21 said:

Just to follow up, the weights I bought are actually Golfworks GW01076, and are .29" long. Longer than I was expecting.

Good to know, thanks for helping with this!

Callaway Epic Flash 12.0, 5.5 Evenflow green (until Ping g425 Max 12/Tensei 55 shows up)
Ping g410 4h & 5h hybrids

Malty DBM 6-Gap, TT Elevate 95S

Hogan TK 57* (until Ping Glide 3.0 54 & 58 show up)

TP Mills Sycamore/Spaulding TPM VIII/Mannkrafted MA-99/Bellum Winmore 787 Tie-Fighter

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The Wishon / Diamond Golf  9g tungsten are still the best IMO.  The butt end is only 1/8" deep so does not affect insertion depth much. 

 

The rubber tungsten ones are a good 1/4" deep on the butt, and usually too thick requiring either drilling out the shaft tip, or sanding down the rubber stalk to fit.

Edited by ARL67

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