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Low(er) balance point iron shafts


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Working on a build with some MP 68 heads that have had the chrome removed, so they are obviously a little light.


 I was wondering if any of you shaft experts know of any shafts in the 115-125 gram range that have a lower balance point?

 

I currently play modus 120 stiff in my gamers, and get along well with that profile

 

thanks 

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Lower? Sorry no.   Might gain I SW pt with TT or PX vs KBS or Nippon but that's not going to make much of a difference in your case.   FYI - from what I've read, stripping chrome typically w

Those are b weight heads

Current head weights  4-238 5-242 6-249 7-256 8-265 9-269 P-277 so they’re pretty light. And a bit all over the place. I think they may have been sanded a bit t

I could be wrong but I don't think the platting is more than a gram or 2. It shouldn't make THAT big a difference, but I haven't had heads stripped. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Taylormade GAPR Mid 21* Hybrid

KZG Forged Blade 4, 5, 7-PW

Mizuno MP-68 6 iron

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

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13 hours ago, trav_158 said:

Working on a build with some MP 68 heads that have had the chrome removed, so they are obviously a little light.


 I was wondering if any of you shaft experts know of any shafts in the 115-125 gram range that have a lower balance point?

 

I currently play modus 120 stiff in my gamers, and get along well with that profile

 

thanks 

 

Lower? Sorry no.   Might gain I SW pt with TT or PX vs KBS or Nippon but that's not going to make much of a difference in your case.

 

FYI - from what I've read, stripping chrome typically will only result in the loose of 2-5 gm - depends on how much additional sanding grinding was done after the stripping to clean up the heads.   So I agree with @Poolparty  that those heads were meant for over length builds.

 

8 hours ago, trav_158 said:

Current   std     diff

4-238     247   -9 gm

5-242     254   -12 gm

6-249     261   -12 gm

7-256     268   -12 gm

8-265     275   -10 gm

9-269     282   -13 gm

P-277     289   -12 gm

 

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Thanks for the replies guys.   looks like I'm going to have to do a bit of experimenting here.

 

I might start with +0.5" and see how I like the feel, or try some heavier shafts to get the total weight up where I want it. @Stuart_G I appreciate you breaking down the difference from stock head weights.

 

These are just going to be a Sunday set, likely played as a half set for a bit of a change, so it will be fun to experiment here.

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4 minutes ago, trav_158 said:

@Stuart_G I appreciate you breaking down the difference from stock head weights.

 

Technically speaking "stock" and "standard" aren't necessarily the same thing.   The numbers I provided are the traditional or typical head weights, not OEM or model specific.  They are what is generally needed to get fairly standard swing weights at standard playing lengths (keeping in mind there really is no universal standard).    I have no idea what the designed target weight is for that specific model.

 

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@trav_158 why not just use some tip weights? Seems like that would be the simplest solution.

Cobra RAD Speed 9* : Ventus Blue 6-S

Cobra RAD Speed 3W : Graphite Design AD TP8-S

Srixon ZXU #2 : Recoil 95 F4

Wilson Staff CB 4-PW : Nippon Modus3 120-S

Cleveland Zipcore 50, 54: Nippon Modus2 120/125 S 

Cobra MIM Black 58 : Nippon 125 Wedge

Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

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1 hour ago, jvincent said:

@trav_158 why not just use some tip weights? Seems like that would be the simplest solution.

I do plan to tip weight as required, but 10 grams is the max I have seen on golfworks, where I buy my supplies from. so I was hoping to offset that a bit so i'd have some margin for fine tunings. 

 

1 hour ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Technically speaking "stock" and "standard" aren't necessarily the same thing.   The numbers I provided are the traditional or typical head weights, not OEM or model specific.  They are what is generally needed to get fairly standard swing weights at standard playing lengths (keeping in mind there really is no universal standard).    I have no idea what the designed target weight is for that specific model.

 

understood. I'm not sure on the stock weight either, but I will use the "standard" as my ballpark target and go from there.

 

38 minutes ago, Adam C said:

Those Modus 120s are about as tip heavy as you are going to find. May still need some tip weights depending on grip setup and length.

thanks Adam,  I'm usually in a standard +4 and an extra wrap, so a bit of extra weight in the grip.  I have been swing weighting using the method I've seen mentioned on here by quite a few.  

 

swing weight with no grip to 9pt's heavier than target, so far I have had good results.

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1 hour ago, trav_158 said:

if money weren't an issue I would...

You should be able to come out even. I bought b weight heads by mistake before too. I sold em and bought the right heads. Don't regret it in the slightest. I could have made them work, but I would have had to cover them in lead. People want b weight heads all the time -- that's why they exist

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12 minutes ago, Poolparty said:

You should be able to come out even. I bought b weight heads by mistake before too. I sold em and bought the right heads. Don't regret it in the slightest. I could have made them work, but I would have had to cover them in lead. People want b weight heads all the time -- that's why they exist

fair enough, I may see how I can make out.

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You can get 16g lead tip weights on eBay from sellers out of China.  I recently received a bunch, not that I had an immediate need, but for future use as I like to build in very short increments.

 

You can also get heavy ferrules on eBay from BigFootGolf. 

Their aluminum are 4.5g, stainless steel 13g, copper 15g.

I recently completed a Srixon ZX7 / ZX5 build with Steelfiber i110cw and realy needed these weighted ferrules as the Srixon heads were much lighter than expected, and the i110cw are SW light by about 3 points.  FYI my 5i in that set is 37.0" ungripped.

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Titleist TSi2 11* with Evenflow White 65

Titleist TSi2 18* hybrid with Evenflow White 90
Titleist TS2 23* hybrid with Accra FX300H
Srixon ZX7 / ZX5 5-GW with Steelfiber i110cw
Cleveland RTX Zipcore 58* Full with Steelfiber i110cw
Seemore Platinum M7 Tour with SS Flatso 3.0
Set #2: MP-18 MMC 5-PW with Steelfiber i95cw
Set #3: MP-4 5-PW with Steelfiber i110cw

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Posted (edited)

Being a pretty traditional blade they already have a slightly heel side sweet spot, so going extreme on the tip weights, especially in the longer irons, may result in a noticeable difference, especially if you are a toe miss kind of guy. 

Lightweight heads could be a good opportunity to combine slightly overlength as you mentioned with a 3/8" set gapping. If you did +1/2" on your longest iron for example, 3/8" gaps going down the set would help offset the lighter heads better and may be something that works better for you. I did it several years ago and I will never do another iron set differently. If you have ever felt like your wedges were a little too short, you're taller, or wanted to try a poor man's MOI type of iron setup then I highly recommend giving it a shot, especially since this is just a backup set. 

Edited by Valtiel

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Taylormade SIM Ti V2 15* Kuro Kage XD 80TX || Taylormade SIM Ti Tour Issue 16* HZRDUS T1100 95g
Taylormade M5 19* Tensei Pro White 90TX || Taylormade GAPR Lo 3 19* Kuro Kage 100XTS Hybrid
Taylormade RSI UDI 20* Project X PXi 7.0
Bridgestone J40 DPC 4i-7i 23*- 35* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 39*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, ARL67 said:

You can get 16g lead tip weights on eBay from sellers out of China.  I recently received a bunch, not that I had an immediate need, but for future use as I like to build in very short increments.

 

You can also get heavy ferrules on eBay from BigFootGolf. 

Their aluminum are 4.5g, stainless steel 13g, copper 15g.

I recently completed a Srixon ZX7 / ZX5 build with Steelfiber i110cw and realy needed these weighted ferrules as the Srixon heads were much lighter than expected, and the i110cw are SW light by about 3 points.  FYI my 5i in that set is 37.0" ungripped.

creative ideas, I like it.  Thanks

 

4 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

You'll be fine with just using tip weights.    Give it a try first (maybe one club) before worrying about selling and finding an alternative set.  Raw heads are a pretty niche market.

I think I will dry fit them up and see what is looking like.  I'm sure  I can make something work well enough.  I have also never really tried anything in the lighter SW range, so I may do that here to see how I get along with it.

 

4 hours ago, Valtiel said:

Being a pretty traditional blade they already have a slightly heel side sweet spot, so going extreme on the tip weights, especially in the longer irons, may result in a noticeable difference, especially if you are a toe miss kind of guy. 

Lightweight heads could be a good opportunity to combine slightly overlength as you mentioned with a 3/8" set gapping. If you did +1/2" on your longest iron for example, 3/8" gaps going down the set would help offset the lighter heads better and may be something that works better for you. I did it several years ago and I will never do another iron set differently. If you have ever felt like your wedges were a little too short, you're taller, or wanted to try a poor man's MOI type of iron setup then I highly recommend giving it a shot, especially since this is just a backup set. 

that's not a bad idea, I have read a bunch of the detailed posts by Howard, and have never really given it a good go. this might be the time to try.

Edited by trav_158
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