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Collegefbfan
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So, for a beginner (old beginner), I have learned that I need to replace the original grips on my Ping Eye 2 irons.  Getting it done today.  Now, onto balls.  Do you all think a softer ball is better suited for beginners?  I am trying to go the good, reliable, best for me ball brand/type.  What ya got golf veterans?

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You're a beginner, so the first criteria is cheap--you're not going to keep any given ball all that long lol 😉

 

It used to be that you had to choose between "good" golf balls and "cheap" golf balls, and "both" didn't exist... But with Kirkland, you have a very good and very cheap golf ball in one.

 

Spend 6-12 months with Kirkland until you gain some consistency in your game, and then you might have more information on your game to make a determination on which ball you want to play [or... stay with the Kirkland].

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Ping G25 10.5* w/ Diamana 'ahina 70 x5ct stiff (set -0.5 to 10*)

Toski 4w 16* w/ DG S300

Wishon EQ1-NX 4h, 5i-GW single-length built to 37.5" w/ Nippon Modus3 120 stiff

Sub70 286 52/10, 286 56/12, and JB 60/6 wedges, black, built to 36.75" w/ Nippon Modus3 120 stiff

Odyssey White Hot XG #1 w/ SuperStroke jumbo

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This question has been asked in this folder in one for another about 3 times this week and hundreds of times in the past. My suggestion is to read through this folder to see what previous comments were. Then once you have a cleared picture of the opinions on here and hopefully have narrowed down some more specific question you can come back and ask them. Sometimes reading through a larger number of threads may lead to answers already posted and broaden your knowledge base in general.

Edited by Bad9

Ping G410 Plus 10.5°/Alta CB55 r flex, Maltby KE4 TC 5w/Xcaliber SL FW r flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Xcaliber HY r flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Xcaliber HY r flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Maltby Tricept 54° and 58°/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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Hey this all helps.  Being a beginner, there is a lot I don't know.  I have learned a lot from researching and discussing golf topics with you all.  I knew the grips on my Eye 2 irons felt rather harsh.  This may be stupid, but I am trying to set some things straight that I can control (equipment) before my first lesson.  I would hate to get into the sport and get so dang frustrated with things like tough to play grips, very unforgiving clubs, balls not suited for my swing or hit style.  I feel I am going to already have a time with things I have to learn, not to add to that things I can have assist me like correct equipment choices.  Thanks again.

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7 hours ago, Collegefbfan said:

Hey this all helps.  Being a beginner, there is a lot I don't know.  I have learned a lot from researching and discussing golf topics with you all.  I knew the grips on my Eye 2 irons felt rather harsh.  This may be stupid, but I am trying to set some things straight that I can control (equipment) before my first lesson.  I would hate to get into the sport and get so dang frustrated with things like tough to play grips, very unforgiving clubs, balls not suited for my swing or hit style.  I feel I am going to already have a time with things I have to learn, not to add to that things I can have assist me like correct equipment choices.  Thanks again.


Good plan. I’m anal about my equipment being right: so that the only excuse left for ‘bad Golf’ is the idiot at the other end ! It’s all you can do…..

 

**And using a singular brand / type of ball day-in and day-out to keep that consistent - falls under that umbrella.

 

Good luck.

PING - G20 - 9.5  degree - Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue - X
BRIDGESTONE J33 (15) - Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue - X
MIZUNO Fli-Hi (17+20) - Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue - X
PING  ZING2 Irons (4-PW) - Black Lie angle - JZ Stiff
CALLAWAY MD3 Black (52+58 deg) DG Pro: S300
RIFE Iconic Three Putter -  343g  / 34.5" / 68 Deg 

TAYLORMADE TP5-X Yellow << 2021 Version >>

 

Regards "Shuv" : sevenfourate's WITB LINK (Click right here):

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FIrst I'll make one very specific, random suggestion. Here's an eBay listing for six dozen brand new Srixon Z-Star golf balls with the word "PRACTICE" printed on them. They are perfectly good, perfectly legal balls. The only difference from retail Z-Star balls is the "PRACTICE" stamp. For $93 you'll get 96 balls for less than $1/ball.

 

6 Dozen New Srixon Z Star Yellow Practice Golf Balls Practice 72 Balls 6DZ Zstar | eBay

 

There are always deals like that on large-ish quantities of golf balls on eBay. I just picked that one after a quick search. The key to not overpaying for golf balls is to buy them when a deal shows up for something 6-10 dozen at a time. You can frequently get 72 or 96 or even 120 balls for not much more than the retail price of a couple dozen of the same model. 

 

The rest of my post will be a suggestion that does not require scouring eBay listings...

 

I hate to keep harping on the KIRKLAND thing but honestly, it would almost be worth buying a one-year Costco membership just to stock up on the KIRKLAND Performance Plus golf balls at $25 for two dozen (brand new) balls. If you already have a Costco membership it would be a no-brainer.

 

As an alternative, GolfBallsDirect.com sells used KIRKLAND balls for around $13/dozen in 5A (like new) condition and you would not need a membership. Or you could get 4A condition for about $9/dozen although the 4A will have a few somewhat beat-up balls mixed in and I'm not a big fan of less than 5A condition.

 

On the topic of used balls, do not ever under any circumstances buy a ball advertised as "Refurbished". Those are random balls of generally poor quality that have been re-painted and stamped with a major name brand. Garbage. 

From August 18, 2021 I will be away from GolfWRX for a while.

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9 hours ago, Collegefbfan said:

Hey this all helps.  Being a beginner, there is a lot I don't know.  I have learned a lot from researching and discussing golf topics with you all.  I knew the grips on my Eye 2 irons felt rather harsh.  This may be stupid, but I am trying to set some things straight that I can control (equipment) before my first lesson.  I would hate to get into the sport and get so dang frustrated with things like tough to play grips, very unforgiving clubs, balls not suited for my swing or hit style.  I feel I am going to already have a time with things I have to learn, not to add to that things I can have assist me like correct equipment choices.  Thanks again.

 

Agreed, get better equipment for you. Grips, shafts, clubs, balls, wedges. You can buy used. Cobra has a 3 wood, called Big Tour Fairway. This is a slightly large 3 wood, which would give you plenty of distance, yet easier to hit off the tee. CBX2 wedges are popular. So, many great game improving equipment options. Go to demo days to try out different brands. 

 

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Tanner25 said:

 

 Cobra has a 3 wood, called Big Tour Fairway. This is a slightly large 3 wood, which would give you plenty of distance, yet easier to hit off the tee. CBX2 wedges are popular. So, many great game improving equipment options. Go to demo days to try out different brands. 

 

My kid has that 3 wood. He uses it more than he uses his driver. On balls, my only advice is to pick a ball and stick with it. The real difference between balls becomes readily apparent with the scoring clubs. You have to know how the ball is going to react when it hits the green, playing with balls of all different spin rates and descent angles is no way to hone the short game.

Edited by Esox
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For me, if I had to start all over again.  I would get used 2 piece balls.  Whether it be soft low compression Noodles or rock hard Top-Flites, the choice is yours.  So if you lose one or put one in the water, you won't really get upset as they're cheap compared to tour level balls.  No offense, but a guy of your skill level is not good enough to activate the 3+layer that provides extra short game spin that the tour balls offer (which is only a few hundred more RPMs).

10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, North Butte said:

FIrst I'll make one very specific, random suggestion. Here's an eBay listing for six dozen brand new Srixon Z-Star golf balls with the word "PRACTICE" printed on them. They are perfectly good, perfectly legal balls. The only difference from retail Z-Star balls is the "PRACTICE" stamp. For $93 you'll get 96 balls for less than $1/ball.

 

6 Dozen New Srixon Z Star Yellow Practice Golf Balls Practice 72 Balls 6DZ Zstar | eBay

 

There are always deals like that on large-ish quantities of golf balls on eBay. I just picked that one after a quick search. The key to not overpaying for golf balls is to buy them when a deal shows up for something 6-10 dozen at a time. You can frequently get 72 or 96 or even 120 balls for not much more than the retail price of a couple dozen of the same model. 

 

The rest of my post will be a suggestion that does not require scouring eBay listings...

 

I hate to keep harping on the KIRKLAND thing but honestly, it would almost be worth buying a one-year Costco membership just to stock up on the KIRKLAND Performance Plus golf balls at $25 for two dozen (brand new) balls. If you already have a Costco membership it would be a no-brainer.

 

As an alternative, GolfBallsDirect.com sells used KIRKLAND balls for around $13/dozen in 5A (like new) condition and you would not need a membership. Or you could get 4A condition for about $9/dozen although the 4A will have a few somewhat beat-up balls mixed in and I'm not a big fan of less than 5A condition.

 

On the topic of used balls, do not ever under any circumstances buy a ball advertised as "Refurbished". Those are random balls of generally poor quality that have been re-painted and stamped with a major name brand. Garbage. 

You don't need a Costco membership to buy the ball online but you have to pay shipping.  The balls are definitely a good value.  With all of the reviews about them being sort of at the extreme of the high spin/low launch spectrum, I'd think that they might not be for everyone but should be fine to at least try out to determine if that's a ball that you can stick with for a while while improving your game.

 

Rockbottom has Z-Star practice ammo boxes (3-dozen balls) for $45 but you have to factor shipping in to compare to the eBay offerings.  I wish I could find Z-Star XV practice balls but I haven't seen them available anywhere online. 

Edited by cardigan
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Posted (edited)

What I did was start with 3 different balls (project a, Q star, E6), figure out you can't really tell the difference between them, then play the cheapest one. 🤣

Edited by lefthack
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Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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Posted (edited)

I suggest cheap, two piece balls unless you're a savant and already hitting the ball straight.  The Kirkland balls spin A LOT and will make your slice slice even more.  I suggest Pinnlcle Gold, Noodles and other balls in that class for beginners.  I started with Golds and Titleist X-outs.  

Edited by soregongolfer
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My preference are lamb fries....

Livin' proof that Lefties are not naturally talented.

Driver Callaway Epic Flash 10.5 set to 9.5
3 Wood Epic Flash set to 16 degrees
3-5 Hybrids Epic Flash 18 20 23 degrees
6 hybrid Big Bertha 26 degree 
7-AW Callaway Mavrik Irons 
50 degree GW Vokey SM7
56 degree SW Vokey SM7
Odyssey White Hot V-Line Fang

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On 5/1/2021 at 6:42 PM, soregongolfer said:

I suggest cheap, two piece balls unless you're a savant and already hitting the ball straight.  The Kirkland balls spin A LOT and will make your slice slice even more.  I suggest Pinnlcle Gold, Noodles and other balls in the class for beginners.  I started with Golds and Titleist X-outs.  

So, are.you saying that the Kirkland balls could make a beginner golfer slice the ball worse?  I never knew a ball could slice worse based on the golfer. I thought if a golfer had a bad slice, he would slice badly with any ball.  

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Collegefbfan said:

So, are.you saying that the Kirkland balls could make a beginner golfer slice the ball worse?  I never knew a ball could slice worse based on the golfer. I thought if a golfer had a bad slice, he would slice badly with any ball.  

As a sphere rotates low pressure will develop along the spin axis.  For a golf ball, the low pressure develops at the top of the ball helping it rise against gravity (the ball moves toward low pressure). But if the club strikes the ball such that a tilt angle develops it can also cause the ball to move left (hook for a RH golfer) or right (Slice for a RH golfer).  The amount of hook or slice depends upon both the amount of spin and tilt angle.  Therefore a "spinny" ball has the potential to create more slice or hook assuming the tilt axis is constant (between a urethane or ionomer cover). ...But since a urethane cover creates more spin, one would assume it also creates more tilt axis which is a double whammy if you are just trying to hit it straight. 

 

Regards    

Edited by rwbloom93
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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, rwbloom93 said:

As a sphere rotates low pressure will develop along the spin axis.  For a golf ball, the low pressure develops at the top of the ball helping it rise against gravity (the ball moves toward low pressure). But if the club strikes the ball such that a tilt angle develops it can also cause the ball to move left (hook for a RH golfer) or right (Slice for a RH golfer).  The amount of hook or slice depends upon both the amount of spin and tilt angle.  Therefore a "spinny" ball has the potential to create more slice or hook assuming the tilt axis is constant (between a urethane or ionomer cover). ...But since a urethane cover creates more spin, one would assume it also creates more tilt axis which is a double whammy if you are just trying to hit it straight. 

 

Regards    

If you are slicing the ball you will slice high or low spin. Assuming the same tilt that's true, but a higher spin ball will typically resist the tilt more than a low spin. There is a reason higher spin drivers offer more hook and slice protection than lower spin as the extra backspin will help offset the smaller side spin.

 

The Costco balls are actually great for a beginner assuming you have lower club head speed and leave your face wide open on irons. They will give you more stopping power on all shots, better slice protection on irons as higher backspin actually helps nullify some of the side spin that tilts the axis, and will be much more predictable around the green.

 

I'll say this again but pretty much any pro will tell you to not play anything that is ionomer unless you really have to. For a buck a ball or less it's not worth giving up the superior performance.

Edited by bleda2002
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12 minutes ago, bleda2002 said:

If you are slicing the ball you will slice high or low spin. Assuming the same tilt that's true, but a higher spin ball will typically resist the tilt more than a low spin. There is a reason higher spin drivers offer more hook and slice protection than lower spin as the extra backspin will help offset the smaller side spin.

 

The Costco balls are actually great for a beginner assuming you have lower club head speed and leave your face wide open on irons. They will give you more stopping power on all shots, better slice protection on irons as higher backspin actually helps nullify some of the side spin that tilts the axis, and will be much more predictable around the green.

 

I'll say this again but pretty much any pro will tell you to not play anything that is ionomer unless you really have to. For a buck a ball or less it's not worth giving up the superior performance.

Not sure I agree with much of what you wrote. More backspin should hold up better in say, crossing winds, but I'm not sure about resisting tilt which is caused by the clubface.

 

I play ionomer balls frequently and produce my best scores with them.  I posted a lot about it in another thread and won't rehash but just be advised a multi-layer, urethane covered ball, is not a better piece of equipment for all handicap golfers.

 

Regards 

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Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, rwbloom93 said:

Not sure I agree with much of what you wrote. More backspin should hold up better in say, crossing winds, but I'm not sure about resisting tilt which is caused by the clubface.

 

I play ionomer balls frequently and produce my best scores with them.  I posted a lot about it in another thread and won't rehash but just be advised a multi-layer, urethane covered ball, is not a better piece of equipment for all handicap golfers.

 

Regards 

 

I'm sure the ionomer ball is working for you I have used them from time to time too and they work just fine if I plan for low spin. But there is literally nothing better about an ionomer ball other than it's price point and durability.

 

It has no qualities other than those 2 that you can not find done better in a urethane ball. The biggest differentiator is approach and greenside spin that will allow a greater variety of shots to be played. Beyond that there is a much wider set of ball profiles in urethane that will allow you to find a ball that caters to your needs from low spin to high spin, soft to extra-firm, low launch to high launch.

 

Can you play good golf with surlyn? Sure. You could also play great golf with old blades and worn wedges but you'd be starting at a disadvantage.

 

I totally get that a new guy is so inconsistent and loses so many balls that they may not see as big of a jump, but if you have the option to buy urethane for ionomer prices why wouldn't you give yourself the best scoring chance?

Edited by bleda2002
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5 hours ago, Collegefbfan said:

So, are.you saying that the Kirkland balls could make a beginner golfer slice the ball worse?  I never knew a ball could slice worse based on the golfer. I thought if a golfer had a bad slice, he would slice badly with any ball.  

No golf ball will cure a slice. 

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From August 18, 2021 I will be away from GolfWRX for a while.

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14 hours ago, bleda2002 said:

 But there is literally nothing better about an ionomer ball other than it's price point and durability.

 

I can't tell the difference in my game but care less when a $.50 ball goes missing. Until I see a reason to spend more, you can bet I won't.

 

So it's literally better in every aspect at that point. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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I've tried a dozen different balls and keep coming back to the Maxfli Tour.  It's not the cheapest ball ( 2 dozen for $ 60 ) but it does perform comparable to those that cost $ 50 a dozen, and that includes the ProV1, AVX, Chromsoft, etc.  It has a not feel, not too hard and not too soft, and the spin is very good.  It's also as long as any ball that I've ever tried.  Played a head-to-head with the Maxfli Tour and a number of premium balls and it always seems to perform better for me.  

 

Hits the sweet spot in a lot of different areas without breaking the bank.  I've only used the 2019 version but I have a couple dozen of the 2021 version on hand and will be testing these in the next week.  The only downside right now is it seems that you have to order the 2021 version online from Dicks because they don't seem to stock it at all their stores and Golf Galaxy doesn't have it in stock yet either.  Probably trying to see their 2019 version inventory before putting the 2021 on the shelves. 

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17 hours ago, bleda2002 said:

 

I'm sure the ionomer ball is working for you I have used them from time to time too and they work just fine if I plan for low spin. But there is literally nothing better about an ionomer ball other than it's price point and durability.

 

It has no qualities other than those 2 that you can not find done better in a urethane ball. The biggest differentiator is approach and greenside spin that will allow a greater variety of shots to be played. Beyond that there is a much wider set of ball profiles in urethane that will allow you to find a ball that caters to your needs from low spin to high spin, soft to extra-firm, low launch to high launch.

 

Can you play good golf with surlyn? Sure. You could also play great golf with old blades and worn wedges but you'd be starting at a disadvantage.

 

I totally get that a new guy is so inconsistent and loses so many balls that they may not see as big of a jump, but if you have the option to buy urethane for ionomer prices why wouldn't you give yourself the best scoring chance?

I find the mid and lower compression balls (ionomer and urethane) give me better distance off the Driver and irons (especially the irons) than the firmer urethane balls.  I find also that those balls are more forgiving on slight mishits (aka I get better carry).

 

For slower shaggy courses I use the TruFeel, Tour Soft, Soft Feel or equivalent.  For firmer faster greens I use the RX, RXS or QStar, TM Tour Response, or equivalent. 

 

I did play the TP5x (the dimple depth looked similar to the AVX) this weekend and I hit it well, I was surprised because I've read some complaints by TM diehards that they are unhappy with the ball.

 

Regards  

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OK, my $.02

I've been playing the Kirkland Ksig 3.2 for the last 4 rounds.  I'm really liking the ball.  I have not noticed any adverse spin effects, I'm hitting the ball just as long as I would with the PV-1, TP5, etc.  That's my current gamer at $1.00/ball

HOWEVER, I have used MANY 2 pc surlyn/ionomer balls and have shot great rounds with them.  The happy place for me is the 3 pc Surlyn/Ionomer balls with the Vice Tour my favorite.  Great distance, lower spin than the urethane balls and nice 3 pc performance.  I would absolutely be buying the Vice Tour if the Kirkland were crap.  The new TP Gamer 3pc is a decent ball if you can get on sale.  You can get them for 2/$40 all day long.  I used to love to play the TF D2 Feels.  Haven't tried the new Hammer Control,  it all comes down to your game.  Maybe once a round I'll back up a ball on an approach but rarely.  What it comes down to is your game, how you strike the ball and what you're looking for in performance.  If a straighter ball flight, distance and some durability is what you're looking for then a 2 pc or 3pc surlyn/ionomer would be ideal.  If you're a control spin player who likes to stop a ball on the green, pull it back and control direction with spin then the expensive PV-1, TP5 style balls would be the choice.

All the ball manufacturers basically design their balls to be effective with the widest ranging swing speeds.  The rest is marketing.

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