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Anti left driver shaft


AP76

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29 minutes ago, kingnthenorthjb said:

I'm looking for a heavier shaft to fix the left miss.

Any of the shafts I listed in the 70 to 80 gram range will pretty much help lessen the left.  Notice how I said lessen.  Nothing is gonna fix the left miss if the swing is completely off on any given day.  I'm sure you know this.   

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7 minutes ago, phizzy30 said:

Any of the shafts I listed in the 70 to 80 gram range will pretty much help lessen the left.  Notice how I said lessen.  Nothing is gonna fix the left miss if the swing is completely off on any given day.  I'm sure you know this.   

Yup, just started lessons and relying mostly on that to get me straightened out. I know my current shaft is too light and need to get up to an X flex.

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9 hours ago, AP76 said:

I have a Diamana w series 60x which is 67g but not as stable as the ahina. Heard good things about the kuro kage you mentioned. Had a BB a few years ago and rated it very highly but stupidity sold it in the driver I was moving on. 

 

The W series was a departure from the typical whiteboard profile.   The El profile of the W series looks more like an overly-stiff version of a blueboard:  stiff butt, mid-shaft hinge, and a stiff(er) tip.  The white profiles (other than the W series) have a pattern of a soft(er) butt and a mid-shaft bump in stiffness that gives it a more linear feel (rather than a hinge).

 

I own the 'ahina, W-series and DF, all in 60X.  Never got along with the W, but can easily game either of the other 2.  Though the 'ahina seems more stable than the DF.

 

I demo'd a Smoke Green and liked it.  Have not gamed the Ventus Black, Kuro Kage, D+ Limited or HZRDUS T1100 - my comments were based on my continual research looking for stable, anti left shafts.  The D+ is probably worth checking out - a number of pros are gaming this (not the DF), probably because it is a more stable/linear shaft.

 

Also gamed an Aldila Tour Green for a while with good results.  And I own a Rogue Silver (very similar profile to the Tour Green).  Both of these are worth checking out in the right weight/flex.

 

I picked up a Graphite Design GP in 6X and like what I've seen so far.  May also try out the M9003. 

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9 hours ago, Tasals said:

 

yeah, it plays almost 80g in that set up, 79g i think is stock. I dropped a 10.5 degree M1 head down to 9, and my shot shape is a small draw to straight, miss can still be a hook but its calmed down significantly, I now have a predominant slight straight-block miss  which is completely playable and its an easy miss that im completely fine with.

 

This season I was planning on getting fit for potentially a Rad Speed with a Ventus Black. Both are supposed to be anti-left with the rad speed being heavily fade biased and good from the toe, which my strikes are pretty middle to high toe. Was interested in the 6X there as I can find myself with the heavier shaft sometimes getting into issues if my swing is off. But between work, golf and fitters being closed I havent/(cant) gotten around to it. With the Ventus being slightly more tip and butt stiff than the Pro 2.0, but having a slight softer mid section its kept me from ordering a set up online. If I can find a deal on a Pro 2.0 TS 6X id probably give that a try. Its a tough balance im trying to achieve, I would rate myself a very good driver of the golf ball its a major strength in my game (putting is beyond atrocious). Im tempted to maybe pick up a Tensei Pro White 7x as well, it was one of the shafts I was fit into at my last big fitting a few years ago but it was the first year it was on the market and nearly 550 dollars at the time, the hazardus black was significantly cheaper and I only gave up 5 yards of carry, so I chose to save the money.

Anything I have available to hand is in the 6x category.

Fuji Evo v 661 x 

Diamana w series 60x

Attas international 6x

Motore speeder VC 6.1 x 

I will definitely look into the suggestions you've mentioned. Good luck with the Rad speed fitting 👍🏼

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, hagimihale said:

 

The W series was a departure from the typical whiteboard profile.   The El profile of the W series looks more like an overly-stiff version of a blueboard:  stiff butt, mid-shaft hinge, and a stiff(er) tip.  The white profiles (other than the W series) have a pattern of a soft(er) butt and a mid-shaft bump in stiffness that gives it a more linear feel (rather than a hinge).

 

I own the 'ahina, W-series and DF, all in 60X.  Never got along with the W, but can easily game either of the other 2.  Though the 'ahina seems more stable than the DF.

 

I demo'd a Smoke Green and liked it.  Have not gamed the Ventus Black, Kuro Kage, D+ Limited or HZRDUS T1100 - my comments were based on my continual research looking for stable, anti left shafts.  The D+ is probably worth checking out - a number of pros are gaming this (not the DF), probably because it is a more stable/linear shaft.

 

Also gamed an Aldila Tour Green for a while with good results.  And I own a Rogue Silver (very similar profile to the Tour Green).  Both of these are worth checking out in the right weight/flex.

 

I picked up a Graphite Design GP in 6X and like what I've seen so far.  May also try out the M9003. 

Thanks for the detailed reply, will look into your suggestions. 

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6 hours ago, hagimihale said:

 

The W series was a departure from the typical whiteboard profile.   The El profile of the W series looks more like an overly-stiff version of a blueboard:  stiff butt, mid-shaft hinge, and a stiff(er) tip.  The white profiles (other than the W series) have a pattern of a soft(er) butt and a mid-shaft bump in stiffness that gives it a more linear feel (rather than a hinge).

 

I own the 'ahina, W-series and DF, all in 60X.  Never got along with the W, but can easily game either of the other 2.  Though the 'ahina seems more stable than the DF.

 

I demo'd a Smoke Green and liked it.  Have not gamed the Ventus Black, Kuro Kage, D+ Limited or HZRDUS T1100 - my comments were based on my continual research looking for stable, anti left shafts.  The D+ is probably worth checking out - a number of pros are gaming this (not the DF), probably because it is a more stable/linear shaft.

 

Also gamed an Aldila Tour Green for a while with good results.  And I own a Rogue Silver (very similar profile to the Tour Green).  Both of these are worth checking out in the right weight/flex.

 

I picked up a Graphite Design GP in 6X and like what I've seen so far.  May also try out the M9003. 

How about a whiteboard d+ 80x? I've seen one at a reasonable price which would suit me as an experiment. Don't want to spend loads on a shaft only to find out it doesn't work for me?

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1 hour ago, blues72 said:

One thing you may want to consider before spending a lot on a shaft is an oversized grip.  An ultra lite jumbomax grip would definitely quiet your release and the weights are similar to traditional grips.  Check out the TXG video for testing results.  Good luck!

Thanks for the suggestion, will check out what the TXG guys have to say👍🏼

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Anti-Left:

  • Grip - Use a larger grip and hold it more neutral and more in your palms.
  • Club head - Use a low spin (LST) model with weight in the toe and lower the loft (opens the face). You may need to start with higher loft than you are used to.
  • Shaft - Find the "right" shaft which doesn't necessarily mean heavier and stiffer. For myself a harder to load shaft gives me more of a hit reflex with my hands and I tend to turn it over even more. TEST as many as you can and focus on feel and ball flight instead of distance. 
  • Swing - A left miss is a swing issue more than a club issue and the best thing you can do is identify and correct that issue. 

 

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3 hours ago, AP76 said:

How about a whiteboard d+ 80x? I've seen one at a reasonable price which would suit me as an experiment. Don't want to spend loads on a shaft only to find out it doesn't work for me?

 

D+ is a stable shaft, though the D+ Limited is supposed to be more so.  I have not gamed either, but supposedly they are both more linear (and anti-left) than the DF.

 

I can confirm what both @blues72 and @mgoblue83 noted about oversized grips.  I have Golfpride MCC+4 grips on all of my woods and hybrids.  The +4 have less taper in the lower hand (as if you put in extra layers of tape) - in theory this makes it less likely to draw the ball.  I did notice that it was easier to hit a cut, than when I had regular grips.

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22 hours ago, TiScape said:

This is a pretty cool chart from GD. Help you pick the bend profile that is best suited to a certain shot shape/trajectory. Xander plays the BB. An anti-left shaft according to their chart. 

84727B4B-8108-4F63-AB46-CBDCC840699C.jpeg

 

Do you know if there is an updated chart that includes the new HD shaft?  If not, any idea where it would sit on this chart?

There's definitely something more important that I should be doing.
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Folks, just want to point something out regarding the Graphite Design chart above.  The mapping is really in reference to other Graphite Design shafts, its not to be used as an exact mapping in comparison to all shafts.  And your swing dynamics may give you results that don't agree with the graph.

 

Examples: I own DI, MT and QT shafts, all in 6X.  All are listed as fade-biased on the chart.  I get low draws from the DI and MT.  Mid-launch draws from the QT.

 

However, I also own TP and GP in 6X and can play a controlled cut with either of them.

 

For reference, my SS is about 107, with a mid-to-late release.  My default shot shape is a draw, and my 6i carries 180.   I get along best with Diamana "white" profiles, and typically game a Diamana 'ahina in 6X.

 

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Titleist TSR3 19*:  LA Golf Ozik Black Tie 105S

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Grindworks PR-202 6-PW: Nippon Modus3 120X

Edel SMS 48*V / 60*T:  Nippon Modus 125 Wedge 

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6 hours ago, blues72 said:

One thing you may want to consider before spending a lot on a shaft is an oversized grip.  An ultra lite jumbomax grip would definitely quiet your release and the weights are similar to traditional grips.  Check out the TXG video for testing results.  Good luck!

I wear cadet medium sized gloves to give you a good idea of my hand size.  I have overactive hands wrists on the downswing.  Would a jumbo max grip help me?  I've always hesitant about trying anything larger than a standard grip with only one to 2 wraps of tape. 

Edited by phizzy30

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53 minutes ago, hagimihale said:

Folks, just want to point something out regarding the Graphite Design chart above.  The mapping is really in reference to other Graphite Design shafts, its not to be used as an exact mapping in comparison to all shafts.  And your swing dynamics may give you results that don't agree with the graph.

 

Examples: I own DI, MT and QT shafts, all in 6X.  All are listed as fade-biased on the chart.  I get low draws from the DI and MT.  Mid-launch draws from the QT.

 

However, I also own TP and GP in 6X and can play a controlled cut with either of them.

 

For reference, my SS is about 107, with a mid-to-late release.  My default shot shape is a draw, and my 6i carries 180.   I get along best with Diamana "white" profiles, and typically game a Diamana 'ahina in 6X.

 

The Ahina must really be a good fit for you.  It's the oldest shaft out of all that you mentioned.  If it ain't broke why fix it, right?  I agree about the TP and GP being more fade biased.  Btw, both are superior shafts.  My two cousins have the TP 6s in their drivers.  One is a pure fader of the ball and the other can go either way.  They are now both exclusively hitting little bleeders off the tee.  Way more controlled and accurate for both of them.  My + cap buddy plays the GP.   He can work the ball either way but tells me it's easier for him to cut the ball with the GP than any other shaft he has had.  For reference his last 2 shafts were the VS Proto and DI. 

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TM SIM ti 15* - Diamana GT 80TX

TM Tour Issue Rescue 11 TP Deep Face Proto 16* - Ventus Black HB 9TX

New Level NLU-01 21* - KBS Hybrid Proto 105X

New Level 623-M 5-PW - MMT 125TX

Miura Tour 54* HB - KBS 610 125 S+, New Level SPN forged M-grind 58* - KBS Tour 130X

Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, tsecor said:

Anti-left driver shaft?????  

 

Head to the auto parts store and ask for some blinker fluid too.....

 

This is very tongue in cheek but i like reading threads where equipment is viewed as the fix all when it couldnt be further from the truth.  ESPECIALLY when you are a mid to high HDCP player

If you had read what I said to begin with you would know I'm already very aware the shaft can only do so much. I was just looking for suggestions as to what shafts might help counteract the ball going left but thanks for your input!

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2 hours ago, mgoblue83 said:

Anti-Left:

  • Grip - Use a larger grip and hold it more neutral and more in your palms.
  • Club head - Use a low spin (LST) model with weight in the toe and lower the loft (opens the face). You may need to start with higher loft than you are used to.
  • Shaft - Find the "right" shaft which doesn't necessarily mean heavier and stiffer. For myself a harder to load shaft gives me more of a hit reflex with my hands and I tend to turn it over even more. TEST as many as you can and focus on feel and ball flight instead of distance. 
  • Swing - A left miss is a swing issue more than a club issue and the best thing you can do is identify and correct that issue. 

 

Thanks for your very helpful post, much appreciated 👍🏼

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The 'ahina was a unicorn of a find.  An ion version in perfect condition that holds its line beautifully with a low & piercing launch.  Winter in FL can get windy, but this OG gives the wind the bird.  

 

I am testing the GP as an alternate shaft for rain season when the fairways get soft and I don't get as much roll.  So far, so good.  Higher launch than the 'ahina but the same controlled cut.  

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2 hours ago, Morry said:

Why did you say Rome....I used to play this and it was effective...was never sure why though

 

do you know? 

Soft butt and stiff tip

 

 

2 hours ago, hagimihale said:

Folks, just want to point something out regarding the Graphite Design chart above.  The mapping is really in reference to other Graphite Design shafts, its not to be used as an exact mapping in comparison to all shafts.  And your swing dynamics may give you results that don't agree with the graph.

 

Examples: I own DI, MT and QT shafts, all in 6X.  All are listed as fade-biased on the chart.  I get low draws from the DI and MT.  Mid-launch draws from the QT.

 

However, I also own TP and GP in 6X and can play a controlled cut with either of them.

 

For reference, my SS is about 107, with a mid-to-late release.  My default shot shape is a draw, and my 6i carries 180.   I get along best with Diamana "white" profiles, and typically game a Diamana 'ahina in 6X.

 

 

The TP and GP don't feel too stiff?

 

Edited by Poolparty
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2 hours ago, phizzy30 said:

I wear cadet medium sized gloves to give you a good idea of my hand size.  I have overactive hands wrists on the downswing.  Would a jumbo max grip help me?  I've always hesitant about trying anything larger than a standard grip with only one to 2 wraps of tape. 


I’ve certainly found it to do so. If you hold the grip in your fingers though, I’d try jumbomax’s smaller grips. Their xs is larger than a regular jumbo.

 

you might want to try a regular built up midsize or jumbo grip first though and see if that helps

 

as an aside, Ventus black works very well, I’ve found the combination of that shaft and a larger grip almost impossible to take right (to the point where I’m going to a slightly smaller grip)

Edited by NNJ111
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1 hour ago, Red4282 said:

There is no one answer to this. Different players will respond different ways to changing shaft features (weight/flex/profile). Generally its thought that heavier and stiffer helps mitigate the left miss but this isnt the case for everyone so just keep that in mind. 

This ^^.  For me I find I hit anything less than 3 degrees torque with the driver more left. The higher the torque the more likely I miss right. I hit the driver very straight with very little curve so mine are more pulls and blocks. Heavier and stiffer isn’t always the answer but it may be for you OP. Hard part is the trial and error. And the cost. I would recommend finding a cheap fitter to get to try as many options as possible. 

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3 hours ago, tsecor said:

Anti-left driver shaft?????  

 

Head to the auto parts store and ask for some blinker fluid too.....

 

This is very tongue in cheek but i like reading threads where equipment is viewed as the fix all when it couldnt be further from the truth.  ESPECIALLY when you are a mid to high HDCP player

Also for your information I used to play off 5 but was out of the game for a few years and unfortunately have never been able to rediscover that level. Plus with work/family commitments I only get to play 18-27 holes per week whereas when I played off 5 I would have been out 3-4 times a week.

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4 hours ago, tsecor said:

Anti-left driver shaft?????  

 

Head to the auto parts store and ask for some blinker fluid too.....

 

This is very tongue in cheek but i like reading threads where equipment is viewed as the fix all when it couldnt be further from the truth.  ESPECIALLY when you are a mid to high HDCP player

 

...and I NEVER slice!

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29 minutes ago, AP76 said:

I know it's me and not the club or shaft. I would take a Monty fade over a draw/hook any time!👍🏼

 

I know you're getting a lot of jokes at this point, and I approve, but you might try what I have. The Tensei Orange is a pretty robust shaft. It's doesn't seem to like curving in either direction. If you like big, high and straight it's a fairly good option. 

 

To me, the Diamana stuff was always a bit soft. Mitsubishi is always a little mushy by flex, which I don't mean as an insult. But while the Blue (and to some degree White) profiles have a little give, the Orange seems quite strong. Might help you. Seems a lot of people fall instantly in love with the Orange. I know that was my experience. 

 

I have a Tensei Blue and a Diamana Blue in my fairways and they're pretty noticeably different than the Orange. I had 83x5ct Diamana blues awhile ago. Even at 80g they're pretty whippy (and I even had them tipped). That's just Diamana by nature. 

Edited by MelloYello
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TSR2 (3w / 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-P) (Nippon Modus3)

SM6 50.F / 56.F / 60.S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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2 hours ago, Poolparty said:

The TP and GP don't feel too stiff?

 

 

No they don't.  They feel right.  The other graphite design shafts (DI, MT, VR) that I own feel like soft noodles.   The QT isn't bad, but still feels a bit soft.

 

But I know I make an aggressive move through the ball, which is probably why the Diamana white profile works for me.  

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Titleist TSR3 19*:  LA Golf Ozik Black Tie 105S

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Grindworks PR-202 6-PW: Nippon Modus3 120X

Edel SMS 48*V / 60*T:  Nippon Modus 125 Wedge 

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      Ben Taylor with new Titleist TRS 2 wood - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Swag cover - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Greyson Sigg's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Davis Riley's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Josh Teater's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Hzrdus T1100 is back - - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Mark Hubbard testing ported Titleist irons – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Tyson Alexander testing new Titleist TRS 2 wood - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Hideki Matsuyama's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Cobra putters - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Joel Dahmen WITB – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Axis 1 broomstick putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Rory McIlroy testing a new TaylorMade "PROTO" 4-iron – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Rory McIlroy's Trackman numbers w/ driver on the range – 2024 Valero Texas Open
       
       
       
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