Grips...Why the cost? Budget vs OEM

[Hoff_19]

I have knockoff golf pride MCC +4 grips right now (Champkey from Amazon, $50 for set). Live in Hawaii, had them since last August. We get all kinds of weather and there's no difference in grippy-ness. Heat or rain I can't tell any difference. They're still in really good shape too. 

 

I think one thing different could be the manufacturing tolerances.

[Dbigman501]

Surely the companies manufacturing golf grips would never design their products to have a shorter lifespan in order to increase their sales, would they? Yes pure speculation of course on my part, but some comments implied a drop off in quality from earlier time frames to current.

[Soloman1]

I'm going to make the most expensive grips ever. Maybe $59.95 each.

 

I'll get someone with a gravely voice like Bob Parsons say, "These are the best grips money can buy. Period."

 

People will buy them just so they can say they bought them. They'll be showing them off on Instagram and here.

 

I'm going to be so rich.

[mogc60]

I just bought 13 Lamkin players cord grips for $68 on eBay. Great grip and at just over 5 per grip not to bad at all price wise. 

[bladehunter]

In reality leather grips from someone like best grips is the best value out there.  More up front , but the absolute tackiest grip you can buy , gets better in the rain , and will literally last for many years.  

Edited May 19, 2021 by bladehunter

[North Butte]

56 minutes ago, mogc60 said:

I just bought 13 Lamkin players cord grips for $68 on eBay. Great grip and at just over 5 per grip not to bad at all price wise. 

I saw that listing. I think that will be a really nice grip.

[NRJyzr]

38 minutes ago, bladehunter said:

In reality leather grips from someone like best grips is the best value out there.  More up front , but the absolute tackiest grip you can buy , gets better in the rain , and will literally last for many years.  

What you said.  🙂

 

That durability makes the cost/benefit better than it appears on the surface, and when you factor the performance with any kind of moisture in play, it became an easy choice for me.

 

I like Crosslines quite a bit, and have had some last absurdly long, but they don't compare when things get a little damp.  As they do for a Scandanavian boy in summer.  😉

 

[RobotDoctor]

15 hours ago, LeoLeo99 said:

 

Worth the investment if you play your clubs for 4 - 6 seasons.  

 
I install my grips using layers of painters tape, solvent and a little rubber cement on the end of the shaft and use compressed air to slide the grip on (with air grip tool).  I can easily blow off the grip withouy any damage and reuse them on another set if need be.   The compressor is an inexpensive pancake compressor that can be found at Home Depot, Lowe's or any hardware store.  Golfworks sells the grip removal tool.   I hole there is an investment with the initial tools the first grip pull saves that investment and then some.  Side note how I install the grips, I probably don't need the rubber cement and maybe can do it without grip solvent. I do this method because that's how Harry Sewill taught me and it works.  

[blazman11]

I was a huge Lamkin fanboy as I thought their grips were superior to anything GP put out. Until last year. I now hate everything Lamkin has to offer now.  Never liked Crosslines and they seem to have gone all in on them.   Players cord - gone, UTX wrap - gone, Z5 cord - gone, Sonar and ST are garbage and just as expensive as GP MCC. 

[North Butte]

3 minutes ago, blazman11 said:

I was a huge Lamkin fanboy as I thought their grips were superior to anything GP put out. Until last year. I now hate everything Lamkin has to offer now.  Never liked Crosslines and they seem to have gone all in on them.   Players cord - gone, UTX wrap - gone, Z5 cord - gone, Sonar and ST are garbage and just as expensive as GP MCC. 

I guess it's the aging golfer demographic but all the major brands are filtering in fewer and fewer old-school real cord and/or real rubber options with more and more of the squishy and plasticky materials. 

[blazman11]

1 minute ago, RobotDoctor said:

 
I install my grips using layers of painters tape, solvent and a little rubber cement on the end of the shaft and use compressed air to slide the grip on (with air grip tool).  I can easily blow off the grip withouy any damage and reuse them on another set if need be.   The compressor is an inexpensive pancake compressor that can be found at Home Depot, Lowe's or any hardware store.  Golfworks sells the grip removal tool.   I hole there is an investment with the initial tools the first grip pull saves that investment and then some.  Side note how I install the grips, I probably don't need the rubber cement and maybe can do it without grip solvent. I do this method because that's how Harry Sewill taught me and it works.  

‘you definitely don’t need rubber cement. You can also get an air compressor for the cheap at Harbor Freight. I have a 3 gallon one from their that’s going on 7 years. You can also buy a nozzle tool from HF that I insert into the butt end for large grips. For normal ‘ midsize grips I use the Pure grips tool. 
 

what I do buy from Home Depot is the green Frogger painters tape. Best build up tape I’ve found. For installing with air I just squirt one spray of solvent into the grip, aiming mostly at the beginning of grip. Just makes it slide in a little easier and doesn’t make an obnoxious squeaking sound then when installing. 

[reider69]

I love NDMC grips but they don't last very long.  $11 a grip and $3 per grip installation can get salty.  I replace my G-8 once a year since I use them the most.  My 7-5 rarely get used so they stay on.  The mark-up on grips must be substantial.

[mvhoffman]

1 hour ago, bladehunter said:

In reality leather grips from someone like best grips is the best value out there.  More up front , but the absolute tackiest grip you can buy , gets better in the rain , and will literally last for many years.  

what's funny is I started this thread, but I am looking at Best grips and Gripmaster right now.  Even with the new build coming up I am using the same shafts.  I don't see me going away from them so I figured why not the leathers.  The only thing that gets me a little concerned is the taper.  I actually am making the transition back to midsize with taper as opposed to the non taper style I have now.  

[bladehunter]

6 minutes ago, mvhoffman said:

what's funny is I started this thread, but I am looking at Best grips and Gripmaster right now.  Even with the new build coming up I am using the same shafts.  I don't see me going away from them so I figured why not the leathers.  The only thing that gets me a little concerned is the taper.  I actually am making the transition back to midsize with taper as opposed to the non taper style I have now.  

Use best grips in my opinion.  They sponsor this site and have a 15 off code for members. I believe it’s Wrx15  or something similar.   Texas made product and great people.  

[mvhoffman]

6 minutes ago, bladehunter said:

Use best grips in my opinion.  They sponsor this site and have a 15 off code for members. I believe it’s Wrx15  or something similar.   Texas made product and great people.  

That's the direction I was going.  Thanks for the heads up on the coupon code

[Stanks]

Tried them all. TV, cord, iomic, Lamkin, NDMC, Superstroke etc. all really good grips! 
My interpretation of these prices stems from the replacement amount on tour. Lotta grips swapped in and out but I don’t know if they’re paid for or what. 
I, personally, clean my grips a lot. Every round to every other round if possible. And I take a light to medium ish sand paper along with a mild degreaser at least once a month. They last and maintain their tack. I’ll use them for over a year.

[blazman11]

The tackiness and low maintenance of leather grips is awesome. I personally do not like the foam under layer. It significantly changes the feel and I just don’t care for it. The leather I’ve owned were firmer than a Winn but still too soft. Obviously that is my personal preference. I like putting the club in my hands were the callouses are built up. Leather is undoubtedly easier on the hands. 
 

best Grips are very good. I don’t know if this has changed as I ordered my grips 3-4 years ago. But standard grips were actually mid size (or close to) while under size were closer to standard. I did really like the stitching on leather grips. Acts like a reminder / GP align.  If you install leather grips yourself you must use a water based solvent like Brampton’s. 

[NRJyzr]

1 hour ago, blazman11 said:

best Grips are very good. I don’t know if this has changed as I ordered my grips 3-4 years ago. But standard grips were actually mid size (or close to) while under size were closer to standard.

 

My own purchase of two Microperfs from Best Grips was just a couple years ago.  Being a Cadet Medium glove size, I went with the Undersize Microperf, based on their recommendation.  Turned out to be a good choice.

 

With the GripMaster Roos that I also have in play, Standard size is what works.

 

 

1 hour ago, blazman11 said:

 If you install leather grips yourself you must use a water based solvent like Brampton’s. 

 

Bramptons is great, but even with that, I found it wasn't especially easy to install either brand of leather.  Part of why I went with an air compressor.

 

I now understand why the Best Grips video shows using WD40 as an option.  I haven't wanted to go that route, but after doing a dozen grips in the last couple days, I get it.  LOL

 

[NRJyzr]

2 hours ago, mvhoffman said:

what's funny is I started this thread, but I am looking at Best grips and Gripmaster right now.  Even with the new build coming up I am using the same shafts.  I don't see me going away from them so I figured why not the leathers.  The only thing that gets me a little concerned is the taper.  I actually am making the transition back to midsize with taper as opposed to the non taper style I have now.  

 

I'm pretty cheap when it comes to golf equipment (hence the pre-owned equipment in my bag), but still went the leather route.  Not having to change grips for years at a time is appealing, even without considering the performance with moisture involved.

 

Maybe it's also my inner accountant getting involved.  Cost benefit analysis and all that.  LOL

 

Edited May 19, 2021 by NRJyzr

[joostin]

Sorry in advance but have to:  would you trust cheap rubbers?! 😉

 

I'm also cheap when it comes to equipment, and I'm sure some cheap grips last just fine, but I've taken a liking to Pure DTX, which I've played with without a glove several times without a problem, even when wet.  Don't play much but they're still great after a couple years and probably have a couple more in them (keep them clean). 

 

Leather has always been tempting though for the durability and wet performance despite the initial cost. For me they would probably last as long as I keep the clubs for (decade+ at my rate), so definitely worth it. 👍

[Ri_Redneck]

3 hours ago, mvhoffman said:

what's funny is I started this thread, but I am looking at Best grips and Gripmaster right now.  Even with the new build coming up I am using the same shafts.  I don't see me going away from them so I figured why not the leathers.  The only thing that gets me a little concerned is the taper.  I actually am making the transition back to midsize with taper as opposed to the non taper style I have now.  

 

Long time leather user here. I custom taper my grips (larger under lower hand) and use a reduced taper. If you're wanting to go standard taper, I would definitely stick with GM.

 

Installing with air, I can add up to 4 layers of blue painters tape and still install pretty easy. So, if you want MORE than standard taper and plan to build up in the b u t t section, the GM grips will give you a little more leeway. Golfworks also has the GM underlist and wrap strips sold separately if you need even more room.

 

BT

[mogc60]

4 hours ago, North Butte said:

I saw that listing. I think that will be a really nice grip.

I’ve used them in the past. It’s one of the best cord grips I’ve used. I usually add 4 or 5 wraps of tape under the right hand but these size out perfect as is in the standard + size. 

[RobotDoctor]

4 hours ago, bladehunter said:

Use best grips in my opinion.  They sponsor this site and have a 15 off code for members. I believe it’s Wrx15  or something similar.   Texas made product and great people.  

I have been a convert to BestGrips when they we're GripmasterUSA.  After the split from Gripmaster Australia I followed the Sewills.  As long as they're making grips I'll be using their grips.  Probably longer.   Zach and Miss Susan are terrific people and treat their customers right.  Harry, the founder, was a salt of the earth kind of buy and it was my honor to be able to call him friend.  It is because of how I have always been treated by the Sewills and the quality of their product that makes me completely loyal to them.  I will never hesitate to recommend BestGrips.  
 

Edited May 19, 2021 by RobotDoctor

[puttingmatt]

New grips are on new clubs, right?

Most wrxers on these boards are buying 

new sets each year, whats the issue ?

Grip wears out, time for a new set, 

 

[MelloYello]

I've said over and over that if you're a fan of the Golf Pride BCT Cord, the better (and cheaper) alternative is from Tacki Mac. 

Dumb name but way better grip for way less money. I remember when GP Cords were "affordable." Seems like now they're all $12 if they're in stock at all. 

 

More texture on the Tacki Mac version, plus it seems to hold up forever. 

Edited May 19, 2021 by MelloYello

[miamistomp]

9 hours ago, blazman11 said:

‘

.I just squirt one spray of solvent into the grip, aiming mostly at the beginning of grip. Just makes it slide in a little easier and doesn’t make an obnoxious squeaking sound then when installing. 

 That's what , oh never mind..

[ChipNRun]

On 5/18/2021 at 12:05 PM, RolandofGilead said:

Lots of the more expensive popular grip models (Golf Pride NDMC, all Winn models, for instance) are actually multi-material or feature a proprietary composite surface layer for performance purposes.

 

Multimaterial + R&D + marketing costs make the brand names more expensive.

 

The question is which of the brand name models are "worth it" for the extra cost. If you find a cheaper, generic grip model that works for you, go for it.

 

Another issue is the question of durability. In the brand names, the Winn Dri-Tac were always a couple of dollars cheaper than some other name brands. Some posters complained the DTs were not very durable, and only lasted a few weeks.

 

I played quite a bit in the three years I used them, 20+ rounds a season and practice once or twice a week. But, for me they lasted through the season.

[Stetson]

I am surprised so many folks run through grips so fast. I have spent 100 days at the range in a summer with 80%+ humidity + 50 rounds in a summer and never remotely considered sanding, washing or replacing grips due to slick or hard issues. The only grip I’ve ever worn out was a No1 grip and that was within the first week. Perhaps it is because I play more harsh cord grips but I only switch when I am bored, never due to wear. 

[blazman11]

4 hours ago, miamistomp said:

 That's what , oh never mind..

LMAO!!!

[North Butte]

12 hours ago, Stetson said:

I am surprised so many folks run through grips so fast. I have spent 100 days at the range in a summer with 80%+ humidity + 50 rounds in a summer and never remotely considered sanding, washing or replacing grips due to slick or hard issues. The only grip I’ve ever worn out was a No1 grip and that was within the first week. Perhaps it is because I play more harsh cord grips but I only switch when I am bored, never due to wear. 

There are a couple reasons I can think of. Mainly, it's probably the type of material. A lot of the newer grips are NOT built for durability and they just wear out a lot faster than your old-school cord grips. I remember when I used to use the original GP Tour Wrap Full Cords back in the day. Good luck wearing those out.

 

But I've also played with guys who I'm not sure ever really clean their grips. Maybe a quick swipe with a damp towel after a few rounds. And they also wear these grotty old blackened, filthy golf gloves for dozens of rounds without ever washing them. If you use a dirty glove to hold an even dirtier grip then sure it's going to wear out faster. 

 

OTOH, I was recently asking another golfer about his driver and he handed it to me to look at. It originally had a Tour Velvet grip but you literally could not see the pattern on it any more. It was so worn down it was completely smooth like a putter grip and kind of cupped out/mashed down permanently in the areas where his hands go. I have no idea how he could swing that club without it flying out of his hands. So maybe it doesn't matter how fast or slow a grip wears out if you're never going to change it anyway!