Favorite Epoxy?

[Stuart_G]

That's not about being too strong, that's about the breakdown temp (Tg glass transition temp).  They are really two separate specs.    But yes, heat guns are generally too slow to do well with epoxies with higher breaking temps.  After a certain point, the thermal energy moves out and away from the hosel area as fast as the heat gun can add it.

 

According to Golfworks, the break down temp is 221* F  for both the max strength and high strength epoxies.  A little higher than some other epoxies out there, but not excessive by any means.

Edited June 7, 2021 by Stuart_G

[Seamus_McDuff]

10 hours ago, AndLun said:

 

Do you use the cups to measure by volume?

 

From what I have found, epoxy mix ratios are by volume and NOT by weight...does this sound correct?

 

 

Also, thank you very much for everyone's input here so far! 

According to this video from @RyanBarathWRX , GolfWorks does list a weight ratio on their EZ Pour

 

https://www.golfwrx.com/525270/club-building-101-understanding-epoxy/

[Nessism]

3 hours ago, Trap Junior said:

I bought Golfworks high strength epoxy a number of months ago and used it for the first times recently building demos.

 

It is way too strong.  Even very long exposure to high temp heat gun wouldnt melt it.  I had to get a guy to use his blow torch thing or whatever its called to get the heads off.   In 15 yrs of using epoxy and clubs and tinkering that has never happened to me before.  Heat gun always works.  In fact when undoing Mizuno clubs fromt he factory the heads come off quite easily.  1 min on the heat gun and a twist and they come off.  I nearly burnt my hand trying to take the golfworks heads off.  I had used to much heat the clubhead was so hot even using the gloves the heat slightly burnt my hand and I still couldnt get it off!

 

Heat guns are the wrong tool for removing heads.  A torch should be used always.  Especially for pulling graphite shafts.

 

When pulling iron heads w/steel shafts a torch on the hosel, constantly moving  for 15 seconds, and the head will twist right off.  I don't use a glove either because the heat is concentrated in the hosel, not all over the head like when using a heat gun.  

[GLF4EVR]

An exception for the heat gun.  For many years I have used a Milwaukee variable temp heat gun with a nozzle attachment that downsizes the airflow to 1/2".

 

The 24 hour cure epoxies have the higher rated shear strength so it takes some heat to break the bond.  On graphite shafts I tend to heat it up slowly with the Milwaukee gun & always use a shaft puller.  Can usually have the head off within a minute of heating.  Of course a steel shaft, just use the propane torch and done in well under 30 seconds.

[RobotDoctor]

On 6/2/2021 at 6:00 PM, Doaner84 said:

brampton 24 hour

Agreed.  I have had no issues with Brampton 24 hour epoxy from driver (blind bore and bore through) to lob wedge.  I'm running low so I'll be ordering more soon.  

[PorkChopExpress]

3M DP420 normal builds with little space heater box works so good. 
 

DP810 only for quick emergency builds. 

[markheardjr]

I have used the same 2 32oz bottles of 15min epoxy from GolfWorks.com for the last 6 years. Just sitting in my garage in Florida. No failures, hundreds of cures.

[RobS]

I like Loctite 2 part 11c & EPKC for most builds.  It's thick, which makes it nice to work with.  Ping used a version of this for years.  Runner up for me would be 3m DP420 or 460.  I used 3m DP810 for several years but it's increased in price and become less readily available.  It's great if you need a club ready to play quickly and it also doesn't require immaculate surface prep.

[dlow206]

I have an epoxy question. If the temperature gets cold overnight in the garage for example and epoxy curing slows down/stops, and then it warms up significantly the next day, does the epoxy curing restart or would it have permanently stopped?

 

Asking this more as a theoretical. 

 

@Nessism - maybe you have an answer for this?

Edited June 12, 2021 by dlow206

[Stuart_G]

1 minute ago, dlow206 said:

I have an epoxy question. If the temperature gets cold overnight in the garage for example and epoxy curing slows down/stops, and then it warms up significantly the next day, does the epoxy curing restart or would it have permanently stopped?

 

Asking this more as a theoretical. 

 

@Nessism - maybe you have an answer for this?

 

It slows but doesn't stop so will always continue until fully cured.   Now some epoxies don't reach the same level of strength when they cure at colder temperatures as they do at higher temps but in most cases that shouldn't be a problem - although you should check the particular epoxies spec sheets to get the full details.

 

[dlow206]

10 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

It slows but doesn't stop so will always continue until fully cured.   Now some epoxies don't reach the same level of strength when they cure at colder temperatures as they do at higher temps but in most cases that shouldn't be a problem - although you should check the particular epoxies spec sheets to get the full details.

 

 

Thanks, i have started using DP460 and usually try to heat cure it at 120 degrees. Was more so curious if there is such a thing as cold temperature causing the epoxy to permanently stop curing.  

[Stuart_G]

15 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

Thanks, i have started using DP460 and usually try to heat cure it at 120 degrees. Was more so curious if there is such a thing as cold temperature causing the epoxy to permanently stop curing.  

 

There's always going to be a lower limit for each type of epoxy.  Where that is will be different for each type of epoxy.   But to stop curing all together would have to be very cold for most household epoxies.    Even close to freezing and it will still be curing - very slowly though.  It might take a couple weeks to completely cure.

 

But that is a generalization, I don't think 3M publishes that data since it's well below the recommended curing temps.

[Manimal26]

On 6/2/2021 at 12:00 PM, Stuart_G said:

 

Not going to be much help since they went out of business, but my favorite was always the Golfsmith 24 hr (black) shafting epoxy.  Wish I knew where they sourced it from.

 

 

The company who actually made is called innovative resigns they now make all the golf works stuff... as @dlow206 stated the 460 you will have no issues, but another option is the DP810 if you don’t need the 460 strength

[Trouble_shooter]

Yea it was the water that did it, may even want to clean it with denatured alcohol on a q tip. All about the surface prep.

[MooJersey]

Another vote for the Golfworks epoxies.  I've used both the quick set and high impact epoxies with zero issues.  

[dlow206]

On 6/12/2021 at 10:03 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

There's always going to be a lower limit for each type of epoxy.  Where that is will be different for each type of epoxy.   But to stop curing all together would have to be very cold for most household epoxies.    Even close to freezing and it will still be curing - very slowly though.  It might take a couple weeks to completely cure.

 

But that is a generalization, I don't think 3M publishes that data since it's well below the recommended curing temps.

 

I finally found in a 3M document that makes a general statement that at 40F, the epoxies will take at least 3 to 4 times as long as the stated time at 73 F. 

 

"Cure times at 40°F (4°C) will be at least three to four times longer than room temperature cure."

[dlow206]

@Nessism - as the resident epoxy expert, which epoxy are you using these days?

 

Currently, my favorite is the DP420NS. i like the non-sag aspect and the specs seem to be solid for golf clubs. 

[Nessism]

8 hours ago, dlow206 said:

@Nessism - as the resident epoxy expert, which epoxy are you using these days?

 

Currently, my favorite is the DP420NS. i like the non-sag aspect and the specs seem to be solid for golf clubs. 

 

I'm using DP8410NS mostly.  It's an acrylic adhesive, not epoxy.  

Edited October 17, 2021 by Nessism

[SwingBlues]

On 6/8/2021 at 10:00 AM, markheardjr said:

I have used the same 2 32oz bottles of 15min epoxy from GolfWorks.com for the last 6 years. Just sitting in my garage in Florida. No failures, hundreds of cures.

 

My ez-pours are like may be 4 years old and I am starting to get some bad experiences with it, especially with my last build. Found out this was sensitive to movement in long cure times. Switched to the GolfWorks High Impact and Max Strength (VB1001) after talking to a well known club builder, and its been zero issues since then. Like the higher sheer strength as well...

[OspreyCI]

I have used Gorilla Epoxy a few times without issues. Sound crazy right? 

[denkea]

On 10/16/2021 at 10:31 PM, SwingBlues said:

Switched to the GolfWorks High Impact and Max Strength (VB1001)

Ditto this.  With this epoxy temp breakdown is way longer than with most epoxies.  

I was very surprised with the first pull I needed to do.  Took about 3 times normal.  

[rx7mark]

I also use Golfworks High strength epoxy and have never had issues with the epoxy failing.  I have had prep issues, and now I make sure and give both the hosel and shaft some mechanical grooves for the epoxy to grip.  I use a small file to gouge circular scratches on the inside of the hosel and then the same file to file 4 small half round indentations in the shaft near the end where strength is not important.  I have not had a failure since I started doing this.

[SwingBlues]

5 hours ago, denkea said:

Ditto this.  With this epoxy temp breakdown is way longer than with most epoxies.  

I was very surprised with the first pull I needed to do.  Took about 3 times normal.  

 

Thats good news for me. None of my reshafts with this epoxy has had any issue unlike my Ez-Pour.

 

Plus I have a GolfWorks tension graphite puller so its not a big deal on my end to still keep it at the most minimal temp point to pull. As well, I don't swap shafts often (hardly really) so its more or less perma from my end.

[ErichZF]

3M Scotch-Weld DP420.  Works great and I've never had an issues.  Get a mix gun and you're all set.  2:1.  

[dlow206]

Anyone know what epoxies OEMs use, such as Titleist and Callaway? Seems to break down easier than DP420, DP460, and Golfworks max strength (or whatever it is called)

[Patator]

Hello

 

Going through this very interesting post, I have decided to put together a table nearly with all adhesives mentionned here :

 

https://ibb.co/p4bM9Hh

 

Preparing this table, I've decided to give a go to the Penloc adhesive (I just bought two syringes for 30EUR). Even if the shear strength is below the DP810, I think 2900psi is sufficient.

 

I have also noticed that the brampton quick cure is an excellent alternative to the DP810 - 10USD for 1.5oz on brampton website (https://bramptontechnology.com/product/pro-fix-quick-cure-epoxy/)

So, I wonder why so many of you prefer using the DP810 rather than the Brampton Quick cure (shearing strength is nearly identical) - ? -

 

thanks for your comments

Pat

ps: feel free to complete my excel table with more adhesives that you find of a real interest for the community with all detailed specs and current price

 

penloc-gtr-vt-english-tds-panacol-adhesive.pdf DP420-Series-Datasheet.pdf DP460 Technical Data Page.pdf DP810 V2.pdf DP810.pdf DP8405NS_DP8410NS_DP8425NS.pdf epoxy comp.xlsx

Edited May 14, 2023 by Patator

[RCGA]

1 hour ago, Patator said:

So, I wonder why so many of you prefer using the DP810 rather than the Brampton 

 

For me it comes down to quick availability. I'm not a full-time club builder and might reshaft a dozen clubs a year. 

 

And when I need to reshaft a club, it's usually in-season and I don't have time to wait for some special epoxy to get mailed to me. Yeah I could "use the old stuff I have lying around" I don't like using epoxy for golf clubs that's been opened for more than a year. 

 

I've since switched to department store epoxy (JB Weld or Permatex) and haven't had a problem. Cheap. Well regarded brands. Available within 10min at multiple stores. 

[RobS]

On 5/14/2023 at 6:33 AM, Patator said:

 

 

So, I wonder why so many of you prefer using the DP810 rather than the Brampton Quick cure (shearing strength is nearly identical) - ? -

 

 

 

 

I prefer and use DP810.  While there are a number of products that offer the same strength, DP810 has attributes that make it extremely reliable for club building.  It doesn't require perfect prep.  While that shouldn't be taken that you don't have to properly prep the hosel and shaft, if you happen to have imperfections, DP810 will still maintain a strong bond.  DP810 also doesn't require exact mixing (quantity of the 2 components or mixing of the 2 components together).  That's one of the specific attributes that make acrylic adhesives different than 2 part epoxies.  A number of OEM's have moved to acrylics like DP810, most likely due to the ease of use and overall reliability.

[rbpwrx]

On 6/2/2021 at 1:05 PM, dscup said:

I'm a fan of JB Weld steel reinforced epoxy - haven't had any issues with it since I started buying it a few years ago.

 

+1

I was skeptical, but this stuff works SO much better than any of the dedicated 'golf' epoxies I've used over the years. It also FEELS better. Somehow, more solid, a little heavier, with a very pleasing 'welded' sensation through the ball.

Plus, it's cheap and ubiquitously available.

I will never use anything else.

[Nessism]

2 hours ago, rbpwrx said:

 

+1

I was skeptical, but this stuff works SO much better than any of the dedicated 'golf' epoxies I've used over the years. It also FEELS better. Somehow, more solid, a little heavier, with a very pleasing 'welded' sensation through the ball.

Plus, it's cheap and ubiquitously available.

I will never use anything else.

 

When I was in college, the muffler on my motorcycle rusted through, developing a sizeable hole.  Being a poor student, I couldn't afford a new muffler, so I mixed up a batch of JB Weld and slathered it over the rusted out areas, creating a patch.  Worked a treat!  That JBW stuff tolerates high heat amazingly well.  Hopefully, nobody sells golf clubs glued together with that stuff, though, because you might cook the shaft before it releases the head.