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That's not about being too strong, that's about the breakdown temp (Tg glass transition temp).  They are really two separate specs.    But yes, heat guns are generally too slow to do well with epoxies with higher breaking temps.  After a certain point, the thermal energy moves out and away from the hosel area as fast as the heat gun can add it.

 

According to Golfworks, the break down temp is 221* F  for both the max strength and high strength epoxies.  A little higher than some other epoxies out there, but not excessive by any means.

Edited by Stuart_G
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Okay boys. Just build yourselves one of these babies and never worry about your epoxy not being at the proper temperature again.  The heat source is a tiny space heater I found at Menard's for $10.  T

This "best practices" guide was pulled from a thread about reshafting newer Ping irons but most of what's mentioned applies for all irons.     My recommendations for anyone reshafting

Not going to be much help since they went out of business, but my favorite was always the Golfsmith 24 hr (black) shafting epoxy.  Wish I knew where they sourced it from.   Do you keep the l

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10 hours ago, AndLun said:

 

Do you use the cups to measure by volume?

 

From what I have found, epoxy mix ratios are by volume and NOT by weight...does this sound correct?

 

 

Also, thank you very much for everyone's input here so far! 


According to this video from @RyanBarathWRX , GolfWorks does list a weight ratio on their EZ Pour

 

https://www.golfwrx.com/525270/club-building-101-understanding-epoxy/

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3 hours ago, Trap Junior said:

I bought Golfworks high strength epoxy a number of months ago and used it for the first times recently building demos.

 

It is way too strong.  Even very long exposure to high temp heat gun wouldnt melt it.  I had to get a guy to use his blow torch thing or whatever its called to get the heads off.   In 15 yrs of using epoxy and clubs and tinkering that has never happened to me before.  Heat gun always works.  In fact when undoing Mizuno clubs fromt he factory the heads come off quite easily.  1 min on the heat gun and a twist and they come off.  I nearly burnt my hand trying to take the golfworks heads off.  I had used to much heat the clubhead was so hot even using the gloves the heat slightly burnt my hand and I still couldnt get it off!

 

Heat guns are the wrong tool for removing heads.  A torch should be used always.  Especially for pulling graphite shafts.

 

When pulling iron heads w/steel shafts a torch on the hosel, constantly moving  for 15 seconds, and the head will twist right off.  I don't use a glove either because the heat is concentrated in the hosel, not all over the head like when using a heat gun.  

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Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 5 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Ping G410 irons w/Recoil 95S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Anser/Arna putter - the "real deal!"

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An exception for the heat gun.  For many years I have used a Milwaukee variable temp heat gun with a nozzle attachment that downsizes the airflow to 1/2".

 

The 24 hour cure epoxies have the higher rated shear strength so it takes some heat to break the bond.  On graphite shafts I tend to heat it up slowly with the Milwaukee gun & always use a shaft puller.  Can usually have the head off within a minute of heating.  Of course a steel shaft, just use the propane torch and done in well under 30 seconds.

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On 6/2/2021 at 6:00 PM, Doaner84 said:

brampton 24 hour


Agreed.  I have had no issues with Brampton 24 hour epoxy from driver (blind bore and bore through) to lob wedge.  I'm running low so I'll be ordering more soon.  

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5°, Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S (non-Velocore)

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Ben Hogan Icon 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW:  Ben Hogan 1999 Apex blade E (PW) bent to 50°, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

SW & LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 56° (bent to 54°) / 58°, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter: Byron Morgan custom Epic Day

Ball: Taylormade Tour Preferred (2016 ball)

Bag: Sun Mountain 2.5 stand bag

 

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I have used the same 2 32oz bottles of 15min epoxy from GolfWorks.com for the last 6 years. Just sitting in my garage in Florida. No failures, hundreds of cures.

TaylorMade M3 9.5° w/ Graphite Design TourAD GP 6 TX
TaylorMade SIM ROCKET 14.5° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max 5W 19° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5 (Hunting for a 17.5° tour issue SIM head.)
TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 3-19° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 4-22° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

Srixon Z745 5-PW w/ Modus Nippon Modus Prototype ORA X

Cleveland 588 RTX CB 52° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Srixon WG-706 56° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Scotty Cameron SS Newport Beach w/ UST Frequency Filter and Rosemark Thorn 1.25 grip

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I like Loctite 2 part 11c & EPKC for most builds.  It's thick, which makes it nice to work with.  Ping used a version of this for years.  Runner up for me would be 3m DP420 or 460.  I used 3m DP810 for several years but it's increased in price and become less readily available.  It's great if you need a club ready to play quickly and it also doesn't require immaculate surface prep.

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I have an epoxy question. If the temperature gets cold overnight in the garage for example and epoxy curing slows down/stops, and then it warms up significantly the next day, does the epoxy curing restart or would it have permanently stopped?

 

Asking this more as a theoretical. 

 

@Nessism - maybe you have an answer for this?

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1 minute ago, dlow206 said:

I have an epoxy question. If the temperature gets cold overnight in the garage for example and epoxy curing slows down/stops, and then it warms up significantly the next day, does the epoxy curing restart or would it have permanently stopped?

 

Asking this more as a theoretical. 

 

@Nessism - maybe you have an answer for this?

 

It slows but doesn't stop so will always continue until fully cured.   Now some epoxies don't reach the same level of strength when they cure at colder temperatures as they do at higher temps but in most cases that shouldn't be a problem - although you should check the particular epoxies spec sheets to get the full details.

 

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10 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

It slows but doesn't stop so will always continue until fully cured.   Now some epoxies don't reach the same level of strength when they cure at colder temperatures as they do at higher temps but in most cases that shouldn't be a problem - although you should check the particular epoxies spec sheets to get the full details.

 

 

Thanks, i have started using DP460 and usually try to heat cure it at 120 degrees. Was more so curious if there is such a thing as cold temperature causing the epoxy to permanently stop curing.  

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15 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

Thanks, i have started using DP460 and usually try to heat cure it at 120 degrees. Was more so curious if there is such a thing as cold temperature causing the epoxy to permanently stop curing.  

 

There's always going to be a lower limit for each type of epoxy.  Where that is will be different for each type of epoxy.   But to stop curing all together would have to be very cold for most household epoxies.    Even close to freezing and it will still be curing - very slowly though.  It might take a couple weeks to completely cure.

 

But that is a generalization, I don't think 3M publishes that data since it's well below the recommended curing temps.

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On 6/2/2021 at 12:00 PM, Stuart_G said:

 

Not going to be much help since they went out of business, but my favorite was always the Golfsmith 24 hr (black) shafting epoxy.  Wish I knew where they sourced it from.

 

 

The company who actually made is called innovative resigns they now make all the golf works stuff... as @dlow206 stated the 460 you will have no issues, but another option is the DP810 if you don’t need the 460 strength

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Driver SIM 10.5, Graphite Design Tour AD-XC 6X 

Woods TSi2 16.5, Fujikura Ventus Blue 7X

Hybrid:  G410 3&4H, Graphite Design Tour AD-DI 95X 

Irons T-100 3-PW, Nippon Modus 120 X 

Wedges:  T20, DG TI S400, 50/56/60

Putter:   ER1.2 W/BGT Stability Shaft

Ball:   ProV1X-Optic Yellow

Bag:  Pioneer

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On 6/12/2021 at 10:03 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

There's always going to be a lower limit for each type of epoxy.  Where that is will be different for each type of epoxy.   But to stop curing all together would have to be very cold for most household epoxies.    Even close to freezing and it will still be curing - very slowly though.  It might take a couple weeks to completely cure.

 

But that is a generalization, I don't think 3M publishes that data since it's well below the recommended curing temps.

 

I finally found in a 3M document that makes a general statement that at 40F, the epoxies will take at least 3 to 4 times as long as the stated time at 73 F. 

 

"Cure times at 40°F (4°C) will be at least three to four times longer than room temperature cure."

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