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Question on removal of Callaway Maverick adapter


GLF4EVR
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Golf buddy got a Maverick driver from his son for Christmas.  It had a stiff shaft & he needed a senior flex.  He gave me the shaft to try.  It looks like just under 5/8" of the inside diameter of the tip was reamed out for the Callaway adapter.  Have never seen this before, so I am guessing this is standard for Callaway adapters.  I was going to put a TaylorMade adapter on & try it out before even thinking of selling it.  Have PX LZ graphite in the irons & currently a PX LZ handcrafted shaft in the driver.

 

Mt first thought was just to trim 1/2" off the tip, put an adapter on & try it in the driver.  Second thought was maybe try it in my old 3 wood.  It is an old R580 3 wood.  Have tried newer 3 woods, but nothing beats the R580.  Then wondered if I should trim more off the tip.....or is the tip sound enough now to support a TaylorMade adapter to try on the driver??  Too many thoughts floating in the head, so think it is best to check in with all of you on this site that know more about this than me.

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12 hours ago, GLF4EVR said:

Golf buddy got a Maverick driver from his son for Christmas.  It had a stiff shaft & he needed a senior flex.  He gave me the shaft to try.  It looks like just under 5/8" of the inside diameter of the tip was reamed out for the Callaway adapter. 

 

The only valid reason to ream out the ID of the shaft is to make room for a tip weight (it has nothing to do with the adapter).  And even then there are limits to how far one should go.  Unfortunately not a lot of data on where that limit might be since it's not common for builders to push that limit.    So the best you'll get is various opinions.

 

I've gone to 11/64" in iron shafts with no problems - but they generally more in terms of wall thickness to start with but they also need to take more abuse than the wood shafts.    I did get a Callaway Fairway with a Rogue silver that had a tip weight.  I never did measure the ID but it was a bit more than the 11/64" above and I never had any issues with the shaft.

 

Considering the tip size is .335"  and 5/8" = 0.625"   I'm guessing the 5/8" number is the length that tip was reamed out, not the diameter.   What's the actual ID they reamed it out to?

 

 

Quote

Then wondered if I should trim more off the tip.....or is the tip sound enough now to support a TaylorMade adapter to try on the driver?? 

 

If we want go ahead and assume the ID was expanded past the point where it is safe to use as is  (I'm not convinced but in the presence of any doubt, it's certainly the safer approach) then ....

 

Again the adapter doesn't matter but the bore depth does and the TM adapter does have a decent bore depth - 1.25" or more depending on the adapter variant.  When glued to the hosel, the hosel itself acts as a reinforcement to the shaft walls.  The internal stress on the shaft will be highest at the top of the hosel  and because of that reinforcement, will decrease as you progress down into the hosel.      Now how much tipping will be safe is obviously hard to say for sure and varies on a lot of factors, but I'd say that 1/2" of tipping would be very safe (assuming it wasn't already tipped and are near the max tipping for the parallel tip length).    To be honest,  I'd think 1/4" of tipping would likely be fine as long as the swing speeds weren't' too crazy and the player doesn't frequently get impact in the heel.  But 1/2" is certainly safer.

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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Thanks for the help Stuart.  Will admit, first thought of getting the calipers  to measure the wall thickness.  However, the more I looked at it I just thought the wall thickness was way too thin to start with.

 

Will go with 1/2" tip trim.  Will do a little research first to see if the shaft might already have been tip trimmed.  This was pulled from a brand new driver, but still will check to make sure. 

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6 hours ago, Thinnedit said:

Thats exactly how its meant to look.

Riptide 50g stiff has a pretty big tip i.d

 

If you need I can get a pic of a new shaft to put you at ease.

Thank you!  Would appreciate a picture to see it.  Might help my brain try to get past thinking it is just way too thin to mess with.

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8 hours ago, Thinnedit said:

Also prep length is 1.5" for an optifit. Not sure what it is for TM

 

Actually, you don't need to prep under the ferrule, just the insertion depth of the adapter w/o the ferrule - which is only ~1.25" for the Callaway.   TM adapters will vary from 1.25" to 1.4" depending on the specific variant of the adapter.

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On 6/8/2021 at 5:47 PM, Stuart_G said:

 

Actually, you don't need to prep under the ferrule, just the insertion depth of the adapter w/o the ferrule - which is only ~1.25" for the Callaway.   TM adapters will vary from 1.25" to 1.4" depending on the specific variant of the adapter.

You may have read my post wrong.

Callaway preps driver/bonded hosel shafts 1.5", its written into the club specs.

 

If its been prepped 1.5" then its been done in accordance to callaway specifications.

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10 hours ago, Thinnedit said:

You may have read my post wrong.

Callaway preps driver/bonded hosel shafts 1.5", its written into the club specs.

 

If its been prepped 1.5" then its been done in accordance to callaway specifications.

 

I didn't really read it wrong but it's true I wasn't aware of any such spec.  Where exactly is that written?

 

But while that is interesting, it doesn't really change anything about my response.   Whether it's in the specs or not, prepping farther than the bore depth is completely unnecessary.  It's the fit and adhesion properties between the shaft and the aluminum part of the adapter that's important, not between the shaft and the plastic ferrule.   If the fit between the ferrule and shaft is too tight, there are several ways to deal with that - and (for me) going higher with the shaft prep is not an option that I'd use.   Maybe because I do tend to hold onto shafts and swap out different adapters.   That's not something Callaway is really worried about.

 

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On 6/10/2021 at 7:30 PM, Stuart_G said:

 

I didn't really read it wrong but it's true I wasn't aware of any such spec.  Where exactly is that written?

 

But while that is interesting, it doesn't really change anything about my response.   Whether it's in the specs or not, prepping farther than the bore depth is completely unnecessary.  It's the fit and adhesion properties between the shaft and the aluminum part of the adapter that's important, not between the shaft and the plastic ferrule.   If the fit between the ferrule and shaft is too tight, there are several ways to deal with that - and (for me) going higher with the shaft prep is not an option that I'd use.   Maybe because I do tend to hold onto shafts and swap out different adapters.   That's not something Callaway is really worried about.

 

Its written in Callaways internal spec sheets.

 

I agree with everything you're saying by the way. Its definitely unnecessary to prep to that extent. At 1½" the prep does finish up about ⅛" short of the ferrule so at least its still hidden. But thats the spec nonetheless.

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24 minutes ago, Thinnedit said:

Its written in Callaways internal spec sheets.

 

I agree with everything you're saying by the way. Its definitely unnecessary to prep to that extent. At 1½" the prep does finish up about ⅛" short of the ferrule so at least its still hidden. But thats the spec nonetheless.

 

If it's internal, it's likely just written for the sake of the factory workers and maybe tour van employees.  Not something that we need to pay much attention to.

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