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Old clubs? Anyone still gaming 10+ yr old stuff


Sportfishingguy

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9 hours ago, Esox said:

My 21 yr old son is playing my late 90's Yonex ADX Tours (3-10, PW, SW ). Simply the best feeling, best looking forged club I have ever hit, and I have hit some classics. He is also putting with a late 70's Ping.

I have never hit the ADX Tours but if they feel as good as the ADX Tour 8802 style putter then you have superior feel. I had one I found on the scrap pile at work. I ended up giving it to a young friend of mine who was trying to pass his PAT for his Class A card. LOL he still has it. 

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W-- Callaway RAZR-- Speeder 565 R Flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* TT Sensicore S-400

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Cleveland Designed By 8802 style

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1 hour ago, BIG STU said:

I have never hit the ADX Tours but if they feel as good as the ADX Tour 8802 style putter then you have superior feel. I had one I found on the scrap pile at work. I ended up giving it to a young friend of mine who was trying to pass his PAT for his Class A card. LOL he still has it. 

If you ever get the chance, hit one. I was playing Macgregor Tournies when I switched to the Yonexs. Got two of my aces with them, they are just so predictable and pure with a good stroke.  Thankfully I was single, those irons were over a grand in late 90's dollars......

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20 hours ago, Drivingrangehero said:

Adams Super 9031 proto hybrid when they were $23.99 for the head only (the 23* is in and out of my bag regularly depending on where I’m playing.

 

20 hours ago, Drivingrangehero said:

Some of the older Adams stuff still can’t be beat IMHO! 

Agreed!  My wife took over my Super 9031 23° after I let her hit it, and it's now her go to club 😆.  I should actually change my signature... Back to my Mizuno MP-H4 utility-like 4 iron which plays similarly for me to that hybrid.  Btw my Adams driver #1 hits a little longer than my TS2 driver #2.  #adamsloveisstillstrong

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D1 Cobra LTDx, OG HZ Black 62 6.5 D2 TM R510TP, 757X 3W OG Ping Rapture, OG HZ Black 75 6.0 20°H Ping G20, CTLX 5I Cobra F9, CTLX 5I-PW Mizuno MP-54, CTLX GW Nike VPC, V120X 54, 60 CBX Zipcore, V120X Cure RX4, CX3. WITB Link. CAD Designs on IG @joostin.golf

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18 minutes ago, joostin said:

 

Agreed!  My wife took over my Super 9031 23° after I let her hit it, and it's now her go to club 😆.  I should actually change my signature... Back to my Mizuno MP-H4 utility-like 4 iron which plays similarly for me to that hybrid.  Btw my Adams driver #1 hits a little longer than my TS2 driver #2.  #adamsloveisstillstrong

I posted some thing in a different location about old driver and new driver.

 

 I get the exact same ball speed with my ping G410 LST   With an aftermarket TX shaft  as I do my 2006 Titleist 905R with a pro force V2 bumblebee shaft. There is no difference and the Titleist shaft is 1/4 inch shorter ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

the Ping is lower spin and more forgiving 

 

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39 minutes ago, Drivingrangehero said:

I posted some thing in a different location about old driver and new driver.

 

 I get the exact same ball speed with my ping G410 LST   With an aftermarket TX shaft  as I do my 2006 Titleist 905R with a pro force V2 bumblebee shaft. There is no difference and the Titleist shaft is 1/4 inch shorter ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

the Ping is lower spin and more forgiving 

 

LOL I have a 905R with the V-2 Bumble Bee shaft. Right now it is a little stiff for me but man back in the day I used to bomb it

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W-- Callaway RAZR-- Speeder 565 R Flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* TT Sensicore S-400

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Cleveland Designed By 8802 style

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6 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

Ni ISI's play splendidly for a 25 year old design.  Reshafted to ones more suitable to current realities.  A mixed bag of old and new.  The V-Steels due for a shaft evolution during the off season.  The B60 has been seeing more bag time of late, due to making a few putts with it.  

 

fullsizeoutput_1333.jpeg.1e06b7b195f28fb68068faaf4d8b2057.jpeg

What shafts are in you V-Steels now?

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Ping G400 Max driver w Fujikura Vista Pro 55 

TaylorMade Sim2 Max-D 5W w Diamana s60 Limited

Cobra F8 One Length 3H and 4H

Cobra F7 One Length 5-GW

Cleveland CG15 55* & 60* 

Bridgestone TD-01 putter

Jumbomax JMX Ultralite XL grips

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4 hours ago, dhappy42 said:

What shafts are in you V-Steels now?

 

Grafalloy PL Platinum 75g S in the 7, GD YS6+ R in the 9.  Retired V's have PL Plats in a 4 and 5.  The new 5 in the bag was mostly to evaluate playing a LW (50g) A flex shaft in a fairway.  Discovering that I quite like the Kuro Kage HBP shaft.  As a more seasoned golfer, LW is proving beneficial and not having any control issues with A flex.  Likely be the shaft I'll install in the 7 & 9 this off season.  

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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I was playing 20 yr old Mizuno MX20's I picked up used last year when I started golfing again because my youngest had taken up the game. Great clubs, but I decided my old self needed some more help.  Bought a set of Titleist T300's a few months back. At first I had some reservations when I got them on the course, seemed like the only shot they knew was high and straight. They may not be blades, but they can be knocked down and worked either way, while giving incredible forgiveness at the same time.

And I was playing a Wilson Killer Whale from the early 90's till my kid gave me a Ping G400. What a difference!

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During covid, I upgraded everything to about circa 2018, all new clubs. In the past few weeks, I picked up a SIM Max driver.

 

However, I still have my V Steel 3 wood. I think I bought it new in 2003.

Driver: Cobra LTDx 10.5° Helium Nanocore

Fairway: Cobra RADSPEED 18.5° Motore X

Hybrids: Titleist TSi2 21°, 24° TENSEI AV RAW Blue

Utility Iron: Titleist 718 AP1 24° Recoil 780

Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 AMT Red

Wedges: Vokey SM8 48°, 54° Dynamic Gold; SM7 60° Modus3

Putter: Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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2 hours ago, Esox said:

I should add, my kid recently won a closest to the pin for some nice coin using an old 1990s(?) Burner Bubble 7 wood on a 218 yard slightly uphill par 3. It was a club tossed in on a deal that he took a liking to, he liked the solid feel..

 

I have a Big Bertha from the same era and all I can say is I wish I had gotten one before.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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On 8/21/2021 at 12:07 PM, dhappy42 said:

What shafts are in you V-Steels now?

3 wood -- Old Aldila green NVS 65 R---- I did not build that club but found it on the scrap pile where I did work. 

7 Wood----- UST Pro Force Gold 65 R------ That shaft I have had for years in that thing--- I had it in the 65 Gold Stiff days for me when all of my metals had the 65 Gold Stiff in them. I had that club set up to hit a slight draw when needed the tip is a little stiff but it works for me. I bought that club new and then it had a stock TM stiff in it. Ended up after 5 years or so breaking that shaft off at the tip and had got on the Gold 65 kick then. 

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W-- Callaway RAZR-- Speeder 565 R Flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* TT Sensicore S-400

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Cleveland Designed By 8802 style

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On 8/21/2021 at 10:47 PM, Esox said:

I should add, my kid recently won a closest to the pin for some nice coin using an old 1990s(?) Burner Bubble 7 wood on a 218 yard slightly uphill par 3. It was a club tossed in on a deal that he took a liking to, he liked the solid feel..

Never ever let him get rid of it he will regret it later---- Main thing is he took a liking to it and he likes the feel

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W-- Callaway RAZR-- Speeder 565 R Flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* TT Sensicore S-400

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Cleveland Designed By 8802 style

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I've been playing the same putter since freshman year in college -

 

Odyssey White Hot Rossie Putter Golf Club for sale online | eBay

 

 

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TSR3 9° Ventus Black TR 6X - Stealth+ 3W Ventus Blue 6TX - Stealth+ 5W Ventus Black TR 8X - Mizuno 225 4i / MP 20 5-PW Proj X IO 6.0 - Titleist SM9 S200 50.12F 55.11D 60.04T - Rossie White Hot (Circa ~2002...I forget)

Indocti discant et ament meminisse periti

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I just took out my set of Ben Hogan Icon irons and put my set of Ban Hogan '99 Apex blades back in.  While I really love the "V" sole of the Icons I have come to the realization that I hit the '99 Apex blades better.  

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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Putter is from 2005. Cameron 009 Proto.

Driving iron/Hybrid is from 2006. Bridgestone J33 Airmuscle

7WD is from 2007. Exotics CB2

Wedges from 2011. Chikara V1 Proto's.

Experimenting with a V-Steel 9WD.

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The answer to better golf is work your butt off and learn how to hit it better, farther, and make more putts.

 

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On 6/29/2021 at 3:44 PM, Sportfishingguy said:

I’m still gaming 962 irons (2-W), an i15 driver and an old Adam’s tight lies tour 17 FW. I shoot low 70s on average and just haven’t liked much (if any) of the new stuff..

 

Anyone else in the same boat? Just haven’t seen anything that’s that drastic of a performance enhancement to replace my old stuff… 

My Hybrid Shafts are from '03/'04. Won't be replaced anytime soon. 

 

Theeeeeee @Fujikura Golf Tourspec Speeder 904HB Extra Stiff in Ion Finish.

 

I have gamed it: 2004-2009, and then again in 2013-Present. 13 years total we've been together. 

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18 hours ago, RobotDoctor said:

I just took out my set of Ben Hogan Icon irons and put my set of Ban Hogan '99 Apex blades back in.  While I really love the "V" sole of the Icons I have come to the realization that I hit the '99 Apex blades better.  

Yep I can see that happening with you hitting the 99s better. You are just like me grew up on those butter knives and just hit them better

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W-- Callaway RAZR-- Speeder 565 R Flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* TT Sensicore S-400

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Cleveland Designed By 8802 style

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I went to the range with my "new" blades and hit them really good, in fact my misses were just draws instead of hooks. I have never hit the ball so high either my 28 deg. 5 iron was a "moon" ball every time, probably due to the less offset. I hit it as high as I hit my 8 iron in my other set. Certainly toe hits were punishing but at my course short and straight is always better than long and left.

 

As I see it having a swing path from the inside is more important for playing blades than the h.c. because one would probably naturally hit it closer to the hosel.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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9 hours ago, chipa said:

I went to the range with my "new" blades and hit them really good, in fact my misses were just draws instead of hooks. I have never hit the ball so high either my 28 deg. 5 iron was a "moon" ball every time, probably due to the less offset. I hit it as high as I hit my 8 iron in my other set. Certainly toe hits were punishing but at my course short and straight is always better than long and left.

 

As I see it having a swing path from the inside is more important for playing blades than the h.c. because one would probably naturally hit it closer to the hosel.

 

Theoretically speaking, lower offset would produce lower shots, because the CG is potentially more forward.  

 

Guessing, of course, but the height you're seeing could be from a lower CG.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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1 hour ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Theoretically speaking, lower offset would produce lower shots, because the CG is potentially more forward.  

 

Guessing, of course, but the height you're seeing could be from a lower CG.

 

 

The face being closed delofts the club as well and overides any effect of the cg being farther back.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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2000 Ping Anser 2x

2011 Nike VR Pro LTD 3 and 5 Wood

 

The putter is my absolute baby there's nothing I've ever found that i can Line up and aim better and the Fairway woods are so consistent and easy to shape, plus I never get the random no spin knuckler that I've found common with newer fairway woods especially from TM 

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Taylormade  BRNR Mini Copper 11.5 KBS TD 70 Category 5 or Ventus TR Black 7x

Taylormade  Stealth 3HL/16.5 16.5 Tour AD DI 9x

Taylormade Stealth 7/21  Project X Tour Issue 10A2 7.0

Cleveland XL Halo 9/24 Fujikura Ventus TR Black 9x (IN TESTING)

Srixon ZX7 MK II 5-9 Nippon Modus 130X

Cleveland RTX 6 48/8, 54/8, 60/06 PX 6.5

Evnroll ER2v Midlock 41"

 Srixon Z-Star Diamond

 

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17 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

The face being closed delofts the club as well and overides any effect of the cg being farther back.

 

Irons don't have an inherent face angle.  

 

In the swing, the CG attempts to align itself with the shaft of the club; this is true of all clubs, not just irons.  The farther back the CG, the more the clubhead will move forward in the swing.  This has the effect of increasing loft, and closing the face somewhat.  The effective increase in loft is greater than what is reduced from that face closing in the dynamics of the swing.

 

This is really where the "offset can produce a draw" originates.  It's not from actually giving more time to close the club in the swing, but this dynamic movement of the clubhead due to the farther back CG.

 

And, making it all more interesting...  much/most/all of this can be overridden by we humans.  Not unlike how players can over compensate to a ball below their feet and hit a draw instead of the expected fade (I do this too often).  Or, a golfer reacting to a too stiff shaft by increasing their release of the club and drawing/hooking it.

 

Great fun.  🙂 
 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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59 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Irons don't have an inherent face angle.  

 

In the swing, the CG attempts to align itself with the shaft of the club; this is true of all clubs, not just irons.  The farther back the CG, the more the clubhead will move forward in the swing.  This has the effect of increasing loft, and closing the face somewhat.  The effective increase in loft is greater than what is reduced from that face closing in the dynamics of the swing.

 

This is really where the "offset can produce a draw" originates.  It's not from actually giving more time to close the club in the swing, but this dynamic movement of the clubhead due to the farther back CG.

 

And, making it all more interesting...  much/most/all of this can be overridden by we humans.  Not unlike how players can over compensate to a ball below their feet and hit a draw instead of the expected fade (I do this too often).  Or, a golfer reacting to a too stiff shaft by increasing their release of the club and drawing/hooking it.

 

Great fun.  🙂 
 

 

The end result is that players that hit from inside to out will hook irons and woods with more offset, they will also hit them lower as well.

 

Also, I have never hit any irons straighter or higher that I have hit these DCI's. I am starting to think that this may also be why I hit the smaller Big Bertha woods better with their square or even open face as opposed to the oversized woods I have tried due to their closed faces at address. Sure I can manipulate the face at address but I see the advantage of having something that is more or less automatic so I can focus on my setup and making a fluid swing.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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36 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

The end result is that players that hit from inside to out will hook irons and woods with more offset, they will also hit them lower as well.

 

Also, I have never hit any irons straighter or higher that I have hit these DCI's. I am starting to think that this may also be why I hit the smaller Big Bertha woods better with their square or even open face as opposed to the oversized woods I have tried due to their closed faces at address. Sure I can manipulate the face at address but I see the advantage of having something that is more or less automatic so I can focus on my setup and making a fluid swing.

 

For me, it was the opposite.  Played Eye2+ for a year, found myself hitting more draws, and hit the ball *considerably* higher, in spite of them having a higher CG.

 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I play nearly 20 year old TaylorMade rac LT irons (3-pw) with Rifle FCM 6.0 shafts, bought new circa 2003 from Sports Authority. 

 

Ping G2i Anser C putter, can't remember the year, maybe 2008-2010-ish.

 

TaylorMade RBZ Stage 2 Driver and 3 Wood, circa 2012-13-ish.

 

The search for new irons has led me to this forum, so I'm in the market now for some Callaway Apex or Apex and Pro/combo set, but I won't part with my driver, 3 wood, or putter just yet.

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I hit my 2005 TM R7 pretty well at the range yesterday, but I hit a few blocks. I had a problem getting it square at address is sat really wide open, maybe it was the 47" shaft. At any rate I damaged the face so I will stick with my 98 Big Bertha 2 wood for now.

 

It appears I do better with irons with less offset and drivers with a square or slightly open face. Also, I see that I hit my small fairway woods and irons well, so I think I'm going to get an old driver of no more than 320 cc. Basically a mini driver but much cheaper.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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