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How to dial in driver settings?


Mych
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How do you dial in settings for a driver you already own?  

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I bought an M6 recently and am having trouble dialing it in. Out of 5 shots, 1 is mediocre/poor, 3 are average, and 1 is flat out amazing.  I know the biggest variable is the (lack of) consistency of my swing, but I'd also like to figure out how to get the best result as often as possible when I put a decent swing on it. 

 

In the past, I'd pound range balls until I saw a shape/accuracy that I liked, and just hope that distance/dispersion is close to optimal. I'd like to test on a launch monitor and take some time trying out the settings this time, but I'm not sure whether to try to focus on optimizing with the current shaft or to go the full-fitting route which may involve changing shafts/lengths/weights/etc. I'm kinda hoping to avoid the $500 that I'm sure I'd end up spending on a fitting, new shaft, hotmelt, etc.

Edited by Mych

"Of all the hazards, fear is the worst" - Sam Snead
WITB: Taylormade M6 ~ Ping Anser 4w ~ Ping G30 3h ~ Cobra King Forged One 4-P ~ Cobra King 50-V, 56-WL, Titleist Vokey 60 ~ Cleveland HB 11

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The prerequisite of DIY is that you have the necessary knowledge and/or tools.

If you don't even have access to e.g. a launch monitor, than I do think seeking out a fitter or a local pro is the way to go

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I go standard to begin and try it on the range and course. If it’s looking spinny I loft down, but I tend to loft up if I am hitting it inconsistent.
 

Messing with the loft and changing the face angle does effect the shot shape, but i think the key is getting the launch and spin dialed in first. 

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First thing to remember is you cannot adjust a club to give consistent results from an INCONSISTENT SWING. It just ain't happening. However, you CAN adjust the club to give you the best results from your swing. For those who sole the driver when taking their grip who tend to loose the ball left or right on a regular basis, the Loft/Lie adjustments can sometimes help with ball flight issues. On the M6, lowering the loft opens the FA and increasing the loft closes the FA.

 

All that being said, for the OP, it seems you are having inconsistent contact issues which are rarely a result of incorrect clubhead adjustment. These are more commonly caused by total weight and/or swingweight adjustment needs. In this case, I would consult a fitter to see what different shaft weights and clubhead weighting has to offer. The proper club weighting and balance, for your swing, will promote better contact and get your driver performing much better.

 

BT

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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, Ri_Redneck said:

First thing to remember is you cannot adjust a club to give consistent results from an INCONSISTENT SWING. It just ain't happening. However, you CAN adjust the club to give you the best results from your swing. For those who sole the driver when taking their grip who tend to loose the ball left or right on a regular basis, the Loft/Lie adjustments can sometimes help with ball flight issues. On the M6, lowering the loft opens the FA and increasing the loft closes the FA.

 

All that being said, for the OP, it seems you are having inconsistent contact issues which are rarely a result of incorrect clubhead adjustment. These are more commonly caused by total weight and/or swingweight adjustment needs. In this case, I would consult a fitter to see what different shaft weights and clubhead weighting has to offer. The proper club weighting and balance, for your swing, will promote better contact and get your driver performing much better.

 

BT

 

That is definitely part of the issue. I've been playing a Cobra Fly-Z for the last couple years, with a higher total weight and shortened shaft (44.25"). This M6 is lighter and longer (45.75"), which gave me a nice bump in clubhead speed when I can find the sweetsopot. I was getting almost 10 mph in clubhead speed with the M6 (104mph with Fly-Z to 113mph with M6). That resulted in about a 20yd carry difference between my best swings with each club. My Fly-Z is only about 10 yards longer than my 4w on "good" shots (according to my Shotscope history). 

 

I'd like to eventually be able to adapt to the longer/lighter club and reap the benefits of the "free" speed/distance bump, but I know that's also going to add to my inconsistency until I adapt to the change.

Edited by Mych

"Of all the hazards, fear is the worst" - Sam Snead
WITB: Taylormade M6 ~ Ping Anser 4w ~ Ping G30 3h ~ Cobra King Forged One 4-P ~ Cobra King 50-V, 56-WL, Titleist Vokey 60 ~ Cleveland HB 11

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Your speed came with a loss of control. Maximum CHS will come from a club with the proper balance for your swing. You can make tweaks to the M6 that will improve you impact consistency while keeping the weight lighter than the Fly-Z.

 

I see this a lot with players who play heavy steel shafted irons and super-light drivers. They have to have two different swings and these swings WILL NOT compliment each other. You get used to one and the other suffers. You can go lighter, but you're currently too light, IMHO. The change you need could be quite small. As little as 4-6 grams in the right place can make a big difference. Don't get hung up on a specific swingweight.

 

BT

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I do the trail and error route on the range/course. I do know what effect the change will/should have on ball flight. But it amazes me how many don’t have a clue on what these changes do. For example, I play with a scratch player that was also a club pro that has no idea how to adjust his driver. He does know about lead tape though and has it all his irons and his 3 wood!

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2 minutes ago, brutus27 said:

Must be nice to have access to a trackman!

Rich!


I get that — was concerned my post would elicit that reaction.

 

There’s a golf teaching place nearby Seattle that rents out time on them for $25 / hr.
 

But I know that’s not everywhere — which is why I mentioned I realize not everyone has access.

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I always start with launch monitor testing to make sure I know numbers and flight on different settings. Then I take it to the range. Then I take it to the course. 

 

Launch monitor is different than range is different than playing. Ultimately, you need what works on the course. But to get there you have to have an idea of what launch and spin numbers are being produced. Once I've found what works on the course, I try to get back on the launch monitor to confirm launch and spin. 

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