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I will say that when I play vintage I usually move up a set of tees. Lots of times I will play my 54 Mac 2 wood- I usually carry the driver and 2 wood since I can hit the 2 wood off the deck--- I will admit when playing vintage I do not carry many woods. For some reason I love hitting the 2 iron off the deck adds to the fun not as graceful as it used to be but I can still hit a little waist high cut with it. The 2 wood I can hit a little chest high cut with it. Really when playing vintage I do not care about the score even though I have shot some good scores using the older stuff. 

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* Shaft Unknown

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Rusty 1997 Scottie Santa Fe-- Fluted Bulls Eye Shaft

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On 8/25/2021 at 2:58 PM, scomac2002 said:

So I'm about 3 rounds now into reacquainting myself with playing a bit of vintage golf after several years off.  After recovering from my back problems I have played strictly modern at a  poorer level than I used to play.  I had even convinced myself that I needed senior flex graphite in everything because my swing speed had deteriorated so much. 

 

My questions I have are arising from playing what could best be described as a 40 year old set of store line clubs.  We can call it neo-modern because the irons are cavity back and the driver is metal.  The irons are about a club to a club and a half week versus the TM Speedblades irons that I had been playing with previously compete with M flex graphite shafts.

 

How is it that I hit a 40 year old blade like cavity back higher and straighter than the current version of distance iron I was previously using?  Oh and these irons are shafted with Royal Precision FM 5.5 shafts, IOW 130g versus 55g and 5.5 versus 4.0 on the flex scale.

 

How is it that I can hit steel shafted laminate fairway woods higher  and every bit as far as a similar lofted graphite shafted metal wood?  I wouldn't say that dispersion was much different either!

 

How is it that a tiny little foam filled metal driver with a steel shaft can deliver a tee shot further than the highly engineered, high MOI, low spin driver of today in the hands of a guy who probably can't hit 85 mph on Trackman (or similar)?

 

How is it that these low bounce, sharp leading edge wedges of yesteryear are so much easier to get clean contact with than today's high bounce, custom grind, enhanced groove wedges of today?

 

I've read comments on here from various posters who play strictly vintage clubs claim that they can't hit the modern stuff period!  I'm beginning to understand what they're talking about.  These irons are about a club shorter than the moderns and they're also about 5° flatter too.  They have a ton of offset, but they fly true to target without me having to make any compensations.  Modern fitting parameters would suggest that they are completely unsuitable, but the proof on the course says otherwise.  Enquiring minds want to know?

 

Some players hit the sweetspot more consistently with smaller clubs, which will overcome any technological advantages of GI clubs not hit near the sweetspot consistently.

 

Also, older irons have higher lofts and will spin the ball more while the newer GI irons are only designed to hit the ball farther, like a driver, and not stop the ball on the green.

 

I play 90's irons and fairway woods for the same reason and hit them better than anything I have ever tried. My fairway woods are about the size of a modern hybrid but are easy to hit.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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The low spin design of a lot of the newer offerings are proving to be a real problem for a guy like me who doesn't put a lot of spin on the ball.  This is particularly problematic with the driver and I've now discovered also an issue with distance irons with spring face technology.

 

The more that I've played my various vintage clubs I'm starting to realize that I don't swing as aggressively.  The extra weight creates inertia which kinda helps the club swing itself.  I'm pretty sure that this has a lot to do with far better results chipping and pitching the ball around the greens.

 

The woods are a challenge due to the small sweet spot and the amount that they curve when hit off-centre, but I'm working on that.

 

As far as scoring is concerned, the range of results has been the same as with modern just perhaps a stroke or two more on average which I think I can recover through course management as I learn slightly different ways of playing problem holes.

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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18 minutes ago, scomac2002 said:

The low spin design of a lot of the newer offerings are proving to be a real problem for a guy like me who doesn't put a lot of spin on the ball.  This is particularly problematic with the driver and I've now discovered also an issue with distance irons with spring face technology.

 

The more that I've played my various vintage clubs I'm starting to realize that I don't swing as aggressively.  The extra weight creates inertia which kinda helps the club swing itself.  I'm pretty sure that this has a lot to do with far better results chipping and pitching the ball around the greens.

 

The woods are a challenge due to the small sweet spot and the amount that they curve when hit off-centre, but I'm working on that.

 

As far as scoring is concerned, the range of results has been the same as with modern just perhaps a stroke or two more on average which I think I can recover through course management as I learn slightly different ways of playing problem holes.

 

 

I would try a 7 wood. The forum convinced me to try it and it has been a great addition. You can probably find a 7 wood persimmon on ebay but failing that the 90's era Big Bertha Warbird fairway woods that I use are cheap and plentiful, I bought my 7 wood for $15 and switched the shaft out. If the head is scuffed just strip it and shine it with a standard plastic brillo pad, it will look great.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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1 hour ago, chipa said:

 

Some players hit the sweetspot more consistently with smaller clubs, which will overcome any technological advantages of GI clubs not hit near the sweetspot consistently.

 

Also, older irons have higher lofts and will spin the ball more while the newer GI irons are only designed to hit the ball farther, like a driver, and not stop the ball on the green.

 

I play 90's irons and fairway woods for the same reason and hit them better than anything I have ever tried. My fairway woods are about the size of a modern hybrid but are easy to hit.

 The modern golf ball is generally too hard to get good spin

  I have had good luck with Wilson duo soft, Callaway Solaire ( marketed for women ) and lady Srixon

  Try and hit a current range ball with vintage clubs and they will hardly  get in the air

   Find a set of Wilson Louise Suggs irons- I think they are the easiest vintage to hit now

   A friend ( lady ) has a set and they are amazing

  If I could find a set in good shape I would extend the shafts one inch and put on mid size tour wrap grips

 

Hey Trevino played the wedges back in the day - I wore out a Louise Sand Wedge-man, could that thing stop a ball

 

These are the ones - but I would still need to extend and regrip, so price is kinda high

 

They may work for a short guy , around 5' 7" or so but not for a tall guy like me

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144140185180?hash=item218f6cae5c:g:HOMAAOSw8rBg~G5G

Edited by miamistomp
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55 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

 

I would try a 7 wood. The forum convinced me to try it and it has been a great addition. You can probably find a 7 wood persimmon on ebay but failing that the 90's era Big Bertha Warbird fairway woods that I use are cheap and plentiful, I bought my 7 wood for $15 and switched the shaft out. If the head is scuffed just strip it and shine it with a standard plastic brillo pad, it will look great.

 

I have several.  I must admit that my Heavenwood hasn't made it out to the course this year yet.  I have the full set of driver, 4W & 7W in the Callaway War birds from the mid 90's.  Probably one of the better drivers I have ever hit, but my one outing with it this year was pretty disappointing.  

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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1 hour ago, scomac2002 said:

 

I have several.  I must admit that my Heavenwood hasn't made it out to the course this year yet.  I have the full set of driver, 4W & 7W in the Callaway War birds from the mid 90's.  Probably one of the better drivers I have ever hit, but my one outing with it this year was pretty disappointing.  

 Try this one if you dare  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124796350729?hash=item1d0e713109:g:l50AAOSwyVdg35qy

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If I ever had enough money to burn I would love to get a set of Macgregor Nickluas Muirfields(brushed finish) and a persimmon driver and 4 wood and play them every so often to hone my swing and have some fun.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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1 hour ago, miamistomp said:

 

Oh baby!  That`s the ticket; the old Lee Trevino special! 🏌️‍♂️

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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Ping G30 4h/5h

Ping G 6-UW

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 56° SW

Cleveland CBX Fullface 60° LW

Odyssey WRX V-Line Versa                          

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4 hours ago, chipa said:

 

 

I would try a 7 wood. The forum convinced me to try it and it has been a great addition. You can probably find a 7 wood persimmon on ebay but failing that the 90's era Big Bertha Warbird fairway woods that I use are cheap and plentiful, I bought my 7 wood for $15 and switched the shaft out. If the head is scuffed just strip it and shine it with a standard plastic brillo pad, it will look great.

 

A persimmon 5 wood at +/- 22* loft is akin to a contemporary 7 wood.  Consider the head sizes relativity similar to a corresponding hybrid.  Chasing down actual persimmon fairway lofts is an exercise.  Ping E2's are a known commodity:  3w = 16.5, 4w = 19, 5w = 22, 6w (rare) = 25, 7w = 29.  My somewhat modernist 9 wood is 24*.  

Edited by Fellaheen51
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Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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12 hours ago, chipa said:

 

Some players hit the sweetspot more consistently with smaller clubs, which will overcome any technological advantages of GI clubs not hit near the sweetspot consistently.

 

Also, older irons have higher lofts and will spin the ball more while the newer GI irons are only designed to hit the ball farther, like a driver, and not stop the ball on the green.

 

I play 90's irons and fairway woods for the same reason and hit them better than anything I have ever tried. My fairway woods are about the size of a modern hybrid but are easy to hit.

Yep you figured me out with the first line--- I tell people that and they do not believe me--- Lots of folks think I am nuts because I practice hitting one of my persimmon drivers and also practice putting with a Ironmaster or Bulls Eye putter. If one can hit the sweet spot or near it on any of the 3  then a Toyota on a stick new driver and a Anser style putter are a no brainer------ Gotta give you your props--- You did something not many have done sorta figgured me out

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* Shaft Unknown

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Rusty 1997 Scottie Santa Fe-- Fluted Bulls Eye Shaft

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7 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

A persimmon 5 wood at +/- 22* loft is akin to a contemporary 7 wood.

 

Actually, I sorta figure that the wooden 5W is pretty much the equivalent of the current 4 hybrid for most folks for distance and flight.

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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Adams Tight Lies 2.0 3W/7W

Ping G30 4h/5h

Ping G 6-UW

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 56° SW

Cleveland CBX Fullface 60° LW

Odyssey WRX V-Line Versa                          

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Fun thread 

 

I’m in the ‘hit thin soled irons better” camp as well

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Ping G430 10k 10.5* Diamana ZF 60x

Cally AI Smoke TD 3w 17* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Fuji TourSpec 8.2s

Ping i210 & s55 6 - PW Steelfiber 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

Scotty GoLo
 

 

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2 hours ago, scomac2002 said:

 

Actually, I sorta figure that the wooden 5W is pretty much the equivalent of the current 4 hybrid for most folks for distance and flight.

 

I've two wooden five woods that I like to play (OK, this is GolfWRX; obviously I have more than two, but these are the two I like to play...).

 

One is a graphite-shafted Mizuno. I'd say it's equivalent in the way it plays to my "somewhat modernist" 7 wood, which is 21*.

 

The other is a steel-shafted Powerbilt. Lovely little club, with a small compact head. Now this one is definitely more like a 4-hybrid in ball flight. Not sure about distance. I've hit a couple of surprising long shots with it recently. It's got some hidden power built in there.

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26 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

The other is a steel-shafted Powerbilt. Lovely little club, with a small compact head. Now this one is definitely more like a 4-hybrid in ball flight. Not sure about distance. I've hit a couple of surprising long shots with it recently. It's got some hidden power built in there.

 

I have one of those too, a Power Bilt Citation 5W with a True Temper Dynamic shaft.  I agree; it`s a lovely little hammer of a club!

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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Ping G30 4h/5h

Ping G 6-UW

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 56° SW

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I don't own any modern drivers so I can't really comment on the comparisons. 

 

But this month I got a 2w Tommy Armour and it has been a game changer for me.  Last month I played a round with some members of the Wisconsin Hickory golfers and one of them used a Wilson Staff 4300 2w off the tee and it really inspired me to get one.

 

What I'm finding is I'm putting it in the fairway much more and then relying more on my mid irons.  I don't really hit the vintage drivers much further than the 2w and the miss hits aren't as punishing.  I spent a lot of time this year on my second shot trying to make up for a mis-struck tee with the driver.

 

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Instagram: cold_war_era_golfer 

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58 minutes ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

But this month I got a 2w Tommy Armour and it has been a game changer for me.  Last month I played a round with some members of the Wisconsin Hickory golfers and one of them used a Wilson Staff 4300 2w off the tee and it really inspired me to get one.

 

I have  Power Bilt Citation 2W in the basement somewhere.  Your post has inspired me to find it and put it in play for my next vintage round. 👍

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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Ping G30 4h/5h

Ping G 6-UW

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 56° SW

Cleveland CBX Fullface 60° LW

Odyssey WRX V-Line Versa                          

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10 hours ago, scomac2002 said:

 

I have  Power Bilt Citation 2W in the basement somewhere.  Your post has inspired me to find it and put it in play for my next vintage round. 👍

Our esteemed WRXer D Copp turned me on into hitting a 2 wood--- I have a 54 Mac that I hit pretty decent off a tee or even off the deck. Off the deck it hits ( for me) just as good and far as my somewhat modern V-Steel 3 wood. I played it yesterday along with my beloved 57 MT1 Velocitized driver. 

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* Shaft Unknown

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Rusty 1997 Scottie Santa Fe-- Fluted Bulls Eye Shaft

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On 9/13/2021 at 2:14 PM, cold_war_era_golfer said:

I don't own any modern drivers so I can't really comment on the comparisons. 

 

But this month I got a 2w Tommy Armour and it has been a game changer for me.  Last month I played a round with some members of the Wisconsin Hickory golfers and one of them used a Wilson Staff 4300 2w off the tee and it really inspired me to get one.

 

What I'm finding is I'm putting it in the fairway much more and then relying more on my mid irons.  I don't really hit the vintage drivers much further than the 2w and the miss hits aren't as punishing.  I spent a lot of time this year on my second shot trying to make up for a mis-struck tee with the driver.

 

I love the persimmon 2 woods. With my relatively flat and slow swing, the 2 wood really gives me better distance and dispersion control than the typical driver. My favorite is my AT2W Tommy Armour MacGregor. Picked it up for $10 at a garage sale while in law school (1974 ugh). Apparently the person who bought the Driver, 3w and 4w for $30 didn't feel the need for the 2w. Yep, I do keep clubs for a long time!

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Just an older guy with 7 or 8 clubs and a MacKenzie Sunday Walker bag

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4 hours ago, rwc356 said:

I love the persimmon 2 woods. With my relatively flat and slow swing, the 2 wood really gives me better distance and dispersion control than the typical driver. My favorite is my AT2W Tommy Armour MacGregor. Picked it up for $10 at a garage sale while in law school (1974 ugh). Apparently the person who bought the Driver, 3w and 4w for $30 didn't feel the need for the 2w. Yep, I do keep clubs for a long time!

This is a good reminder to me of the merits of a 2W.  I can recall hitting mine 220 and I have hit it off the deck, but it has been a while.  I'm fairly flat as well, especially with a wood.  I don't generate a lot of spin or a lot of height.  Call it a swing flaw, but I seem to be able to play with it more effectively using older clubs that inherently produce more spin.

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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1 hour ago, BIG STU said:

A few years back at my old course ( now closed and destroyed forever) I was on the range hitting my persimmons. I was hitting a little MT Custom 5 wood that my old man had ordered years ago. That is one tiny hooked faced 5 wood in fact I named it Hooky. Anyhow this kid was beside me maybe 14 or so he asked me in all sincerely and respect "when did they start making hybrids out of wood?" I had to explain and to be truthful that 5 wood was the same size as his modern Cally hybrid

 

A couple of months ago, I played a persimmon round with some Chinese folk, one of whom only took up the game last year. They were amazed to see wooden woods. One actually said, "so that's why they're called 'woods'!" 

 

They couldn't believe that people actually played with them. One of them took photos of my driver for his Instagram account🤣

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On 9/11/2021 at 7:58 PM, miamistomp said:

 The big problem is the new balls don't spin and are harder than balata

Amen brother.

 

I was "borrowing" some Lady Precepts from my wife's stash every time I went to play a vintage round until she caught me red-handed. image.jpeg.676ab4971b4a826f9bf504767f0be7e4.jpeg

 

I know Monte Scheinblum took a trip to Conyers, GA to visit with Bridgestone about making a "spinnier" ball but seems like it fell on deaf ears.

Edited by nitram
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The answer to better golf is work your butt off and learn how to hit it better, farther, and make more putts.

 

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With the recent tweak to the covers, the Bridgestone B RXS would probably work well.  

 

Personally, I use the Duo Professional.  It doesn't spin like balata, but nothing does.  

 

If you want the spin, the 3 piece Kirkland Signature ball would be the one, maybe the softer of the Mizuno RB balls...

 

Edited by NRJyzr
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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM BRNR Mini 11.5* at 9.5*, 43.5", NV75X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80X, 43.25"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Mizuno TPM-2 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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42 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

Personally, I use the Duo Professional.  It doesn't spin like balata, but nothing does.

 

I'm not getting along with the Duo.  I bought 2 dozen Duo Optix back in the winter on a Black Friday deal and I'm not loving these in the slightest.  They just don't work for my swing at all.  I just went to the local golf big box and grabbed a 3 dozen pack of Noodle Long and Soft as I get along with these quite a bit better.  More spin and more carry.  

 

I really like the neon balls for visibility, but the low compression balls are really getting to be a problem for some reason

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My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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13 hours ago, scomac2002 said:

 

I'm not getting along with the Duo.  I bought 2 dozen Duo Optix back in the winter on a Black Friday deal and I'm not loving these in the slightest.  They just don't work for my swing at all.  I just went to the local golf big box and grabbed a 3 dozen pack of Noodle Long and Soft as I get along with these quite a bit better.  More spin and more carry.  

 

I really like the neon balls for visibility, but the low compression balls are really getting to be a problem for some reason

 

Duo Optix are a different animal than the Duo Professional.  The Duo Pro is a 3 piece urethane covered ball with a 60 compression core (as Wilson measures it).  The Duo Optix is a 2 piece ball, around a 29 comp core, but it has a surlyn cover.

 

Don't blame you for not liking them.  I've hit one, didn't care for it; no spin for me either.

 

The 50 Elite is a decent ball, also.  Softer surlyn cover than Duo Optix, and at 50 comp (😯) it's slightly softer than the Duo Pro.  They have the old Wilson pan dimples that were on the Px3 ball from quite a few years ago.  I'd take the 50 Elite before the two piece Duo balls.  But the Duo Pro reigns for me.

 

Nice bonus: Duo Professional is crazy good in side winds.

 

Edited by NRJyzr
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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM BRNR Mini 11.5* at 9.5*, 43.5", NV75X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80X, 43.25"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Mizuno TPM-2 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Hey @stickfish I see you gave me a like--- The FCs I am talking about and playing are the ones you so generously sent me a couple of years back. I had played them some pre accident and loved them. Finally got to the point my back was healed structually and according to the Docs I could do no damage. I had been rehabbing hard. So decided to play my first vintage round in 15 months Monday. I have been hitting those so well this week I am going to play them in the Friday afternoon thing we do and in the shootout tomorrow. 

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 4 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* Shaft Unknown

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Rusty 1997 Scottie Santa Fe-- Fluted Bulls Eye Shaft

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